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Seedlings showing nutrient burn part 2

My pants have gotten a bit bigger and still showing some browning on the leaf's. I did do a small flush as the fertilizer that burned them was a very low dose.
I have corrected my ph problems as suggested. Keeping the ph at 6.3 w straight H20. Is that good?
I water only after the soil has dried.
Here is my soil,
3L Pro Mix
3L Perlite
2L Earth worm castings
1L Vermiculite https://www.icmag.com/ihttps://www.icmag.com/ic/attachment.php?attachmentid=528074&stchttps://www.icmag.com/ic/attachment.php?https://www.icmag.com/ihttps://www.icmag.com/ic/attachment.php?attachmentid=528077&stc=1&d=1586480369c/attachment.php?attachmentid=528076&stc=1&d=1586480369attachmentid=528075&stc=1&d=1586480369=1&d=1586480369c/attachment.php?attachmentid=528073&stc=1&d=1586480369
1cup green sand
2cups soil conditioner
1/2cup garden lime
1/2cup bone meal
1/4cup kelp meal
What do you think about the mix? Good?
And here are some pics.
Any help is GREATLY appreciated.
 

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TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
My pants have gotten a bit bigger and still showing some browning on the leaf's. I did do a small flush as the fertilizer that burned them was a very low dose.
I have corrected my ph problems as suggested. Keeping the ph at 6.3 w straight H20. Is that good?
I water only after the soil has dried.
Here is my soil,
3L Pro Mix
3L Perlite
2L Earth worm castings
1L Vermiculite https://www.icmag.com/ihttps://www....nt.php?attachmentid=528073&stc=1&d=1586480369
1cup green sand
2cups soil conditioner
1/2cup garden lime
1/2cup bone meal
1/4cup kelp meal
What do you think about the mix? Good?
And here are some pics.
Any help is GREATLY appreciated.

The first and only thing I would do is give them a long slow flush with 0.2 EC nutrient solution and then give them nothing more than 0.4 EC of a high P/K nutrient solution and 0.1 EC of epsom salt for its's magnesium. Only repeat once or twice. The soil should do the rest until transplanting.

P will stimulate root growth, K stimulates stem and branch growth and Mg keeps the leaves green and phototropic.

When you're using a heavily fertilized soil, you should still use liquid nutrients, but in a very light concentration. When there is a nutrient deficiency, you should use both liquid (fast) and solid (slow) amendments. The first takes immediate care of the deficiency, and the second keeps it from coming back.

Personally I like the water to rise up through the pots, which is what happens in nature when plants are watered from the water table and the evaporation of water in the soil. One benefit is that the nutrients don't flush out, which again means you can use much less fertilizer, which improves the taste of the final product.

Higher P and K also make the soil milder because it lowers Nitrogen in the soil. I think people use too much nitrogen. Outdoors, plants get most of their nitrogen from the air as NO3. There is little nitrogen in topsoil, and none in the subsoil. Some plants can take up so much nitrogen from the air that they store it in their roots, like legumes. But I would say that in nature, nitrogen is most available to plants in the air as NO3, like carbon through CO2.
 

El Timbo

Well-known member
I haven't used pro mix but I had a quick look at it - next time try just using it on its own to start your seeds, nothing added except maybe the perlite if it doesn't already have it..
 
Tanzanian, thank you for the help. I will do as you suggest..I have some cal mag and also some maxibloom. Maybe I'll go get P/K that has no nitrogen at all..
It's funny I'm also showing slight tip browning like the others and it's on a plant I never fertilized. Maybe the soil mix is hot like you said.

Timbo, yea this is my first time mixing such ingredients. I do have a couple going in just Pro Mix and worm castings. They look very healthy.

Thanks guys!
 

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