Seeded plant - buds look sickly is that normal

[EastCoastGambit]

I imagine there could be a combination of things going on. This is my 1st time pollinating/crossing a plant. I'll post a photo soon.

Basically I pollinated maybe half of the plant. On the buds producing the seeds (8 weeks total, pollinated around week 3) the sugar leaves are burnt up on the tips and badly curling, dying. I think some is environmental and nute issues but in general is it normal for buds producing seeds to show these signs of stress? I assume since growing the seeds is taking the plants energy it could be common.

I don't really care about the bud but at first it kind of looked like early bud rot or something. The non pollinated buds look better in comparison so that kind of gives me clues as to what is going on.

 

[Mithridate]

I wouldn't say normal but yes, seeded plants will need to be fed at higher ppm and a more well rounded diet if you're focused on producing seeds..

 

[goingrey]

Also seeded buds will mature and die earlier than seedless ones.

5 weeks from pollination the seeds may already be ready You could check and if they are then just harvest the seeded buds if you are worried about them molding.

 

[EastCoastGambit]

Yeah they look ready, some starting to bust the calyx. I pulled one off and unpeeled it big and brown.

I was going to give them another few days.

 

[Growenhaft]

the nuts should be ready by then.

For your next seed production, consider adding 10% more potassium and phosphorus to your diet just 1 week after pollination. to do this, you must also increase magnesium... otherwise this could be ruled out by the high potassium or it is less readily available. the high potassium is needed to produce the strongest possible turgor.. in this context, make sure that there is sufficient boron in your nutrient solution... boron is also essential for a strong turgor. and this is needed to press enough plant sap into the large number of growing nuts.

the sap pressure of the plant determines how many seeds can mature completely... the higher the more... plants with sagging leaves will only produce few high-quality seeds.

 

[EastCoastGambit]

the nuts should be ready by then.

For your next seed production, consider adding 10% more potassium and phosphorus to your diet just 1 week after pollination. to do this, you must also increase magnesium... otherwise this could be ruled out by the high potassium or it is less readily available. the high potassium is needed to produce the strongest possible turgor.. in this context, make sure that there is sufficient boron in your nutrient solution... boron is also essential for a strong turgor. and this is needed to press enough plant sap into the large number of growing nuts.

the sap pressure of the plant determines how many seeds can mature completely... the higher the more... plants with sagging leaves will only produce few high-quality seeds.

Thanks for the tips. Just dipping my toes into the pollinating realm, lots to learn.

 

[dramamine]

the nuts should be ready by then.

For your next seed production, consider adding 10% more potassium and phosphorus to your diet just 1 week after pollination. to do this, you must also increase magnesium... otherwise this could be ruled out by the high potassium or it is less readily available. the high potassium is needed to produce the strongest possible turgor.. in this context, make sure that there is sufficient boron in your nutrient solution... boron is also essential for a strong turgor. and this is needed to press enough plant sap into the large number of growing nuts.

the sap pressure of the plant determines how many seeds can mature completely... the higher the more... plants with sagging leaves will only produce few high-quality seeds.

Great post.

 

[EastCoastGambit]

Here are some photos.

 

[EastCoastGambit]

This is same plant but the unpollinated parts.

 

[EastCoastGambit]

Here's a seed I plucked. Looks almost done to me.

 

[Growenhaft]

the seeds, as expected, look well matured and well developed after this period.
you will have fun with this my friend.

in the pictures with the pregnant plant... i assume some older leaves that were yellow from the outside inwards have already fallen off or been removed? because these go off me to be able to clearly recognize a potassium deficiency. the leaf edges and even better the curled yellow-brown leaf tips clearly speak for it.

in the pictures of the unfertilized shoots, a phosphorus deficiency can be easily understood by the red coloring of the spaces between the leaf veins...

 

[EastCoastGambit]

Yes probably all true. This plant was under loved. Kind of scaled back on feedings and it's a little to big for its pot on top of that.

Still the buds look tasty and I'll get some beans which was the primary goal, and learn something by doing it. So all and all success.

The cross is Romulan male X Skywalker OG female. Looking forward to seeing what the seeds produce with a better cared for grow.


Thanks again for the input.

 

[Creeperpark]

Hey, you did good and that plant seed will give you a few more chances to work out your feeding plan. Those buds look pretty Stoney and will work just fine. Thanks for posting your work.

 

[TanzanianMagic]

This is same plant but the unpollinated parts.

View attachment 18779007 View attachment 18779008

That looks like potassium deficiency/lockout.

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The damage to the edge of the leaf is right, the stunted leaf is right, the only thing that doesn't seem right about it is that the damage is high at the top of the plant.

Potassium deficiency can happen because:

- The plant uses potassium for seed production.
- The plant uses potassium in late flowering to thicken the stems when the buds are getting heavier.
- Potassium is sometimes in higher demand indoors.

Calcium deficiency/lockout it another possibility. The following is the weirdest cal def I've seen, however it is consistent with a non-mobile nutrient deficiency, and the leaves have gone completely dark red. And the upper leaves/sugar leaves are affected too.

So there is also a third possibility: overfertilization.

So what were they fed, and what is the runoff PPM and pH?

 

[EastCoastGambit]

I suspect the worse looking parts might be a little wind burn as I have an oscillating fan, small, on low on the floor of the tent.

As for measurements, I have to admit this was a very lazy grow. I fed them light with advanced nutrients bloom, and some big swell. PH'ed between 6.3 - 6.7. I didn't check the runoff but grow in soil. I probably gave a little Cal Mag and Micro here and there as well. Probably a little silicon in veg but would stop that 1 week into flower.

 

[Growenhaft]

the only thing that doesn't seem right about it is that the damage is high at the top of the plant.

I think we only see one picture... on which the focus was to show us the tips of the dying sugar leaves.
I'm pretty sure if we look at the plant as a whole there will be several signs from the middle and bottom that potassium is to blame.

no, this is not windburn... it is very clearly visible that these problems are in the nutrient area... and that the peaks indicate a deficiency situation and not an excess.

 

[Growenhaft]

small, on low on the floor of the tent.

is the pot in the wind? if this is the case, depending on the type of pot, you will worsen your nutrient absorption capacity. wind causes evaporation... the by-product of evaporation is always massive local cold to the actual environment. depending on the type of pot you have different drainage openings... if the wind has free access there, it will cool down your medium a lot in these places... stupidly, these are also preferably the places where root tips automatically grow due to the higher oxygen content... and because of the cold temperatures in the medium can transport fewer nutrients.

you should change this first if that is the case... because this small change can easily replace an increase in the fertilizer dosage. girls hate cold feet... they're all the same

make sure that the conditions in the root area are as constant as possible... the fluctuation should neither break out sharply upwards during the light phase nor migrate downwards in the dark phase... a small fluctuation between light and dark is to be accepted and natural.