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sealing room, what A/C ?

Red Bear

Active member
so i need a litle help, I have always just pulled alot of air through my grow room but in my new room it gets too cold outside.
so i wanna seal it, please help with recomendations on A/C, Co2 controllers and tips and tricks for sealed room.

room: 11 FT. X 11 FT. X 8 FT., 968 cubic FT.
2 banks of 3, 8" ducted radiant air cooled hoods with 8" canfan H.O. fans on each bank of 3.
6 air cooled 1000watt lights total.

i have an active air commercial 60 pint dehuey,
what A/C specifically would anyone recommend? I cant do a mini split, because i cant have anything outside.

I have 12 amps 120volt available to power the A/C and I would like to cut a hole in the grow room wall to mount a window mount version maybe 24000 btu up high with the rear pouring heat into my garage. the flower room is built into the garage. budget up to a grand for A/C

also I need Co2 recommendations, as far as a fuzzy logic controller, i am thinking the autopilot digital Co2 fuzzy logic controller at about $500, opinions? alternatives?

mostly looking for an A/C recommendation i can order online from loews or home De Pot... thinking window version.
how many btu needed for 6kw?

thanks!
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
Rule of Thumb-5000btu/1000w. 6 x5000 =30,000 btu. 12 amp, 120v won't come close to what you need. Check out thru the wall units that exhaust out, but the unit is entirely indoors. Good luck. -granger
 
Still air cooling lights? I understand that's hard to seal up. I run 9k open hood off of a 24k window unit in the winter so 5k per is worst case summer conditions. Most dual hose units leak so your co2 could get expensive if your not burning ng. The mechanical in a sealed room is a real balancing act. My window banger exhausts into a 2000 sq ft space. The heat us easily absorbed in the winter but in the summer, I have to ventilate the space or it become unbearable.
 

Red Bear

Active member
Budley, yes I figure 5000 btu is for open bulb.
I am air cooling lights with lots of cfm AND moving air through the room with push and pull on 8" fans seperately (I have 4 centrifugal fans,) I want to drop the push and pull, and keep the sealed hoods and run air conditioning.
I can't run mini sit because of the outdoor compressor.
I can run a 12 amp window 24k BTU A/C on 120 volt with active condensate drain (floor drain) I feel this will work as the heat can pump into garage up stairs to open door and heat 2500 Sq ft. Home.
Funny Ian having problems with intake air in winter being too cold and fluctuating, logical solution is A/C in winter in colorado... lol.

Iam new to sealed rooms I have a 60 pint dehuey and I know I need 1000 ppm of Co2 but other than that I feel naked, please help me keep my room at stable Temps and increase yields I hope I'm my 6kw dtw sealed .
Thanks!
 

DemonTrich

Active member
Veteran
Don't get how a dual hose portable can suck out co2 in the room. A dual hose is an intake and exhaust hose that cools the compreasor. No room air gets effected.....Unless your dual hose as leak or you have a leak.
 

DemonTrich

Active member
Veteran
Why not buffer incoming air with warm house air?

Not quite sure I understand you. The intake side og my dual hose will be laying on the ground outside my room. Exhaust obviously out the window. Units in the room and is sealed unlike a single hose ac unit
 

Red Bear

Active member
DemonTrich, i dont see how dual hose A/C leaks Co2 either...

Mikell, because of 30 degree F temp swings, i have tried. one night its 30 F next its -7 F.
need stability. also sealed has advantage of not sucking in neighbors grow pests, lots of growers here.
and getting 1 # per 1 kw now and seeing friends get 2 per 1 kw with Co2...
 

Picarus

Member
co2 alone will not double your yield. Not to tell you not to change your setup but if the root of the problem is yield look elsewhere.
 

Mikell

Dipshit Know-Nothing
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Demon, I wasen't talking about a dual hose, hence the confusion ;)

There are ways to automate damper function through a thermostat, solenoid, etc but truth to be told sealed is the preferable way to go to my way of thinking. I was just thinking out right cost.

I agree with Picarus, CO2 isn't going to give you magic yield. It's hard to compare one grow room and grower with another unless you're running the same clones.

And bear in mind, if your lower yield is the result of a deficiency within your grow room or nutrient regime/soil mix or what have you, CO2 will likely make this problem worse.



Search for spurrs thread on CO2 supplementation if you're looking for solid information on the subject.
 
Budley, yes I figure 5000 btu is for open bulb.
I am air cooling lights with lots of cfm AND moving air through the room with push and pull on 8" fans seperately (I have 4 centrifugal fans,) I want to drop the push and pull, and keep the sealed hoods and run air conditioning.
I can't run mini sit because of the outdoor compressor.
I can run a 12 amp window 24k BTU A/C on 120 volt with active condensate drain (floor drain) I feel this will work as the heat can pump into garage up stairs to open door and heat 2500 Sq ft. Home.
Funny Ian having problems with intake air in winter being too cold and fluctuating, logical solution is A/C in winter in colorado... lol.

Iam new to sealed rooms I have a 60 pint dehuey and I know I need 1000 ppm of Co2 but other than that I feel naked, please help me keep my room at stable Temps and increase yields I hope I'm my 6kw dtw sealed .
Thanks!
You are going to have to up that 12a 120v to a 15a 220v to run 2 tons of ac.
 
Don't get how a dual hose portable can suck out co2 in the room. A dual hose is an intake and exhaust hose that cools the compreasor. No room air gets effected.....Unless your dual hose as leak or you have a leak.

They are just not that well sealed. No big if you have a ng burner but if your on the bottle the co2 loss sucks. Can't imagine that it's a difficult fix.
 

DemonTrich

Active member
Veteran
you speak from personal experience and have facts to back this up, or is this just a blanket statement? I didn't just go from a 500.00 single hose unit to a 450.00 dual hose unit for shits and giggles. or at least I better not have. from my 4 months of research on dual hose, in my findings a dual hose is a sealed unit and NO room car can be sucked into the a/c unit. its a sealed compressor, which is why it has a intake and exhaust hose to cool the compressor. it does not use room air to cool the compressor, therefore no possibility of the unit sucking room air. my girls will be bottle fed, no burner here.
 
I can't speak for your unit itself, and I have not used one myself. I have had discussions with many people who where trying to figure out why their bottle was only lasting 2 days in a small room. Most often leaking lights, then 2 hose AC. You will know if it has small leaks, can't imagine it would be a difficult fix. I doubt the unit is 100% sealed which isn't an issue for it's intended purpose.
 

DemonTrich

Active member
Veteran
one sure tell sign would be negative pressure in your room if the a/c was sucking out room air in a sealed room. obviously this would take all night of not opening the door, and the neg pressure might be minimal, but one should be able to tell (by seeing or feeling) the pressure change upon opening the door.

we shall see in 4 more days or so after I harvest and rebuild my room.
 

DemonTrich

Active member
Veteran
I would have to spay this in my room, which im not a big fan of doing. my girls don't need to be smelling like hoochies. lol
 

Red Bear

Active member
my main reasons for sealing the room are to keep temperature consistant, lower humidity in the rest of my house in winter, not care what the outside temp is...

i am not thinking Co2 will double my yield, i just know its necessary in a sealed room and am not sure what ppms when = fuzzy logic controller. funny though i have a friend with same hoods bulbs clones AND Co2 and he does get nearly double what i do, in a tent with coco...

anyway, sounds like i dont have enough available amps...
 

Picarus

Member
if you have very cold temps outside, you could hook up a passive intake with a damper and set a fan to a thermostat switch up to pull in when heat hits "x" temp and off @ "y" temp. you will have to take the time to figure it out but that seems like a good solution.
 

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