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Sealing a door for a sealed room.

MtnLivin

Member
Hey guys! So I'll be starting construction on a couple rooms in the next few days. The rooms I'm building will be completely sealed. I'm
wondering if there's anything more I should be doing to seal up the door. I'm using 36"x80" Prehung doors from Home Depot. Any suggestions are much appreciated!
 

wildgrow

, The Ghost of
Veteran
Exterior or interior? Exterior you might only have to add a rubber sweep to the bottom. A thin rubber gasket should take care of any gaps if the door isn't tight to the frame.

Something Ive wanted to try - make your own gasket with silicon caulk. Wrap door edges with plastic wrap, lay silicon bead around frame, shut door and wait 24 hours. Then remove the plastic wrap. Voila! custom door seal.

If that would work. I think it would.
 

Perpetual Nooch

Active member
Get that weather stripping designed for exterior doors. Usually got rubber mounted to a metal strip via spring action. So when you close the door it seals itself around. Then add a bottom rubber sweep like the guy above said.
 

queequeg152

Active member
Veteran
just get an exterior prehung door with the correct swing direction.

yea it will be drilled for a deadbolt, but so what. by the time you add a threshold, bulb gasket and door sweep and adjust evverytihng you will wonder why the fuck didnt you just get a cheap 300 dollar exterior steel door.
 
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Just put this 30x80 in. Interior pre hung. I shoved a bunch of rolled up foam beads in all the openings before trimming it out. Putting in transition, sweep, and weather stripping tomorrow.

I wanna test the drag on the exhaust before I cut (filtered) holes in the door for passive intake. I'm interested in this cuz I may seal it up and add gas later.

LH


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Exterior door for the win, if you're buying new. Otherwise, add some weather stripping/ gasket material.
For light leaking, add a flap of luan (thin plywood), with some loose panda film stapled onto it, all around the edge of the door. Let it overlap the door and the trim/ jamb by 2 inches or so.
 

Shmavis

Being-in-the-world
just get an exterior prehung door with the correct swing direction.

yea it will be drilled for a deadbolt, but so what. by the time you add a threshold, bulb gasket and door sweep and adjust evverytihng you will wonder why the fuck didnt you just get a cheap 300 dollar exterior steel door.

:yeahthats:

I'm piling on. The exterior door is the way. You can get one for much less than $300. And you can get one without a deadbolt. Bought one without the deadbolt for the shed about three years ago. Paid something like $170. I've seen them for $120.

Best of luck!
 

queequeg152

Active member
Veteran
fwiw, the "metal doors" im thinking of are not the same sort of metal doors you see on commercial structures. the ones im thinking of are literally just a honeycomb filled with foam with about 3" of hardwood or laminated softwood along the hinges to hold the screws.

there is also a strip of wood along the catch etc... they are not strong doors. the metal is literally just a piece of 18 gauge or so metal wrapped over this foam and honeycomb material.

if you want a security door you need a real steel door that is somethign like 14 gauge sheet steel on both sides with a steel catch and steel along the hinges with machine screws holding the hinges.

then you pump grout into the hollow steel door jambs. its pretty strong... not like swat team deterrant strong or what ever, but way way way stronger than the doors i reccomended above.

just wanted to clarify that...
 
I'm curious MtnLiving... how do you plan to add co2? Burner or tank?

I'm just a little bummed that I went with an interior door now, but since I'm still planning to vent... not so much.

LH
 

Mikell

Dipshit Know-Nothing
ICMag Donor
Veteran
A doors a door to the grow room. Unless you're worried about boots or warping, it's just as easy to seal one than the other (more or less). Gasketed bottom plates and aftermarket rubber draft trim get'r dun.
 
A doors a door to the grow room. Unless you're worried about boots or warping, it's just as easy to seal one than the other (more or less). Gasketed bottom plates and aftermarket rubber draft trim get'r dun.

Thanks Mikell. I don't feel so bad about saving the $100 now. Haven't ran into you in a min Professor (lol). Stop by my thread if you get a chance. I got beans in little bottles of purified water. They'll be going into Root Riots tomorrow... FINALLY!

Always appreciate your sage advice Mikell!

Hey OP! Listen to what this guy says. He ain't no "do nothing dipshit".

LH
 
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