Sea Soil does anyone use it?

[oldmaninbc]

I bought some bags of a soil called Sea Soil , I think it comes from Vancouver Island.
Has any members used this product and if so, how did you treat it, what did you add to it?

Thanks in advance for your time.

 

[Ca++]

Fish and forest, composted for two years.
Says it has everything. I would treat it with love and respect, and not mess with it at all. Though added air often helps canna plants. Once in use you get to see what it really is. The habit of trying to improve things that haven't shown they need improving, isn't something to get involved with. Not unless you like the taste of some particular shit. Most find bat shit tastes foul, but some do like rabbit shit. Other shit such as cow has an interesting slurry taste, but I would hope you instantly extinguished it. On the whole, I would just look at it's consistency, think about adding air, then use it as it comes from the bag anyway.

 

[oldmaninbc]

Fish and forest, composted for two years.
Says it has everything. I would treat it with love and respect, and not mess with it at all. Though added air often helps canna plants. Once in use you get to see what is really is. The habit of trying to improve things that haven't shown they need improving, isn't something to get involved with. Not unless you like the taste of some particular shit. Most find bat shit tastes foul, but some do like rabbit shit. Other shit such as cow has an interesting slurry taste, but I would hope you instantly extinguished it. On the whole, I would just look at it's consistency, think about adding air, then use it as it comes from the bag anyway.

Hello...the salesman who sold me the product said growers add perlite , it is quite dense, he also mentioned most add EWC as well. With FF I always added 15% EWC. He advised against adding extra nutrients at first. What I didn't ask and should have is should I add 2 tbsp per gallon of soil with dolomite like I did with Fox Farm. The way I handled FF I never ran into nutrient problems.

Any thoughts on the dolomite?

 

[Ca++]

Dolomite is very soil specific. It raises pH. You could do a soil test if you are concerned. I imagine anything more than perlite could have a negative effect though. The soil should be right as it is. Or prove it's not through growing with it, then adjust or ditch it

 

[moose eater]

Dolomite is very soil specific. It raises pH. You could do a soil test if you are concerned. I imagine anything more than perlite could have a negative effect though. The soil should be right as it is. Or prove it's not through growing with it, then adjust or ditch it

It has been my understanding for many years that a quality dolomitic lime should be balanced at about a ph of 7, or neutral.

Though I can remember when a source I'd used for numerous years (Green Acres Dolomite Lime) took a dive and suddenly their 40-lb. bag of dolomite lime was testing near 5.5 or lower. Turned my reagent colors I'd never seen before. So, I trashed that and bought more.

Likewise other forms of calcium, specifically gypsum, which is also supposed to be neutral as a rule, I purchased some Epsoma brand in a bag, and it was also in the mid-range 5 or so on ph. Replaced it with some DTE and it was at ph 7; neutral.

 

[Ca++]

It has been my understanding for many years that a quality dolomitic lime should be balanced at about a ph of 7, or neutral.

Though I can remember when a source I'd used for numerous years (Green Acres Dolomite Lime) took a dive and suddenly their 40-lb. bag of dolomite lime was testing near 5.5 or lower. Turned my reagent colors I'd never seen before. So, I trashed that and bought more.

Likewise other forms of calcium, specifically gypsum, which is also supposed to be neutral as a rule, I purchased some Epsoma brand in a bag, and it was also in the mid-range 5 or so on ph. Replaced it with some DTE and it was at ph 7; neutral.

It's Ca and Mg. Ca is the usual cause of high water pH. People will measure water pH, and talk about hardness like it's the same thing. They are entwined. Mg is pretty neutral.
I'm surprised to hear of a bag at 5.5 as that doesn't seem at all right. It's pH increasing abilities make it a good source of Ca and Mg, but only if your pH could benefit from coming up a bit. Otherwise other sources are used. This soil should be fine though, and no matter who is right, our unaligned ideas are a sure sign to not use any, in a soil that should be good.

 

[moose eater]

It's Ca and Mg. Ca is the usual cause of high water pH. People will measure water pH, and talk about hardness like it's the same thing. They are entwined. Mg is pretty neutral.
I'm surprised to hear of a bag at 5.5 as that doesn't seem at all right. It's pH increasing abilities make it a good source of Ca and Mg, but only if your pH could benefit from coming up a bit. Otherwise other sources are used. This soil should be fine though, and no matter who is right, our unaligned ideas are a sure sign to not use any, in a soil that should be good.

My understanding is that the reason for a lower pH with dolomite lime than with standard garden lime or calcium carbonate is due to the 30-some percent(?) in magnesium in dolomite lime, versus what is often 3-8% magnesium in garden lime.

Gypsum also sports a good bump in calcium, but is typically also neutral.

 

[oldmaninbc]

It has been my understanding for many years that a quality dolomitic lime should be balanced at about a ph of 7, or neutral.

Though I can remember when a source I'd used for numerous years (Green Acres Dolomite Lime) took a dive and suddenly their 40-lb. bag of dolomite lime was testing near 5.5 or lower. Turned my reagent colors I'd never seen before. So, I trashed that and bought more.

Likewise other forms of calcium, specifically gypsum, which is also supposed to be neutral as a rule, I purchased some Epsoma brand in a bag, and it was also in the mid-range 5 or so on ph. Replaced it with some DTE and it was at ph 7; neutral.

Hello, are you saying, if I have a near neutral soil and added dolomite nothing of any significance would change?

When I worked with Fox Farm or something similar(years and years) I always added 2tbsp of dolomite per gal. I never had any unwanted nutrient issues. I am trying to decide if I should incorporate it into the new Sea Soil?

 

[moose eater]

Hello, are you saying, if I have a near neutral soil and added dolomite nothing of any significance would change?

When I worked with Fox Farm or something similar(years and years) I always added 2tbsp of dolomite per gal. I never had any unwanted nutrient issues. I am trying to decide if I should incorporate it into the new Sea Soil?

-IF- it's good quality dolomite lime, it should test at a neutral ph of about 7, yes, but I also gave an example of a source I'd used for years that suddenly must've changed where they were getting their stuff mined from, and it went to shit.

It was back then that I began frequently testing various amendments to find out what was what.

Consider how often we read about contaminants or lack of truth in labeling with animal foods and even human food. Now imagine how often there's the possibility of bullshit on a gardening amendment label.

 

[med-man]

I better cheaper option is "the answer " from costco. 85L for 13.00 sells out fast every spring

Like sea soil, you can get away with small to medium plants just being watered by hand or rain till harvest. Sea soil will just cost a bit more but get the job done

 

[oldmaninbc]

I better cheaper option is "the answer " from costco. 85L for 13.00 sells out fast every spring

Like sea soil, you can get away with small to medium plants just being watered by hand or rain till harvest. Sea soil will just cost a bit more but get the job done

No costco close by me. It would cost more to drive there then what I would save. I don't drive I would have to convince my wife. She didn't want to drive me to Vernon to buy Blue Sky organics.

Question for you, I am going to add some worm castings and perlite as the Sea Soil is very dense,
What I am trying to figure out is; should I add 2 tbsp. of dolomite per gal. like I did with my previous soil mixes, like Fox Farm or like sunshine #4 etc.

Any opinion on that matter?

 

[moose eater]

No costco close by me. It would cost more to drive there then what I would save. I don't drive I would have to convince my wife. She didn't want to drive me to Vernon to buy Blue Sky organics.

Question for you, I am going to add some worm castings and perlite as the Sea Soil is very dense,
What I am trying to figure out is; should I add 2 tbsp. of dolomite per gal. like I did with my previous soil mixes, like Fox Farm or like sunshine #4 etc.

Any opinion on that matter?

Question wasn't for me, but I scaled back my dolomite to try and preserve a ph lower than 7 (like 6.1 to 6.4) in my mixes, using instead 1 to 1-1/2 TBSP of dolomite or less, and replacing with some added gypsum.

But my mixes come out somewhat hot for magnesium, and I've tested commercial (even high end 'organic') ewc's and found most of them to be high (like, very high) in both potassium and magnesium. That included cheapo stuff like Wiggle Worm, & expensive stuff like Roots Organic and Wonder Worm.

 

[oldmaninbc]

It seems that several strains like the ph around the mid 6ph.

I have never done a controlled experiment to see if the difference from around 7 to mid 6 makes a difference.

My tap water is 7ph

Around week 4 of bloom I start to had Cal/mag. While my system could probably benefit from some changes, I am very reluctant to change what I do. I have grown for 5 decades and have never been good at fixing nutrient issues. I'm sure I could do things to increase weight and terps but I would have to feel very confident in any changes and that would be difficult for me.

I'm in my mid 70s and my brain does not function as well as it use to. I can easily mix things up or forget what I am doing. Being consistent in my doings works best and even at that I can mix things up.

I have enough soil from my last grow to fill a 5 gal container, the last grow was good, except for the hermi issue. There are photos here, it was healthy grow with no problems on my part.

I will use that container to compare with my new soil as the plants grow.

 

[moose eater]

It seems that several strains like the ph around the mid 6ph.

I have never done a controlled experiment to see if the difference from around 7 to mid 6 makes a difference.

My tap water is 7ph

Around week 4 of bloom I start to had Cal/mag. While my system could probably benefit from some changes, I am very reluctant to change what I do. I have grown for 5 decades and have never been good at fixing nutrient issues. I'm sure I could do things to increase weight and terps but I would have to feel very confident in any changes and that would be difficult for me.

I'm in my mid 70s and my brain does not function as well as it use to. I can easily mix things up or forget what I am doing. Being consistent in my doings works best and even at that I can mix things up.

I have enough soil from my last grow to fill a 5 gal container, the last grow was good, except for the hermi issue. There are photos here, it was healthy grow with no problems on my part.

I will use that container to compare with my new soil as the plants grow.

I once had a pin/razor-sharp memory. I'm 65 now.

I now struggle at times with 'graying' out of simple shit, like a name of a person or an object, including people or things I've known for most of my life. Frustrating.

-THE- best advice I can give in growing and finding or tracking changes in approaches/methods, amendments, soils, etc., whether they work or don't, regardless of condition of one's memory in the current time or later, is to TAKE NOTES(!!!!!). There's nothing like being able to pick a page out of a spiral notebook and dial up exactly what you did that worked well or fucked everything up.

Seriously. With all sincerity.

 

[oldmaninbc]

I once had a pin/razor-sharp memory. I'm 65 now.

I now struggle at times with 'graying' out of simple shit, like a name of a person or an object, including people or things I've known for most of my life. Frustrating.

-THE- best advice I can give in growing and finding or tracking changes in approaches/methods, amendments, soils, etc., whether they work or don't, regardless of condition of one's memory in the current time or later, is to TAKE NOTES(!!!!!). There's nothing like being able to pick a page out of a spiral notebook and dial up exactly what you did that worked well or fucked everything up.

Seriously. With all sincerity.

I got my Personal Production Licence in 2010 and have kept a grow journal for each and every grow. I could probably keep a better journal but it is adequate. If I don't make notes quickly I forget the facts. Mostly all is entered, if I made too strong of a mix I would make a note as not to repeat that error.

I have several chronic health issues and the drugs I take mess with my thinking.

 

[Ca++]

It sounds like you know how to test pH, and that mid 6s is nice. What is the compost measuring.

Late application of calmag might need addressing. Calmag is really for adding calcium, and the mag is there, just to stop it getting locked out by the calcium increase. Often you will find other metal, that calcium and magnesium lock out. It's really extra calcium, and the things that would get messed up by extra calcium.
Now a need for calcium mid bloom, isn't easy to fix with calcium in the feed. The plants are not good and using it by then. It really needs giving to them earlier.
A byproduct of calmag, as in, something to gives that you didn't ask for, is usually a lot of nitrogen. Maybe a number, about 80% of the size of the calcium number. Much more N than Mg. N fixes lower leaves going pale at this time, and Ca issues are top leaves, generally spotting. Without going into too much detail. N and Ca are different ends of the plant. Mg might look more like the middle, and stripes.

This talk of the calcium additive having to bring along some Mg. Then the Mg having to bring along other metals, gives an idea of how finely balanced a good feed or compost mix is.
The question then becomes, do you trust the brand. As adding castings and dolomite, suggests you think it's no good. I note another poster gave the opinion it will get you through to the end, if your pot is big enough. So that sounds like it's alright to me. I wouldn't add anything, and would instead trust the costly compost isn't something I could blindly improve upon.


You really have to work it, to see what it lacks. Of get a soil test done, before changing things. Otherwise it's like swinging your bat on the dark, and hoping to hit the ball right

 

[med-man]

If you are growing outside. Plants tend to handle life alot different

I would dust the top with lime, just a soft skim coat.

Perlite is great and so are worm castings.

Indoors you can easily control your ph. I find vegging plants prefer 6.8 to 7.0 and drop in down a point or 2 every couple weeks.

 

[JKD]

Also to consider:
pH indicates how acidic or basic a solution is, but alkalinity measures the solution’s ability to resist changes in pH when acids are introduced.

A solution can have a high pH but low alkalinity (meaning it is easily affected by acids), or low pH but high alkalinity (meaning it is acidic but resistant to further pH change).

In either soil or hydro, high alkalinity is often desired to maintain stable pH levels.

 

[IC GLASS]

I bought some bags of a soil called Sea Soil , I think it comes from Vancouver Island.
Has any members used this product and if so, how did you treat it, what did you add to it?

Thanks in advance for your time.

Sea Soil is a popular organic soil amendment that many gardeners use to enrich their garden soil. It's known for its nutrient-rich content, which can help improve soil structure and fertility. If you've purchased Sea Soil, you can use it as a top dressing for your garden beds or mix it into the soil before planting. Some gardeners also add compost or other organic matter to enhance its benefits. It's important to follow the instructions on the bag for the best results.

 

[ice minus]

I better cheaper option is "the answer " from costco. 85L for 13.00 sells out fast every spring

Like sea soil, you can get away with small to medium plants just being watered by hand or rain till harvest. Sea soil will just cost a bit more but get the job done

Say what? I've never heard of this before.. And the price of media has gone insane here in Waterloo

I most certainly have 3 Costco's to choose from within driving distance, actually. Is that the actual product name? Thanks for the tip!
Never seen a soil that can go til harvest just on water alone - not even the Black Swallow KIS Mix, not even close!

Thanks again Med Man!