S&P 125 Wiring help needed...

[richirich_99]

Hey guys so im working on my new cab and just got my new s&p 125 fan. When i took off the wiring cover i found what you see in the pic. I want to be able to wire it to an extension cord. Anyone help me out here???

Also needed to double check if my idea sounds as if it will work. I will be venting my entire cab, flower cab will have 150 hps in a cooltube, with 5in diameter. I will be pulling air thru the cooltube, from the flower cab, which will also have passive intakes connecting to the veg area, as well as intakes on the floor of the flower cab. The flower area will be about 15"wX23 3/8"Dx32"H. The veg is the same size except with only about half to 3/4ths of the height. Will my 5in dia cooltube allow enough room to exhaust all of the heat from both areas? if anyone can help me out with how much and what size intakes for both the bottom of the flower as well as attached with the mother/veg area. Thanks guys!

ps i'll have more pics of my cab up in a day or two, batteries died in the camera and had to use my cell.

 

[rebo]

Yah.. those little screws in the plastic connector.. loosen one a bit, then put the wire in the hole and tighten the screw on it, just opposite of the wire color you're trying to match up to.. The S&P directions will tell you which of the possibilities on the connector go for which fan speed, but I think white to white, and black to either black or brown, depending on the fan speed you want.

 

[richirich_99]

i found a lil help from the S@P website and what colors are what. what if my extension cord only has two wires, and not 3? Should i buy a 3 prong cord for it?

 

[FreezerBoy]

The fan housing is plastic and cannot conduct electricity. Therefore, there's no need to ground it. A common 16 gauge ext cord will be fine. (Note the bigger the # the smaller the wire so 14 is cool, though overkill, while 18 would be inadvisable)

I may be paranoid but, I wanted my cord locked in place and there was no cord lock/strain relief provided. I chronicled my problem here. If you can find the item petemoss refers to in post #8, I'd use that. Otherwise, you can do as I did and fashion your own strain relief and use a big ol' knot in the cord to lock it in.

 

[richirich_99]

I will read that thread that you linked freezerboy. I think the cord i will be using is 14gauge, but will have to double check. just hope i can control the sound of this thing once its hooked up.

anyone got any help with the other part of my quesiton?

 

[madpenguin]

There are other reasons to ground an appliance besides safety but you can do what you wish. Were it me, I'd go to Lowes and buy a grounded cord. Unless the entire fan housing is plastic, a shock potential is still there. Regardless, a ground wire should be used anyway.

Go pick up an NM connector that FreezerBoy linked to. Tying knots in your cord is really a bad idea, but again, do what you wish.

 

[FreezerBoy]

The housing is plastic. What are you going to ground to?

 

[madpenguin]

The motor itself. If the motor housing was plastic then I'd find that a little odd but you never know.

Actually just noticed that a fine print note in the NEC mentions tying a knot in your cord for tension relief. Who knew? Personally, I wouldn't do it, but then again, I tend to overkill everything as I'm sure you've surmised.

 

[madpenguin]

When in doubt, read the manual... :wink:

If it were me, I'd find a way to professionally mount a 3 pole switch to the fan housing. Feed your common terminal (black screw) with your 120v line in and then use your 2 traveler terminals (brass screws) for the black and brown wires respectively. That way you could switch between the high and low settings on-the-fly.

 

[madpenguin]

i found a lil help from the S@P website and what colors are what. what if my extension cord only has two wires, and not 3? Should i buy a 3 prong cord for it?

You may have found the wiring diagram that I posted but it seems you still don't understand it. There is no ground wire attachment in your fan so your 2 conductor cord is just fine.

White to white and then black to either black or brown, depending on what speed you want your fan to run at, but not both.

I'm actually looking to buy a couple S&P's.... The 3 way switch is a great idea if you understand what I'm talking about. Probably what I'll do when I get mine. Kind of short sighted not to have a built-in switch for that....

If there is room, you could cut a small rectangular hole and mount the switch from the inside of the box, and then drill 2 small holes in the side of the box where the screw holes on the switch would line up to, then screw the switch from the outside of the box.

 

[richirich_99]

So i got the fan wiring figured, after i posted my last one asking about it realized it doesnt have a ground wire.
Madpenguin-i like the idea about the swtich, but its a lil complcated for me, i know very lil about electrical. I may hook the fan to either a speed controller or a variac to help the sound if its needed.

so now that i have the fan wiring down, on to the next part......will my s&p pulling thru a 5inch cooltube with a 150 watt hps be enough to cool both my flower cab and my veg/mother/clone area? also need help with calculating how many what size intakes i need in each room/ and connecting from the veg to flower. THanks!

 

[madpenguin]

What you'd want to use is called a 3-way switch. Used for controlling one light fixture from 2 different locations, such as from either end of a hall way.

It has 3 screw terminals on it instead of 2 like your average light switch. Lowes and HD has them in abundance. You'd need a dremel or some other precision cutting tool to notch a rectangular hole in the side of the housing. The housing would act as your light switch plate cover. You could pull a light switch plate cover off your wall and use the hole as a template.

Would probably need to snip both ends of the switch yoke with a pair of dykes to fit it inside the box but I'm not sure. You should be able to make the switch fit inside the housing without structurally damaging the switch anyway. Incoming hot to the black screw. Internal black wire to one brass screw and the internal brown wire to the other brass screw. Then incoming white to internal white.

You'd have to snip that quick connector off but I would do that anyway, regardless of whether or not I was using a switch. Those things are pretty chincey.

Once you have the hole cut, try to drill from the inside of the box with a very small bit, right through the 2 holes that fastens the plate cover to the switch. One hole above the switch and one below. Then come at it from the outside of the housing to secure your switch with screws.

A label maker or engraver to put "high" and "low" above and below the switch would complete it...

 

[dasmo]

The fan housing is plastic and cannot conduct electricity. Therefore, there's no need to ground it. A common 16 gauge ext cord will be fine. (Note the bigger the # the smaller the wire so 14 is cool, though overkill, while 18 would be inadvisable)

I just wired my s&p 200x and i first tried it with a 14 gauge but the wires were too big for the connector on the fan. I had a what I think is a 16 gauge (looks like your common ext. cord) so I used that and it worked without much trouble.

 

[richirich_99]

i think my cord that i used was also a 16in common house extension cord.

anyone got any links for how to calculate how much intake i will need, and how much connecting from the mother to flower area. Hope to get some more pics up maybe later tonight or tomorrow.

 

[richirich_99]

so if my math is right, i believe that for a 5in cooltube that will be pulling the hot air out of the cab that i will need about 39.25sq inches for intake. my concern is do the holes that will attach the veg room to the flower count toward my total for intakes? also these holes are basically the exhaust for the veg room. any help me out im a lil confused.

 

[FreezerBoy]

The general rule for a single chamber is 3 equal sized holes. One powered exhaust at top, two passive intakes at the bottom. Never done the multi-chamber thing. Try Ventilation 101

 

[ahhhavalanche!]

i also have the S&P 125 and agree with you that it is a very loud fan, i bought it because people recommended that it was very quiet (liars)... ive redesigned my cab a few times, right now i have it set up with the conical intake and exhaust housing removed, shoved in a box with some sound isolating insulation, and on the low setting, and it is still a pretty noisy beast... good luck with yours... also mine is not grounded, because there is no easy way to do it, it is connected to a 3-prong, but the ground wire dead ends at the fan

 

[madpenguin]

Oi. What's the deal with them then? This is why I was going to buy a couple. For stealth. Is this not the case then?

Thanks.

 

[richirich_99]

i dont think that the fan is really that loud for as much air as it moves. Its quieter than the 200cfm axial that i have.

Thanks freezer, i'll reread over that ventilation thread, hope to find more with this multi chamber thing. I just want to make sure i know what size and how many before i start cutting away and mess something up. Its mostly just needing help with the intakes of the flower room/exhaust from mother room. and the intakes that are in the flower room themselves. im off to go look for more info.

 

[FreezerBoy]

Oi. What's the deal with them then? This is why I was going to buy a couple. For stealth. Is this not the case then?

Thanks.

Compared to my Elicient (5-10 dB quieter than the Vortex model per model) the S&P is very quiet. The Elicent could be heard across the street at my neighbor's door. The S&P doesn't make it out of the garage. In the garage you know it's there.

You need to define "stealth." If that means silence then you'll have to put the fan (any fan) outside the room or lock people out. If it means low enough to be masked by a louder noise or to be pinned on a patsy, the S&P is a great fan.