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Rosseting leaves... Help

OSBC

Member
My last to runs start Rosseting soon as I put um in my flower room. Leaves kinda droop and leaves rosset?? What would b the reason for this.? They are perky and thriving in veg soon as I put um in flower room it starts?? I need to figure this out asap...
 

Scrogerman

Active member
Veteran
Pics man? more info too, what lights-heights/rig/enviro from the veg to bloom rooms & anything else ya can think of, might help. my guess would be light/enviro stress from the little info youve given, but its unlikely you'll get an answer without the relevent info, picture speaks a thousand words.
 
Last edited:

señorsloth

Senior Member
Veteran
this may be a dumb question but what does it mean when a leaf rosettes?

*edit* nevermind i wiki'd it
In botany, a rosette is a circular arrangement of leaves, with all the leaves at a single height.
Though rosettes usually sit near the soil, their structure is an example of a modified stem.

basically like a dandelion does, all the leaves come from the same node height near the ground, is thats what your plants are doing? if so thats pretty weird!
 

OSBC

Member
pics of the leaves plus info

pics of the leaves plus info


How long has this problem been going on?moved from t5s in veg to flower room two days ago..so two days
What STRAIN are you growing?sour d and super skunk
What was the establishing technique? (seed or clone?)clone
What is the age of your plants?some two weeks from clone ant others 3 weeks
How long have they been in the soil mixture they are in now? two days
Were they in the same mixture when they were seedlings/smaller plant? If not, what mixture were they in before? yes same sunshine 4

How Tall are the plants? 12 in to 15 in
What PHASE (seedling, vegetative or flower) are the plants in? in veg in flower room gona flip in a week
What Technique are you using? (SOG, SCROG etc) some are topped some are natural
What size pots are you using? (Include how many subjects to pot) one per pot they were in a 4in pot they a 6in now a 3 gal bag as of two days ago
What substrate/medium are you using? What brand of soil mixture are you using?(percentage of perlite, vermiculite...etc?) sunshine 4
What brand Nutrient's are you using? gh 3 part half strength veg 7.5 gro,5micro,2.5 bloom
How much of each nutrient are you using with how much water? *Knowing the brand is very helpful*above
How often are you feeding?1 feed two waters. now that they are in flower room for a week veg they just got a veg feed next will b water and then switchin to bloom day before flip..gona feed every other in flower at 2.5 gro 5micro 7.5 bloom
If flowering, when did you switch over to using Bloom nutrients? not yet gona switch day before flip
What order are you mixing your nutrients? (example: veg nutes 1st, bloom 2nd ect)micro first then gro,bloom
What is the TDS/EC/PPM of your nutrients used?900 ppm on .5 scale
What is the pH of the "RUN-OFF"?just repotted dont want to flood um no runoff yet
How often are you testing pH/ppm/EC/TDS? ph/ppm everytime i give anythingWhat method of pH test was administered? Using Strips? pH pen?
How often are you watering?every other day
When was your last feeding and how often are you feeding?tonight they got first feed after going to big room
What size bulb are you using?4 600s and 2 1000s
How old is your bulbs?2 months
What is the distance to the canopy?3 ft for first few days then bout 2 ft
What is your RH Factor? (Relative Humidity) 30 to 40
What is the canopy temperature?76
What is the Day/Night Temp? (Include fluctuation range)day 78 to80 nite 65 70
What is the current Air Flow? (cfm etc.)900 cfm
Tell us about your ventilation, intake exhaust and when its running and not running ?passive intake active exhaust on a temp controller runs idle daytime.. and kicks up when temps hit 80..nite runs idle till a low temp of68 is reached also a dehumidifyer but its not running have it set at 50 outside is very low rh at this time..500 cfm air cooled hood seperate from room ventalation i have fan turned off at this time cuz room has trouble staying warm pullin 30 f air
Is the fan blowing directly at plants? yes 2 16 in
Is the grow substrate constantly wet or moist?no
Is your water HARD or SOFT? 60 ppm
What water are you using? Reverse Osmosis (RO)? Tap? Bottled? Well water? Distilled? Mineral Water?well at 6.2
If using tap water, what is the ppm/EC/TDS of the water right out of the tap?(Only if you have a tds pen)
If using RO,Distilled,mineral water, what is the ppm/EC/TDS without any additives?(Only if you have a tds pen)
Are you using water from a water softener? no
Has plant been recently pruned, cloned or pinched?a week or two ago
Have any pest chemicals been used? If so what and when?
Are plant's infected with pest's?no


:wave:
 

joe fresh

Active member
Mentor
Veteran
IME the twisty leaves at the new growth that you are talking about is Usually a PH issue or the beginning of, or too much ferts...but thats not always the case

just like that if you never gave em any ferts before and then you shoot em with 900 ppm(1.8 ec) which is pretty much max feeding then its likely you might have given em alittle shock with all those nutes...just a thought
 

OSBC

Member
I adjust ph @ 6.0- 6.2. Water and food.They start doing it soon as I put um in the big room they got fed same gh 1/2 strength 3 days before transplant, @ transplant i gave um 5ml rhizo 5ml ultimate thrive and 5ml diamond nectar.. Which ive used manytimes. Maybe the transplant to 3 gal from 5 in pot and going from t5s to hid the next is shocking um a bit?And the half strength gh they got tonite was very little I'm keepin um a bit lite so not to swamp um, want roots to spread.. The stems are strait and leaves r drooping.. I'd like to figure out why.. Maybe low rh? Bout 30% from what i can find zinc def can cause rosetting aswell as calcium.. But I don't see how cuz they are purfect till I put in the big room w hid.. Same happened last run... They grow out of it but it's buggin my why it happens.? Only thing I can think of is I used to use gh veg at full strength 15-10-5 then go to full bloom5-10-15. At 1200 ppm. these two runs I've tried to run the gh chart which says cut in half for soil dtw.. 900 ppmAnd I feed water feed with both
 

joe fresh

Active member
Mentor
Veteran
low RH maybe ? idk, but your plants look pretty healthy man,i wouldnt worry too much


i doknow that going from floros tohids you need to keep the plants away from the light and let them harden upabout 2-4days later you can lower to 18"
 

OSBC

Member
The bunchin leaves aka rosetting.. Is buggin me.. Aswell as the stems are firm and strait with the leaves drooping.. Ya lites are 3ft away now gona drop um after a few days.. Thanks for ur input Joe.. Would u take a look in the infirmary at my other post.. White fungus on rapidrooters in my nft system plants are dieing..

Thanks man
 
S

SeaMaiden

IME the twisty leaves at the new growth that you are talking about is Usually a PH issue or the beginning of, or too much ferts...but thats not always the case

just like that if you never gave em any ferts before and then you shoot em with 900 ppm(1.8 ec) which is pretty much max feeding then its likely you might have given em alittle shock with all those nutes...just a thought
Same here. Seems to always be linked to an issue with pH, which is why I go for a range. I have also found that preference for pH range can be affected by growing temperatures, as when I've seen this occur most often is when my growing conditions are too cold. Have had to work hard to get my indoor spaces warmed up because I only use them during winter.


So, I also see slight reddening of the petioles, this is a sign that phosphorous is not being utilized properly. I've never used any Sunshine mix, so I can't speak to how you might go about getting these issues resolved outside of working to shift pH feeds upwards a bit and downwards. If this were coir I would tell you to allow a broader pH range, 5.8-6.2, and ya know what? I think that's what I'm going to advise here now, let it range down into the mid-5s, see what happens.
 

OSBC

Member
Thanks seamaiden. Ya Im in Oregon.. Cold here now but room runs around 78 to 80 day and nite 68 to 70.. Maybe cold water say 50f could b inhibiting the p absorption? Last run I was ph ing @ 5.8 to 6.2 and same results..
 

OSBC

Member
Why r the leaves drooping like the pic shows.? What would cause leaves to stay firm but droopy during the day cycle?
 
Looks like a def pH problem....too low in my estimation. I'd feed light nutes at 6.5 once and look for improvement. If not getting better, I'd grind up some dolo lime real fine and use .5 TBL per gallon to drench them with lots of runoff.

stagehand
 

OSBC

Member
Just watered them gave them a very lite water on transplant then a even smaller dose of feed 1 cup.. when they dried out and tonite I gave em a proper water hopin to see em stand up tall soon..
 

OSBC

Member
What is the proper ph for sunshine#4 .. I normally run everything at 6.0 to 6.2 some say go 6.5 and others say 5.8 or lower! And is it a good idea to add 1 tsp of dolomite lime per gal of soil ? To buffer the soil ph.. My understanding is the lime is ph 7. And it will keep it from rising past 7 and buffer the soil in general to keep it more stable.. Is this correct..? And what are your thoughts on gh dtw feed schedule? I have had good results running the hydro schedule in sunshine at 6.0 to 6.2 no lime in sunshine w a feed water feed schedule.. It seems since I have went to the dtw schedule which is half the strength of the hydro iv been having all sorts of issues.. Ya think the half strength is not enough nutes to keep um strong and healthy??
 

joe fresh

Active member
Mentor
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6.3

and again from over watering, and if feeding every 2nd watering then i would not go over 900-1000 ppm max for large heavy feeding plants

i dont go over 700-800


if only feeding once a week (feed water water feed) then 900-1000 ppm is okmaybe higher dependingon size of plant andhow the individual plant can handle it
 

OSBC

Member
Joe. What nutes to u use.. Strength schedule ect? and what style do u grow? What kind of yields do u achieve?
 
S

SeaMaiden

Thanks seamaiden. Ya Im in Oregon.. Cold here now but room runs around 78 to 80 day and nite 68 to 70.. Maybe cold water say 50f could b inhibiting the p absorption? Last run I was ph ing @ 5.8 to 6.2 and same results..
Definitely do NOT use such cold water, it needs to be warmed up to at least around 65*F for proper utilization. The room temps you're reporting are not out of line, IME/IMO.
What is the proper ph for sunshine#4 .. I normally run everything at 6.0 to 6.2 some say go 6.5 and others say 5.8 or lower! And is it a good idea to add 1 tsp of dolomite lime per gal of soil ? To buffer the soil ph.. My understanding is the lime is ph 7. And it will keep it from rising past 7 and buffer the soil in general to keep it more stable.. Is this correct..? And what are your thoughts on gh dtw feed schedule? I have had good results running the hydro schedule in sunshine at 6.0 to 6.2 no lime in sunshine w a feed water feed schedule.. It seems since I have went to the dtw schedule which is half the strength of the hydro iv been having all sorts of issues.. Ya think the half strength is not enough nutes to keep um strong and healthy??
Dolomitic lime is different from things like hydrated lime, which I believe drives pH down. Dolomitic lime definitely not only drives pH up, but helps to keep it up via its CaCO3 & MgCO3 (calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate, respectively), both mineral compounds make water alkaline, as in resistant to pH shift. So what it will do is buffer the pH UP, not down.

As for the plants, the first two look as though any one of the following could be the problem, but leaf turgor is the real test/proof here. Underwatering--leaves will be limp and have no turgor. Overwatering they may be limp, but might not be (i.e. will have some leaf turgor). The other scenario where I've seen them being held downward that way is when conditions are just too cool, but the temps you're reporting would make me tend to discount cold as a possibility, which puts us back on over- or under-watering.

The last plant is right on the edge of being overfed, but it looks pretty good to me.

Many people forget that leaf appearance, as in angles they're held, tacoing or canoing, folding, etcetera, may be a response to ambient conditions with specific regard to temperature and relative humidity. Look up vapor pressure deficit in order to gain a better understanding of what I'm talking about.
http://www.hydro.co.nz/1_information/1_vpd/info_vpd.html
 
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