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Rootrot
- Thread starter dogmeat
- Start date
You can normally tell by your plant. At first you will get no growth, and then the plant will start to look wilty and sick. I have seen people keep the soil so wet the plants roots became soft and mushy. That is why it is important to let the plant dry down between waterings....
G
Guest
Initial
Yellowed, droopy and wilting leaves (possibly exhibiting mineral deficiencies). Leaf curl over - ram's horns' - roots are unable to uptake nutrients at that strength because they are infected.
pH becomes more acidic (pH should rise slowly in a healthy system)
'Burnt' root tips (browning tips may also be a result of light exposure, or over fertilization)
Reduced water consumption and rising nutrient strength
Brown colored roots. (Note: GH "Micro" will stain roots brown as well; stain darkens @ ppm's. Healthy root should be white or slightly tan)
Advanced:
Brown and slimy roots with a slight to strong rotting odor. Plant may appear healthy.
Reddish and swollen root collar, becoming blackened over time. Eventually the plant will fall over as all connecting tissue will have been 'eaten away'.
Note: Root damage is permanent; new root hairs can form, but damaged roots will not regenerate. Lightly infected roots may turn white again if treated promptly.
Dead roots serve as energy sources for pythium; snip off dead roots and remove flating root piece by changing the tank frequently.
Physical test of advanced root rot:
"Brown tissue on the outer portion of the root easily pulls off, leaving a thin strand of hair-like vascular tissue exposed."
Management Strategies
Keeping the crop healthy, vigorous and stress-free is the best "cure" against pythium. Pythium is almost impossible to 100% eradicate from an infected system; this involves starting completely over (with new mothers, containers, equipment, etc). An infected crop can be nursed along, and subsequent crops can still yield, provided the grower takes care to minimize the growth and spread of pythium in the system.
Starting with a pythium-free system is the best strategy:
Startup with a new crop:
-disinfect the system. Manual scrubbing and bleach might be necessary.
-add tap water
-disinfect the water with strong h2o2. It takes 100ppm to kill pythium outright, however this can also kill small plants. Wait 24 hours for h2o2 to dissipate to a safe level - do not add tap water to system! Add only h2o2-treated water.
-add nutrients and beneficial enzymes. The aerobic-loving enzymes will colonize the sterilized medium and system, hopefully displacing any anaerobic bacteria.
Yellowed, droopy and wilting leaves (possibly exhibiting mineral deficiencies). Leaf curl over - ram's horns' - roots are unable to uptake nutrients at that strength because they are infected.
pH becomes more acidic (pH should rise slowly in a healthy system)
'Burnt' root tips (browning tips may also be a result of light exposure, or over fertilization)
Reduced water consumption and rising nutrient strength
Brown colored roots. (Note: GH "Micro" will stain roots brown as well; stain darkens @ ppm's. Healthy root should be white or slightly tan)
Advanced:
Brown and slimy roots with a slight to strong rotting odor. Plant may appear healthy.
Reddish and swollen root collar, becoming blackened over time. Eventually the plant will fall over as all connecting tissue will have been 'eaten away'.
Note: Root damage is permanent; new root hairs can form, but damaged roots will not regenerate. Lightly infected roots may turn white again if treated promptly.
Dead roots serve as energy sources for pythium; snip off dead roots and remove flating root piece by changing the tank frequently.
Physical test of advanced root rot:
"Brown tissue on the outer portion of the root easily pulls off, leaving a thin strand of hair-like vascular tissue exposed."
Management Strategies
Keeping the crop healthy, vigorous and stress-free is the best "cure" against pythium. Pythium is almost impossible to 100% eradicate from an infected system; this involves starting completely over (with new mothers, containers, equipment, etc). An infected crop can be nursed along, and subsequent crops can still yield, provided the grower takes care to minimize the growth and spread of pythium in the system.
Starting with a pythium-free system is the best strategy:
Startup with a new crop:
-disinfect the system. Manual scrubbing and bleach might be necessary.
-add tap water
-disinfect the water with strong h2o2. It takes 100ppm to kill pythium outright, however this can also kill small plants. Wait 24 hours for h2o2 to dissipate to a safe level - do not add tap water to system! Add only h2o2-treated water.
-add nutrients and beneficial enzymes. The aerobic-loving enzymes will colonize the sterilized medium and system, hopefully displacing any anaerobic bacteria.
G
Guest
i have now
Hydroguard Bio-Fungicide
Hydroguard is a bio-fungicide water treatment that helps suppress and resist
damping off diseases. Unlike the use of fungicides alone, it breaks the chronic
disease cycle while leaving no toxic residues. Also useful throughout a plants
life in hydrogardens such as NFT or Aeroponics. A phenomenal product which
will strengthen your clones 'roots and offer your new plants the best chance of
survival when transplanted.
Hydroguard Bio-Fungicide
Hydroguard is a bio-fungicide water treatment that helps suppress and resist
damping off diseases. Unlike the use of fungicides alone, it breaks the chronic
disease cycle while leaving no toxic residues. Also useful throughout a plants
life in hydrogardens such as NFT or Aeroponics. A phenomenal product which
will strengthen your clones 'roots and offer your new plants the best chance of
survival when transplanted.
sonoma
Active member
I am fighting root rot myself, never had it this bad, but plants are dying every day. Fully budding beauties dying....ouch....I've had many problems over the years, but I've never had anything that killed perfectly healthy plants like this. I've had to add plants every day to fill the empty spots.
I went and got some H202 today to try to cleanup. Does anyone know a good ratio I could flood my plants with? Thanks for the post!
I went and got some H202 today to try to cleanup. Does anyone know a good ratio I could flood my plants with? Thanks for the post!
Have you seen the movie the craft..... well I just removed 3 plants out of a rubbermaid that had it BAD. I left one in it looks like it'll fight through...... ok in the craft a witch casts some spell on some chick that takes a shower, she washes her hair and it gets all ratty and just kind of slides off of her scalp..... root rot reminds me of this, like nasty insides of pumpkins or something of the sort..... once a plant is overrun with it... who knows.... h2o2 can fight off some problems in the water.... in my experience is if the roots lean to being softer and dingy then it's not good.... firm and white (translucent even)
I been putting like a quater cup to a 4 gallon bucket. Dosnt seem to phase the plants at all.
Its fucked up, the plants just instantly wilt for me and the tops fold over. I have one thats kinda comming out of it but i dont think itll survive. some of the leaves are comming back. are lime green and getting perky again but its like maybe 5% of the plant.
Its fucked up, the plants just instantly wilt for me and the tops fold over. I have one thats kinda comming out of it but i dont think itll survive. some of the leaves are comming back. are lime green and getting perky again but its like maybe 5% of the plant.
Go with 10ml per gallon of Hydroguard. Not quite indicated full strength but close enough.
Dogmeat, if you are having that much root rot you need to address why. Water temps too high? Too much light getting in? Etc.
Im finishing my first ever grow and I dont understand why people get root rot when the ways to keep it at bay are so simple.
Dogmeat, if you are having that much root rot you need to address why. Water temps too high? Too much light getting in? Etc.
Im finishing my first ever grow and I dont understand why people get root rot when the ways to keep it at bay are so simple.
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A few 2 liters of cheap soda! Empty (or drink) and fill with water and freeze. Swap em every 12 hours and root rot is a memory.
slimy smells like ass brown gunk on your roots... touch them... if they are a slimy mushisness texture to them... you got it...
cure: dump rez. clean rez if possible... then fill up with a h202 solution, search the site for the exact ratio. theres a product some ppl use.. SM-90 is suppose to work pretty well. I haven't used it personally. However both of these will kill all beneficials. I would give them a rinse in a h202 solution for a day, then dump the rez and refill it with some form of beneficials... I personally use EA/EN and it works great for me... others have had good success with hydroguard. Last thing.. keep the rez temps down. Expensive means... buy a chiller. Cheaper... freeze water bottles and change them out regularly.
EDIT : thanks for refreshin my memory
cure: dump rez. clean rez if possible... then fill up with a h202 solution, search the site for the exact ratio. theres a product some ppl use.. SM-90 is suppose to work pretty well. I haven't used it personally. However both of these will kill all beneficials. I would give them a rinse in a h202 solution for a day, then dump the rez and refill it with some form of beneficials... I personally use EA/EN and it works great for me... others have had good success with hydroguard. Last thing.. keep the rez temps down. Expensive means... buy a chiller. Cheaper... freeze water bottles and change them out regularly.
EDIT : thanks for refreshin my memory
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^^^^^^^^^^
I think SM-90 is what you are thinking of.
I think SM-90 is what you are thinking of.
ItsGrowTime said:
Do you know how monotonous this gets.... I had rez temps in the 80's and was using anything I could find.. from soda to ketchup bottles.... on the hour every hour they would be melted and same warm temp as the rez.... put a fan in/on your rez, or get a chiller.... don't think you'll make it with rez temps in the 80's...odds are lots of algae and pyth...... YUCK..... also I wouldn't waste alot of money on additives to try and resolve your current situation... just flush it out and try and let the plants finish... a little h2o2 is cheap so that'll do.... next run you HAVE to keep the light out and the temps down.....
I'll grab some pics of current root rot issues, and
show ya what I did....
6 Plant DWC.... all in 10 gal rubbermaid.....
1-4 finished early and were harvested.... 5-6 left...
This is the rot... plant 5 of 6 had BAD rot from being left unattended, (mainly complacency on my part) was removed....
Plant 6's now mutilated root system... siamese surgery if you will....
Plant 6 showed some stress but pulled through the rot
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hope that helps...
Berry_Coughin' said:
Yeah it is but its worth it. I just did it for 3 months and it wasnt so horrible that I would risk roots like those.
