What temperature and for how long?
I had issues doing hot water dunks for mites, but that wasn't dunking the roots. Hot air worked though, but that wouldn't work for RAs, IMO.
What about the one that lived? RAs died? Same strain ?
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Root Aphids killed with hot water alone
- Thread starter Garhart
- Start date
What temperature and for how long?
I had issues doing hot water dunks for mites, but that wasn't dunking the roots. Hot air worked though, but that wouldn't work for RAs, IMO.
What about the one that lived? RAs died? Same strain ?
I never got the chance to try the "hot water drench" method for my RA infestation. i heard too many mixed reviews on its affectiveness Vs. plant death. any water temp that high will kill off the fine root hairs, which the plants use to uptake nuterients and such. killing these off just sounds like bad ju ju to me. this doesnt mean it doesnt work though, to keep the water temps that high try using a propane burner under a watering trough. maybe even a bunch of fishtank heaters in smaller buckets for small applications.
What DID work for me was rotating different products in 3-5 day intervals. i used everything from... Spectracide, bayer advanced, bifenthrin, acephate, azamax, SNS-203, Botanigard ES, and sand at the drainage holes and top layer of soil. Spectricide worked the best ( in veg ONLY) but was the only treatment that affected plant growth, the leaves got a Little crispy but no worse then an azamax drench. In flower Botanigard ES at 3x the recommended dose every 3 days for 5 treatments did the trick for me. just make sure you bomb the rooms dirrectly after drenching to kill every flier, as they are the ones that spread the infestation throughout your grow room.
What DID work for me was rotating different products in 3-5 day intervals. i used everything from... Spectracide, bayer advanced, bifenthrin, acephate, azamax, SNS-203, Botanigard ES, and sand at the drainage holes and top layer of soil. Spectricide worked the best ( in veg ONLY) but was the only treatment that affected plant growth, the leaves got a Little crispy but no worse then an azamax drench. In flower Botanigard ES at 3x the recommended dose every 3 days for 5 treatments did the trick for me. just make sure you bomb the rooms dirrectly after drenching to kill every flier, as they are the ones that spread the infestation throughout your grow room.
nachoconqueso
Member
How many times did I say heat kills root aphids? Holy crap, I'm practically shaking my head. So sad. Countless grows ruined and the answer is pretty obvious. If you can't heat treat then your fucked. That's it, plain and simple. If you can't solve the problem from the source then you can't grow your plants. You've been defeated. Either change mediums/brands or don't and continue to fail. I'm sorry, but its true
@ Maramess: Either trash it or let it grow out or depending on how far you are, take what you can get. Sterilize your area and heat treat your medium on your next grow. I heat treat all my coco just for safety purposes. Doing this ensures that I have nothing in there but coco and whatever spores may have survived.
@ Maramess: Either trash it or let it grow out or depending on how far you are, take what you can get. Sterilize your area and heat treat your medium on your next grow. I heat treat all my coco just for safety purposes. Doing this ensures that I have nothing in there but coco and whatever spores may have survived.
Nacho,
I agree with Retro that RA's will die at a certain temperature, and that it may or may not be a temp that Cannabis can survive.
Seems to me that the hard part is maintaining the right water temp.
I don't have hot water in my room. I could bring in an electric hot plate one burner with a stock pot big enough to hold the container. I have a submersible thermometer.
Still seems that the logistics of keeping the water at the proper temp would be trickie. You put the container with medium in the warm water, and the water temp will drop real fast, cooled by the container and medium. So then I'll have to warm the water up to the optimal temp.
I'm afraid. Got any ideas? I wouldn't mind trying this on a few plants that are extras.
Another consideration for me is that I grow in coco, and have just changed to new coco after 4 crops in the old coco. The new I amended with Met 52. I'm planning to reuse the coco, nurturing the Met 52 that is supposed to work for a year or more. Above 105˚F, the Met 52 dies. That would be highly undesireable for me. I might try this when I'm getting ready to change coco in about a year. But not till then. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks. -granger
I agree with Retro that RA's will die at a certain temperature, and that it may or may not be a temp that Cannabis can survive.
Seems to me that the hard part is maintaining the right water temp.
I don't have hot water in my room. I could bring in an electric hot plate one burner with a stock pot big enough to hold the container. I have a submersible thermometer.
Still seems that the logistics of keeping the water at the proper temp would be trickie. You put the container with medium in the warm water, and the water temp will drop real fast, cooled by the container and medium. So then I'll have to warm the water up to the optimal temp.
I'm afraid. Got any ideas? I wouldn't mind trying this on a few plants that are extras.
Another consideration for me is that I grow in coco, and have just changed to new coco after 4 crops in the old coco. The new I amended with Met 52. I'm planning to reuse the coco, nurturing the Met 52 that is supposed to work for a year or more. Above 105˚F, the Met 52 dies. That would be highly undesireable for me. I might try this when I'm getting ready to change coco in about a year. But not till then. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks. -granger
I just boil my coco before I use it.
If you do it right they will do well. Sure its a radical treatment, maybe more radical than other pest treatments, but over all if it has come that far, everything is worth trying because they will die for sure of you do nothing.
I dunked them completely in ~125° water. all RAs dead afterwards and plants were ok the following days. but with just hot water alone you wont stop them of comming back.
Soon after dunking them, try applying [fresh viable] Nematodes. I'm betting it'll give you much better control, meaning they won't come back as quick. Unless you can kill the whole room, they'll always come back. Todes aren't viable for long in the fridge. Guy at Buglogical [one of the very best sources] says 10 days. I never buy them locally anymore. Good luck. -granger
B
BrnCow
Sealed room or tent run high with CO2 will kill a bunch of shit...
Can't answer your question, buy if I were to try it, I'd try to drive them out of the medium in some way. Water with 120 F water, or use a mild cedar oil solution. Then release the Kraken...er...gas. I don't think the CO2 is going to hurt the ones in the medium. IMO. Careful breathing the high CO2 low O2 air. Please report your findings. Good luck. -granger
Penniless Punk
Member
Die MF'ers! DIE!
Die MF'ers! DIE!
Thanks to Garhart for this great data.
I lost a NY Diesel to these bastards before they got dark enough to see. (Thought it was dying of oxygen deprivation so I increased it's share of air and dropped the res level down.)
Checked my other two and the 707 Headband was infested. The Strawberry Cough came through uninfected.
This is a budget grow so I couldn't afford Azamax. Before I read this post, I had doused the roots with organic pesticide, let sit for 30 seconds, then rinsed with cold water. Boiled the coco pebbles to sterilize then cooled. It's worked, but I was out of organic pesticide and they came back.
Thanks to this post, she's coming through real good.
I took the water, got it to 140. Let it sit for about 2 minutes to cool (to adjust for thermometer variations), then placed the roots(basket and all) into the pot. Let them sit for 5 minutes, removed then rinsed with lukewarm water.
Worked great. I'm checking every 3 days for new signs of infestation, so far so good.
Thanks again.
daf
Die MF'ers! DIE!
Thanks to Garhart for this great data.
I lost a NY Diesel to these bastards before they got dark enough to see. (Thought it was dying of oxygen deprivation so I increased it's share of air and dropped the res level down.)
Checked my other two and the 707 Headband was infested. The Strawberry Cough came through uninfected.
This is a budget grow so I couldn't afford Azamax. Before I read this post, I had doused the roots with organic pesticide, let sit for 30 seconds, then rinsed with cold water. Boiled the coco pebbles to sterilize then cooled. It's worked, but I was out of organic pesticide and they came back.
Thanks to this post, she's coming through real good.
I took the water, got it to 140. Let it sit for about 2 minutes to cool (to adjust for thermometer variations), then placed the roots(basket and all) into the pot. Let them sit for 5 minutes, removed then rinsed with lukewarm water.
Worked great. I'm checking every 3 days for new signs of infestation, so far so good.
Thanks again.
daf
Glad someone was able to benefit from something I found to be effective for me.
Still have the same blue bottle of bayer product and have not had to use it.
Here are a link to the original work : http://owri.oregonstate.edu/sites/default/files/documents/Wine_Progress_Reports/1994-95/Phylloxera%20in%20Oregon%20Grape%20Vines%20Biology%20and%20Treatment%20of%20Planting%20Stock%20With%20Hot%20Water%20Dips.pdf
I heat treat all my coco, had too many gifts come with it.
Having a terrible time with whiteflies right now. Sure do wish I could find a simple inexpensive solution for them. Have a thread going for them as "scale". They have been real resistant to everything I have tried. Best wishes for positive results to all.
Still have the same blue bottle of bayer product and have not had to use it.
Here are a link to the original work : http://owri.oregonstate.edu/sites/default/files/documents/Wine_Progress_Reports/1994-95/Phylloxera%20in%20Oregon%20Grape%20Vines%20Biology%20and%20Treatment%20of%20Planting%20Stock%20With%20Hot%20Water%20Dips.pdf
I heat treat all my coco, had too many gifts come with it.
Having a terrible time with whiteflies right now. Sure do wish I could find a simple inexpensive solution for them. Have a thread going for them as "scale". They have been real resistant to everything I have tried. Best wishes for positive results to all.
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as long as you have enuff hot water handy that'll do the job.
another way is if you have a 30-40+Gal hot water heater you can easily maintain the 5 min. 120 temps for a root dip.
set the temps on the water heater and check with a therm.
all HWH's have a hook up for a hose,
put your plant in the container with the hot water as they drop from 120F start using the hose hooked to the HWH to maintain the temp.
it's not the RAs on the outside of the rootball thats a pita to kill, its the eggs and RAs inside thew rootball that are the prob.
you'll also need another therm.
use one of those grill therm. with the long stick probe and sink it into the root ball,
when your maintaining 120f for 5min your good
this was given to me a few years ago.
I haven't tried it yet but it was said to have worked.
HYDROGEN PEROXIDE. That's right. Hydrogen peroxide.
Use 3 cups of water, 1 tablespoon of hydrogen peroxide, and a few drops of dish soap. Pour it in your spray bottle, shake it up, and spray your white fly problem away. Spray the tops and bottoms of the leaves and the top layer of the medium. Use once a week for 3 weeks. I hardly saw anything after 2 weeks but I gave them a 3rd treatment just as a precaution. Apparently the hydrogen peroxide kills the egg sac and eradicates this pest right at it most vulnerable point. After 3 applications I am free of this aggravating flying satan. I made up a new solution each time I sprayed as the peroxide breaks down and looses it's potency.
Now I'm wondering if this solution will kill spider mite eggs too, but I'm not introducing them into my garden to find out.lol
Hope this helped someone.
due to local criteria i'm not going to be drenching my plants any time soon, but i've spent enough time in hot greenhouses in arizona to believe that 130f is tolerable for plants. i'm surprised insects can't take it (and as always, consider the use of compound methods).
neem doesn't work on your whiteflies? i use a fine atomiser, spray upwards to cover the bottom of leaves.. kicked a lot of whitefly butt..
neem doesn't work on your whiteflies? i use a fine atomiser, spray upwards to cover the bottom of leaves.. kicked a lot of whitefly butt..
gookie crunch
New member
Ditto. did a hot water flush at 126 let Sit for a couple min not even 5 min then flushed with fresh nute water till the whole pot was a normal temp again. Haven't seen a single larva since nothing. I have yellow sticky cards just to make sure and nothing is left. Been 2 weeks now. Worked perfectly. If I see any more I'll flush again.
