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Rookie - help identifying problem

auto-guy

New member
Hello Fellas

Rookie grower in her. My first plant.
Super Lemon Haze Auto

I have noticed some issues with my plants.
I am not sure exactly what is the cause of that. I though that may be a calcium deficiency but after browsing that forum I have a doubt for that.
I flushed them 2 days ago with 6.5ph RO and fox farm "Sledge Hamer"
I think after that flush got worst...

Humidity %60
Temp 82 - 84
CO2 1350 - 1500
PPM - 1250
PAR - 1200

I am on Fox Soil chart week 6.
Added extra calmag 4mm per gal.

What do you guys think it is?


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Thanks and stay safe!
 

Smoking Gun

Active member
Please provide pictures or a highly accurate description of what the problem looks like or there is no way to offer useful advice on what to do next.
 

SuperBadGrower

Active member
Hi! Looks like too high EC. salt buildup in medium, bad element ratio due to buildup... many possibilities ^^
Peat holds on to a lot of nutrients. That feeding chart looks like a nightmare. 13 products... 13 ways to fuck up a plant.
I never feed above 1.5 EC (750 ppm) in peat and that's often still been too much.

That nutrient line it is a huge scam in my opinion. When I see this I am almost feeling sorry that your first experience growing weed involves a 13 part nutrients, which requires a degree in chemistry to really know what the hell it all does. Such a waste of time. I just chuck 2-parts and 1-parts for years. The dankness is all in the genes, not in nutrients.

The good news is that your plant looks great anyway :). Its growing well. If it were deficient in elements you would probably see signs of stunting. This plant is not stunted but the tips are taking a beating. If it stays in high EC, those leaves will turn completely brown and crispy. Then you will be inviting more problems.

Check the runoff EC, it must be different than the 1250 ppm you put in.

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I'mback

Comfortably numb!
Sellers buy stuff and buyers buy stuff :( Each establishment pushes their own lines (for the lack of a better word). I personally believe in the KISS principle. You have to do your research to be able to question the validity of their claims, backed up with data. That being said, not just any old data. As much as Carter has liver pills, so does personal opinions/preferences etc... You must be able to extrapolate the chaff from the wheat and then, make an informed decision interacting with the vendor :tiphat:
 

aridbud

automeister
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Cut down on the amount of nutes...you are OVER fertilizing!! Feed water only.
 

auto-guy

New member
Thank You all for quick reply. You guys are the best! :)

Yes I see that I have overload the nutrients.
I will flush my plants again and after that I will feed them with RO only for next couple days.
We will see whats going to happen. Ill post new pictures soon.
 

AgentPothead

Just this guy, ya know?
In my experience, autos don't need nearly the extra feeding that photoperiods do. Is that chart really pushing 2000ppm in some sections? The vast majority of that will not end up being used by the plant.
 

I'mback

Comfortably numb!
In my experience, autos don't need nearly the extra feeding that photoperiods do. Is that chart really pushing 2000ppm in some sections? The vast majority of that will not end up being used by the plant.
I think the dude that invented that formulation, was on drugs!
 

TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
PPM - 1250 or an EC of 1.8-2.1

That's way too high. You should do a slow long flush with low nutrient concentration. And then try an EC of 1.0, and slowly move up to 1.2, 1.4, etc. But only when the plant shows nutrient deficiencies.
 

auto-guy

New member
Maple_Flail

Yes I had an issue with PH.
While mixing nutrient I had to add A LOT of "PH UP". That was kind of ad. Usually with RO i had to drop just few dot`s but with nutrients that was around 15ml...
Am I doing something wrong?

Besides that plants are getting better now with RO only. I will flush again and after that Ill apply slowly nutrients.
 

Maple_Flail

Well-known member
Maple_Flail

Yes I had an issue with PH.
While mixing nutrient I had to add A LOT of "PH UP". That was kind of ad. Usually with RO i had to drop just few dot`s but with nutrients that was around 15ml...
Am I doing something wrong?

Besides that plants are getting better now with RO only. I will flush again and after that Ill apply slowly nutrients.

too much misbalanced K drops your PH, likely hit the bloom nutes too hard. this will lock out alot of things soon.

once you see signs of clearing up, (the leafs won't be curled anymore) Id go lighter on which ever suppliment has the highest last number.

generally good idea to go light on feed until you see deficencies, noit like starve the plant but wait til you see defecncies before you hit "full strenght"

which medium are you growing in?
 

AgentPothead

Just this guy, ya know?
Maple_Flail

Yes I had an issue with PH.
While mixing nutrient I had to add A LOT of "PH UP". That was kind of ad. Usually with RO i had to drop just few dot`s but with nutrients that was around 15ml...
Am I doing something wrong?

Besides that plants are getting better now with RO only. I will flush again and after that Ill apply slowly nutrients.
Are you ph'ing your nutrient reservoir? Or each batch of nutrient water before you feed? I had tons of issues with my reservoir PH rising each day, I started adding PH down directly to the reservoir, but it would climb again next day, and I just kept increasing the PPM of the reservoir by repeatedly downing it. Once I realized I was pissing away PH down I left the reservoir as is, and only PH each batch of water as I go to feed. This assumes you are making a big batch of nutrient mix for each week, then doling it out by hand. This doesn't work with an auto watering setup.
 

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