G
Guest
Having observed the growth and convenience of the DWC (bubbler) systems I've been using for seedlings & mother plants, I've decided to convert my flowering garden over to recirculating DWC.
Since, of course, I have my own ideas of how to build the system, I decided to start with a small test system in my larger Rubbermaid garden unit. This garden holds 3 shoebox-size containers that hold 1 gallon each. I used a small Rubbermaid container that holds 10 gallons as a reservoir and my spare 185gph pump.
I don't like making holes in containers below water level. I think that's just an invitation to a leak, sooner or later. I wanted all feed lines (nute & air) to come in above water level and the drain to be at water level. The feed lines come in at the top of the container and feed down. Air lines, of course, go all the way to the bottom to feed airstones.
Feed lines don't go all the way to the bottom of the container. Since the nutrient solution in the containers will siphon back to the reservoir if the pump goes off, I wanted some nutrient to be left in the container for the plants so the roots wouldn't dry. This also prevents the airstones from drying out. This siphon effect would allow me to easily change out the nutrient solution, leaving a small amount of the previous solution in each container. For most change-outs, this small amount makes no big difference and can be ignored; it simply makes it much easier to drain the reservoir instead of having to mess with each container. I've read one theory that the remaining amount in the container may help the plants by providing a starter mix of beneficial bacteria for the new reservoir mix.
I discovered several details that needed to be changed on the test garden, so I'm glad I built it. I mis-estimated the difference needed in depth between the drain and feed tubes and ended up with a couple of minor leaks when the position of the garden shifted slightly (it is on a stand). I discovered that the drain needs to be completely below the level of the holes for the feed lines; putting the feed line holes even with the top of the drain line risked leaks.
I also discovered that the pump was not powerful enough to circulate the nutrient quickly enough with a lift of over 2'. I raised the reservoir up closer to the garden, which improved nutrient flow, but still not enough to suit me. I am using 1/4" microtubing to feed the nutrient solution with a 1/2" drain line. To increase nutrient flow, I added a second feed line to each container. I also put some window screening over the "T" connectors at the ends of the nutrient feed lines to keep roots out. It isn't completely effective, but it helps.
I put a filter on the drain line by simply stretching it across the fitting. I found that any minor amount of root material striking the filter would block the drain, so I had to modify the filter so the roots couldn't block it.
Enough about lessons learned and on to the build!
Since, of course, I have my own ideas of how to build the system, I decided to start with a small test system in my larger Rubbermaid garden unit. This garden holds 3 shoebox-size containers that hold 1 gallon each. I used a small Rubbermaid container that holds 10 gallons as a reservoir and my spare 185gph pump.
I don't like making holes in containers below water level. I think that's just an invitation to a leak, sooner or later. I wanted all feed lines (nute & air) to come in above water level and the drain to be at water level. The feed lines come in at the top of the container and feed down. Air lines, of course, go all the way to the bottom to feed airstones.
Feed lines don't go all the way to the bottom of the container. Since the nutrient solution in the containers will siphon back to the reservoir if the pump goes off, I wanted some nutrient to be left in the container for the plants so the roots wouldn't dry. This also prevents the airstones from drying out. This siphon effect would allow me to easily change out the nutrient solution, leaving a small amount of the previous solution in each container. For most change-outs, this small amount makes no big difference and can be ignored; it simply makes it much easier to drain the reservoir instead of having to mess with each container. I've read one theory that the remaining amount in the container may help the plants by providing a starter mix of beneficial bacteria for the new reservoir mix.
I discovered several details that needed to be changed on the test garden, so I'm glad I built it. I mis-estimated the difference needed in depth between the drain and feed tubes and ended up with a couple of minor leaks when the position of the garden shifted slightly (it is on a stand). I discovered that the drain needs to be completely below the level of the holes for the feed lines; putting the feed line holes even with the top of the drain line risked leaks.
I also discovered that the pump was not powerful enough to circulate the nutrient quickly enough with a lift of over 2'. I raised the reservoir up closer to the garden, which improved nutrient flow, but still not enough to suit me. I am using 1/4" microtubing to feed the nutrient solution with a 1/2" drain line. To increase nutrient flow, I added a second feed line to each container. I also put some window screening over the "T" connectors at the ends of the nutrient feed lines to keep roots out. It isn't completely effective, but it helps.
I put a filter on the drain line by simply stretching it across the fitting. I found that any minor amount of root material striking the filter would block the drain, so I had to modify the filter so the roots couldn't block it.
Enough about lessons learned and on to the build!
i cant wait 2 see waht this is gonna do!!!
