Question for ventilation experts

[Dr.Snow]

Okay so this is my question...

Can I vent out of this exhaust that runs from a heater to outside WITHOUT heater exhaust running into the area when the grow exhaust is off?? I can run the fan 24h for now if that is the case but also I only have a T junction, not a WYE (which would direct flow better). Also will my grow exhaust run into the heater causing any problems?? This picture should show what I'm talking about, I'm wondering if I can vent grow air in the direction of the arrow, through the T junction.




I think that the solution is to add an innerduct fan right next to the exit (to the right of the drawn "T") and run it 24/7 but any advice from the pros is much much appreciated!!!!! THANKS!

 

[TGT]

You have to be careful when splicing into the furnace vents because you don't want any gas building up or not exhausting properly. If I were you I wouldn't put a 'T' joint like you have in the above picture. The reason is you could end up pushing the exhaust from the furnace or water heater back into them. In summer you don't really have to worry about the furnace, but it seems the water heater is connected to the same pipe. I would think the water heaters pilot light would create quite a bit of Co2 which could be a good thing. I would cut a hole as close to the the wall as you can get and attach a pipe to the current one at a 45 degree angle or less instead of the 90 degree angle the 'T' joint would have made. With it being on more of an angle it will flow better and not push the exhaust of the water heater the wrong way. Just a suggestion.

With the fan off I would think you shouldn't have too much trouble with the exhaust from the furnace or hot water tank coming back into the room, and if so I think it would only be Co2, which could be good.

I am by no means a professional, but I have done this quite a few times at many different locations and never had a problem yet. So if you need any other help don't hesitate to ask. May be someone else will chime in with another suggestion I didn't think of. Good luck!

TGT

 

[DIGITALHIPPY]

You have to be careful when splicing into the furnace vents because you don't want any gas building up or not exhausting properly. If I were you I wouldn't put a 'T' joint like you have in the above picture. The reason is you could end up pushing the exhaust from the furnace or water heater back into them. In summer you don't really have to worry about the furnace, but it seems the water heater is connected to the same pipe. I would think the water heaters pilot light would create quite a bit of Co2 which could be a good thing. I would cut a hole as close to the the wall as you can get and attach a pipe to the current one at a 45 degree angle or less instead of the 90 degree angle the 'T' joint would have made. With it being on more of an angle it will flow better and not push the exhaust of the water heater the wrong way. Just a suggestion.

With the fan off I would think you shouldn't have too much trouble with the exhaust from the furnace or hot water tank coming back into the room, and if so I think it would only be Co2, which could be good.

I am by no means a professional, but I have done this quite a few times at many different locations and never had a problem yet. So if you need any other help don't hesitate to ask. May be someone else will chime in with another suggestion I didn't think of. Good luck!

TGT

hes talking about a "y" duct like the one ive got here...

 

[hoosierdaddy]

You could install a damper duct just before the Tee. This could close the pathway when you are not exhausting. The one in the link I provide is a 24volt DC model, but I have seen them in 115volt AC models as well.
These are normally open, and will close when you send the electricity.
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...Id=10053&productId=100396420&N=10000003+90401

 

[Dr.Snow]

Thanks everyone for the quick replies! I wanted to get a Y (wye) for the ducting but could not find a 6" one at h.d. or lowes... I guess I could order one? Also wouldn't an in ducting fan right next to the wall pull everything in the right direction?

 

[ChaosCatalunya]

You have to be really careful with heater exhausts, any problems and deadly CO [Carbon Monoxide] leaks out and silently kills. If you do use this as your solution, please get a CO detector, a friends wife died like this....

 

[Dr.Snow]

You have to be really careful with heater exhausts, any problems and deadly CO [Carbon Monoxide] leaks out and silently kills. If you do use this as your solution, please get a CO detector, a friends wife died like this....

That was my concern (and why I haven't hooked up the vent as such)... I changed my mind again and I think I'll try to increase the size of a 4" dryer vent to 6" or 8" and vent right outside (through a filter of course) rather then messing with the heater vent. Now the question...

How do increase the diameter of a hole through concrete blocks from 4" to 6 or 8???? big drill? what kind of tool will help me out here?

 

[Sloppy Seconds]

If your 4" hole is in a concrete block you can "chip" away at it until its large enough, then a small bag of concrete patch will seal it back up good and tight. use your "Y" idea and you should be fine. good luck!

 

[ChaosCatalunya]

That was my concern (and why I haven't hooked up the vent as such)... I changed my mind again and I think I'll try to increase the size of a 4" dryer vent to 6" or 8" and vent right outside (through a filter of course) rather then messing with the heater vent. Now the question...

How do increase the diameter of a hole through concrete blocks from 4" to 6 or 8???? big drill? what kind of tool will help me out here?

You can get big ass drill bits that chop holes in concrete blocks, or you can bodge it with a long masonry bit and a template.

I would fit the heater's 4" pipe inside the 6 or 8" pipe all the way to the exit and still buy a $10 detector.

 

[fishheadbob]

Good call deciding against using the heater exhaust, it seemed to me there were too many bad things that could happen.
When going through the concrete block the simplest thing would be to trace a 6" or 8" hole on the block and chip it out with an undersized chisel. A larger chisel might do extra unintended removal. Seal the hole with either concrete patch, furnace cement (easy), or even masonry caulking, all at Lowes or HD.

 

[hoosierdaddy]

Don't know if buying another tool is in the cards for you or not, but a hammer drill would work fine for your application. A masonry hammer drill is used to drill holes in concrete to use concrete anchors. You can use a hammer drill to drill small holes around the circumference of your circle, and then it will be easy to just use a hammer to knock out the hole. You may be able to rent one for cheap.

 

[DIGITALHIPPY]

If your 4" hole is in a concrete block you can "chip" away at it until its large enough, then a small bag of concrete patch will seal it back up good and tight. use your "Y" idea and you should be fine. good luck!

sounds like fun work...
brings back some memories of pulling cable...
got to fight with the stuff to get it in place...