question for calmag
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- calmag mimosa cake
I like to drop everything in the last two weeks of flowering. Only "pure water" without pH adjusting or anything, "nothing but water". The plants will use the stored nutrients from their leaves that they have been storing the grow cycle. 
xet
Active member
Are your plants in soil?
Given your timeframe I find the question challenging and intriguing.
With all due respect to other growers and their methods and experiences and knowledge, for soil: I believe in feeding up to the last day and reject all claims of the contrary as hyperbolic and unevidentiary jargon.
This is all very broad and not too specific, I need to generalize to demonstrate various aspects of a quick feed.
More often than not, calcium will help soil at all stages - especially if you aim to continue using that soil in the future and believe in the practice of amending with the comprehension of bioaccumulation in mind.
Research shows as much as 500lbs of calcium is lost per acre per season in regular, natural, agricultural farming.
How does this correlate on a per plant scale? It happens.
Plants love calcium like babies love milk.
Old timers from centuries ago referred to cal/mag (pulverized limestone) as "the milk of the land" and because of clay's expansive properties it was not ever possible necessarily (unless you live on a volcanic island like Nicaragua or Papau New Guinea etc) to sufficiently keep up with calcium requirements in the soil to maintain a proper "Loam" soil.
And loam is the highest achievement of soil make no mistake. And because plants eat this quality or apex state of soil must be adequately maintained by an observant and skilled gardener.
Perhaps Cannabis prefers a siltier/sandier loam due to it's origins next to ruminant populated riversides but no plant will ever disfavor a bonafide robust loam of an equal distribution of surplus nutritive matrices e.g. flocculated soil with proper microbial biomass and not dispersed (compacted etc) soil with anaerobic asphyxiating qualities e.g. lacking oxygen, mycelium, protozoa, springtails etc etc etc life.
Arguably, I understand I have read too much and too little all at the same time, I come from a type of philosophy of old hippies so bare with me if you may and go for a short adventure with me, as I am also willing to elaborate on each of these items and/or methods
(In general it is preferred to use Gypsum during flower as Gypsum is Calcium/Sulfur and not Calcium/Magnesium like Lime and
1. the Calcium particle in Gypsum is up to 200x smaller than the Calcium particle in a natural lime source (Calcium/Magnesium) which Gypsum offers too many advantages to list here and
2. The sulfur in the Gypsum will increase the terpenes during flower by as much as 30% or higher.
(many haters will step all over me for daring say what I think or how I feel (most are on ignore by now) and mostly they think this type of knowledge should be kept from people because such esoterism should be earned and not revealed, but here goes I believe rising tide raises all ships...)
That said, being this is the last 2 weeks, if I had to choose, this is just me,
in soil, for those last few weeks I would do an Actively Aerated Compost Tea consisting of [!!!dechlorinated water!!!], organic molasses, organic honey (this one always brings out the broscience crowd with anti-honey fake facts), coconut flour, horsetail grass (found on the roadside where I am, contains excellent amounts of monoatomic Silver and monoatomic Silica), Gypsum, lime, woodchip compost (much lighter amount than one would normally prefer say during veg and early to mid flower), any fruit peels I have come up with the past few days, kelp (even some of the most bleeding edge knowledge guys I know argue against kelp citing Arsenic as their reason but they fail to comprehend the difference in Arsenic vs monoatomic/nascent Arsenic which is what is found in Kelp so there is an intentional monopoly of knowledge so to say that many want to maintain because "industry leader" persona blah blah blah), and often I use advanced nutraceutical type powders designed for humans such as Vitamineral Green, basalt powder (volcanic ash), [many other natural powders I could drown this post out with], coffee grounds, cacao powder, basically any bulk raw and/or natural micronized or atomized food source which the compost tea will extract nutrients from and make available in a liquid form which will aid and not overcome my soil chemistry according to the history of what I know I have or have not done to my soil so this is not something that can just happen for anyone's soil at once although a lesser such footprint could more than likely be universally applied to any soil due to lack of understanding of the relationship of these few ingredients (carbs/calcium/sulfur)e.g. gypsum and molasses if you had not added those two and have failed to sufficiently supply your soil with carbohydrates and calcium and sulfur for example which are at the least three things you definitely want for resinous and fat and healthy buds.
People wonder where terpenes come from, it is a combination of stored memory in the genetics and new materials in the soil for the living plant which are activated or suppressed by epigenetics actively steering the genetics according to it's environment. What this means is if you want certain flavors to express in your plant then it is advisable to, for example, properly compost tea real strawberries, and feed that liquid often to your soil for at least 3 generations of your chosen genetics, to begin a line of heavily strawberry leaning plant. There are numerous scientific articles on this topic in Google Scholar which all corroborate, dilineate, and further expand upon this understanding. Big industry guys I know seek people who undertand this to make them designer soils for their personal headstash grows. People would say "but he just sells regular amazing supersoil." Well, supersoil can be super-super soil and be far too expensive to commercialize.
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Three Berries
Active member
Ash from plants is around 20-30% calcium. So I would guess 20-30% of total dry weight is calcium. Not like you are going to drain it out of the plant in two weeks.
Cal mag is 2-0-0. Do you want to be feeding nitrogen in the last weeks?
I grow in recycled peat based soil, and wonder why things are added at all. Aren’t the soil shelves supposed to be stocked with the needed ions already? Yeah, I add stuff to mine, and still can’t make decent terps.
I grow in recycled peat based soil, and wonder why things are added at all. Aren’t the soil shelves supposed to be stocked with the needed ions already? Yeah, I add stuff to mine, and still can’t make decent terps.
@xet When you experience true cannabis flavors, you'll quit all the flavoring you're doing up till harvest. I would bet you do not have super fluffy, slightly off white ash at the end of a tightly packed bowl. Your molasses sugars are only one piece of your black ash puzzle.
Stick with pure r/o the last 2 weeks for maximum 'cannabis' flavors and complex terpenes.
Stick with pure r/o the last 2 weeks for maximum 'cannabis' flavors and complex terpenes.
X15
Well-known member
I’m curious how giving the plant dead water for two weeks helps flavor?@xet When you experience true cannabis flavors, you'll quit all the flavoring you're doing up till harvest. I would bet you do not have super fluffy, slightly off white ash at the end of a tightly packed bowl. Your molasses sugars are only one piece of your black ash puzzle.
Stick with pure r/o the last 2 weeks for maximum 'cannabis' flavors and complex terpenes.
What is your Dead Water moistenin up when you water?
I am not brewing up elaborate teas with only two weeks left either though. The plant doesn’t care about all that stuff at that age. She’s maturing and slows down, wiser to what’s going on around her.
Two weeks out I’m going to strive to give her the best possible environment. Watering the perfect amount, the amount she’s grown to like. Not using much of anything unless showing signs of something significant. We shouldn’t make assumptions based on our own greed either.*
Some LABS or other bacteria can be very helpful during this time and a great tool!
Cannabis is an accumulator, so in addition to avoiding excess in the root zone, it is important to allow the plant time to convert everything.
Good things take time, and there is more than plenty nutrition left so no worries about starving. Let it burn up all the extra nutes and draw from itself, the terpenes and oils production needs much less than you think.
Good things take time, and there is more than plenty nutrition left so no worries about starving. Let it burn up all the extra nutes and draw from itself, the terpenes and oils production needs much less than you think.
X15
Well-known member
So you are saying you switch to r/o the last two weeks? I’m with ya in not starving, I’m not worried about that running soil.
Is your tap pretty bad there?
R/o or other clean water only. No need for pH adjustments or calmag or whatnot, plain water till the end.
I have only used tap water a few times in 20 years and several locations. R/o water works almost exactly the same in all places I've lived and makes sharing info between growers much easier. Super clean cannabis too.
I have only used tap water a few times in 20 years and several locations. R/o water works almost exactly the same in all places I've lived and makes sharing info between growers much easier. Super clean cannabis too.
X15
Well-known member
Very cool. I am totally with ya. Thank you for that info.
