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Pulling 4kw of heat through an 8"/747cfm
- Thread starter clowntown
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They are covered up to 170F, I have a 6 inch can to boost and it gets hot to the touch ... I just make sure there is nothing near it.
darthvapor
Active member
are you pulling fresh air from outside thru the lights then out the exhaust? If you run your light from outside at night then your pulling cold air and it helps alot. Ive always heard that its good to have 100cfm per light. Ill call vortex monday and find out for you I want to know too.
Albert Hofmann
Member
I run a 10" vortex pulling air through 8 600's and it works great...I assume it will shorten the life a bit but who knows...the thing doesn't even get warm...cool intake air helps.
albert
albert
Are you cooling 4kw with a single 6"? Or a bigger fan, but using the 6" to boost it additionally?slips said:
More or less... I have a 6" Vortex for intake (drawing in fresh outside air), and the 8" that's been split to cool two rows of two inline hoods. So it's not the cool outside air that's being used for cooling the lights directly, but instead pulled into the room, then through the lights... Right now I'm running 2 of 4, and at the exhaust end it's barely warm...darthvapor said:
Running 24/0, temperatures have been a steady 77-81 for the last few weeks (peaked at 83 one warm day, and dropped to 74 one cool night). I'm expecting these numbers to go up slightly running all four, but not by much... I hope...
No need to call Vortex, just curious if anyone had pulled hot air through 'em, and seeing if any early failures resulted from it.
Exactly what I wanted to hear; very welcome news indeed.Albert Hofmann said:
I believe the 10" isn't that much more powerful than a 8" in terms of CFM (in fact I'm led to believe they use the same motor, with the 10" having a larger propeller and a larger mouth) although I'm sure a larger bore definitely makes things smoother and more efficient.
In terms of life, I don't mind replacing the fans every few years if need be (I certainly won't be upset getting less than 10 years out of them), but I just can't afford a failure mid-crop on the first run. Certainly doesn't sound like it'll be the case, but just wanted to make sure.
I think I'll be reconfiguring to pull instead of push, and go by "gut feel" from there.
Thanks!
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the big question would be how your hoods are setup. If it is pulling 4kw from 4 1kw lights, but they are all in paralell, it's different then if they are in series. In other words, 4kw all in a row is going to be tons hotter than 1 line splitting into 4 and then rejoining for the fan pulling.
Anyhow, that's why I got my vortex.
Anyhow, that's why I got my vortex.
I fully understand the merits of airflow efficiency, and how bends decrease it. There are a couple of reasons I went with a single 8" split into two rows instead of two 6"s, or everything inline:
1) All four inline would result in the "last" hood getting the most heat, and of course expelling the most heat back into the room as well
1a) Due to the size and shape of the room, I don't have a linear space where I can run all four inline, unless I use a "U turn" at the end which would make it even less efficient than splitting into two rows, not to mention inheriting the downsides of reason #1 above. In other words, no gain, all pain.
2) Two 6"s, one for each row of 2 hoods, would require more $$ that I don't have (next run when I'm bankrolled a bit better, I may change this to a 2x6" if necessary)
In other words, I'm "working with what I have" and trying to create the best solution out of it, rather than building a new long and narrow room, or buying more equipment that I don't have money for.
And... although I don't have any experience to dictate, my sense seems to indicate that running all four inline will not gain enough in ducting efficiency to overcome the downsides, and at best would be at par with splitting the 8" into two rows of 6"s. But again, just a feel thing, not anything solid drawn from actual experience. Additionally, I don't like the idea of running an 8" fan necked down through 6" ducting and holes for a straight-shot single inline... and I'm not about to replace all my hoods with 8" port models.
1) All four inline would result in the "last" hood getting the most heat, and of course expelling the most heat back into the room as well
1a) Due to the size and shape of the room, I don't have a linear space where I can run all four inline, unless I use a "U turn" at the end which would make it even less efficient than splitting into two rows, not to mention inheriting the downsides of reason #1 above. In other words, no gain, all pain.
2) Two 6"s, one for each row of 2 hoods, would require more $$ that I don't have (next run when I'm bankrolled a bit better, I may change this to a 2x6" if necessary)
In other words, I'm "working with what I have" and trying to create the best solution out of it, rather than building a new long and narrow room, or buying more equipment that I don't have money for.
And... although I don't have any experience to dictate, my sense seems to indicate that running all four inline will not gain enough in ducting efficiency to overcome the downsides, and at best would be at par with splitting the 8" into two rows of 6"s. But again, just a feel thing, not anything solid drawn from actual experience. Additionally, I don't like the idea of running an 8" fan necked down through 6" ducting and holes for a straight-shot single inline... and I'm not about to replace all my hoods with 8" port models.
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clowntown im in the same boat you are... but i will only be running 2 lights at a time (flipflop's) so i think i willl get away with the "U-turn" i have a/c's to cool the room really im just trying to run the a/c's less and in turn pull air out or the garage im working in for a cooler ambient temp in there ( my rooms are built in the garage) if i dont air cool my hood's a/c wont keep up my a/c wont run if i dont move the air out of the garage..... so im trying to get away with both we will see i do have a 6" intake to the garage as well and winter is coming up
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darthvapor
Active member
wow you guys on this site are great. this is what its all about sharing great info so we all become better growers. hope it all works out for you clowntown!!
id be worried about fan failure, maybe want to put your room on a watchguard timer, so if it gets to 110F the lights turn off. pulling IS more efficiant but heat will kill the fan.
I completely forgot the fact that I'll be needing a scrubber soon. 
Looks like I'll be keeping things more or less as-is, pushing through the hoods as I don't want to get two separate scrubbers for the two split inlines, and also don't want to join them together on that end for a single scrubber. I'll likely mount the scrubber directly onto the fan, and pushing that air into the hoods as-is. The way the room is laid out, I'll most likely need to either hang the scrubber on the ceiling vertically somehow, or do a U-turn into the hoods.
Really want to avoid the U-turn, but one disadvantage that I see right away of having the scrubber mounted vertically is that it won't be sucking as much air from near the ceiling where the hot air will be. Sigh...
Last hour and a half I had all four lights on to see how much the temperature rises. So far looking like no more than 2 - 3 degrees, which is about what I expected. As long as the outside temperatures don't get out of hand I should be fine... but I'm also wondering if an A/C will help much with this much airflow.
Looks like I'll be keeping things more or less as-is, pushing through the hoods as I don't want to get two separate scrubbers for the two split inlines, and also don't want to join them together on that end for a single scrubber. I'll likely mount the scrubber directly onto the fan, and pushing that air into the hoods as-is. The way the room is laid out, I'll most likely need to either hang the scrubber on the ceiling vertically somehow, or do a U-turn into the hoods.
Really want to avoid the U-turn, but one disadvantage that I see right away of having the scrubber mounted vertically is that it won't be sucking as much air from near the ceiling where the hot air will be. Sigh...Last hour and a half I had all four lights on to see how much the temperature rises. So far looking like no more than 2 - 3 degrees, which is about what I expected. As long as the outside temperatures don't get out of hand I should be fine... but I'm also wondering if an A/C will help much with this much airflow.
clowntown said:but I'm also wondering if an A/C will help much with this much airflow.
it will suck that cold air right out with the hot air and your a/c will run 24/7 costing you more cash on the monthly bill
i try'd iti don't see how a scrubber is helpful at all with a "sealed" room....
my new spot i have to worry about smell my first time ever and i dont know what im gonna do i have to run a/c the room right now at 10am with no lights even hung yet is 83* i checked it when i got up at 6am* and it was 81* when i went to sleep last night at 1am it was 85*
Kinda what I figured would happen, and was afraid of...00420 said:it will suck that cold air right out with the hot air and your a/c will run 24/7 costing you more cash on the monthly bill
I'm running unsealed for the moment. Next run I will see if insulating, sealing, A/C'ing, and CO2-enriching makes sense...00420 said:
This is also the first time I have to be concerned about smell.00420 said:
Sorry if this is irrevelant but since where talking about fans and cooling, I am planing running 1kw in a dr 150 tent (4 x 4 x 6 1/2 foot tall) I was going to use a 6 inch vortex to air cool the hood and another 6inch vortex on a speed controller for the rest of the tent with a scruber on it..... will this be ok?
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