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producing female seeds for outdoors

Bob_J

Member
last year i did a grow using

lowlife "auto kush"

joint doctors "dieselryder"

i live in the arctic of canada and they were put out in the middle of june. we had frost several times during the season (worst one in 19 years they said on the radio), and it rained alot. never had most issues. long story short i had a few problems. first the seeds didnt germinate very well. i had 40 seeds and only had 15 plants. again from re-reading about auto's next time i will soak them in water.
and they only yielded a few grams each which was my doing.
i started them indoors under 18/6 and grew them in there for about 6 weeks. they never grew much and appeared stunted. outdoors, they never grew much either but showed hairs (on a tiny little seedling!!! :abduct: at harvest they were only 6'' tops, and that was all from the surviving autokush's...dieselryders didnt make it ( i guess they get taller)

without failure you cannot learn so im looking forward to this year :woohoo:

i would like to purchase about 40-50 seeds this go around and make female seeds from them.
those seeds will not be grown in this climate though (2010). it will be more prairie like conditions and i know they will thrive there. not to hot or cold either.

i was thinking of using Colloidal silver to make them get balls. have any of you done this?

the strains im looking at are auto ak, blue streak.

from these seeds if i cross a auto ak x auto ak or auto ak x bluestreak what % will ACTUALLY autoflower. i know theres a alot of variables, etc, etc but i would be happy with say 80%. 25% thats too low. does crossing an auto x auto produce all auto plants?

from reading this forum it sounds like container/hole size can play a huge role in making sure they take off and keep on going. and that can mean 3g per plant or 1/2 - 1 oz per plant? what size do you guys use?
 

Mr. Stinky

Member
CS is a hit or miss thing. you need to use GA or STS. either of which are cheaper than CS if you have to buy the silver.

i use GA. i feel its more "organic" than the chemicals in STS... but to each their own :smoke: both work the same in the end. its also a bit cheaper.

http://www.super-grow.biz/GA3Powder90.jsp

u need at least 100ppm. i use 150ppm, and spray at lights-on for 5 days or so...
 
M

mOOndiCa

my buddy just got sum
Ak47 x Auto Hindu Kush
Automatic AK47 x Auto Blueberry F1
Automatic AK47 x Diesel
and Auto Whiterussian >Feminized
 
B

bottletoke

I just used CS to reverse some autoflowers i have been working with, i sprayed the day they showed sex, 20 days later male balls were developing.
 

snork

New member
sts is sodiumsthiosulphate..
I'd say silverthiosulfate.

You buy silver nitrate and sodiumthiosulfate and mix them in purified water (aquadest).
You get silverthiosulfate solution. (forget about the sodium nitrate also in the solution :D )

All of that is pretty cheap and rather easy to get, and unused stuff over here you can dispose at photography shops; people use it to develop photographs (oldschool, not digital - sodiumTS ="fixation salt")
 

hoosierdaddy

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
In the US we get distilled water from the grocery store for about $1 gal.

In the US, we can't purchase sodiumthiosulfate and silver nitrate together, or we have to fill out a DEA form. Purchase them separately to avoid flags. LEO is on to STS.

STS should be used just prior to, and at the beginning of, flowering before pistols show.
Doing it that way will also deter you from smoking the treated plant. Do NOT smoke the STS forced donor plant. Collect the pollen and throw the plant away. Don't use it for oil or anything at all.

My plan for my auto S1's, is to treat a single femanized plant when it is about 2 wks old, and hopefully there will be stamen happening at about the 2-3 week mark, when autos start to flower. I plan to collect the pollen and store it. I will then start the group of femmed autos and pollinate them after they have produced a fair amount of pistols.
I may actually be creating s2's using this method with femmed autos. (shrug)
 

McSnappler

Lurk.
Veteran
I've just been donated some Diesel Ryder beans, and have got the first ten in soak. I'm planning to reverse the first female to show, and keep her/him with the next fastest female. My main aim is to get enough femmed auto seeds to bless my friends with later this summer!
 

McSnappler

Lurk.
Veteran
if your using sts, and your waiting to see a pre-flower i'd suggest giving it two applications....

when i did it the way you've suggested it began flowering as a female, then the calyxs turned into pollen sacks, it threw out a lot of bananas but i'm not sure whether any pollen has been released from them....

I was thinking of using CS to be honest. I know there are polarised opinions on which method to use, but I guess I feel most comfortable with the process of creating the CS.. I don't have to go out of my way, or source anything special.. just some silver wire (for next to nothing), and some crocodile clips!

I've already got a good amount of DR beans, so I'm not too worried if I screw up one or two in this first ten. I guess from your experience it would be better to spray very early, before any preflowers show.. only problem being, how do you know if you've reversed a female, or just got a male from seed?

I guess I'm hopeful that if I watch closely I can spray within hours of them showing sex..
Open to any suggestions on tactics really!
 
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