Problems with Green Crack Auto

[PuffPuff1900]

I am a first time grower. I am currently growing green crack auto in hydroponics with a 24/0 light schedule and I have run into quite a few problems. In mid veg I had some problems with calmag deficiencies but was able to sort it out. After that she did great until first week of flower. She is now showing what seems like every single deficiency and her leaves are very droopy. I am currently in week 3 of flower (week 7 of her lifespan.) I noticed some darkening of her roots and a bit of slime in week 4 of veg which I assume is some root rot. I have been adding 3% H2O2 to the res with each weekly res change. I am using flora series 3 part nutrient solution following the light feed. She is currently drinking water, but not eating. PPM is rising, water level is falling and pH is rising. Please let me know what you think I can do to help.

These are her readings as of the morning. I added some pH down.
PPM 904
pH 6.3
Res temp. 71.6

This was her weekly feed on this previous thursday
16.1mL Mirco
16.1mL Gro
23.1 mL Bloom
18 mL CalMag
10 teaspoons H2O2

 

[CosmicGiggle]

.......... please tell us about your light source and wattage, it could possibly help!

 

[PuffPuff1900]

SpiderFarmer sf2000 at 75%

 

[CosmicGiggle]

Well sad to say, I don't do LED's, hydro or auto's but someone who does will be along shortly to help!

 

[tobedetermined]

I only grew in a udwc for 1 ½ grows - so my experience is limited. The roots are obviously your problem. Until they are clean & bright again, the plants will suffer. A water temp over 70 is just too high so that is where the nasty is coming from. Start adding frozen plastic bottles to get the temps down and change the water as often as you can. I am sure that others will chime in with more suggestions.

Ultimately, I switched to coco (mid-grow btw) because I came to realize that a chiller and RO water are pretty much mandatory to keep a really stable water culture.

Good luck.

 

[FletchF.Fletch]

What size is the reservoir? What mixing rate per gallon are you using? Ph is too high for Hydro.

 

[negative37dBA]

Just to be clear. I do grow in hydro only, for 2 years now, I should have some good ideas for you.
Water temp is crucial...no matter who tells you anything above 68 is trouble...big trouble. Abandon any thought of water bottles or ice or any cooling method other than a CHILLER. It is the only way forward when dealing with water heat. Just spend the money and you will not have to worry about water temps again. Ware temps that are high do many bad things. Root rot, aka pythium can thrive. Lower dissolved oxygen levels and increased nutrient amounts needed for proper plant growth.
Keep your water chiller set at 66-68 and your golden. Change the water every week to 10 days....what type or system are you in? 900 ppm is 1.8 EC...I run in RDWC and I have NEVER went above 1.4 to 1.6 ec with green healthy photo period plants. These are 5 to 6 foot monsters with 25 heads minimum...gives you a idea of size for that level of nutes.
Water source is key. I use r/o water with a recirculating uv filter. The cleanest I can start with...no additives, no nasties. I use hydroguard as my water stabilizer if you will. 2ml per gallon and good to go.
Whats your air like....more is better. I have a 5 container system that is 32 gallons total. I use 2 air pumps with 4x2 stones on them. 1 in every bucket and 2 in the epicenter.
Good temps and good water quality are 2 keys I have found to the success of hydro. You 6.3 Ph is slightly higher than I run in flower...6.2 is my Ph setting of choice for flower.
Have a great day all. Peace, negative.

 

[Guest]

There's a guy called heisenberg who invented heisenberg tea which is a brewed microbe tea who swears it'll fix root rot. There's plenty of information on how to brew this on the web, or you get a pack of real growers recharge which is more or less the same thing.

 

[The_Skunkist]

If you want to cut your problems by 50%, start to give plants some rest, what's the benefit of 24/0 light schedule compared to 20/4 or 18/6 ? Saving a timer ? Growing under leds means already much more cal/mag than others light sources. No really need to push the feeding difficulty that much.

When plants had a stress, they like roots stimulator to recover, it works as prozac for plants.

pH should be lil more acid 5.5/5.8 . Temperature seems correct.

In autoflower section you can see Nedank scheduling 24/0 for his autos . ( And the problems he often meets too. )

- ​Killer Mandarine Auto lower bud .

 

[Creeperpark]

Just to be clear. I do grow in hydro only, for 2 years now, I should have some good ideas for you.
Water temp is crucial...no matter who tells you anything above 68 is trouble...big trouble. Abandon any thought of water bottles or ice or any cooling method other than a CHILLER. It is the only way forward when dealing with water heat. Just spend the money and you will not have to worry about water temps again. Ware temps that are high do many bad things. Root rot, aka pythium can thrive. Lower dissolved oxygen levels and increased nutrient amounts needed for proper plant growth.
Keep your water chiller set at 66-68 and your golden. Change the water every week to 10 days....what type or system are you in? 900 ppm is 1.8 EC...I run in RDWC and I have NEVER went above 1.4 to 1.6 ec with green healthy photo period plants. These are 5 to 6 foot monsters with 25 heads minimum...gives you a idea of size for that level of nutes.
Water source is key. I use r/o water with a recirculating uv filter. The cleanest I can start with...no additives, no nasties. I use hydroguard as my water stabilizer if you will. 2ml per gallon and good to go.
Whats your air like....more is better. I have a 5 container system that is 32 gallons total. I use 2 air pumps with 4x2 stones on them. 1 in every bucket and 2 in the epicenter.
Good temps and good water quality are 2 keys I have found to the success of hydro. You 6.3 Ph is slightly higher than I run in flower...6.2 is my Ph setting of choice for flower.
Have a great day all. Peace, negative.

Super information Thank you.

 

[Naturally Wired]

As a first time grower, doing hydro right away is brave.
And then 24/0 light with automatic plants very self-confidently.
I believe the light phase is problematic.
I've heard many times that the plants also need the dark phase.
Unfortunately I can't give you any tips so that you can grow the 24/0 successfully.
They say yes, if ALL three parameters are correct, i.e. grow medium, light and air, then you can add another parameter .. in your case then the 24/0 ...
Anyway ... if I were you I would try 18/4 ...

 

[Naturally Wired]

Do you only have one plant in the room?
Remember that the humidity is also important .. It looks very empty in the box, which means that the humidity is worse than with more plants.

 

[St. Phatty]

Green Crack was one of my favorites when I got some seeds from the Tude in 2015 ish.

 

[LostTribe]

New growers, this is why you dont do DWC. You will never get rid of pythium once its overtaken your system.

It laughs at h202.

SM90 and DM Zone which are no longer available might, might help some but once root rot is there, stink, slime and brown mess it might be time to cull and start over with a beginner soil medium instead of a "high tech hydro experiment". It has taken me over 20 years to be able to confidently grow in old school dutch ebb style buckets but I would not try to run dwc or rdwc ever again.

Start out with some promix or soil and learn from there.