Problem with plants: dust forming on leaves

[beachstoned]

My plants have been quite entertaining so far...They are grand daddy purple (right) and romulan (left) in my photos. They have gone untended to for a few days while i try to schedule the drip cycle similar to the lighting. Although when i came back to them they seemed starved and asking for nutrients so i have been working at that. They also had some sort of dust forming on most of the leaves, it is not kief and looks somewhat harmful, please offer suggestions off of what i could photograph recently.

 

[g13]

Can't really tell from the pics...But may be gray mold ..But you can get some spray. Called Serinade from wallmart that will help..I have used it while budding. Just quit spraying about 2 or 3 weeks before harvest..g13

 

[bluebublelove]

I can't really tell well with your pictures...maybe right when the light goes out get a few with a flash on....but from the last picture and what youve described I presume it could be powdery mildew.

 

[beachstoned]

more pictures

more pictures

more pictures of the problem...

 

[mean mr.mustard]

Dude, it looks like you have powdery mildew! Spray the spots with h202 stat, post haste, and ASAP.... that shit takes a while to get rid of if it gets established.

 

[MTF-Sandman]

Honestly, first thing you need to do is address the issue that caused you to get PM. What are the temps, RH% and ventilation?

IMO, the easiest way to get rid of PM is to remove ALL affected foliage and thoroughly stray the rest of the plant with an antifungal or run a sulfur burner in there. Treating the symptoms won't cure it if there's an ideal environment for it's growth.

 

[MynameStitch]

sandman how you been man! long time no see

Hey man i need some pictures of powdery mildew for my book

do you mind me using themfor my book?
your handle will be as the contributer if you like....

 

[g13]

get some serenade ..Protect Your Plants From Disease Causing Pathogens!
100% OMRI Approved for organic gardening, Serenade is made of the same effective ingredients used by 1000s of commercial growers in the greenhouse and gardens. Controls bacterial spot, powdery mildew, rust, gray mold, leaf blight, scab just to name a few. Ideal for use indoors and out on all edible and non edible flowers, vegetables, herbs and ornamentals.

Certified organic by OMRI and EPA/USDA National Organic Program, Serenade offers growers the luxury of application without weather or timing restrictions and there are no phyto-toxicity issues that can harm your valuable plants under strong sun or indoor lights. In fact, Serenade is so safe, you can pick & eat fruits / vegetables the same day you apply it!

Serenade controls the following;
Anthracnose
Bacteria
Bacterial leaf blight
Bacterial speck
Bacterial spot
Black mold
Black root rot/Black crown rot
Black spot of rose
Botrytis
Downey mildew
Early blight
Fire blight
Gray mold
Late blight
Leaf spots and rust
Pin rot
Powdery mildew
Scab
Walnut blight
To apply, simply spray on leaves and shoots to provide complete coverage. Best results will be had be pre-treating plants before signs of disease set it and then every week to protect newly formed foliage ..hope this helps ya it did me..g13

 

[kokua]

Can anyone tell us the how copper based fungicides differ from sulfer based? Is one superior to the other?


I've been please with Mildew Cure from Safer Grow.

Formerly known as GC-3. 100% certified organic. Mildew Cure is a natural fungicide that provides excellent control of powdery mildew on edible crops. It is safe, effective, long lasting and offers little chance for disease resistance build-up. Derived from garlic extracts and other essential oils.

 

[kokua]

and how is serenade different than hydrogaurd? I've already got hydrogaurd in the cupboard...

 

[Guest]

yup, powdery mildew..

grab a nice dehimidifier, I need to run it in the summertime too..
my 50 pint dehum. unit gives me 2 gallons a day of distilled water to use in my system, and has dropped my RH from 80+% to any range I need

im not farmiliar with the products above, i use to treat PM with baking soda foliar fed on my plants.. but since ive spent the $ on the dehumid., i havent needed anything else

 

[beachstoned]

yeah dude go ahead and use them, i would have better shots but i cut down the leaves and added serenade already...

 

[Blackmelo]

dehumidifier would sort the porblem but better ventilation would also get rid of it and is considerably cheaper in unit cost and electricity cost.

Everyone should be aware of the humidity in their growroom even if they don't decide to get an electricity gobbling dehumidifier. 2 dollar hygrometer does the trick. Humidity should never go above 70% or plant processes slow down.
High humidity can usually easily be lowered by venting the room and dehumidifiers are only necessary in climates where the humidity is very very high outside already so that humidity cannot be lowered.

General rule of thumb is to have an extractor fan that can vent the volume of your room per minute but if you suspect you will suffer from high heat issues, mold, high humidity or insect problems get one that can extract 3 times the volume per minute.

Set up the extractor fan to blow air out of the growroom, ideally at the top where heat rises to and have a passive intake hole somewhere near the floor. This creates a good airflow which mold dislikes and also creates a slight negative pressure in the grow room which fungus gnats really dislike.

 

[Chamba]

good advice above!

it looks like PM..my tomatoes get it first, then if the weather stays overcast, some of the ganj gets it too

mold prevention is all about maintaining low humidity and creating good air-flow around the plants...

since you are already well into flowering I wouldn't spray any type of chemical on my plants (that would be madness...unless, of course you are a cash-cropper and like the rest of most them don't give a shit and intend to sell it all)...remove all the badly affected leaves

and then do as longdivision suggests

yup, powdery mildew..

grab a nice dehimidifier, I need to run it in the summertime too..
my 50 pint dehum. unit gives me 2 gallons a day of distilled water to use in my system, and has dropped my RH from 80+% to any range I need

im not farmiliar with the products above, i use to treat PM with baking soda foliar fed on my plants.. but since ive spent the $ on the dehumid., i havent needed anything else

whatever you do ..do it now, not in an hour as PM can multiply overnight and wreck a crop..get yourself a digital RH meter..keep things dry..which is what you should be doing in flowering as it helps most strains resin up better

when growing outdoors, luck with the weather plays a part too.....but some growers say that mold is natures way of telling that grower he's growing them too close, too sheltered or is growing the wrong strain for that area..or it's just a shitty year.

 

[kokua]

my RH rarely exceeds 50%...my PM was introduced with plant material. It is sticking around in the low RH wich is suprising to me. I refresh the air in my room 2.5 times per minute, and I also have excellent circulation within the room, yet the pm keeps coming back. It keeps attacking the same cultivars...and leaves others alone.

 

[Keefhead]

If you have PM, how long should you do a sulfur burn for? The room is 9x12, 8ft ceilings, and closed off. I just spotted the PM, but its there.