* Powdery Mildew (Outdoors) Advice Needed *

[Reakwon87]

I have been blessed with White Powdery Mildew, Yay . . NOT !!!

Could really use some help as i am getting frustrated. I have been hitting them weekly with Milk, (1:9) and Sodium Bicarbonate foliar sprays, intermittently. But, just when i think i have got ahead of things, i walk around to the backside, or move a couple of larger fan leaves, and its back, with a vengeance.

Fun Stuff . .

I am trying to find some info (application rate and ratio) on a Potassium Silicate foliar spray. I have CannaMax Potassium Silicate (approx. 50% PS) on hand.

I also have on hand: Garden Sulphur (92%), which i have yet to use (hesitant), Seaweed / Algae Extract, (which i would spray weekly with, while they were still in Veg). 3% Hydrogen Peroxide, and probably some other crap, which i know i am forgetting.

I would like to stick with what i have, instead of heading into town, but if there is something that someone highly reccommends (that WILL work, hands down) and is available up here in Buttf@ck Nowhere, Canada. Then i guess i will make the trip (Online ordering is out of the question, atm).

I would really like to figure out a foliar mixture ratio for the Potassium Silicate, as i have known many people have had success using it to raise the pH on the leaves surface, etc. making the enviroment as inhospitable as possible, and maybe even a little bit more difficult for the WPM to take foot. CannaMax reccommends a mix ratio of 1/4mL per Liter, for general hydroponic applications (approx. 1mL/Gal.). I am thinking MAYBE 1/4 - 1/8 the recommended mixture would be suitable for foliar applications, keeping it around 120ppm in R/O water (approx. 1/4mL per Gal.).

If anyone has any experience, or expertise they could throw my way, please do. I am not interested in mights, maybes, or hearsay . . I am not going to risk my lively hood on pure conjecture (this time, lol) . . Real world experience would be GREATLY appreciated. Not trying to sound like an @sshole, even if i sometimes do. I just see to many young guys and newbie newbs now a days, betting the farm on something, that someone, might or might not have read in last months Hightimes Magazine, that they found under their friends, uncle's, step-brothers, bed, or some $hit . .

Thanks for your time, and any words of wisdom will be appreciated . .

Cheers

 

[_tessarecting]

People use this product called green cure, its potassium bicarbonate in solution at pH 11, if you have a meter it's very DIY

 

[Vanilla Phoenix]

Eagle 20W....ftw! Lol. Only if they're not in flowering though. I had PM indoors for years. Used to hold it back with DM Zone/Saturator combo. Then read about Eagle....sprayed vegging plants once before flower....haven't seen PM in over a year! Only sprayed plants ONE time total, not every veg period. Kinda sucked to buy the whole bottle for just a few milliliters! Lmao. Shit works super great, but some ppl say it's poison...yada yada.

 

[Tynehead Tom]

I'm up in Cariboo country, so get same products as van isle.
Get some Natria , it's a blue green bottle, made by bayer. It's natural, a bacteria that kills powdery mildew and prevents re attack. It works for stem rot too.... works like a hot damn man. I'm up here at 3000 feet battling very hostile conditions right now and the Natria is keeping my plants happy.
It's former name was Serenade.
reapply each week. It has not had any negative affect on my buds or leaves and is saving my plants right now let me tell ya


it doesn't smell nice, kinda like wine that's gone sour but that smell disappates after few days. It is a colonizing bacteria , spray your stems and leaves, stems especially. For me , in my shitty ass little greenhouse, I noticed the powdery mildew here n there in it's infancy and sprayed with milk spray..... next thing that happened was stem rot at the lower nodes of one variety and I tore those 3 out. Then it hit my other plants and I just lost it LOL
sprayed with all I had here and was losing the battle. Found out about serenade and that it's now called Natria.... use it man it works.
I also sprayed 5 , 4 foot tall plants that I took indoors to finish under lights and they had spots of the mildew and stem rot "just" showing. Sprayed those once with the natria 2 weeks ago now and no evidence of molds or mildews and all the yellowed leaves greened right back up.

 

[coldcanna]

You mentioned your growing outdoors so I'm going to assume your in mid to late flower depending on where you live. I've had late flower PM and Green Cure works great up until harvest. If your earlier on I'd hit it with Green Cure to knock back the infections then wait a couple days and start rotating in your Biologicals like the posts above say. Serenade is popular and you can spray throughout flower, those biologicals take a little time to colonize though so that's why they are better preventative measure than reactionary.

 

[lostenspace]

Agreed with above, knock down with H2O2 (Oxidate) then hit with Serenade to build up leaf colony every 5-7days. I had one plant out of 4 infected and started treatment today. It was successful last year in Oregon.
good luck and good growing

 

[Loc Dog]

I am looking for something that can be used in late flower. Have copper fungicide, Serenade, and Daconil. Could have sworn I had something called PM wash, but can not find it.

 

[zachrockbadenof]

we dealt with PM n mold every year when we planted outdoors, n nothing helped.. spraying milk,green cure, asprins...etc..etc never helped...imo u are adding moisture to a moisture problem... hence no more outdoor growing...

 

[growingcrazy]

I have been using compost teas and lacto bacilli solely once flowers form. I spray with a neem/garlic oil solution weekly prior to flower set. This is my first year in a greenhouse on the coast, so far so good!

 

[Dankwolf]

I have only been able to control pm at best always comes back after 5 days Exactly . i pulled arecent harvest useing 1/4 cup 3 % hydrogen peroxide per gallon of water in pump sprayer . spraying every 3 days all the way into week 8 . it affected smell of smoke but hardly anything else. I tried milk of all kinds at many dif schedules. i tried all kinds of high ph treatments . i tried sulfer burners/sprays . and comes back in 5 days every time . tried heat/ humidity treatments. I adjusted room environment 10 ways to sunday . still came back in 5 days . i have came to the conclusion that soon as a plant has it there is nothing you can do but control it. The spores are always going to be around especialy sept-oct so if your environment has the right conditions they will catch it and then your fucked . i cleand room top to bottom with bleach/ peroxide/soap/sulfer/ph water none helped past 5 days . i finally pulled all plants effected some where at 8 weeks flower some at 2 weeks flower . then i took my hole set up down cleand with peroxside and rebiult room put new plant in and have had no problems sence . dont even leave one infected plant around or it will spread . note some strain s are pron to it . in my 14+ years it seems that kushs tend to not do well with pm . sorry but thats how i overcame pm . i wont try to salvege again . wasted months fighting to keep plants and things running and was not worth it at all . if i would have just chucked all infected plant and cleaned in the beginning i would have been much better off . just my experiance i feel for anyone battling pm it is no joke . makes mites seem like a walk in the park.

 

[Dankwolf]

Proper venting plays a huge roll in the spread of it . pull air low in room/greenhouse vent from top. That way all spores get pulled away and out . a cross wind helps spread spores to the rest of the plant. I would shoot for a vertical air colume moving strait up and out . i incorporated it in to My new design . if you pull from one side to the other you are risking spreading anything one plant gets to the other . hope this helped

 

[jidoka]

Kombucha...the acidity kills the mold and then the biology populates the leaf leaving less room for new PM

If you spray ksil you can do a one time 7 grams per gallon agsil spray. If you spray more than once cut the rest back to 0.7 grams per gallon

I know you said nothing you dont have but next yr get you some micro 5000 and pz 1000 to keep good microbal population up...become a proud member of the woo tainio crew

Get a sap pH meter and keep it around 6.4. This is the actual root cause of your problem...not enough base cations in the plant and probably too much no3 and/or k

 

[Dankwolf]

I could not find it here but maybe "jms stylet oil" its what the wine/grape industry is useing now .

 

[DG greener]

Agree eagle 20

 

[kalopatchkid]

I could not find it here but maybe "jms stylet oil" its what the wine/grape industry is useing now .

Stylet Oil works pretty good but I try not to use it in flower as it is a petroleum product even though it is OMRI. Some people still do and say it doesnt affect taste...but those kinds of claims are usually anecdotal at best. One application lasts at least 2 weeks.

 

[Loc Dog]

Actually what I have must be some other mold problem. Tops just turn brown and die. Just chopped out most of the bad spots, and found one bud with actual PM (white and fuzzy). I only have about 10 days left on this grow. Will be proactive on the tent that is at 3 weeks.

 

[Slipnot]

Kombucha...the acidity kills the mold and then the biology populates the leaf leaving less room for new PM

If you spray ksil you can do a one time 7 grams per gallon agsil spray. If you spray more than once cut the rest back to 0.7 grams per gallon

I know you said nothing you dont have but next yr get you some micro 5000 and pz 1000 to keep good microbal population up...become a proud member of the woo tainio crew

Get a sap pH meter and keep it around 6.4. This is the actual root cause of your problem...not enough base cations in the plant and probably too much no3 and/or k

lol its almost impossible to keep micro life growing on a leaf when applied its another sales gimmic
For this to work, the sprayed on microbes would need to colonize the leaves (ie live and breed on the leaves). This requires that the new environment, ie the leaf surface, has enough food for them and the oxygen levels are right for them.

Clearly, the oxygen levels would be high and so you can expect that anaerobic microbes would die out quickly. Anaerobic tea just won’t work.

The native microbes on plant surfaces are not well understood

Now to understand powdery mildew involves Genetic mapping if you encounter this disease cause that is what it is ,, and its Gene sequenced or some strains just plain have it while others no matter what you do never gets it .
Why is that ????

You have to ask your self what caused the issue and why the plant did not defend it self from the disease

1 word your plant was really not healthy to begin with its true a unhealthy plant is susceptible to attacks ..

So how do you correct this ??? You don't you can't it a disease that once takes hold will always show its ugly face only way to rid it,
Is cull in consequence find another strain

All this stuff people are adding is only slowing the process its not killing it ..
Sulfur burners are pretty much only thing that has a good success rate of riding the problem but chances are it will indeed show its ugly face if clones are taken etc..

Only true way of ridding it is rid the strain and look for another strain that will not have it, re think your soil being its a fungi maybe some amendment in your regime has the spores

A true good sterilized prior soil then inhibit mirobes will in fact detour the issue
I always stress when making a living soil you need to sterilize it prior then using a tea to re populate microbes its the only true way of knowing your not going to haves issues ..

Sure its another pain in the ass sterilizing soil but at the end, your better off

PS 9 degree C and 93 humidity an not worried on dam bit of mold or mildew why because soil and plant is 100 percent healthy

 

[kalopatchkid]

lol its almost impossible to keep micro life growing on a leaf when applied its another sales gimmic
For this to work, the sprayed on microbes would need to colonize the leaves (ie live and breed on the leaves). This requires that the new environment, ie the leaf surface, has enough food for them and the oxygen levels are right for them.

Clearly, the oxygen levels would be high and so you can expect that anaerobic microbes would die out quickly. Anaerobic tea just won’t work.

Although I havent found kombucha to be effective in treating PM I have to point out that Kombucha is both aerobic and anaerobic.

It's a symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast brewed in open vessel, so its not entirely anaerobic. I'm guessing it's acidity has more to do with its supposed ability to treat PM than the microbes do. It basically turns to vinegar if you let it ferment long enough.

 

[Slipnot]

Although I havent found kombucha to be effective in treating PM I have to point out that Kombucha is both aerobic and anaerobic.

It's a symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast brewed in open vessel, so its not entirely anaerobic. I'm guessing it's acidity has more to do with its supposed ability to treat PM than the microbes do. It basically turns to vinegar if you let it ferment long enough.

Like anything else and the latest imortal combat series this kombatchi bust be good hell ancient chinese brew this stuff up

Because it came from a living plant it has to be safe right ?? well studies are showing this is not the case  most all foods we eat are have natural toxins in them
Al i am trying to say is sure do your best to control the disease Cause your really truly not going to get rid of it ..

try your best to recover your issue with some yield once harvested find a new strain save your self the headache

dismantle your grow room and sterilize everything and hope for the best next round with a different strain

Rules to live by quarantine any new clones or plants you have been given grow them seperate from your exsisting room once you determine its disease free then by all means put it in with your plants ,,,

If your looking for a strain google it for issues mold powdery mildew etc again save your self the headache

 

[slownickel]

Manganese, copper and calcium deficiencies along with excess nitrogen are the nutritional issues tied to PM. Just sayin.... Silica (horsetail or some other forms) also work.