powder mildew in greenhouse

[Noonin NorCal]

I have a few plants that have PM in a greenhouse, I've been burning sulfur and it seems like its not slowing down. I have some actinovate, was wondering how i should apply it as a spray? should i take every leaf off that has pm on it already? I stripped lots of leafs off already, i just don't wanna take all the foliage off the plant. And if anyone has sprayed Actinovate whats the parts per gallon? Thank you

 

[Noonin NorCal]

Anybody? i could sure use some knowledge and help. I have a outdoor plant that also has some pm on it. Not as bad as the Greenhouse. The outdoor plants is probably 3 weeks out same as the GH

 

[z-ro]

its not what you want to hear but, if you have three weeks left and already have visible and worsening pm you are pretty screwed, especially in the gh. in three weeks time every leaf will be fully coated. actinovate is a preventative. you're going to be looking at sodium bicarbonate/ baking soda or green clean etc. some people are doing plain water phd to 9.0 best of luck

 

[corky1968]

Try this.

powdery mildew treatment

 

[Noonin NorCal]

thanks for the replies. what about a hydrogen peroxide mix to spray. Instead of dipping it into the solution

 

[Noonin NorCal]

its not what you want to hear but, if you have three weeks left and already have visible and worsening pm you are pretty screwed, especially in the gh. in three weeks time every leaf will be fully coated. actinovate is a preventative. you're going to be looking at sodium bicarbonate/ baking soda or green clean etc. some people are doing plain water phd to 9.0 best of luck

We have green cure on hand as well as Actinovate and Nuke Em. the shelf life on the Nuke Em is a year old

 

[GastroGrower]

The hydrogen peroxide might help momentarily. Any time I've seen PM on any of my flowering plants I do a hydrogen peroxide wash right after harvest and it washes anything remaining off the leaves. If it's in the buds however it won't really help.

 

[Noonin NorCal]

The hydrogen peroxide might help momentarily. Any time I've seen PM on any of my flowering plants I do a hydrogen peroxide wash right after harvest and it washes anything remaining off the leaves. If it's in the buds however it won't really help.

Its pretty much getting there on one plant. What rate/solution would you do as a spray? I have a atomizer that ill be spraying with

 

[GastroGrower]

Its pretty much getting there on one plant. What rate/solution would you do as a spray? I have a atomizer that ill be spraying with

1 part hydrogen peroxide, 3 parts water. You will definitely see some serious burning if you spray with greencure or anything heavy like that.

 

[cyat]

Careful with nuke em.. 1 oz a gal max, better for bugs than pm..
Peroxide and water will help but it won't go away

 

[GastroGrower]

Cyat is right. The sad fact I've had to accept in the past is that if you see any PM on a plant, the only solution is to immediately remove it from your garden for the sake of the rest of your plants. You'll never remove it systemically from the plant

 

[who dat is]

I would treat the worst plants or at least the ons with visible signs of PM with the Green Cure as per its instructions. In my experience it only lasts a week before the PM pops up again as it operates by killing the PM by raising the surface pH of the leaf. After that I would spray all plants with Actinovate with at least a 3 day waiting period after applying the green cure to give the leaves a chance to have their surface pH drop back down more towards normal. After that let the plants coast to harvest. In the mean time do you have adequate airflower not only into and out of the garden but also a good amount of air moving around inside so that there aren't any "dead spots" so to speak. Have you noticed any correlation with sickly plants base on location in the greenhouse itself or is it more strain specific, or no apparent correlation with anything at all?

 

[Noonin NorCal]

I would treat the worst plants or at least the ons with visible signs of PM with the Green Cure as per its instructions. In my experience it only lasts a week before the PM pops up again as it operates by killing the PM by raising the surface pH of the leaf. After that I would spray all plants with Actinovate with at least a 3 day waiting period after applying the green cure to give the leaves a chance to have their surface pH drop back down more towards normal. After that let the plants coast to harvest. In the mean time do you have adequate airflower not only into and out of the garden but also a good amount of air moving around inside so that there aren't any "dead spots" so to speak. Have you noticed any correlation with sickly plants base on location in the greenhouse itself or is it more strain specific, or no apparent correlation with anything at all?

The GH has a 7 mil woven fiberglass roof i believe and all around underneath that it its wrapped with mosquito netting. Roof was for the rain and the netting was to eliminate the caterpillar problem that we've had the last few seasons. Haven't found one yet in there but there is PM It seems humid during days in there, there are a couple fans but just recently put them out there. It seem like it was stagnant air before placing fans. The plastic also had condensation on it in the mornings, so I've been running the dehu. I have one plant on the very end i guess that gets the best circulation there is no PM knock on wood. Strains are Sour Bubble and the one without the PM is Phantom which is Cherry Pie X GDP. all from seed. I think it happened cause of lack of airflow and high humidity at night. Im scared to use fans won't the spores spread even more? One of the fans i just have it pointed straight up in the air not oscillating

The plant that isn't infected is on the very end, thinking cause it has better circulation

 

[Noonin NorCal]

*Woven greenhouse plastic/film

 

[Noonin NorCal]

I would treat the worst plants or at least the ons with visible signs of PM with the Green Cure as per its instructions. In my experience it only lasts a week before the PM pops up again as it operates by killing the PM by raising the surface pH of the leaf. After that I would spray all plants with Actinovate with at least a 3 day waiting period after applying the green cure to give the leaves a chance to have their surface pH drop back down more towards normal. After that let the plants coast to harvest. In the mean time do you have adequate airflower not only into and out of the garden but also a good amount of air moving around inside so that there aren't any "dead spots" so to speak. Have you noticed any correlation with sickly plants base on location in the greenhouse itself or is it more strain specific, or no apparent correlation with anything at all?

What rate of Green Cure should i go with 1 or 2 tablespoons per gallon? also should i use a wetting agent? I have SM-90 or maybe a drop of dish soap? Thanks again for the help

 

[Noonin NorCal]

i have never ph'd my water when i spray, my tap water i think is around 7-7.2. Should i correct that overtime i spray to around 6?

 

[Noonin NorCal]

*correct it and make it at or around 6?

 

[emeraldcityog]

Look up a product named Regalia. It works different than any other fungicide in that it stimulates the plants own genetic immune response to fight molds. It's relatively cheap, $80/gallon= 100 gallon foliar and organic. Interestingly, its made from knotweed extract. I'm hearing amazing things. Post if it helps. Cheers

 

[who dat is]

I'm thinking that if plants already have PM they already have PM, right? It's a systemic ailment for the plant and the spores are already floating around freely in the environment. I would get more air circulating in there to make sure it's not stagnant. I wouldn't worry about pHing your water since it's already nuetral and the greencure will bump it up anyways. You don't need any wetting agent with the greencure as it already has one in there. I don't know what the application rates are off the top of my head but just go with what is on the label. Greencure can and probably will burn your pistils some and maybe the tips of your fan leaves but that's better than having PM all over them.

What's up on some pictures too? I think that would help put things into perspective.

 

[_tessarecting]

No need to pH greencure...the potassium bicarbonate raises the pH to 11 which kills the fungus at the surface level