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powder mildew in flower

hye community im two weeks into flower and noticed a few spores on some lower leaves....i sprayed every three days with serenade when they were yopung but havent in a couple weeks....im going to do a lot of clean up trimming tonight of the lower branches and was wondering if serenade can be used in flower? and does it matter if its sprayed on the bud sites? my issue isnt the humidity its just the heat at times taht brings it out.....that being said waht are your ideas and ti[ps on what to do with pm in flower
 

Moldy Dreads

Active member
Veteran
I've used Serenade before, never again. It stinks and makes the buds taste bad and doesn't even combat it really, just keeps it kinda under control. PM makes buds taste weird too, so it's a lame ass infection really. Wipe manually daily with wet sponge and remove bad infected leaves. Sorry to hear that, PM is usually a combo. of infected clones + wet condition ie. humidity..

I hate neem and Serenade smell, they reek
 
C

coxswain

Silverback sweared by using greencure. Even in flower.

Read this thread for more info. It's important to use it at half strength to keep pistils healthy.

Also ... if you can get potasium bicarbonate or less effective sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) you'll be fine in flowering.
 

Maj.PotHead

End Cannibis Prohibition Now Realize Legalize !!
Mentor
Veteran
sulfur burner for sealed CO2 rooms and fans running 24/7 365 days a yr in the flower chamber in not sealed room, and lower RH should prevent PM. removing the lowers can help also but my suggestion of fans on 24/7 helps alot
 

Natagonnaworrie

If you love life, don't waste time. For time is wh
Veteran
i know it seems like a PIA, but just get the sulfer burner. u will not regret it. i held off as long a possible and now i wish i had all the time back i wasted using anything else.

good luck man.
 

pinecone

Sativa Tamer
Veteran
From Chimera

Powdery Mildew (PM) is a systemic problem coming from within an infected plant. What you are seeing (the white powderey looking substance) on the leaves is the flowering body of the fungus- the hyphae live within the plant. By the time you can visually identify the problem it's already well established within the plant. No external treatment (like sulphur) can fix the problem.

PM proliferates in shaded and low-light areas of gardens where the humidity is raised; obviously countering these grow room conditions will slow the spread but it won't truly eliminate the fugus from the plants.

The same is true for sulphur applications; be it from a sulphur burner or from a solution such as Safer's Defender. Sulphur will prevent the growth of PM where it is present on the leaf, but the PM still exists within the plant.... not to mention sulphur applications negatively affect the taste of the final product; it seems to concentrate on the resins and an experienced or trained palate will always be able to tell if there was sulphur applied to the plants from how the hash smokes. I don't recommend using sulphur on vegging for flower or flowering plants

There is a product called Meltatox that is designed for application on ornamentals which gets into the plant and actually kills the PM. You should not spray this on plants that are going to be put into flower, or are in flowering. However, IMO it can safely be used to treat your veg state plants to eliminate the PM from your stock. I would suggest waiting at least 4 weeks before taking clones to be put into a veg/flower cycle.

Of course the MSDS is available online and anyone considering using the product should completely read the label instructions to inform themselves about the factors involved, how to properly spray and what precautions to take, the product half-life, etc before considering using.

It does work IME, and can be used as a part of a integrated approach that not only deals with eliminating all traces of spores from the growroom, but also removing the fungus from the plants themselves. Having either infected plants OR a spore infected growroom will ensure the problem persists as one will infect the other.

I would remove the plants, clean the room with industrial greenhouse cleaner, and use a sulphur burner before putting the plants back in the room. Then separately cut back the mothers and sterilize with Meltatox. If the plants are for consumption I'd then wait a month before getting back on schedule to take clones and veg out for the next crop... any remaining Meltatox in the plants would be negligible.

This product is not for everyone and is not safe to spray on flowering plants for consumption. I only recommend it's use to those that will use it responsibly and make themselves aware of the MSDS information available before choosing to use it.

-Chimera
 

RC_Colas

Well-known member
Veteran
I would suggest increasing your air-flow...lots of fans to circulate the air in your room and help with the moisture. As for spraying, can use diluted Hydrogen Peroxide.

Cheers

RC_Colas
 

krunchbubble

Dear Haters, I Have So Much More For You To Be Mad
Veteran
the hydrogen peroxide works pretty well, sulfur does a decent job. they can be used in flowering. greencure will fry your hairs.
number one cure for powder mildew is eagle 20. and when i say cure, it does that, you wont get it again. but only use it in veg and early flower.
 
C

coxswain

the hydrogen peroxide works pretty well, sulfur does a decent job. they can be used in flowering. greencure will fry your hairs.
number one cure for powder mildew is eagle 20. and when i say cure, it does that, you wont get it again. but only use it in veg and early flower.

You should use it at half the recommended dosage. Then it doesn't "burn" hairs. So I read from the "greencure" thread.
 

Mr.Hades

Member
Milk is very good against powdery mildew... Using a 15% milk to water mix and spraying on the plant every 4-5 days will help keep the mildew down to a minimum. Dont use more milk... Using over 30% milk will cause fungus to grow. And you can use skim milk if youd like aswell.
 

Gunnarguchi

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
i succesfully stopped an PM attack in my greenhouse that was spreading rapidly ( not in flower though) by using a baking soda mixture spray with also added nicotine against spider mites a little veggy oil, rape seed i think or maybe sun flower, and a little tea tree and eucalyptus oil
i also added a fan for better air circulation and added a dehumidifier

so it was a combi cure method so i dont know exactly what part or parts that cured it but it disappeared within a few days
 

Thecoon

Member
Ive had experience with green cure and it has never fried hairs or anything....Its cheap and you can spray it on there a day before harvest or somewhere in that range. And you can def. spray on the budsites. Hope you get that shit taken care of!!
 
I and numerous friends (since we live near the ocean and trees) have battled it out with it. Sooner or later everyone gets it here.

The BEST route is selecting a resistant strain hands down. I have a really good one now, and am switching to that being my sole strain soon. Literally sitting next to other plants with PM, and not one of my Grapefruits (not the standard strain, but something else) has it. Pretty cool to see how well that works.

To fight it: lots of air movement, thin out the bottoms, and keep your humidity at around 50%. I set my dehumidifier for 55% and it bounces between 50-60%.

In veg: sulphur works great! If your not able or wanting to try this. Foliar with Dutchmasters Zone and Penetrator, and add Canna Rhizotonic. The Zone is copper sulfate and other mean fungus stuff, Penetrator forces things systemic. Rhizotonic causes it to go to 8.5ph which hampers it down, AND helps boost the plants system to fight it off. Very effective. Treat once or twice a week. You can try every 3 days if your into trying to rid it completely. Other copper soap sprays from the garden shop are cheaper, and may work as effectively as Zone/Penetrator.

[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
1 qt RO water
[FONT=&quot]50-60ml Penetrator[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]2.25ml [/FONT]Zone
[FONT=&quot]3.5ml Rhizotonic [/FONT]

Forget all the Serenade, milk, baking soda, potassium bicarbonate stuff till later- these are all lighter weight controls and need to be done frequently. Fight in veg with heavy hitters cause you don't need to worry about harming flowers. Beat it down now, let the plants get healthy, and it goes better later.


In flowering:
You can go the sulphur route, once a week till week 4-5. Then stop- it's a debate about wether or not it effects taste, but do you really want to risk it?

I would recommend a combination of Zone and Penetrator up till about week 4 as another option. You'll not be able to use it after week 4, it could pose a risk to your flowers. I had mine get a bit stressed when I used Zone/Penetrator with Nitrozyme, so don't mix with kelp sprays at the same time. I might also have p/k burned them since the p/k from the Nitrozyme got shoved it by the Penetrator. Either way- stop after week 4, 5 at the outside.

From there on out your options are more limited. If you use milk, get acidopholus treated milk or raw milk (skim the fat off). The reason why is it's not the MILK that does the control, it's the BACTERIA in it that do it. A lacto bacillis treatment( read a thread on growing them, its easy) will do the same thing. The bacteria/milk works well, careful for budrot from spraying. Will need to be reapplied as needed- which will depend on your conditions as to how long that is. Always be on the look out for it, maybe even have a spray bottle loaded in your frig and zap any spots you see.

Other good options close to harvest are potassium bicarbonate (though it leaves residue), 8.5ph water (though it will come back real fast) and Dr.DoRights. I just tried Dr.DoRight's for the 1st time a couple days after using acidopholus milk, and the combo wiped it out for about a week. Both of these are very safe, even right before harvest- though a week or so before harvest I would just use the DoRight's.

There it is from a PM fighting master. Good luck, don't stress- with a little work and the right treatments you can keep it in check. Try to prevent it next time, its better then fighting it all the way through. My new veggies of a strain that had it before got Zone/Penetrator/Rhizotonic from day 1- no PM other then 1 cutting out of 50+.
 
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