Portable AC, Odor Control??

[Elite]

Greetings,

I have very nice crawl space with plenty of room. Problem is, the room is directly under the roof line. I battle with temps already (60 degrees outside).
Odor control is a must here. Other than putting "dryer sheets" in with the filter, I'm not sure is there is a inline filter that can be used/purchased/made??
Its my understanding that the portable AC blow air out instead of sucking...Please correct me if I'm wrong...

Thanks for your time!!
Elite

 

[ben ttech]

where would the air come from or go to WERE the answer one or the other???

an air conditioner sucks in air and blows out a cooler air...
but they have a radiator which needs airflow to work the magic...

in a window unit this is the part hanging its as out... and why its vented...
in a whole house system... this is that thing with the fan out in the side yard...

both of which offer exterior ambient temperatures and humidities to facilitate thedraw off of the heat the air conditioner extracts from the air its processing and has to get rid off..

a portable AC unit has this radiator inside... which is why these units need ducts to a window or the outside...




if you super insulated the space, then connected two ducts to the nearest living space...
a fan would keep that space quite close in temperature to interior room...

but the drawback ive always seen to growing in attics at high temperatures...
is that whatever insulation and air measures taken to protected the plants...

stops the second you go up there openthe door and start working in your garden..

seems to me you shock your pants every time youve a chore in the garden...
unless your also cooling the space needed to sit their door open and work...


you will note that attic grows are the LEAST suscessfully finished varities...

good luck!

 

[Elite]

a portable AC unit has this radiator inside... which is why these units need ducts to a window or the outside...

Thanks for the reply,
I happen to know a bit about Air handles, outdoor units, furnaces, boilers, heat pumps, ect.
I'm an electrician an I've hooked up literally hundreds of each, however that in NO way makes me and HVAC expert.

So I need to study up more on these portable A/C's. I'm still wondering if they are sucking or blowing out (I'm assuming they blow) of that duct. That makes a HUGE difference on how the odor control will be handled...

Elite

 

[ben ttech]

to be clear, im just a handiman myself...

my take on it is there are intake and exhaust ports on the body of the protable unit FOR the air in the room its cooling...

the cold out is blown air and goes through apendages which allow you to turn the direction of the stream...

the intakes are usually on the opposite side...

neither are easily converted into a ducted stream...
but anyone who can fabricate could if sufficently motivated...


ok so im reading in, but here goes...
you dont want to put the actual portable into the growing space because it would take up to much room...

fine...

build a BOX downstairs in the nearest closet space and put the protable in there... then run two ducts from THAT BOX to the GROW SPACE with enough fans to cycle the air between them...

mind you that is a closed loop... but it will certainly stay air conditioned...

your only other duct need would be the VENT AIR for the protables radiator needs...
sometimes that two ducts now that i think about it more...

 

[ben ttech]

So I need to study up more on these portable A/C's. I'm still wondering if they are sucking or blowing out (I'm assuming they blow) of that duct. That makes a HUGE difference on how the odor control will be handled...

ok i see your question better now...

i believe that protable AC units have TWO seperate columns of air being moved by fans...

one is the air the unit is in which it is cooling and dehumidifying in the process...
the other is the air it ducts in from outside the enviroment being cooled... and the same air heated from passing over the radiator vane where the heat extracted from the air conditioned space was concentrated...

your protable is pushing air in two streams...
but their seperate... so the EXHAUST your worried about doesnt pass through your grow space...

 

[ben ttech]

and now after looking at a half dozen different actual portables...
i see not a one with more than a single exhaust duct...


begging the question WHERE is the intake for that...
ie, is the exhaust air drawn from that being cooled...
seems likely...

screw the protable...
build a box and mount a window unit in it... ducted accordingly...

simpler...

 

[Elite]

Thanks for all that posting, however I a very nice room set-up (check sig)
It's all I need/have and I can do great with it.

Since no posted any real info here yet, I researched it a bit, heres just a little info about them:

1. How is a portable air conditioner different from a window air conditioner?

A portable AC is a small mobile air conditioner, unlike a window AC which must be mounted through the wall. Also, portable air conditioners do not require permanent installation. All of our portable air conditioners are between 29" and 34" tall and weigh between 65 and 80 pounds. Portable air conditioners also work well in apartment situations where a window unit is unacceptable.

2. Is a portable air cooler and a portable air conditioner the same thing?

No, these are not the same. Air coolers use water and evaporation to cool, similar to the method of a swamp cooler. Only the direct air stream is cooled (10 to 15 degrees), and generally air coolers cannot cool the ambient air in a room. Portable air conditioners use a compressor/freon to cool and are much more effective in cooling rooms and for keeping the humidity low.

3. Why and how portable are air conditioners vented?

Portable air conditioners extract hot air that must be vented. If the hot air is not vented, the portable air conditioner will not be able to cool a room effectively. Window and venting kits are always included with our portable air conditioners at no extra cost. You may also vent the portable AC through a wall vent, into the attic or drop ceiling, or even around a door! You are only limited by your creativity! For venting these portable AC systems through casement windows (windows that crank out), Plexiglas can be used. Simply cut the Plexiglas as the size of the window, cut out a 5" hole to vent the hose, and place this over the open window; not only is the portable air conditioner vented, but Plexiglas will allow the same amount of light to pass through the window as before.

4. How long is the exhaust hose?

The exhaust hoses are generally between 5 and 7 feet long and are made of high quality, 5" flex hose.

5. How does the window kit work?

The plastic window kit simply is cut to fit most any slider or up and down window in your home - up to 4 feet. The window is then closed against the foam to seal the air from the outside, the exhaust hose then is fit through a small cutout in the foam. Installation takes about 5 minutes and this allows for easy portability from window to window. For windows larger than 4 feet, simply purchase extra foam at the local hardware store. As mentioned earlier, for unique window situations such as casement (crank-out) windows, a little creativity is all that is needed.

6. Can the exhaust hose be extended?

All the Portable AC's come with the standard hose length of 5-7 feet. If you need a longer hose, these can be easily found at a local hardware store. It is a good idea to avoid hose lengths over 12 feet or 90 degree bends. You can also vent through the dryer hose as long as the hose diameter is 5" or more and the outdoor venting flap is removed.


7. Do portable air conditioners collect water?

All portable air conditioners produce condensation as they are cooled. This water is then contained in an internal water reservoir. On all of our models, this water reservoir has an auto shutoff feature so that water is never accidentally spilled onto the ground. With the unit off, the water is easily emptied into a drip pan. You can also gravity drain the portable AC by connecting a hose to the connection on the reservoir.


8. Are portable AC's energy efficient?

Energy Efficiency Rating (EER) is a standard measure of efficiency for comparing appliances and the cost of operation. The higher the EER, the more energy efficient the air conditioner. The WA1200E has an EER of over 12, while the Soleus KY32U has an EER of 10. Any rating of 10 or more is excellent. By cooling only one room, portable air conditioners can save you a considerable amount of money on your monthly electric bill. All of the portable air conditioners that we carry operate on 115 Volt/60 Hertz (the normal household standard). They generally run on about 7-10 amps and require a regular, 3-prong grounded plug found in most homes.


9. Are portable air conditioners used to cool computer server rooms?

This is one of the most common uses of a portable air conditioner! Even in small computer rooms, a 12000 BTU unit should be purchased due to the extra heat produced. Moreover, the portable AC will help keep the air dry and more suitable for computer application.

Elite

 

[Elite]

Question is:

Do I vent into a bedroom that is already a bit hot, but well ventilated??
Pros, I can mask the odor MUCH easier/ Cons, It'll make my bedroom a bit hotter

Do I vent it outside??
Pros, Hot air is removed from the dwelling/ Cons, I have to move the vent I already installed and do a "siding patch" on an extension ladder Odor control well be more if a problem

Elite

 

[Nordic]

You need to have a box for a carbonscrubber to make it inline.
Find a rubbermade or something or build a box that srubber will fit.
Then get a fitting for your ducting, some sikaflex and thats it.
I will have to do the same thing in a month or so.
If you didnt understand what I meant Iĺl draw a picture later.
Im sorry but my english is little rusty.

 

[Elite]

No, your english is good, and your idea is great:smile: whats "sikaflex"??

Perhaps I can make one out of solid/straight ducting...


Elite

 

[SKUNK420]

get a carbon filter with the proper flow rating for the exhaust. don't extend the exhaust duct too much because adding a carbon filter and more ducting will increase the back pressure and the fan inside the a/c may have a hard time pushing the hot air out of the condensing (HOT) side of the a/c. just to let you know the hot air coming out of the a/c will be very hot mine was 155 F at all times when cooling. you might have to run the hot air from the a/c to a 4" or 6" inline fan and then to the filter but i don't know any fans that can handle really hot air on a continuous basis.
i've use a portable a/c a lot in the past and if you can find a good one that actually works then good for you. mine was a 9000 btu maytag bought it in 2003 and it ran for one year straight like a champ and then used on and off since then. still no problems. it has cooled up to 3k in lighting no problems(your results may vary).

 

[Nordic]

My idea is to get same flow rate carbon as my exhaust out. It is too big for a/c, what means less resistance. Since it is run opposite direction as the exaust I can swap the two and get the full lifetime out of both.
Its not probably the best thing for the ac, but Ill bet u get a good year or two out of your ac. I live in a cold country so I only run the ac for couple of months a year anyway. Would do differently if I lived in CA or something.
Sikaflex is a silicone type of glue that sticks to enything realy hard and is flexible.
You could do one from strait tube no prob. Insulate it well though so you dont make a radioator out of it.

 

[Nordic]

Where I live there in tons of old portables for sale, since people get them when it gets realy hot, but later find out that the things are too loud to be any use. If u get them at winter the 400-500 buck ones go for about 100 used. Got 2 used ones last winter just in case for 175.
500cmh carbons go for about 120-150 here, so ac is cheaper then carbon here.

 

[Elite]

I live in a cold country so I only run the ac for couple of months a year anyway. Would do differently if I lived in CA or something.

Just because I'm in the US, I'm far from CA's climate zones from 11 down.
I'm in zone 7b. Mild rainy winters, sometimes snow, HOT dry summers.

May I ask what zone or country are you in??

I'll just wait until they start getting stinky, then I'll figure something out...
I have a 12,000 BTU in route, picked it up on e-bay for $300 shipped
Its nice they dehumidify...perfect for drying before I cure...

Elite

 

[GMax]

i am in the same boat i already got my portable and I am growing in a tent but the portable is sucking air right from my grow space to outside and i am worried about the upcoming odor (they in veg now) I had what i thought was a great idea for an inline carbon filter and i cant configure it to work right. I am also trying to muffle the sound my ac exhaust is louder than my 440 fan exhaust for added stealth.

 

[Diamonddss]

single hose is exhuast only
intake is inside the room.

dual hose has one exhuast and one intake.
Dual hose units have no negative pressure and are better.
For single hose sucks in stinky air and blows out sticky air.

for single hose exhuast you cant use carbon filter but because heat it will not last but maybe a couple months

You can buy ozenator inline but its over $200 but will work.

another suggestion if exhaust stinky run ac only at night when you run your hps
daytime will be less stinky

 

[bostrom155]

for single hose exhuast you cant use carbon filter but because heat it will not last but maybe a couple months

didnt even think of that, i have the same problem and was thinking of hooking up a stanley blower to the end of the exhaust hose with a DIY carbon filter in a box. carbon is fairly cheap enough to get thru the summer