Please help with closet space

[Bluestar]

Hey all, I've been through two cycles with a cab, and am looking to tweak my process if possible. I've got a 175MH and 400 HPS, a batwing reflector, and a cooltube to choose from. Also have Vortex 4" inline and Dayton blower, 4" also. My current cab is 15" Deep x 32" Wide x 60" (Inside Cab). Running the 400, my temps are in high 70's, and RH is kinda high, around 60, I think. Not to mention tired of handwatering.

So now my problem. I'm in a small one bedroom apartment, and limited on free space. I obviously can't cut holes through walls/ceilings, so I rely on central a/c for cooling. I'm hoping someone can help me make the most of what I have in gear already, and just improve my environment.

I was thinking the classic 2x4's and panda plastic, as my landlord doesn't come around unless somethings wrong with the apartment (Last time I saw him was over a year ago). I know it's not stealthly, but like I said, my landlord's a ghost. As long as he gets the rent, he's happy.

Then I thought about just a bigger cab, the one I have now cost me $135 after the melamine backing, mylar, etc. Anything new, and bigger of course, would be much more $$$.

I did see the mention on another thread of using the room whole, and venting through a blank door from lowes, but I thought that doors had to be matched to the hinge locations, and lock as well? A buddy needed a door, went to lowes for the replacement, and the guy that helped him said it was just easier to get whole new prehung door or hire subcontractor. Full of BS?

Sorry for the long initial post, but I wanted to show that I have been trying to do my homework, and have just hit a brick wall. Funds are kinda limited (when aren't they?), so just trying to be as efficient as possible.

Here's a rough sketch with dimensions for visual aid:

 

[Shady Smoka]

Get a "slab" door. They are just a blank door. No holes, cut or any modifications. Take that, make your own holes (buy kit from lowes) and get hinges that dont need to be cut in (forget the name, I'm high). You just screw the hinges on where you want them.
Hope that helps, Be safe

 

[Bluestar]

Thanks a bunch, going shopping today. One other thing, how do you recommend mounting the carbon filter? To the door, below the exhaust fan? On ceiling above door, just have a long enough duct to open? I'm thinking the door, but my concern is that the intake and exhaust will be to close together. Any input?

 

[messn'n'gommin']

Dry wall repair is lot simpler than hanging a door. It isn't difficult to find the approximate location of studs. Just knock on the wall to find them. For your intake use a drywall saw [easier (about $5)] or a razor knife [harder (about $5)] to cut the appropriate sized hole inside your grow room for a darkroom louver (about $25 for 8"x8"), put the louver in the hole, mark where to predrill (you can save a few bucks by borrowing a drill or spend $20 for an el cheapo cos they come in handy from time to time) holes for some wall anchors (small plastic ones about $2-3), hammer (el cheapo's for about $5-10) in place, screw the louver to the wall, caulk (dark colored silicon based) if you feel the need to. When the day comes for you to move out, remove the louver and cut ( you can borrow a power saw or buy an el cheapo one for about $20 or a Stanley "Shortcut" hand saw for about the same) 2 pieces of 1"x2" wood ($2-3 for about a 4'-6' piece) about 10"-12" long. Place inside the hole, half hidden and half exposed along one edge of the hole and screw [hehe...shoulda bought the drill(1" to 1and1/4" screws about $2 for a small box)] through the existing drywall into the ends of the wood. Repeat on the opposite side. Cut a piece of drywall (home improvement places will sell you a 4'x4' piece but not sure of the price...maybe $2 to $5 or so...shrugs) to fit the hole and screw to the wood. Mud (a small container of spackling $2-4), let dry (several hours but preferably for 24), sand lightly ($1 or so), paint (a coulpe of bucks or so). On the outside of the wall you would only have to use a "Return Air Grill" (about $5) at least the same or bigger area as the darkroom louver. Locate them opposite each other in an out of the way place so that if and then when your landlord makes a visit you could place a bookcase or a box to hide it for as long as he may be there. However your exhaust port is a bit more problematic. You may have to work it so that you can hang a picture or mirror or whatever over it for the same reason. I know it sounds like a lot of work and a lot of expense for someone not used to home improvement type work, and it may be, but it is NOT as difficult as it may, at first, seem. But for about $50 or $60 your in and out and in the end you will still have what tools you decide to buy, the louver, and the grill for future use. Hope this helps.

BTW...An el cheapo front door lockset can be swapped out for the door handle for about $5-10.

Namaste, mess

 

[Bluestar]

I had considered mounting the exhaust in the wall space above the door as you suggested, I already have the tools and 2x 8x8 darkroom louvers. Then I would have to figure out intake ( either through the door, or the gap between door and floor). I did forget with my first picture, that all three sides of the closet are iffy ( see the updated pic). The wall between the closet and kitchen does have a refrigerator on the other side, so the vent would be blocked visually, plus the sound could be blamed on the fridge. If done that way, then obviously the vent behind the fridge would be exhaust, and intake would be above the closet door. Would this be an advantage since my building has the central air ducts in the ceiling? Sorry for my ramble, thoughts just came together while typing this.

I guess my main question is : Does the above sound like the best solution?

 

[messn'n'gommin']

Cold air will fall as warm air rises, so AC vents in a ceiling are probably a bit more efficient than those installed in a floor at reducing gradient temps throughout any given room. That being said, I'm just wondering if placing your intake as low as possible somewhere between the wide shelf and the door and placing your exhaust as high as possible behind the fridge wouldn't be a better option. I don't know if doing it that way will help control temps any better, but I get the feeling that it certainly won't hurt, and raising your intake to the highest point and lowering your exhaust to the lowest point may not hurt, I just get the feeling it certainly won't help. LOL...as if THAT makes any sense.

BTW...If you're using a quality magnetic core and coil ballast for your HPS you might want to check out the CMH thread. It is supposed to run just a bit cooler and has a MUCH better spectrum.

 

[FRIENDinDEED]

ok im tryin to understand what you want to do cause i think i can help, but EXACTLY what part of teh room are you tryin to grow in, or are you gonna do a bigger cab?

 

[Bluestar]

Sorry, reading back from the beginning, I guess I did make it a little confusing. I've done 2x runs in the cab, but neither run was up to par. So, I was curious to see what the wise folks here could suggest. My funding is limited for a remodel, so I was hoping to use the gear I have already, just improve on conditions. Ideally, I would like to continue to use the cab with the 400hps, but not sure about cooling enough. And because of room issues in the apt, am very limited with what I can do. So my options are improving the cab, or modding the closet to be as environmentally effective as possible, without going broke.

Thanks to all who have replied so far, I really do appreciate it.

 

[messn'n'gommin']

Sorry, reading back from the beginning, I guess I did make it a little confusing. I've done 2x runs in the cab, but neither run was up to par. So, I was curious to see what the wise folks here could suggest. My funding is limited for a remodel, so I was hoping to use the gear I have already, just improve on conditions. Ideally, I would like to continue to use the cab with the 400hps, but not sure about cooling enough. And because of room issues in the apt, am very limited with what I can do. So my options are improving the cab, or modding the closet to be as environmentally effective as possible, without going broke.

Thanks to all who have replied so far, I really do appreciate it.

Put your cab against the adjoining kitchen wall and hook up your exhaust to vent out behind the fridge. A 1-1/2"x32" opening at the bottom of the door is 48" square inches passive intake and with only one hole to cut (and eventually to repair).

I'm having a light bulb moment! if you're running mid to high 70'sF in 16.69cf with a 400w'er; all I have to say is...well done! With skills like that, you don't need me to making dumbass suggestions.

Namaste, mess

 

[Bluestar]

messn,

you're really giving me to much credit, I'm relying on my central air to keep the apt. cool, which in turn keeps cab cool. cool tube with 4" vortex on 1/3 way, and dayton blower through carbon filter. --dedicated light cooling, dedicated cab cooling.

But your suggestion is the quickest, cheapest, and easiest suggested yet,

Thanks

 

[messn'n'gommin']

Hey all, I've been through two cycles with a cab, and am looking to tweak my process if possible. I've got a 175MH and 400 HPS, a batwing reflector, and a cooltube to choose from. Also have Vortex 4" inline and Dayton blower, 4" also. My current cab is 15" Deep x 32" Wide x 60" (Inside Cab). Running the 400, my temps are in high 70's, and RH is kinda high, around 60, I think. Not to mention tired of handwatering.

You may already be subscribed to this thread, but thought it relevant enough to point it out in case you haven't:

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=21879

Namaste, mess