please help - show me the best auto water!!! Do you know a better way, Do they work well ? Capillary Mat Systems

[acespicoli]

please help - show me the best auto water

Some favorite hydro threads

• Hydro Showdown
• rdwc-grow-along
• snypes-guide-to-rdwc
• root volume
• rdwc

been looking into automation (getting smarter or lazy )
peat based organic nute super soiless (organic-hydro???)

Guide to Blumat-Regulated Capillary Mat Systems​

Overview​

Blumat Watering Systems are the epitome of drip irrigation technology. However, installing and operating the systems can be tedious and high maintenance for gardens with a high number of low-volume containers (e.g. several hundred or thousand plants in 1-gallon containers). The problem is only exacerbated when the plants need to be moved around frequently, and a Blumat system can become more of a liability than an asset in these settings.
Capillary mats are commonly used in agricultural nurseries and greenhouses to efficiently irrigate a multitude of small containers. However, just like conventional drip systems, these watering systems are subject to over and under-watering, needlessly boosting humidity, stressing plants, and requiring more out of dehumidifiers and air conditioners.
Blumat & Capmat systems combine the two technologies, providing a “Best-of-both-Worlds” solution to efficiently irrigate many small containers with minimal maintenance. Plants can even be moved around without any additional maintenance to the system. Not even a single valve needs to be turned.
Plants in smaller containers (5-gallons of volume and under) can be placed directly onto the mat, and automated irrigation immediately begins. When a plant is placed on top of the mat, the weight of the container pushes down into the mat, forcing moisture up into the growing media into the container.

Design Concept & Configuration​

Despite the varying capillary mat types, the concept behind operating all of the capillary mat systems in conjunction with a surface Blumat is the same.
A capillary mat is embedded with drip tape, and wrapped in an anti-algae material. This material prevents algae, fungus gnats, and other unwanted biologicals from colonizing your mat. The material is porous, only allowing water to pass through when a weighted plant is placed on top of it.
To avoid over and under-watering, the moisture levels are regulated using a flat-bottomed surface Blumat:

This flat-bottomed Surface Blumat emits into a manifold of BluSoak drip tape, that in turn emits into the moisture-wicking capillary material below it. The material evenly distributes the moisture through the surface area of the mat, before making its way into the containers that sit on top. The Blumat can also be integrated with distribution drippers (instead of BluSoak drip tape) for gravity-fed systems, or smaller capmat systems.
Here is a diagram outlining the placement of all parts of a capmat system with a Surface Blumat:

The orange line on the bottom of the diagram is the water supply line–it is implied in the diagram that this line is coming from either a pressurized line or reservoir, and is continuing on to other capillary mats or Blumat Watering Systems.
The tape is not actually visible when properly using the mats, but is displayed in the diagram for viewing purposes.

Capillary Mat Types​

Sustainable Village carries several different types of capillary mats.

Aquamat​

The Aquamat capillary mats are the highest quality mats that Sustainable Village offers. These mats are completely composed, and ready to integrate with Blumat Systems.
These mats are made up of five components in four distinct layers.

1) Algae & Root-Resistant Foil Covering​

This black, perforated material prevents algae and other unwanted biologicals from penetrating into the mat. Contrary to popular belief, this material WILL stop roots from penetrating the mat! This makes the mats incredibly easy to clean, and moving plants is never stressful–for you, or for the plant!

2) BluSoak Drip Tape (Not pictured)​

We replace the black drip tape that is embedded in each mat (pictured) with our BluSoak drip tape (a Guide to this tape is linked below). The BluSoak drip tape works ideally with Surface and other Tropf Blumat sensors. The tape is ideal as it does not have a minimum pressure requirement to function. However, the tape does do best between 2-4PSI, which is generally best achieved with a pressurized system (as opposed to a gravity feed).
This tape distributes moisture as it is emitted from the Surface Blumat. The tape emits the moisture into the capillary material below.

3) Evaporation Block Layer​

This layer prevents salt or other fertilizer build up in the capillary material itself. It also prevents excess evaporation from occurring, and helps to prevent excessively high humidity. This reduces the burden on dehumidifiers, air conditioning appliances, and other temperature/humidity control infrastructure.

4) Super-Absorbent Capillary Mat​

This material does the actual “work” in these systems. This material is extremely absorbent of water and nutrient solution. It is so absorbent that it evenly emits the moisture throughout the capillary material, ensuring there are no overly wet/dry pockets.

5) Containment Barrier​

This a completely waterproof material that prevents all run-off from the cap mat, and prevents unwanted biologicals from growing into/through the bottom of the mat.

Basic Capillary Material​

This capillary material is an a la carte item, and can be used in conjunction with a Surface Blumat, anti-algae material, and drip tape to essentially construct your own version of an “Aquamat” configuration.

Thick Recycled Capillary Material​

This capillary material is an a la carte item just like the above material. This material is made of recycled synthetic fibers–it does not use organic materials like jute, cotton, and others that typically rot and do not perform well. This is a more eco-friendly version of the above-material.

How to Construct a Complete Capillary Mat System​

Capillary Mat Instructions

Comprehensive Parts List​

• Surface Blumat
• Blumat 8mm Tee
• Blumat 8mm Elbow
• 8mm x 8mm x 3mm Reducing Tee
• 3mm Tubing
• 8mm Tubing
• BluSoak Drip Tape
• Tape x 8mm Adapter
• Aquamats
• Capillary Material
• Recycled Capillary Material
• Anti-Algae Foil (For covering the capillary material)

Maintenance & Troubleshooting​

• If the mat is being over or under-watered, adjust the surface Blumat dial directly.
• Capillary mats and other Blumat Systems that utilize BluSoak drip tape do best under pressurized water supply. They generally run into issues on gravity feeds, as a gravity-fed system generally cannot achieve adequate pressure for BluSoak flow rates to meet plant demand.
• To clean the mat between uses, use a sweep or broom to remove any physical debris that has settled onto the mat. If any nutrient build-up has occurred, wash the build-up away with a hose or other flowing water. Once the mat has dried, roll it up and remove from UV exposure.
• The mat should be on an extremely level surface. Trays with channels will NOT work well with these mats–there will be moisture that settles into the channels, and will encourage fungus gnats, algae, and other undesirable biological elements.

Recommended Resources​

• Guide to Tropf Blumat Sensors
• Guide to BluSoak Drip Tape
• How to Configure a Blumat System from a Gravity Feed
• How to Configure a Blumat System from Pressure
• How to Configure a Blumat System from a Pump

 

[acespicoli]

 

[CocoNut 420]

That looks fancy and neat but capillary is capillary only without much expense

The capillary matt needs to drape into the nutrient below the platform.

It's scales up to 1.2mtr trays, talking from experience.

 

[420PyRoS]

Interesting system. Can't really help on this one, only used the blumat drippers.

 

[acespicoli]

Alot more exploring to do...before I got too far in I wanted some more advice from users

That looks fancy and neat but capillary is capillary only without much expense View attachment 18956930 View attachment 18956931
The capillary matt needs to drape into the nutrient below the platform.
View attachment 18956932 View attachment 18956933
It's scales up to 1.2mtr trays, talking from experience.

Im glad you posted this I was wondering about adapting different size non permeable flats....hmmm
In the states they call those 1020 trays in inches I guess they also come with the clone domes
Im still a little behind the curve on figuring out the reservoir was thinking 5gal to 50 gallon
Float valve can be risky im imagining thx hows the pump delivery work regulate is the mat wicking and the pump supplies water or circulates the basin, both?
I luv those non woven plant bags with a little vermiculite im in auto water heaven almost im thinking

Interesting system. Can't really help on this one, only used the blumat drippers.

blumats for the win? never a under or overwater issue ? saw the mars hydro auto water with the pump even with emitters it just seems like its not going to self regulate.

having only tried sip basin coarse perlite im needing a primer... this looks like it would mesh well with
the non woven fabric pots maybe

The pdf above gave me this tidbit
Capillary mats allow nutrients to rise from below into
the medium as needed, increasing oxygenation and
leading to improved root growth.

I think blumat has a fertilizer device and filters they say the fabric last two years

 

[Zero Hedge]

I use Blumats (gravity with carrots) - they rock!
but for bigger systems, like they say above, the capillary system seems much better, while maintaining the elegance and simplicity of Blumats.
I watched their video a couple of years ago - when they first came out with the capillary mats, and it seemed really nice and simple to use. The beauty of Blumats, to me, is the (powerless) automation.
Best to you on your choice - however you choose

 

[CocoNut 420]

Float valve can be risky im imagining thx hows the pump delivery work regulate is the mat wicking and the pump supplies water or circulates the basin, both?
I luv those non woven plant bags with a little vermiculite im in auto water heaven almost im thinking

Hello, I've personally not had any trouble with the valve's jamming but I've read about them jamming and emptying the reservoir into your tent.

I put my unit into a tray that can hold the reservoir volume so worst case it lands in the tray.

The valve just delivers the nutrient into a tray then the matt wicks it up to them.

I've got a couple of wicks in the middle aswell, tbh idk how much difference that's going to make but its certainly not going to do any harm being there.

I've used the very same set up with 1.2mtr tray and 9 plants.
The one thing I didn't like was the plants rooted to the spot, after you cut the sites from the lid the plants need to stay in that spot.

 

[CocoNut 420]

I'm about to try a weed blanket over the capillary matt, I'm hoping that the weed material will let through enough water while repelling roots from growing through it.

The small one in the pic above is for my clone tent, seedlings, mum's and clones so ideally I don't want them rooting into the matt.

I'm waiting for the weed blanket to be delivered so i can try it.

 

[acespicoli]

I'm about to try a weed blanket over the capillary matt, I'm hoping that the weed material will let through enough water while repelling roots from growing through it.

The small one in the pic above is for my clone tent, seedlings, mum's and clones so ideally I don't want them rooting into the matt.

I'm waiting for the weed blanket to be delivered so i can try it.

Ive done some automatic livestock watering around the place automation is great.
Also vegetable garden irrigation hope to add a rain sensor this year.

Im starting the seedlings tomatoes, peppers, seedless watermelon... thats a new one for me but hunny luvs it
Hope the root thing is better with the top layer may also keep evaporation down... prob still gets lots of airflow
Not having any electric to worry about is a cool aspect of the wicking effect,
Self pruning roots the perlite sippy they used to grow deep down in that but nutes would soak down
they need aeration or the bottom nute water runoff can become sour. With a little aeration no problems.
Lifting the pots the roots pulled up chunks of coarse perlite a little messy.

Over the years ive looked at
NFT, DWC, RDWC, Bato Buckets, Crusty Buckets, kratky raft hydro, fogponics, aeroponics,

Maybe fabric over perlite
Root mass and RDWC was what pushed out explosive yields
Wick is simple, Iike your tube thru the side if the system can circulate and aerate thru a waterfall
Maybe some easy listening music and the sounds of the waterfall

For seedlings clones small plants I dont think you could beat it where cost and simplicity are involved
Also small container mini plants they dry out quick sometimes
You got a nice thing going, is that poster board I saw for the shelf material ?
Looking forward to you weed blanket tests

 

[acespicoli]

The key concept about the Kratky Method is it is one of the few passive hydroponic methods. This means no electricity is used to pump air or water. This graphic shows the separation between passive and active hydroponics.

Notice the similarity between Kratky and Deep Water Culture. Dr. Kratky understood DWC but wanted to explore the possibility of growing without pumps. His method allows people to grow plants around the world in developed and developing countries alike. Plants grown this way are not dependent on the electrical supply nor will they die when a pump fails. While plants grown in DWC may grow faster or larger, it is a mistake to assume DWC is an improvement on Kratky. Independence from a power supply is what gives the Kratky method its own advantage. One discovery that Dr. Kratky and others made was how plants create "air roots" in this system. For optimum success with this method, it is important to understand air roots.

The thing with the RDWC thats attractive was the root mass using 10" or larger net pots
with claybbles or LECA etc... I guess rockwool on the wicking fabric, even perlite/vermiculite
Non woven bags and peat or coco give the same with organic nutes mixed in and yucca wetting

At dissolved oxygen levels lower than about 4.8 mg/L, aerobic metabolism declines and anaerobic metabolism becomes increasingly important. Although some activity can be maintained even at dissolved oxygen levels as low as 1.4 mg/L (19% saturation at 75°F and 20 ppt),

Beneficial bacteria and fungi in hydroponic systems:​

Types and characteristics of hydroponic food production methods​

https://doi.org/10.1016/j.scienta.2015.09.011

Wick raft but with salts or organics and the best media ?
This is kinda like any other thing lights etc build it to suit your needs I guess

 

[acespicoli]

At first glance, these may seem expensive. If you're using them as intended though - in trays with capillary mats, they're totally worth it. This is a growing system popular in Europe that's only slowly making its way into the USA. These fit on top of a capillary mat with perforated black foil on top of that to prevent algae and other things from growing. The surface blumat turns water on and off that spreads moisture through the felt and soaks up from the bottom. It works great with fabric pots and plastic ones with a flat bottom and extra holes drilled in, but not plastic pots with a big lip - the mat needs to be touching the bottom of the pot. Good for pots up to 2 gallon and larger for plants with deep but not surface roots. In a 5 gallon pot, the moisture will only go up about half way, so with that size it's better to use a regular Blumat sensor. One of these plus distribution drippers will supply enough water for 5 square meters of tray. The electronic version can supply enough for thousands of plants as long as the surface is flat (use a level to make sure).

1- $49
This mat is great for lining seed trays and for use with the Surface-Blumat. The way to set it up is to line your tray or tub with the capillary mat fabric and put the Surface Blumat on top- and when adjusted correctly, the Blumat will automatically turn your water flow on and off based on the moisture level of the cap mat.

$3.68/ft
Use this to stop algae and other unwanted organisms growing on capillary mat set-ups. This high quality perforated black foil lets the water in but not the light. You can also use it to cover Surface Blumats, the tops of Grodan cubes, and any other places where you have a moist material in light. 4' wide - order by any amount of linear feet.

Guide to BluSoak Drip Tape​

BluSoak in Action, Product Guides | 0 |

Overview & Origin​

BluSoak drip tape (also referred to as tape, soaker hose, drip hose, etc.) is a practical and economical accessory to Blumat Watering Systems, and can also be used in combination with flow controllers to configure EasySoak systems.
Sustainable Village found a need for drip tape while transitioning from home growers to the commercial cultivation market. Irrigating raised beds and large areas of square footage using Blumat sensors can be extremely expensive as well as high-maintenance. However, they’re also extremely high-performing systems.
BluSoak drip tape is a tyvek-like material–it’s a semi-permable membrane that allows for the passage of fluids under pressure.
In order to compromise between extreme performance and high cost, BluSoak drip tape was introduced as a component to extend the watering ability and distribution of each Blumat sensor.
BluSoak drip tape is the perfect solution to gardens with high square footage and/or canopy space that want to utilize Blumat technology. BluSoak tape systems are ideal for garden beds, raised beds, and other large volumes of soil or growing media.

Concept Overview​

BluSoak and some other drip tapes are materials with micropores. These tape materials are used to evenly distribute water and nutrient solution over soil or other growing media.
In general, a pressurized or pumped water source is fed into a manifold of tape across row crops. Flow controllers and/or timers are used to control the volume of water going into each row or field.
Blumat systems use BluSoak tape to implement this same concept on a smaller scale. Flow controllers and timers are replaced by Blumat sensors, which regulate the flow into each container, bed, or area.
For an in-depth look at EasySoak systems, check out this article.
BluSoak tape is capable not only of emitting water and nutrient solution through its micropores, but can also emit air! This makes it an ideal solution to aerating compost tea, reservoirs, Aquaponic systems and/or fish ponds, and more.

Use with Blumat Systems​

BluSoak drip tape is used to extend the watering ability of each Blumat sensor, and can evenly distribute moisture and/or nutrient solution over a much larger area than a standalone Blumat.
The Blumat sensor delivers water based on plant demand, feeding water and/or nutrients from a pressurized water source into a length or lengths of tape. The Tropf Blumat does the sensing flow-rate-regulating, while the BluSoak drip tape
There are three general concepts of Blumat/Blusoak designs or configuration. This article runs over them in detail.
They are configured for three variations, each a different balance of product cost vs. system performance.
Here’s a concept diagram of how the BluSoak tape works in tandem with a Tropf Blumat Sensor:

Adapters Used with Blumat Systems​

3mm x Tape​

These adapters are used to connect BluSoak to 3mm tubing (the tubing that runs through each Blumat sensor). These are used in economy and mid-range designs.

8mm x Tape​

These adapters are used to connect BluSoak to 8mm tubing. Generally, this is reddish superflex tubing used in the double-manifold designs.

Tape Coupler​

This adapter is used to combine two sections of tape into a single section.

Tape Coupler w/ Valve​

This adapter combines two sections of tape into a single section, but has a valve that can partially or completely stop flow.

End Flush Plug​

This adapter is used to end a section of tape. They are used in economy designs.

Ideal Placement for Irrigation​

BluSoak can be placed anywhere in concept, as long as each length of tape (or lengths in a manifold design) are level or on less than a 1% grade.
That being said, the tape can be buried for sub-surface irrigating purposes, and some BluSoak used in this way has been used for 20+ years with success!
However, the absolute best results I have personally seen in BluSoak systems are when the tape is placed directly on the soil surface, and then insulated with several inches of mulch (straw is generally preferred, but I’ve seen all kinds of materials used with success).
This picture really highlights the beautiful harmony achieved between living soil and BluSoak systems:

When placed on the soil surface and insulated with mulch, BluSoak tape encourages all matter of benefical fungi, bacteria, and other microorganisms that positively benefit living soil. Read more about benefits to living soil here.

Use for Aeration​

While it is lesser known, BluSoak tape can also be used as “BluAir.” This tape can emit air or gases through its micropores, keeping reservoirs, ponds, or any other liquid aerated.

We use a length of tape in a bottom of a bucket in our Compost Tea Bubbler Kits.

General Advice & Guidance​

• BluSoak tape must be level, or on a grade of less than 1% to function properly
• BluSoak requires under 10PSI to function. Anything over that will burst the tape (use Pressure Reducers!)
• BluSoak tape is 5/8″ diameter (use 5/8″ tape fittings)
• Getting pinhole leaks in your tape? Insects and/or rodents are likely culprits. You can use a tape coupler to repair the damaged sections, but you’ll likely want to address the root cause.
• Is your tape splitting along the seams? Contact Sustainable Village.

Related Parts​

• BluSoak Drip Tape
• Tape x 3mm Adapter
• Tape x 8mm Adapter
• Tape End Plug
• Tape Valve
• Tape Coupler
• 3mm Tubing
• Distribution Dripper
• 8mm Tubing
• Blumat Pressure Reducer
• Flow Controllers

Related Resources​

• How to Design/Configure a Blumat System from Pressure
• How to Design/Configure a Blumat System from Gravity
• BluSoak Drip Tape vs. Distribution Drippers
• Guide to Blumat & BluSoak Container Kits
• 5 Steps to an EasySoak System
• How to Calculate BluSoak Flow Rates
• 5 Ways Blumat (and BluSoak) Benefits Living Soil
• 5 Beginner Mistakes Using Blumat Systems

 

[acespicoli]

one sensor many drips less is more ?

 

[acespicoli]

How to Calculate Blusoak Flow Rates​

So, you’re interested in using Blusoak and you want to make sure that your plants will receive the right amount of water. There are two main variables that change the flow rate of your Blusoak, and you can manipulate these variables to achieve the flow rate that you desire.
Variable 1: Length of Blusoak
Variable 2: Pressure – Blusoak can function between pressure levels of 2psi-8psi, with optimal pressure being 4psi
*Blusoak can split at the seam with pressure levels of 10 psi and above

Variable 1, Length of Blusoak: In looking at the graph above you will see that as the length of Blusoak increases, the flow rate per foot decreases. Here’s another way to think about this: The total output of water is equal for all lengths of Blusoak.
For example, if you refer to the graph, at 2 psi all lengths of Blusoak will output 100 pints of water per day

• 50 feet of Blusoak x 2 pints = 100 pints
• 100 feet of Blusoak x 1 pint = 100 pints
• 200 feet of Blusoak x .5 pint = 100 pints

Variable 2, Pressure: The flow rate increases linearly as pressure increases. Increase the flow rate by the same multiple that you increase the pressure. For example, if you increase the pressure by a multiple of 1.5, you will do the same for flow rate. When you double the pressure you can expect to double the flow rate.
Looking at the 100 foot length of Blusoak on the graph, you can see that:

• 2psi = 1 pint per foot per day
• 1.5 x 2psi = 1.5 x 1 pint per foot per day, OR 3psi=1.5 pints per foot per day
• 4psi = 2 pints per foot per day
• 8ps = 4 pints per foot per da

 

[acespicoli]

5 Beginner Mistakes Using Blumat Systems​

Troubleshooting & Instructions | Irrigation Equipment

irrigation.equipment

1) Repeatedly Calibrating the Blumat Sensor​

The instructions of getting a blumat to a “hanging drip” and calibrating from there (tighten 2 triangles for Blumat sensors & drippers, or none for BluSoak systems) is for the initial calibration ONLY. You do NOT need to repeat this process if your moisture levels are not where you’d like them.
This process is a rough calibration, and any further adjustments to moisture levels can be made by simply turning the adjustable knob on the Blumat. If your soil is more wet than you’d like, you’ll turn the knob clockwise. If it’s more dry than is ideal, you’ll turn the knob counter-clockwise to increase the flow rate.
You only need to find the hanging drip one time, and then follow up with small adjustments to the blumat sensor(s) in the following days/weeks.

2) Making Big, Fast Adjustments​

The working metaphor for adjusting blumat sensors is that of driving a boat. If the reader has ever driven a boat, they’ll know that when the wheel is turned, the boat does not immediately change direction the way a car does. The rudder of the boat instantly moves, but there is a time-gap between the time the wheel is turned and when the boat will actually begin to turn. Blumat systems are the same! If you adjust your system and don’t see immediate results, your best bet is to wait 24 hours.
The common mistake is that the user adjusts he system, but won’t see results in a few hours. Not seeing desired results, the user continues to adjust the system. This results in a series of over-corrections, and is likely to result in moisture swings. The user will continue to adjust back and forth, getting big swings in moisture.
Instead, the user should make an adjustment and wait 24-48 hours to see results before making additional adjustments. This will minimize the problem of over-correcting. To finish with the boat metaphor–you want to drive in a straight line, not a series of “S” curves!

3) Being Too Number-Focused​

Readings on the digital meter are targets to be aimed for–they’re not a measurement of your self-worth! If your digital meter readings fluctuate at all, or otherwise are not hitting that “perfect” number of 100 mbar, you should not be concerned. Minor fluctuations are normal, and you should gauge the success of your system on your plant health, not the meter reading.
Depending on environmental circumstances, you may find that 100mbar is an optimal moisture level for you. You may also find that 100mbar leads to problems! Coco and soil cultivators will find optimal growth at different readings. Differing humidity levels and ambient temperature will impact ideal readings as well.
I’ve personally spoken with growers having great success at 40mbar up to 200mbar. Personally, my plants are obviously overwatered at 40mbar and will be stunted! 200mbar is too dry, and my plants will grow but will not yield very well.
Don’t be attached to a number. Use the readings on your moisture meter to dial in the perfect reading for you and your garden.

4) Turning Water Supply On/Off​

Cultivators often turn their Blumat Watering Systems off when they’re supplementing with compost teas, hand-watering, or if it has rained in an outdoor garden. This can be dangerous! Blumat sensors require a constant supply of water at a constant pressure to self-regulate and operate properly. When water supply is intermittently turned off, the blumat sensors cannot deliver water as they dry out. This will cause the valve to open excessively. When water supply is restored, the open valve will likely flood your system, or cause a “runaway” blumat.
Blumat systems sense excess moisture, depending how they’re calibrated. If you supplement with hand-watering, nutrients, rain, or any other moisture, your system does not need to be turned off or adjusted at all. The blumat sensors will stop emitting moisture until the moisture levels in your media fall to levels you’ve previously calibrated the system to. Keep your system on, unless it is actively flooding!

5) Getting Frustrated​

Blumat systems should make your life easier! If you’re having trouble, read the Tips/Tricks PDF. IF you still can’t figure things out, call the office and solve the problem quickly. Frustrated customers are usually a 5 minute phone call away from being successful for the rest of their cycle/season. Please don’t hesitate to contact our experienced and knowledgable staff at 303.998.1323 if you continue to experience problems!

 

[acespicoli]

FAQ: Can I Feed Compost Extract and/or Tea in a Blumat System?​

FAQ | 0 |

There are plenty of cultivators who successfully feed compost teas and compost extracts through Blumat Watering Systems.
However, these cultivators generally have practices in place to minimize clogging. Clogging and failure of the Blumat System is the primary concern when using compost teas & extracts with a Blumat System.
These feeds are notoriously high in physical particulates as well as living organisms–both are factors that will increase probability of clogging in the system. Physical particulates will physically block the tubing and can stop flow, while living organisms tend to produce biofilm and other matter that can clog systems by themselves, or eventually grow large enough to produce a physical blockage on their own.
There are many precautions that can be taken when designing/installing/operating a Blumat Watering System to minimize problems when using nutrients/additives of any kind, including compost teas and extracts–more details can be found in this article.
So, the answer to this question is “yes,” but with some caveats. And in actuality, the absolute best results I have seen in commercial gardens have been facilities feeding pure water through their Blumat System, while supplementing compost tea/extract with hand-watering on top of the system.

Concerns​

As previously mentioned, physical clogging can occur when using compost teas and extracts. The clogs can even occur downstream of filters, due to increased biological activity in the water supply tubing. Biological entities can actually create more physical debris in the tubing downstream of filters.
However, my own primary concern when using compost tea and extracts in Blumat Watering System is on the more technical side of tea/extract-making.
Most cultivators making these brews do so in a vortex brewer or other compost tea brewer. These brewers create extremely oxygen-rich environments by repeatedly introducing air and oxygen into the mixture. These are referred to as aerobic environments, and are associated with beneficial biological entities.
Environments low in oxygen are anaerobic, and are typically associated with pathogenic organisms and other biological entities that negatively affect plant health/growth.
My concern is that because Blumat Watering Systems have such a slow/gradual flow rate, the compost tea/extract sits in the water supply tubing for an extended period of time. The water supply tubing in a Blumat System is an anaerobic environment. While I have not done or been a part of a study evaluating the biological profile of a tea before/after entering a Blumat System, I’d be willing to guess the profile dramatically changes between the input and output of the system.
The tea may be brewed in an ideal, aerobic environment. The cultivator may even check the tea under a microscope to monitor the organisms present in the tea/extract. They may even confirm a strong presence of beneficials and an absence of pathogenic organisms.
However, if this tea/extract sits in anaerobic supply tubing (regardless if it’s 1/2″, 8mm, 3/4″, or some other size) for an extended period of time, the biological profile of the tea/extract is likely to significantly change–if the same tea/extract were evaluated on the output of the Blumat system, it is highly likely that the profile of beneficial organismsathogenic organisms has dramatically shifted.

Summary​

Compost extracts and teas can be used successfully in conjunction with a Blumat Watering System–however, it is highly recommended to design systems with appropriate infrastructure (filters, larger tubing diameters, flush/purge valves, etc.) in these cases.
Compost teas/extracts may be brewed with the utmost diligence, but their profiles can quickly shift if they spend an extended time in the water supply tubing of the system.
It is my opinion that best practices are to feed water (with minimal additives/amendments) through a Blumat Watering System, and to supplement any additional feeds through hand-watering, foliar-feeding, or other delivery mechanisms that do not encourage pathogenic organisms to proliferate in the system and soil

Guide to Nutrients & Blumat Systems​

​

Written by​

James McMillin​

Guide to Nutrients & Blumat Systems​

Can nutrients be used with Blumat Systems?

The answer to this question is rich with subtleties and nuance, which is why it needs to be addressed with an article as opposed to a yes/no. The short answer is generally yes, with some caveats.

The devil’s in the details, and whether any given regimen is compatible with a Blumat Watering System is dependent on many factors.

Factors Influencing Blumat-Compatibility Dosing Volume & Frequency​

These are the most obvious and immediate factors that will determine how problematic any given fertigation program is compatible with a Blumat Watering System.

The concentration of nutrients (dose) as well as frequency of nutrient application are the first and foremost factors impacting how compatible a nutrient program will be with a Blumat Watering System. When converting from a drain-to-waste style, we recommend using 25-50% dilution rates of nutrient concentrations.

The thicker the nutrient solution, the more likely it is to clog a system or cause other issues.

Organic vs. Synthetic​

Organic nutrients are generally stickier, more encouraging of biological growth, and mix into higher-viscosity solutions. These are generalities, and your specific organic fertilizer/additive may not fit the description.

However, if these generalizations apply to your organic fertilizer, it is more likely to clog your system than a lower viscosity and more sterile synthetic fertilizer/additive.

Broadly speaking, synthetic fertilizers are less likely to cause problems in a Blumat System.

Water-Soluble vs. Particulate​

The more water-soluble a nutrient or additive is, the more likely it is to be successful in a Blumat Watering System.

When an additive or nutrient has physical particulates that “settle out” in a reservoir or solution, it poses a higher risk of causing problems in a Blumat system. Luckily, physical particulate matter can generally be filtered out prior to entering a Blumat System.

System Flow Rate/Reservoir Turn-Over Rate​

Systems that have nutrient solution sitting in the tubing for extended periods of time will tend to have more problems using nutrients. The longer the solution sits stagnant in a reservoir or irrigation tubing, the more likely it is to “settle out” and have physical condensates in the tubing/res, as well as being more likely to encourage biological growth, algae, and biofilm.

Larger, commercial-scale systems with a faster turn-over time of the nutrient solution in reservoirs/irrigation tubing will reduce the likelihood of excessive nutrient build-up (and subsequent problems). These are the systems most likely to be successful with nutrients and other additives.

Strategies & Products to Mitigate Problems Installing Flush Valves​

When designing water supply for a Blumat Watering System, I always recommend incorporating flush or purge valves. In a system that is supplied by a pump and/or pressurized line, these valves be placed at the end of each water supply line (instead of an end plug).

These valves will remain closed 99% of the time the system is installed and operational. If/when air, debris, biologicals, or anything else unwanted makes its way into the supply line, the valves can be opened. The pressure of the system should force any undesirable matter out of the end of the tubing.

Once a steady, clean flow of water is achieved, the valve can be closed again to resume normal operation of the system.

In gravity-fed systems, I recommend a loop design of water supply. In this case, a Tee-fitting is installed in the mid-point of the loop at the point furthest from the reservoir (or equidistant from multiple bulkheads in the reservoir). A valve is placed on the open end of the tee fitting, and is operated the same way as in a a pressurized system–it should remain closed until the operator needs to purge or flush the lines.

Valves can even be installed on the ends of BluSoak tape lengths - these valves can be opened to purge tape of any debris in the same way.

See our various valves here.

Filtering​

Filters prevent physical debris, particulate, and other particles from getting into water supply tubing. Filtering does not do much to prevent biologicals and biofilms, but mitigates risk of debris, sediment, or some other physical blockage of irrigation tubing. It is one of the most simple and reliable ways of reducing clog-risk.

See our filters here.

Solubilizing Nutrients​

When using nutrients and other additives that are not completely soluble (or tend to settle out even after becoming solubilized), it is recommended to use additional products to assist in making the products as water-soluble as possible. When nutrients or other particulates settle out, it can increase risks for physical blockage (even after filtering systems/stations) as well as biofilm production.

For organic nutrients, drinking-grade Biofilm Buster is recommended to assist in solubilizing nutrients and reducing risk of clog/biofilms. It is added to a reservoir at a dilution ratio of 2000:1 and is OMRI listed.

Biofilm Buster


For salt-based or mineral-based nutrients, dripclean is recommended to assist in solubilizing the nutrients and reducing risk of clog/biofilms.

Dripclean

Switching Between Nutrients/Water​

Two reservoirs can be integrated if the cultivator would like to switch between a nutrient solution and a pure water solution (or, between two different solutions). The two reservoirs should just be connected using valves and a tee fitting. The cultivator can open/close valves depending which reservoir they’d like to draw from at a given time.

Want help figuring out your ideal system? Request a free design and quote here:

Key Takeaways​

• Most nutrient programs are compatible with Blumat systems, but appropriate precautions should be taken.
• Distribution Drippers will clog before anything else.
• Dosing/Frequency is important!
• Pre-emptive strategies like filtering, choosing water-soluble nutrients, and using nutrient-solubizing products are better than trying to clean/clear lines later.
• Flush Valves pre-emptively manage nutrient-related (and air/debris-related) problems and should always be incorporated into a design
• The faster the “turn-over” of a reservoir, the more likely nutrient-use will be successful.
• We're here to help if you have any questions!

Guide to the Blumat Pump Kits​

Product Guides | 0 |

Pump Kits for Blumat Watering Systems​

Sometimes, pumps are preferred to source water for Blumat systems (the other two options are gravity, or a pre-existing pressurized line such as a municipal source or hose bibb).
When gravity feeds aren’t adequate, pre-existing water lines are chlorinated or otherwise unusable, or if automated nutrient-dosing is desired with a Blumat system, a pump will get the job done.
Blumat Watering Systems require a constant pressure to self-regulate, and so Sustainable Village has designed a pump/accumulator tank/pressure reducer concept that works flawlessly with their systems.
The pumps have lower-than-typical flow rates for the gardens they serve, because the flow rate on Blumat Systems is generally slow/gradual. The 3 gallon-per-minute (GPM) pump in our high-flow model can serve up to 600 Blumat sensors depending on other factors–this usually surprises cultivators, as they are used to large volumes of water being delivered in short periods of time. These irrigating techniques require more power and pumps with much higher flow rates.

The Concept​

In concept, all of the Blumat Pump Kits are the same. They begin with either a bulkhead or foot valve, which the pump pulls from. It pulls water/nutrient solution from the reservoir through a filter, before going through the pump itself. The pump then goes into an accumuator tank (or, an optionally integrated dosatron configuration) before entering water supply line. Auxiliary filters can be installed following the Dosatron and throughout the Blumat system as well.
Finally, the water or nutrient solution will go through a pressure reducer before safely entering the Blumat Watering System.

How they Work with Blumat​

Blumat Watering Systems require a steady and constant pressure to function properly. However, the incoming pressure must also be under 15 PSI. All of the following pump kits supply exactly that!
The pump supplies pressure and flow into the Blumat system. However, since Blumat systems deliver water on demand, there are times when the flow rate will be 0. There will also be times when the flow rate is high, and placing demands on the pump that it cannot meet. If the pump is turned on all the time, the flow could never be 0 as it is sometimes required. The pump would also burn out.
To combat this problem, an accumulator tank is used to buffer between the pump and Blumat system. The accumulator tank is pressurized by the pump, but then allows the pump to rest. The tank itself is able to supply flow and pressure to the Blumat system, but only as it is needed.
By following the accumulator tank with a pressure reducer, the pump kits in essence provide the exact same function that an open municipal line or hose bib would. It is the perfect solution for supplying a Blumat system with water and/or fertilizer mix!

Models​

Basic (1.4 GPM Pump) (Mounted Version, 230V version)​

This is the basic pump kit. It is ideal for small, personal-sized grows.

Basic Pump Kit Assembly Instructions​

Replacement Parts​

• Bulkhead
• Filter
• PVC Compression Union
• Accumulator Tank
• Pump

High-Flow (3 GPM Pump)​

This kit is recommended for and anything larger than a personal or tent grow. It is capable of supplying several hundred feet of garden beds, or up to about 600 smaller plants on individual sensors. If using a BluSoak system, this kit should be used to supply systems with less than 5500 cumulative feet of drip tape.

High-Flow Pump Kit Assembly Instructions​

Replacement Parts​

• (Uses same bulkhead/filter/fittings as previous)
• Accumulator Tank
• Pump

Ultra High Flow (4.5 GPM Version, 6.6 GPM Version, 13.5 GPM Version)​

These kits are used to supply farms and larger commercial systems. The 4.5GPM model should be used for systems with less than 8250 feet of tape. The 6.6GPM model should be used in systems with less than 12,100 feet of tape. The 13.5GPM model should be used in systems with less than 24,750 feet of tape.

Replacement Parts​

• (Uses same bulkhead/fittings/filter as previous)
• Accumulator Tank
• 13.5 GPM Pump

Troubleshooting​

It is worth noting that almost all of the problems I hear about with the pump kits involve foot valves and/or foot valve connecting systems. Whenever possible, I urge cultivators to place their pump kit beneath the water line of the reservoir rather than being mounted above the reservoir.

• Is the filter clogged? The cup filter can be conveniently cleaned by screwing off the metal attachment and physically removing debris/bioflims/etc.
• How many wraps of tape did you apply to the pipe thread fittings? We recommend anywhere from 3-6 full wraps of tape to ensure there are absolutely no air leaks. The pump frequently pulls air through fittings with only 1-2 tape wraps, and causes severe problems.
• Is the accumulator tank charged? You can use a bike pump to charge the tanks (using the Schroeder valve) up to 10PSI. If the tank isn’t holding a charge, that’s the problem.
• When in doubt, use a pressure gauge kit to find pressure differentials in your system. These indicate the exact placement of clogs or other problems.
• Is the pump running constantly, without taking breaks? Chances are, either the accumulator tank is broken, the pressure switch on the pump is broken, or the pump is sucking air. You’ll want to reapply additional tape to threaded pipe fittings and ensure the tubing preceding the pump is completely void of air.
• Guide/Troubleshooting the Tanks

Maintenance​

• Clean the filter regularly
• Use strategic “purge valves” to remove air/debris from the system periodically
• Ensure the pump does not run constantly or uptake air as this will burn the pump out

Accessories​

• Foot Valve Connecting System (When the pump cannot be placed below the water line of the reservoir)
• Foot Valve
• Filter
• Accumulator Tank Fittings
• 0-30 PSi Pressure Gauge Kit (Great for troubleshooting)
• 0-100 PSi Pressure Gauge Kit (Great for troubleshooting)
• Blumat System Pressure Reducers
• 1/2″ Braided Flex Tubing
• Dual Reservoir Connection System

Related Resources​

• Designing a Pump-Fed Blumat System
• Guide to Accumulator Tanks

The team over there at irrigation.equipment have plenty to teach
Nice to know you can keep it simple or advanced as you want it
Pre mixed container soil can run out of nutes for sure

 

[Zero Hedge]

One trick I learned with the gravity system is to add an extra line, basically to create an inner circle or infinity symbol with the hose. It will level out the pressure/flow so all the carrots get even pressure. Like this:

 

[420PyRoS]

Alot more exploring to do...before I got too far in I wanted some more advice from users

Im glad you posted this I was wondering about adapting different size non permeable flats....hmmm
In the states they call those 1020 trays in inches I guess they also come with the clone domes
Im still a little behind the curve on figuring out the reservoir was thinking 5gal to 50 gallon
Float valve can be risky im imagining thx hows the pump delivery work regulate is the mat wicking and the pump supplies water or circulates the basin, both?
I luv those non woven plant bags with a little vermiculite im in auto water heaven almost im thinking

blumats for the win? never a under or overwater issue ? saw the mars hydro auto water with the pump even with emitters it just seems like its not going to self regulate.

having only tried sip basin coarse perlite im needing a primer... this looks like it would mesh well with
the non woven fabric pots maybe

The pdf above gave me this tidbit
Capillary mats allow nutrients to rise from below into
the medium as needed, increasing oxygenation and
leading to improved root growth.

I think blumat has a fertilizer device and filters they say the fabric last two years

I love the blumat drippers. They are amazing and you will see increased growth. I made a forest in my 5x5 after going away for two weeks. Loaded up my 5gal gravity fed jugs with food and off I left them. I actually had to cull everything because I couldn't flower in that tent.... they got too big.

 

[420PyRoS]

One trick I learned with the gravity system is to add an extra line, basically to create an inner circle or infinity symbol with the hose. It will level out the pressure/flow so all the carrots get even pressure. Like this:

View attachment 18957150

I do this too!

 

[420PyRoS]

Tropf Blumat Watering System

Tropf-Blumat is an automatic watering system. This water-saving drip irrigation system works without electricity and without an app and is controlled by the porous clay cones. You don’t even need a permanent water supply to water plants automatically. Indoors, the best watering options are the...

indoorfarmer.ca

This is where I got all my blumat connectors etc in Canada in case someone see's this and has a hard time finding parts etc.

It's pricey but man... saved my ass so many times being away for a week plus.

 

[Crooked8]

Ebb and flow is just so damn easy. Fill a res once a week and add nutes. Top up here and there. Drain it once a week. Set a timer for floods. Easy as hell.