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Please help a noob out.

DogTooth

New member
Hey guys. Noob here. I'm about 8 weeks in with this kuai electric from ocean grown seed.

Happy frog soil 3 gal pot. Well water with biocanna nutrients fish sh!t recharge and cal mag every other watering pH around 6.2 I gave a compost tea last week and have seen little improvement. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. thank you for your time
 

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acespicoli

Well-known member
catch some down spout rain water in buckets if possible,
and dont smoke no more fan leaves until your dog tooth falls out ;)
Try to flip back to veg and run bigger pots or repot on the reveg
got any bugs in the dirt ?
1699843571548.png

seen any fruit flies ? gnats ?
cut a slice of potato and lay it flat on the soil check under it once a day :huggg:
 

TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
Hey guys. Noob here. I'm about 8 weeks in with this kuai electric from ocean grown seed.

Happy frog soil 3 gal pot. Well water with biocanna nutrients fish sh!t recharge and cal mag every other watering pH around 6.2 I gave a compost tea last week and have seen little improvement. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. thank you for your time
That looks like some magnesium related thing.

Too much, soil too hot, etc.

Fox Farm is already pretty hot.

Basically more information is needed:

- medium
- nutrients, frequency of feeding, nutrient concentration, pH
- water source, pH and PPM/EC

The more information the better.
 

Eltitoguay

Well-known member
I'm sorry I can't help, since I'm an outdoor animal...; but just out of curiosity: What type of mastiffs are those in the photo? They don't look like English... Spanish or Turkish, perhaps?
Good luck with your grow.
 

Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
You are burning your plants by adding fertilizer to the water too early. Using Happy Frog or Ocean Forest one should only use water for the first 6 weeks with no runoff. IF you add fertilizer before then you will burn the plants.
 

Ca++

Well-known member
Do you know the EC or pH of the water?

It sounds like you have grown alright before, and the only change is water. Is that right?

At a glance, I see green tops and failing older growth. This speaks of relocation. A mobile element of the feed, being taken from older growth, to support new growth. Someone spoke of Mg. The red stem is a good sign of Mg. There is some chevrons that are often Mg. The yellowing die back from the tips that immediately makes us think of N, can just as easily be Mg, when it's this severe.

A soil feed like Canna, may not even contain Ca or Mg. The soil should provide it, though lets be fair, I have to add calmag or I can't get it to work.
Calmag is really a calcium supplement. Calcium antagonises Mg though, so when adding Ca we have to add some Mg to keep it in line. The small print will also point to Fe in your calmag, as it to is pushed out by calcium. This is why we buy cal, with mag already mixed together.
If we step back for a moment and look again at the well, it might be very high in Ca, but offer no Mg. The well water alone, could be bringing in so much Ca, that your Mg is being pushed out. There is another player to. You are using fish sh!t, and iirc that brings extra K. The second most likely reason for Mg issues, despite Mg being present.

You may find it better not to use additives, except mgso. Or you may also need to mix your well water with something cleaner. Though right now, I have no idea if your well is actually hard water.
 

DogTooth

New member
I'm sorry I can't help, since I'm an outdoor animal...; but just out of curiosity: What type of mastiffs are those in the photo? They don't look like English... Spanish or Turkish, perhaps?
Good luck with your grow.
Good eye. Anatolian Shepards. I picked them up in Sile, Turkey.
 

DogTooth

New member
Do you know the EC or pH of the water?

It sounds like you have grown alright before, and the only change is water. Is that right?

At a glance, I see green tops and failing older growth. This speaks of relocation. A mobile element of the feed, being taken from older growth, to support new growth. Someone spoke of Mg. The red stem is a good sign of Mg. There is some chevrons that are often Mg. The yellowing die back from the tips that immediately makes us think of N, can just as easily be Mg, when it's this severe.

A soil feed like Canna, may not even contain Ca or Mg. The soil should provide it, though lets be fair, I have to add calmag or I can't get it to work.
Calmag is really a calcium supplement. Calcium antagonises Mg though, so when adding Ca we have to add some Mg to keep it in line. The small print will also point to Fe in your calmag, as it to is pushed out by calcium. This is why we buy cal, with mag already mixed together.
If we step back for a moment and look again at the well, it might be very high in Ca, but offer no Mg. The well water alone, could be bringing in so much Ca, that your Mg is being pushed out. There is another player to. You are using fish sh!t, and iirc that brings extra K. The second most likely reason for Mg issues, despite Mg being present.

You may find it better not to use additives, except m
gso. Or you may also need to mix your well water with something cleaner. Though right now, I have no idea if your well is actually hard water.
Thank you for your in depth response! I took a long detailed video and showed it to the owner of my local garden shop (an hour and a half away)

He noticed revegetation on the plant as well and noticed my other plant doing good. His conclusion ended up being poor genetics. Do you agree with that possibility?
 

Ca++

Well-known member
I missed the fact you had another plant looking fine. Which for your grow, would make this one inferiour. Though I'm not sure the plant would be bad in everybodies situation.
 

DogTooth

New member
I missed the fact you had another plant looking fine. Which for your grow, would make this one inferiour. Though I'm not sure the plant would be bad in everybodies situation.
It's my fault. I need to learn how to explain my issues better and give proper setting to the situation. I appreciate your feedback and taking the time to respond to my post.
 

singlecoiled

Active member
I like Happy Frog/gnat and have used it many times, but something odd starts to happen after a few months. Ive been on other forums and it was mentioned that the spaghum moss may start to break down after a while causing PH problems. For me, my PH dropped from 6.5 to 5.0 over time and that's lockout land.

Thought I was overfeeding first run with Happy Frog, nope. It was PH issues. 2nd try I feed so lightly that my plants were starving. PH still got way too low after a few months.

If I were you, I'd let it dry out a bit, water, check runnoff PH/ EC (Mainly PH this is critical) and if the PH is off flush with 5-8 gallons of good water. I'm betting your runoff will show high acididity. (low PH)

Side note: Fox Farm is great soil that many love. I really think it depends a lot on were you live. Fox Farm Happy Frog and Ocean Forest has a terrrible reputation here on the east coast of the US. Many of the nurseries in my area recommend AGAINST using either... Its reputation is horrible here. Its also loaded with fungus gnats almost guaranteed....(I boil it now before use)

We call it Happy Gnat here on the east coast !
 

Rgd

Well-known member
Veteran
He noticed revegetation on the plant as well and noticed my other plant doing good. His conclusion ended up being poor genetics. Do you agree with that possibility?


no.



quote 808 website

Kauai Electric was bred on the North Shore of Kauai and grown exclusively by one grower called "Jonesy." It's a fast flowering strain with an amazing sativa head rush.

>sounds good
 
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Chevy cHaze

Out Of Dankness Cometh Light
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Hey how's it going
I'd check ppm of the well water it sounds like this is the biggest unknown variable in your equation

Good luck!
CC
 

Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
I like Happy Frog/gnat and have used it many times, but something odd starts to happen after a few months. Ive been on other forums and it was mentioned that the spaghum moss may start to break down after a while causing PH problems. For me, my PH dropped from 6.5 to 5.0 over time and that's lockout land.

Thought I was overfeeding first run with Happy Frog, nope. It was PH issues. 2nd try I feed so lightly that my plants were starving. PH still got way too low after a few months.

If I were you, I'd let it dry out a bit, water, check runnoff PH/ EC (Mainly PH this is critical) and if the PH is off flush with 5-8 gallons of good water. I'm betting your runoff will show high acididity. (low PH)

Side note: Fox Farm is great soil that many love. I really think it depends a lot on were you live. Fox Farm Happy Frog and Ocean Forest has a terrrible reputation here on the east coast of the US. Many of the nurseries in my area recommend AGAINST using either... Its reputation is horrible here. Its also loaded with fungus gnats almost guaranteed....(I boil it now before use)

We call it Happy Gnat here on the east coast !
If you add nutrients to the mix instead of water only you will drop the pH. Also, you are right except it is not peat moss that drops the pH, it is the aged forest products and excess added nutrients that cause the pH drop.

Ocean forest is a water-only mix.
 

singlecoiled

Active member
If you add nutrients to the mix instead of water only you will drop the pH. Also, you are right except it is not peat moss that drops the pH, it is the aged forest products and excess added nutrients that cause the pH drop.

Ocean forest is a water-only mix.

I tried to use ocean forest twice, something was really wrong with the batch I got. When watered it smelled like raw sewage, (right out of the bag). It was so bad, I had to use a carbon filter to remove the smell. According to many nurseries and hydro shops here on the east coast US, Fox Farm aint what it used to be and something is off. You can still get a good bag of soil, but its a gamble here if you ask me. Consistency is not something you can count on with Fox Farm.

I gave up as a new grower using Ocean Forest, and moved to Happy Frog. Much better results, but loaded with fungus gnats. PH drops could be me and salt build up but I feed lightly to runoff every feeding... In any case, I would use Happy Frog again but I'm considering moving to another brand. Currently using Coco Loco which is Fox Farm soil and Coco.

Boil and bake all Fox Farm soil to 180 degrees, or get yourself some BTI. I almost guarantee fungus gnats if you buy Fox Farm Soil on the East Coast US... ( and god knows what other pests might be included)
 

TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
If you have problems with fungus gnats, there are several things to consider.

1. Heat your soil in the sun, using black binliners.

If you have a place with full sun, just put your soil in binliners and spread it to about 2 or 3 inches wide, and let the heat of the sun do it's thing. Just leave them out for a week, and turn them over too.

2. Get nematodes

There are some fungus gnat specific nematodes you can use to reduce their numbers.

3. Make a fermentation from sprouted hempseeds and sugar or honey

Grow out some hempseeds from a fishing bate shop. Fill a container (I use a bourbon bottle) to 1/5 with the microgreens, and add water with raw sugar or honey dissolved in it. Put a fermentation lock on that (I like to use water with some H202 or hydrogenperoxide added to the water in the fermentation lock to prevent any fungal growth or the water going off).

Put it away for at least a week - the longer the better, it's still good after a year. Use one bottle cap per quart of water. You can spray it on and add it to the feed.

It has no NPK footprint so it doesn't raise the EC or PPM. It is acidic, being a fermented product, so don't use too much of it for pH reasons. Which by the way is easily remedied by watering with plain water.

What this does, is:

- cover the plants and environment with microbes that are beneficial to cannabis

This helps limit insect damage, because insects are now tracking around beneficial bacteria rather than mildew, for instance. Much of the damage done by mites, is from the fact that they also track around mildew.

- feed sugars to the mycorrhizal fungi and endophytic fungi that protect the plant from other fungi and bacteria, even leaf miners, which it kills in a day.

- spraying also cleans the leaves from insects, mildew and dust

You can get quite far against most insect infestations by working from the top of the plant down and giving every node 5 seconds of a strong spray, starting at the inside of the plant, and then the same for the outside of the plant.

Alternatively, hold the plant upside down and spray the plant node by node, working downwards.
Working with gravity, you can get rid of a lot of the insects and make it easier for predators to gain the upper hand.
 

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