G
Guest
hi everyone these are my plants in 6ins pots in bio bizz soil 22days from seed.watered but only feed twice is the yellowing caused by under feeding cheers alza...... 
-
As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.
they look overwatered.. let those babies breath and you may not continue to have a problem. its a lot easier to diagnose the difference between underfeeding and overfed nute burn if the other potential culprits like overwatering, underwatering, and ph balancing are all covered. in this case it could be underfed.. could just be unhappy cause it can't move nutes correctly if it can't breath correctly or because the ph is locking up nutes in the soil
let me know how often you water.. how you decide when you water.. and also how much nutes (measurement and percentage of recommended stregth) you fed them. also what kind of soil mix you have including ammendments and inert makeup. most good soils can be good for 2 weeks from seed as far as feeding goes and then you will start to give them lose doses of ferts. if you already fed twice at 22 days you may have overfed a bit or thrown off the ph.
let me know how often you water.. how you decide when you water.. and also how much nutes (measurement and percentage of recommended stregth) you fed them. also what kind of soil mix you have including ammendments and inert makeup. most good soils can be good for 2 weeks from seed as far as feeding goes and then you will start to give them lose doses of ferts. if you already fed twice at 22 days you may have overfed a bit or thrown off the ph.
Last edited:
G
Guest
plants need help
plants need help
hi thanx for quick reply.heres what i did grew plants in rockwool for about a week before they went into soil (bio bizz soil)once in soil only gave small amounts of water every 3 days. then i was told water them until you see some run off and only water when dry so thats what i am doing now?only feed them twice with bio grow 1mil per ltr.as you can see they are not very big and growth is slow..leaves are still wilting from watering 1 day ago.grow room temp is 76f with 48% humidity if you can help that would be superb....
plants need help
hi thanx for quick reply.heres what i did grew plants in rockwool for about a week before they went into soil (bio bizz soil)once in soil only gave small amounts of water every 3 days. then i was told water them until you see some run off and only water when dry so thats what i am doing now?only feed them twice with bio grow 1mil per ltr.as you can see they are not very big and growth is slow..leaves are still wilting from watering 1 day ago.grow room temp is 76f with 48% humidity if you can help that would be superb....
wannabeebreeder
Member
what strain you got growing there bro
G
Guest
female seeds
female seeds
hi i have 3 ice 3 easybud and 1 white russian...cheers alza..
female seeds
hi i have 3 ice 3 easybud and 1 white russian...cheers alza..
so your soil mix is all from a bagged soil? no addatives or ammendments?
most of the time the most crucial problem with a straight bagged soil mix is they are quite prone to becoming compacted and when this happens it takes longer for the water to evaporate and get sucked up into the plant. this makes for a longer time between when you water and when oxygen can penetrate the soil effectively and allow the plant to breath. most growers add a good amount 25%-50% perlite to their soils to help with drainage and breathability. this is highly recommended and will allow you to drench the plants completely and still have enough oxygen moving back into the soil so they don't ever get 'droopy' over watering looks. overwatering will slow growth and cause stress. even humans can overwater themselves if you drink too much haha. another way to avoid consequences of overwatering is to drill some extra drain holes in the bottom of the pots to help let more oxygen get up in there and water to drain out faster.
also i believe it is good practice to always keep soil as 'loose' as possible. expecially when planting and transplanting. you always want to toss your soil into your container and just let it fall in there. when you stick your plant in you can do some gentle compacting around the roots and trunk stem but you never want to smash it all down and compact the soil together. a lot of people squish all the soil down.. this will not help with breathability.
your watering methods sound good.. it is true you want to let the water come out of the bottom holes of the pots every once in a while but there is not a proven need to drench the plants everytime. smaller amounts of water can work too. i use the 'lift-the-pot' method to test dryness and it works great. just know what your pots feel like completely drenched and completely dry and you'll always know when to water.
so onto feeding.. if you have no ammendments in the soil as far as nutrients (such as blood/bone meal or kelps or guanos which some people add to the mix before they plant to give some inititial food and slow release food) or as far as buffering ph (most common is to add a tablespoon or two per gallon of dolomite lime which keeps the ph of the soil pulled up to 7 if it is becoming anything lower) you may have some underfeeding going on.. but you need to look into keeping a healthier watering cycle and a balanced ph first and foremost so we know its not lockouts and stress from either of those causing the yellowing.
point is you have some things to adjust and if you can get some better consistency into your soil things will probably clear up on their own. if you find that even when properly watered and in ph balanced soil the plants still exhibit slow yellowing you likely have a small N deficiency cause by lack of N in the soil itself (instead of having N but its just locked out). in only that case would i increase the nutrient concentration.
hope this helps.. take care alza
most of the time the most crucial problem with a straight bagged soil mix is they are quite prone to becoming compacted and when this happens it takes longer for the water to evaporate and get sucked up into the plant. this makes for a longer time between when you water and when oxygen can penetrate the soil effectively and allow the plant to breath. most growers add a good amount 25%-50% perlite to their soils to help with drainage and breathability. this is highly recommended and will allow you to drench the plants completely and still have enough oxygen moving back into the soil so they don't ever get 'droopy' over watering looks. overwatering will slow growth and cause stress. even humans can overwater themselves if you drink too much haha. another way to avoid consequences of overwatering is to drill some extra drain holes in the bottom of the pots to help let more oxygen get up in there and water to drain out faster.
also i believe it is good practice to always keep soil as 'loose' as possible. expecially when planting and transplanting. you always want to toss your soil into your container and just let it fall in there. when you stick your plant in you can do some gentle compacting around the roots and trunk stem but you never want to smash it all down and compact the soil together. a lot of people squish all the soil down.. this will not help with breathability.
your watering methods sound good.. it is true you want to let the water come out of the bottom holes of the pots every once in a while but there is not a proven need to drench the plants everytime. smaller amounts of water can work too. i use the 'lift-the-pot' method to test dryness and it works great. just know what your pots feel like completely drenched and completely dry and you'll always know when to water.
so onto feeding.. if you have no ammendments in the soil as far as nutrients (such as blood/bone meal or kelps or guanos which some people add to the mix before they plant to give some inititial food and slow release food) or as far as buffering ph (most common is to add a tablespoon or two per gallon of dolomite lime which keeps the ph of the soil pulled up to 7 if it is becoming anything lower) you may have some underfeeding going on.. but you need to look into keeping a healthier watering cycle and a balanced ph first and foremost so we know its not lockouts and stress from either of those causing the yellowing.
point is you have some things to adjust and if you can get some better consistency into your soil things will probably clear up on their own. if you find that even when properly watered and in ph balanced soil the plants still exhibit slow yellowing you likely have a small N deficiency cause by lack of N in the soil itself (instead of having N but its just locked out). in only that case would i increase the nutrient concentration.
hope this helps.. take care alza
Last edited:
G
Guest
bio bizz soil
bio bizz soil
hi thanx .the soil i use has 20% sphagnum pet moss.35%garden peat.10% worm humus.30% perlite.5% dry fertilizer. thanx for reply...alza
http://www.growell.co.uk/p/0784/Bio_Bizz_All_Mix_Soil.html
bio bizz soil
hi thanx .the soil i use has 20% sphagnum pet moss.35%garden peat.10% worm humus.30% perlite.5% dry fertilizer. thanx for reply...alza
http://www.growell.co.uk/p/0784/Bio_Bizz_All_Mix_Soil.html
Last edited:
G
Guest
female seeds
female seeds
hi gangabiss i did notice purple stems.i will give 2ml per ltr next watering will post pics with results..all the best alza....
female seeds
hi gangabiss i did notice purple stems.i will give 2ml per ltr next watering will post pics with results..all the best alza....
Laxpunker
Active member
ALZA06 said:hi thanx .the soil i use has 20% sphagnum pet moss.35%garden peat.10% worm humus.30% perlite.5% dry fertilizer. thanx for reply...alza
http://www.growell.co.uk/p/0784/Bio_Bizz_All_Mix_Soil.html
Might want to wait for someone a bit more well 'respected', however it looks like your soil mix is fairly acidic. This could prevent problems down the line.
Did you add any dolomite lime to the soil?
Another question, what's in the Bio Grow? I'm not familiar with it, and it looks like your problem is due to overwatering and some sort of defiency.
G
Guest
bio bizz
bio bizz
hi no i did not add anything to soil (all mix ) has e.c of 2.4 and.ph of 6.2 to 6.6..cheers alza
bio bizz
hi no i did not add anything to soil (all mix ) has e.c of 2.4 and.ph of 6.2 to 6.6..cheers alza
G
Guest
update of plants
update of plants
hi everyone update of pics.well i let them dry out and gave some nutrients dont think they will get any better they look as if they are getting worse.....
so if anyone can help cool.because i am going to grow for 1 more week then i will cut them down if any worse
update of plants
hi everyone update of pics.well i let them dry out and gave some nutrients dont think they will get any better they look as if they are getting worse.....
so if anyone can help cool.because i am going to grow for 1 more week then i will cut them down if any worse 
WhamoBlamo
Member
I would take the plant out of the container and check the roots for discoloration or smell if they don't look healthy maybe transplant into more perlite to get some air moving, fungicide?
First thing you should do is check the ph of every thing...Your soil mixture ph? You can use the link in my signature for directions on testing. Are you adjusting the ph of your fert water after mixing? What is the ph of the water your using before adding anything? Those purple stems and leaf petioles might suggest a phosphorus deficiency.
Last edited:
G
Guest
plants need help
plants need help
hi thanx for reply the water is 8 and put nutrients in and adjusted with ph down to 5.6 sorry cant ph soil my ph meter dosent come back till tuesday..cheers alza...
plants need help
hi thanx for reply the water is 8 and put nutrients in and adjusted with ph down to 5.6 sorry cant ph soil my ph meter dosent come back till tuesday..cheers alza...
How do you know that your ph was 5.6 in your fert water if your ph meter broke? You should adjust the fert water ph after mixing to about 6. 5.6 is kinda low. 8 ph water to start is really high. It must contain calcium carbonate. This would be adding alot of calcium. At a high ph, calcium phosphate begins to form and this might cause a phosphorus deficiency. This could be the source of your stems and petioles being purple. (It could just be genetic though) Alot of calcium could also cause a deficiency of potassium and magnesium with magnesium being the first affected. What acid are you using to adjust your fert water down? If its phosphoric acid then my phosphorus deficiency "theory" might not apply. Here is what the aquaman2112 grow guide says: http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=24496&highlight=aquaman2112
Last edited:
G
Guest
plants
plants
hi thanx for quick reply i have a small liqiud ph tester.i have been using bio bizz.but i have other feed 3 part hydro feed but it says can be used in soil at half strengh plus.think maybe i should use 3 part...cheers alza
p.s the acid is phosphoric
plants
hi thanx for quick reply i have a small liqiud ph tester.i have been using bio bizz.but i have other feed 3 part hydro feed but it says can be used in soil at half strengh plus.think maybe i should use 3 part...cheers alza
p.s the acid is phosphoric
Last edited:
Bio grow is low in phosphorus. I might try a dose of something with a ratio of 1-1-1. Testing the soil ph tuesday when you get your meter will give you a better idea of what is going on. What I would do is use the pour through method of testing soil ph. Adding some distilled water to your already wet pot till you get a slight runoff. The directions are in my signature. I bet you could put this liquid in your liquid ph test kit and get a general idea today. 
You can filter the runoff with a coffee filter if you want to get it clearer in color before testing.
You can filter the runoff with a coffee filter if you want to get it clearer in color before testing.
