Picture and question: 4k cooling via mini-split AC

[tact1]

So here is the pic:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwXvuunYt2lnRm9qa1pqcXQxZW8/view?usp=sharing

I am thinking of removing the partition wall between the two 2k rooms, and just using one AC in the room. This picture features mr slim dual-zone 12k btu in each sectioned off 6x8 flower room. Another option would be a single room with all 4k lights and a single mr slim 15k, say. The 400w is the veg area, the two 2k rooms are flower rooms. So the light cycle is not affected if I merge the two rooms into one larger flower room.

Thoughts?

This for thew two room setup:

https://www.goductless.com/Mitsubis...-Pump/19672.ac?catId=cat9654&mainCat=&subCat=

This for the one room setup:

https://www.goductless.com/Mitsubis...nd&subCat=cat7275&trail=24575:12,001 - 18,000

or higher end, 21 seer;

https://www.goductless.com/Mitsubis...nd&subCat=cat7275&trail=24575:12,001 - 18,000

 

[Granger2]

Are your lamps air cooled? I think you are at the minimum for AC unless you have very cool Summers. I'd prefer to have some extra AC capacity. Good luck. -granger

 

[tact1]

Are your lamps air cooled? I think you are at the minimum for AC unless you have very cool Summers. I'd prefer to have some extra AC capacity. Good luck. -granger

Yes they are air cooled.

 

[tact1]

Are your lamps air cooled? I think you are at the minimum for AC unless you have very cool Summers. I'd prefer to have some extra AC capacity. Good luck. -granger

Damn, I still can't edit.

I have very HOT summers. One air cooled 1k with no AC and temps can reach 90 at canopy and 75 by soil in my current setup.

 

[tact1]

No input, hmm I wonder If i should copy-paste this thread in the main discussion forums for exposure.

 

[DAVES NOT HERE]

i would suggest not running your light air cooled. Take the glass out, seal the room. Buy a 2ton, 24K BTU mini split, dehuey, co2 and call it a day. And INSULATE WELL. if you have HOT summers it will fucking suck.

 

[the gnome]

i would suggest not running your light air cooled. Take the glass out, seal the room. Buy a 2ton, 24K BTU mini split, dehuey, co2 and call it a day. And INSULATE WELL. if you have HOT summers it will fucking suck.

thats a plan

 

[tact1]

i would suggest not running your light air cooled. Take the glass out, seal the room. Buy a 2ton, 24K BTU mini split, dehuey, co2 and call it a day. And INSULATE WELL. if you have HOT summers it will fucking suck.

Word. I don't know anything about co2. Why would air cooled be bad, air from the the room moving over the lights then out of the house all together? Take the glass out because of losing lumens or somethings? I am leaning towards a 24k single 4k room. Wouldn't taking the rooms air over the lights and then out of the house reduce the heat buildup dramatically over letting them run with no active air over the bulbs? The summers here are very, very hot and very humid. In my current setup I use a 2k setup with air-cooled hoods exiting into the room itself as a heater (winter), then outside when it starts to warm up/before it scools down (spring/fall).

 

[tact1]

Oh wait, don't air cool because all the cold air the AC just pushed out will over get sucked over the lights and then out of the house? If so, that makes sense.

 

[the gnome]

get Co2, its definitely worth learning when you see what your plants give you in return.
and yes, you lose lite through the glass w/air cooled hoods.
a std. rule is 5000btu per 1000w of lite. and this covers equipment in the room.
4000w of lites cooled with a 24,000btu mini split will give you a nice chunk of headroom but too much is not good.

using a mini split no air gets sucked out, just recirculated.

 

[DAVES NOT HERE]

while air cooling does reduce your heat load, it also presents additional problems. Even with a Dust shroom, the glass gets dirty fast. I think you loose 10% even with the glass CLEAN, add dirt and it drops a lot. more risk form pathogens, bugs, etc. even the best ducting has pin holes all over. 1 room 4k sealed and dial that room. I am rebuilding something similiar and all i am thinking about is how to insulate the best possible.

 

[tact1]

Sweet, I mean tat would be easier and less holes. I am not in a position to utilize or finance co2 at this time, this room in general is a big step-up for my domestic use and my better-half might give me a stinkier eye than usual if I announce I am bringing co2 into the house and it will be under our babies befdroom.

Sooo. Less the co2, same advice?

 

[Billy Liar]

Years ago, when I first tried cool tubes, the advice was to NOT suck the air from the room through the cool tubes/sealed hoods. But to suck fresh air from outside with a fan, the fan should then PUSH the air through the air cooled lighting system, and out of the building. This means the air cooled lighting system is a CLOSED system and does not interfere with your rooms climate etc. The reason for pushing the air is so the fan runs at lower temps increasing longevity of the fan. The down side of this method is that you'll need 4 holes in the building as opposed to the standard 2 holes for intake/extract. This will drastically improve how you can control the environment and avoid going completely sealed. Also saves the investment into the co2 monitoring and distribution equipment. You may find this allows you to move less air through your room and make use of the ac that you already have.

Still I'm not a fan of light behind glass, due to lumen drop off.

But this is the way it was explained to me and I've seen it work.

Peace
BL

 

[queequeg152]

4 lights is around 12kbtuh, if you dump all of the heat into the conditioned space.

you need to do a heat gain calculation on your room to determine if 18kbtuh is going to be enough for you.

dont oversize your ac. dehumidification will suffer.

 

[tact1]

4 lights is around 12kbtuh, if you dump all of the heat into the conditioned space.

you need to do a heat gain calculation on your room to determine if 18kbtuh is going to be enough for you.

dont oversize your ac. dehumidification will suffer.

Heat gain calculation. Hmm. So in you opinion if you ran 4k light with no air cooling, 12kbtu AC will keep the room 70~? And going over 18kbtu risk humidity problems as it is too powerful for the space and will turn on and shut off at different intervals than a smaller more appropriately sized AC?

 

[tact1]

Years ago, when I first tried cool tubes, the advice was to NOT suck the air from the room through the cool tubes/sealed hoods. But to suck fresh air from outside with a fan, the fan should then PUSH the air through the air cooled lighting system, and out of the building. This means the air cooled lighting system is a CLOSED system and does not interfere with your rooms climate etc. The reason for pushing the air is so the fan runs at lower temps increasing longevity of the fan. The down side of this method is that you'll need 4 holes in the building as opposed to the standard 2 holes for intake/extract. This will drastically improve how you can control the environment and avoid going completely sealed. Also saves the investment into the co2 monitoring and distribution equipment. You may find this allows you to move less air through your room and make use of the ac that you already have.

Still I'm not a fan of light behind glass, due to lumen drop off.

But this is the way it was explained to me and I've seen it work.

Peace
BL

Wouldn't I be introducing all kinds of bugs and debris sucking air from outside, over 4k lights with no glass, then back outside (closed system)? I am ok with four holes being in my house, I guess I just need to think of an excuse to tell the contractor in the new place as to why he would be drilling four 6" holes in the exterior walls in such a small place. Another concern is vibrations, I read that the AC vibrates like a mug if not on a concrete wall or something because of the relative low absorption of vibration by relatively light drywall, or something.

 

[luxcultivars]

4 lights is around 12kbtuh, if you dump all of the heat into the conditioned space.

you need to do a heat gain calculation on your room to determine if 18kbtuh is going to be enough for you.

dont oversize your ac. dehumidification will suffer.

Question: don't most mini-splits have low-medium-high output settings? You don't have to run an 18k at a full 18k all the time, right? I always see specs showing variable output ranges, such as 'has an operating range of 7k through 18k'. No?

 

[tact1]

Question: don't most mini-splits have low-medium-high output settings? You don't have to run an 18k at a full 18k all the time, right? I always see specs showing variable output ranges, such as 'has an operating range of 7k through 18k'. No?

This is what was making me think of a 24k btu over a 12k or 18k, turn it down if its too much? I get where he is coming from with the humidity though, I recall hearing the same about too large of an AC used for a house, it starts and shuts of abruptly leaving wonky humidity, over say a more appropriate sized AC (possibly high?).

 

[luxcultivars]

This is what was making me think of a 24k btu over a 12k or 18k, turn it down if its too much? I get where he is coming from with the humidity though, I recall hearing the same about too large of an AC used for a house, it starts and shuts of abruptly leaving wonky humidity, over say a more appropriate sized AC (possibly high?).

It's a pretty key question. There are also some differences between mini-splits and ac-onlys that could factor into it. The minis sure are efficient.

 

[M.R.GT]

to large of an AC unit will cause it to short cycle. Get cold to quick and shut down before it can remove the humidity.