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ph is 7.0
- Thread starter lotatokin
- Start date
G
Guest
what kind of nurients are you mixing to it if any?
G
Guest
yes i would lower the ph
Babombeez
Active member
I would think that as soon as you add those nutrients to the tap water that since those nutrients most likely have a lower pH than it will also lower the pH of your water... For example my tap water is 8.3 here, now when I add my Earth Juice nutes it takes the pH down to 4.0, so then I have to add pH up to take my pH to about 6.6...
Good luck...
Beez
Good luck...
Beez
Nutes should stabilise pH...
Blackvelvet
Member
Adjust the ph of the fertilizer water after everything is added. Fertilize weakly with every watering. 20% of what you pour on the plant should come out the bottom. You want runoff 
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PH 7.0 isnt bad right outta the tap mine is 7.2-7.3
i alternate nutrient feedings 1 water is plain PH adjusted watering the next will have ferts in the water also. i'll add all my ferts to each gal of water then check the PH and adjust acordingly. when i use plain water i use 1/4 tsp mad farmer PH down per gal water this brings my water's PH to 6.4-6.5 if i heap the tsp it'll be 6.4. when i add the ferts i use i only need like 3 squirts from the eye dropper i use to attain 6.5 PH. for soil 6.5 PH is about optimum for all of veg and most of flower. last 2-3 wks of flower i'll drop PH to 6.3 esp during the flush as BV mentioned ya water untill runoff is achieved 15-20% of what gose in should come back out drainage. this is so the excess salts from the ferts used take longer to build up they will over time if ya dont achieve runoff.
while back i ran a test on fox farm ferts and how each 1 effects the waters PH
1tsp of FF grow big droped my waters PH .05
1tsp tiger bloom did same
big bloom didnt effect the waters PH
alot of ferts effect the waters PH hence tis best to add ferts then adjust water PH from there.
how i water and how i judge when to water
quite easy after i plant something in fresh soil FF ocean forrest is moist so i dont water untill next day. i water untill runoff is just achieved then stop and move to next plant, ya know what the plant feels like dry so when drainage stops. i'll lift the container this is my plants approx full watered weight, everyday i'll lift container you'll feel it become lighter. when it feels empty dry but plants not droopn water again, i start off in 3x3x3 inch conatienr for flowers. iw ater then 3 days later again then every 2 days most of the time for next 10.then i transplant again into 2 liter soda bottle same regime 10-14 days transplant into 1 gal bags and off to flower. my plants grow very nice root masses this way i dont let them dry all the way out but the feel light maybe 15-20% moisture left.
i alternate nutrient feedings 1 water is plain PH adjusted watering the next will have ferts in the water also. i'll add all my ferts to each gal of water then check the PH and adjust acordingly. when i use plain water i use 1/4 tsp mad farmer PH down per gal water this brings my water's PH to 6.4-6.5 if i heap the tsp it'll be 6.4. when i add the ferts i use i only need like 3 squirts from the eye dropper i use to attain 6.5 PH. for soil 6.5 PH is about optimum for all of veg and most of flower. last 2-3 wks of flower i'll drop PH to 6.3 esp during the flush as BV mentioned ya water untill runoff is achieved 15-20% of what gose in should come back out drainage. this is so the excess salts from the ferts used take longer to build up they will over time if ya dont achieve runoff.
while back i ran a test on fox farm ferts and how each 1 effects the waters PH
1tsp of FF grow big droped my waters PH .05
1tsp tiger bloom did same
big bloom didnt effect the waters PH
alot of ferts effect the waters PH hence tis best to add ferts then adjust water PH from there.
how i water and how i judge when to water
quite easy after i plant something in fresh soil FF ocean forrest is moist so i dont water untill next day. i water untill runoff is just achieved then stop and move to next plant, ya know what the plant feels like dry so when drainage stops. i'll lift the container this is my plants approx full watered weight, everyday i'll lift container you'll feel it become lighter. when it feels empty dry but plants not droopn water again, i start off in 3x3x3 inch conatienr for flowers. iw ater then 3 days later again then every 2 days most of the time for next 10.then i transplant again into 2 liter soda bottle same regime 10-14 days transplant into 1 gal bags and off to flower. my plants grow very nice root masses this way i dont let them dry all the way out but the feel light maybe 15-20% moisture left.
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TrustNoOne
Member
what are you testing it with?
It depends....is your tapwater reading 7.0 after the nutes have been added and sat out for 24 hours or is it just plain tap water that comes out to a pH of 7 after sitting out for 24 hours?
If it's the first then no you don't need to lower it although I find 6.5 pH to be best in soil 7.0 is just as good as it is neutral pH meaning roots are getting best of both worlds.
Now if it's just plain tap water sitting for 24 hours with no nutes added and the pH comes out to 7.0 then you will need to buy some pH up when you add flowering nutes as most flowering nutes will have a 4.0-5.0 pH.
When I get my tap I add 1-2 tsp of FF Tiger Bloom and that drops the pH to 4.0-5.0 meaning I have to use a little pH up to get my water/nute solution to 6.5-7.0 pH.
If it's the first then no you don't need to lower it although I find 6.5 pH to be best in soil 7.0 is just as good as it is neutral pH meaning roots are getting best of both worlds.
Now if it's just plain tap water sitting for 24 hours with no nutes added and the pH comes out to 7.0 then you will need to buy some pH up when you add flowering nutes as most flowering nutes will have a 4.0-5.0 pH.
When I get my tap I add 1-2 tsp of FF Tiger Bloom and that drops the pH to 4.0-5.0 meaning I have to use a little pH up to get my water/nute solution to 6.5-7.0 pH.
I have no idea. I'm growing in a "soilless" mix and I still don't know exactly what to do. I think I'll be doing 6.8 from here on in though.
I'd say your PH uptake thing would be closer to the right side of the chart though. Ask in the coco forums, they might have a little better knowledge.
A little off topic: How do you like the coco FFOF mix? I just got some FFOF, and mixed it with a little potting mix I had leftover. It's still way too heavy in my opinion, I'd like it to drain about twice as quick as it does now. I was going to get a few bags of perlite, I hadn't even considered coco.
I'd say your PH uptake thing would be closer to the right side of the chart though. Ask in the coco forums, they might have a little better knowledge.
A little off topic: How do you like the coco FFOF mix? I just got some FFOF, and mixed it with a little potting mix I had leftover. It's still way too heavy in my opinion, I'd like it to drain about twice as quick as it does now. I was going to get a few bags of perlite, I hadn't even considered coco.
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redslayer187
Member
Lemon juice will lower the pH but you will also notice that if you let it sit out the pH will go right where it started. At least that is the experience I have had with lemon juice. Although with soil or soiless mixes it sounds like you should be good. I didn't use it in soil I was running hydro.
For coco growers I believe the ideal pH range is 5.8~6.0 right inbetween the hydro and soil.
For coco growers I believe the ideal pH range is 5.8~6.0 right inbetween the hydro and soil.
redslayer187 said:
You are CORRECT!!.. during veg and early flower.. more towards 5.8 two weeks into flower and longer.. more towards the 6.0
Peace
B
Blunted22
hey man if your running soil yoo should try mixing in some dolimite lime into your soil its a ph buffer. I use it and still ph my water but ive read threads on people doing ph tests with dolomite lime runoof in soil and they tried as low as like 3ph and as high as 9 and on every one the ph was like 6.8 so that might help ya
