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Ph and ec problems in hydroponics.

rainito

New member
Hi all guys, I'm new to the forum but I've been following you for years and thanks to you, I've always solved my problems without having to bother you. Let's get to the point and I'll introduce you to my setup:

Growroom: 100x100x200cm
Lighting: enfun 1000 LED ceiling light (100 watts)
Hydroponic system: Atami Wilma 4 11L pots and 50 liters tank. I use 70/80% reverse osmosis water and the remainder tap water.
Plants: Watermelon Zkittlezz from Barney's Farm
pH and EC measurement system constantly immersed in the tank and automatic dosing with peristaltic pump for any corrections. (I only use it to correct the pH).
Humidifier and dehumidifier with inkbird correction system.
Temperature controlled by the inkbird system via stove or extractor that introduces fresh air from the outside.
During the daylight hours I leave three PC fans on and during the darkness they turn off and I let the various regulation systems manage the air exchange, given that in the dark the humidity tends to rise and the aspirator that automatically lets in air.

Current state: 20 days of vegetative growth.
Humidity between 50 and 60%
Stable temperature at 21/22°

The problem I encountered occurred at the end of the last cycle. Once we reached about 7/8 weeks of flowering, I noticed that, unlike the norm, the pH tended to drop and the EC tended to rise.
I didn't give too much importance to it because in any case the plants were healthy and the automatic pH regulation system intervened by inserting the pH+.
Once the harvest is finished, I clean and disinfect everything and let four months pass. I start this new new cycle and this time, right away, this problem returns. Obviously I have calibrated both the pH meter and the EC meter over and over again and actually, when I test the tap water, the pH is always the same and the EC is obviously low, so this excludes a problem with the instruments.
The only thing this cycle has in common with the old one is the expanded clay in the vases. It must be said, however, that obviously, before using it again, I washed it carefully and let it dry completely.

My system is designed so that the roots do not end up in the water but remain in the pot or at most they come out of the pot's drainage holes but still remain in the upper tray. In the tank I obviously have the irrigation pump which is activated during the hours of light for 15 minutes every two hours and during the hours of darkness for 15 minutes every three hours. In addition to the pump I have two motors with propellers that mix the water which are activated when the PH- or + input is activated.

As products I use the complete series of Advanced Nutrients Ph Perfect.


Sorry for the biblical post and I hope for your help. 👋
 
Last edited:

Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
Hi all guys, I'm new to the forum but I've been following you for years and thanks to you, I've always solved my problems without having to bother you. Let's get to the point and I'll introduce you to my setup:

Growroom: 100x100x200cm
Lighting: enfun 1000 LED ceiling light (100 watts)
Hydroponic system: Atami Wilma 4 11L pots and 50 liters tank. I use 70/80% reverse osmosis water and the remainder tap water.
Plants: Watermelon Zkittlezz from Barney's Farm
pH and EC measurement system constantly immersed in the tank and automatic dosing with peristaltic pump for any corrections. (I only use it to correct the pH).
Humidifier and dehumidifier with inkbird correction system.
Temperature controlled by the inkbird system via stove or extractor that introduces fresh air from the outside.
During the daylight hours I leave three PC fans on and during the darkness they turn off and I let the various regulation systems manage the air exchange, given that in the dark the humidity tends to rise and the aspirator that automatically lets in air.

Current state: 20 days of vegetative growth.
Humidity between 50 and 60%
Stable temperature at 21/22°

The problem I encountered occurred at the end of the last cycle. Once we reached about 7/8 weeks of flowering, I noticed that, unlike the norm, the pH tended to drop and the EC tended to rise.
I didn't give too much importance to it because in any case the plants were healthy and the automatic pH regulation system intervened by inserting the pH+.
Once the harvest is finished, I clean and disinfect everything and let four months pass. I start this new new cycle and this time, right away, this problem returns. Obviously I have calibrated both the pH meter and the EC meter over and over again and actually, when I test the tap water, the pH is always the same and the EC is obviously low, so this excludes a problem with the instruments.
The only thing this cycle has in common with the old one is the expanded clay in the vases. It must be said, however, that obviously, before using it again, I washed it carefully and let it dry completely.

My system is designed so that the roots do not end up in the water but remain in the pot or at most they come out of the pot's drainage holes but still remain in the upper tray. In the tank I obviously have the irrigation pump which is activated during the hours of light for 15 minutes every two hours and during the hours of darkness for 15 minutes every three hours. In addition to the pump I have two motors with propellers that mix the water which are activated when the PH- or + input is activated.

As products I use the complete series of Advanced Nutrients Ph Perfect.


Sorry for the biblical post and I hope for your help. 👋
I have seen a lot of problems over the years with advanced nutrients. Everyone I know up to today quit using Advanced Nutrients and started using 3pt nutrient mixes. I tried Advanced Nutrients in the very beginning when they first came out too, only to end up throwing them in the trash. I suggest trying another fertilizer like the General Hydroponic Flora series. Use their Calimagic as a buffer with pure RO and leave out the tap.

Rather than use 20% tap water I would substitute tap with a quality cal-mag. like Calimagic. Some tap water in some areas is unusable even at 20% because of the unstable hydroxyl content.
 

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