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people please b careful with metal halide lamps
- Thread starter fredDRO.MoBB
- Start date
wow, a total loss, but I'm glad you weren't burned or poisoned by it.
I'm trying a switch to LED and it is expensive but I will be glad not to have HID lamps burning the house. I think HPS is a lot safer than MH though. Hortilux bulbs work great for vegging.
I tried CMH and found the bulbs very sensitive to power outages, they would all pop and burn out every time the power flicked on & off during a storm. I consider CMH unsafe for home use. Every bulb comes with a warning not to use the bulb where people are working or standing nearby.
I'm trying a switch to LED and it is expensive but I will be glad not to have HID lamps burning the house. I think HPS is a lot safer than MH though. Hortilux bulbs work great for vegging.
I tried CMH and found the bulbs very sensitive to power outages, they would all pop and burn out every time the power flicked on & off during a storm. I consider CMH unsafe for home use. Every bulb comes with a warning not to use the bulb where people are working or standing nearby.
GnarlsBarkley
Member
WTF... MH bulbs should have glass surrounding the actual bulb internally since when they fail it is often catastrophically like this bad manufacturer maybe? Also could happen if a DE MH is plugged into a unit tht doesnt support it like a gavita and being fired too quickly after being turned off.
Lethal
Active member
I am glad you didn't get hurt. I support MJPassion please clean up the room do a good clean up or get rid of the pots. Friend of mine had similar accident just in his case the bulb exploded in his hands when he was changing it for hps. He make his friend chemist do a check on the soil etc and it was heavily toxic (Mercury). Stay safe.
Lethal
Lethal
Wow, glad you and yours are ok. I would have used cmh but for the safety factor. I think the spectrum is better than hps without a doubt.
I use white LED now and fluoros now in white. I think they have the advantage of mh with better safety. You can even use the ones they sell in the super market and cut off the bulb over the LED's. 14 to 18 watts. They work as well as the grow LED's.
I use white LED now and fluoros now in white. I think they have the advantage of mh with better safety. You can even use the ones they sell in the super market and cut off the bulb over the LED's. 14 to 18 watts. They work as well as the grow LED's.
that you aren't hurt. typo..
lol...
fearmonger, that is all. 4 words...shoot wrong thread, oops
fearmonger, that is all. 4 words...shoot wrong thread, oops
I think we all just witnessed the primary issue of using "bare bulbs"--also be aware that some bulbs are not "universal" in their position. Some are horizontal, some vertical but "base down" or "base up" only, and others are "universal" (any position).
And then we have this thing called "unprotected arc tube" thing....from https://blog.1000bulbs.com/home/buying-a-metal-halide-bulb-4-factors
MH bulbs with a protected arc have a hardened casing around the arc and can be used in either enclosed or open rated fixtures. They have a smaller neck before it flanges out to allow multiple installation applications. There is a special reason for the protected arc: as metal halide lamps age, they have a tendency for a “non-passive end of lamp life.” In other words, they can explode. The protection around the arc is there to contain the ruptured arc tube in the event of a non-passive end of lamp life.
Meanwhile, MH bulbs with an unprotected arc can only be used in enclosed fixtures which would be able to contain a possible ruptured arc tube. The bases of bulbs with an unprotected arc are wider and closer to the wires inside. They are a little cheaper and safe to use so long as they are used appropriately in an enclosed fixture.
LOL...love that expression, "non-passive end of life"--aka "explosion".
BTW, "pulse start" MH lamps are designed for digital ballasts--and "probe start" lamps are designed for Mag/Cap ballasts.
Just match the ANSI code of the ballast to the appropriate MH lamp: M47 (1000w probe start--Mag/Cap), M141 (1000w pulse start--digital), M59 (400w probe start--Mag/Cap), M155 (400w pulse start--digital). No difference for 600w--all are S106 (digital & Mag/Cap).
And then we have this thing called "unprotected arc tube" thing....from https://blog.1000bulbs.com/home/buying-a-metal-halide-bulb-4-factors
MH bulbs with a protected arc have a hardened casing around the arc and can be used in either enclosed or open rated fixtures. They have a smaller neck before it flanges out to allow multiple installation applications. There is a special reason for the protected arc: as metal halide lamps age, they have a tendency for a “non-passive end of lamp life.” In other words, they can explode. The protection around the arc is there to contain the ruptured arc tube in the event of a non-passive end of lamp life.
Meanwhile, MH bulbs with an unprotected arc can only be used in enclosed fixtures which would be able to contain a possible ruptured arc tube. The bases of bulbs with an unprotected arc are wider and closer to the wires inside. They are a little cheaper and safe to use so long as they are used appropriately in an enclosed fixture.
LOL...love that expression, "non-passive end of life"--aka "explosion".
BTW, "pulse start" MH lamps are designed for digital ballasts--and "probe start" lamps are designed for Mag/Cap ballasts.
Just match the ANSI code of the ballast to the appropriate MH lamp: M47 (1000w probe start--Mag/Cap), M141 (1000w pulse start--digital), M59 (400w probe start--Mag/Cap), M155 (400w pulse start--digital). No difference for 600w--all are S106 (digital & Mag/Cap).
fredDRO.MoBB
Member
I threw dem out because dey were not getting better. thanks for the replies. I did change the pots and the soil bUT not too much the room. my new plants look ok jus really lime green (new growth) but I don't think it's cus i didn't Clean the grow room to well
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