Pale plant, yellowing leaves, leaf tips drying +PHOTOS

[Y20S]

Hello everybody. I am banging my head against my reflective plastic for about 3 weeks now. WHAT COULD THIS BE?? Dry leaf tips, yellowing and falling off leaves, purpling stems..
Not a pH issue, checked yesterday.
Grown in 1:1:1 of worm castings perlite and vermiculite with some dolomite lime to act as a pH buffer.
Vertical. They are in 5 gallon pots, Auto Ultimate strain.
Could it be related to the type of molasses being used (beet)? The symptoms started shortly after SWIM started giving it, but TBH i guess that is a coincidence. It didn't swing the pH or anything like that.
Dont mind the temperature sensor hanging around (and the mess on the floor)

 

[Ratzilla]

In looking @ your pics nothing jumps out @ me.
Purpling stems could be a sign of P deficiencies or just genetics and or temperatures changes.
As far as molasses goes as long as it is unsulfured it should be good.
It should be feeding the microbe life just fine.
I know nothing about auto's.
It looks like it could be a natural shift into senescence.
I am seeing a plant at least 1/2 way through flowering?
It is a big plant for a auto?
like I said I know nothing about AUTO'S?
Ratz

 

[Y20S]

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I have the same problem - nothing jumps out at me. Necrosis on the leaf tips might be due to lack of root space, will try repotting her. (yeah this autoflower grew huge I like growing huge auto's)
There is not much to know about autos, they don't like stress and aren't sensitive to photoperiod (these girls were grown 20/4 and when they started flowering i popped em on 24/0). No topping or fimming, just a slight LST and you are golden I haven't LST'd this one yet. On the other hand her sister (indica phenotype) is doing well, so i don't get what's wrong...
Anyway, thanks for stopping by! The first one to reply

 

[maimunji]

Looks like N def. How much weeks in to flower?

 

[MrBungle]

it looks like you let your media get too dry a time or 2 in flower

 

[Ratzilla]

There is not much to know about autos, they don't like stress and aren't sensitive to photoperiod (these girls were grown 20/4 and when they started flowering i popped em on 24/0).

Are you saying once they started flowering that you increased the lighting cycle to 24 on?
Isn't that backwards?
Or is that something else to know about auto's?
Ratz

 

[phazer]

whats the temp and humidity like? how often are you watering her? are u letting her dry out enough in between waterings? water only? any bottle nutes?

 

[Chimera]

It's a dual Mg and N deficiency. I am betting your pH is low, and the salts are high.

Take pH 7 low PPM water and run an amount of water equal to the soil volume through the container, and check the pH and PPM of the runoff.

To correct the issue add 200 PPM of epsom salts and an eqial amount of a nitrogen fertilizer like a 20-30-20.

Unfortunately however, the damage is done and those damaged leaves will never come back. Learn from the mistake, be aware of salt buildup in your soil and flush more during the cycle to prevent it, or ensure you have about 10%-15% runoff at every watering- difficult growing in containers with saucers like you are using, but essential to avoid toxic salt buildup, pH crash, and Mg lockout.

 

[Y20S]

Are you saying once they started flowering that you increased the lighting cycle to 24 on?
Isn't that backwards?
Or is that something else to know about auto's?
Ratz

Correct. You can put them to 12/12 or 18/6 or 20/4 or 24/0. It only affects the flowering in the size of flowers
You can do whatever you want dude, autos are genetically programmed to flower after a set amount of time. Google it, there are wonderful autoflowering cannabis guides out there.

whats the temp and humidity like? how often are you watering her? are u letting her dry out enough in between waterings? water only? any bottle nutes?

Temp - 70F - 77F. The probe you see controls the exhaust fan. No way of temps too high/too low. My thermometer with min/max memory confirms it too. I keep humidity around 30-35, because other indica pheno has flowers so dense it would probably insta rot if i raised it to 40 or 50. I was watering with liquid worm castings 25ml/10l every watering when in veg, when they started flowering i started giving 'em PK and molasses. I water when the pot is light. Some of the roots are coming thru the bottom of the 5gal pot.

It's a dual Mg and N deficiency. I am betting your pH is low, and the salts are high.

Take pH 7 low PPM water and run an amount of water equal to the soil volume through the container, and check the pH and PPM of the runoff.

To correct the issue add 200 PPM of epsom salts and an eqial amount of a nitrogen fertilizer like a 20-30-20.

Unfortunately however, the damage is done and those damaged leaves will never come back. Learn from the mistake, be aware of salt buildup in your soil and flush more during the cycle to prevent it, or ensure you have about 10%-15% runoff at every watering- difficult growing in containers with saucers like you are using, but essential to avoid toxic salt buildup, pH crash, and Mg lockout.

F**k me. It's Chimera! :O
Runoff pH is 7 and soil pH (i got some of these testing kits for soil) is 6.5. Nothing seems wrong with it... Anyway:
I never thought about plants sucking the water back up from the saucers! I was always getting that runoff, it just came back where it came from... Haha, live and learn.
Just flushed. I will water with epsom salts as I have them readily available. It's just that i don't have TDS meter... Yet. (I am thinking about coco) I guess I'll just stick to the directions then

 

[Limeygreen]

Flip your saucers upside down to keep the pot off the floor and let the run off go off. If you like to collect it or prefer it not on the floor, some 2 x 4s and 1 inch x 2 inch wire fencing would keep them elevated enough and you can slide a bucket or tray below to collect your leachate, before you dump it you can test it and also measure how much is coming off. Keeps your pots off the floor and any residual water left won't find its way back to your pot. Cinder blocks work too but are porous and 2 x 4s can harbor pests and disease, frames of top rail fencing could be bolted together to make a nice sturdy frame, drill enough holes and you could make different spacing depending on what you're growing, just cap the ends and silcone the holes to keep things out.

 

[Y20S]

Flip your saucers upside down to keep the pot off the floor and let the run off go off. If you like to collect it or prefer it not on the floor, some 2 x 4s and 1 inch x 2 inch wire fencing would keep them elevated enough and you can slide a bucket or tray below to collect your leachate, before you dump it you can test it and also measure how much is coming off. Keeps your pots off the floor and any residual water left won't find its way back to your pot. Cinder blocks work too but are porous and 2 x 4s can harbor pests and disease, frames of top rail fencing could be bolted together to make a nice sturdy frame, drill enough holes and you could make different spacing depending on what you're growing, just cap the ends and silcone the holes to keep things out.

I guess i'll drill a hole in the saucer, install an elbow with a grommet and just pipe it away. Thanks for your suggestions, Limey!