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outdoor problem heat or fungus?

hamstring

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I am an outdoor grower from the Midwest. We have had incredible heat for our area. It has been 97 – 99 deg for the last (1 & 1/2) weeks. The temp was staying around 81 deg with 70-90% humidity even at night. The break form the heat just came last wed (Aug 2nd)
I went out to take of one of my plots(Aug 4th), which has a mix of sativas and indicas. The sativas all looked fine but the indicas had a lot of yellowing leaves (everywhere) and dead leaves on the inner side of the plants. I have enough experience with this strain and growing in general to say it was more than just a few inner leaves that were not receiving light. I have everything well mulched and felt the earth around the stem. It was moist enough to say it was not lack of water and as I said before the staivas looked good.
My initial thought was mold or fungus problems. As I understand it indicas are more prone to this. The flowering has just begun with on or two pistols on the bud sights. No visible signs of mold or fungus (maybe I did not look for right evidence). I sprayed indicas only, with a fungicide/bug killer.
I am hopping for the best. I went to tie them down as I usually do this time of the year but decided not to because of further stress.

Am I looking at purely heat stress or could it be a fungus / mold problem?

Peace
 

hamstring

Well-known member
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Thanks JGG
I hope that’s all it is.

Everything was fine 3 weeks ago. I was surprised and new it had to something with commonality to the indicas.
 

hamstring

Well-known member
Veteran
Update-Help

After reading OG Royal Growers post I went out again to look for better signs of mold/fungus damage. My problem resembles Royal Growers except no spots on the leaves. The plants all large 5 ft. with the same yellowing and dead leaves.
As I said I sprayed all four indicas with fungicide and water with 10-51-10. It rained 36 hrs later. It has now been 4.5 days since the last visit. 3 of the 4 look like they may recover.

It dawned on me that it had been weeks since our last rain. I used 1.5 coconut bricks /hole in these holes. I did add 1 cup of lime. The type that is made up of small balls to be used in spreaders for your yard.

I was thinking maybe since the lack of rain the plants might be pulling all moisture from the coconut bricks? Maybe this moisture is acid in nature?

I decided to cover all bases and water (no ferts) again and spray with fungicide.

Would an acid soil from coconut bricks cause the yellowing and dieing leaves very similar to OG Royal Growers post with out the leave spots?
Seems weird never did before but we have had good rain in the Midwest and maybe this diluted the water intake.
 

MynameStitch

Dr. Doolittle
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how often have you been feeding your plants?

i would stop using that 10 51 10 thats completely unbalanced for cannabis and causes lockout issues from to much of one other nutrient

i helped out og grower i know his issues, if yours is like his without the spots like you stated then you have a nitrogen deficiency

are these plants in flower?
 

hamstring

Well-known member
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MynameStitch

I have only used 10-51-10 one time. The condition started before the feeding. The plants have just started to flower a few pistols per node sight. I stopped giving 20-20-20 about 3-4 weeks ago. I have sativa plants growing 10 feet away that are not experiencing any of these signs. I did not put the coconut husks bricks in the sativa holes. I just did not have enough. That’s why I thought they might be the problem.
 

sproutco

Active member
Veteran
20-20-20 has plenty of phosphorus in it. Those bloom boosters like 12-55-6 have too much. You can have excess phosphorus easily because it builds up in the soil and does not wash downward in the soil. When in excess, you can get a deficiency of micros like zinc.

I don't know if you have dolomite lime in your soil. Alot of these ferts like 20-20-20 have little magnesium and no calcium. If the soil is limed, maybe apply 1/4 teaspoon powdered gypsum or calcium nitrate + 1/4 teaspoon epsom salts per gallon of water along with the regular fert like 20-20-20 every third or fourth time you fert. If no dolomite lime, add this cal/mag everytime.

I would try about 1/2-3/4 teaspoon 20-20-20 per gallon of water with every watering. This is about the bedding plant rate. 1 teaspoon per gallon of water = 240 ppm nitrogen

How much Peters® fertilizer should I use?

The correct fertilizer concentration for a particular operation will depend on a number of factors including: feeding frequency, crop type, crop stage, growing media, pot size, leaching fraction and environmental conditions. Generally fertilizer should be applied at concentrations necessary to sustain optimal root zone nutrient levels and quality plant growth. See the table below for The Scotts Company’s general recommendations for crop types. Consult your local Scotts’ expert for more details.

Crop Type Continuous Liquid Feed (ppm N) Periodic Feeding (ppm N)
Bedding Plants 50-150 150-250
Containerized Woody Plants 50-100 200-350
Cut Flowers 175-225 300-450
Potted Flowering Crops 200-300 350-400
Tropical Foliage 150-200 250-300
Plugs 50-125 175-225

(a plug is a seedling at the first true leaves to about 3 or 4 weeks old)
 
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MynameStitch

Dr. Doolittle
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ok sounds like it is the problem, how did you prepare your coconut husks before you put them into the ground>?


coconut husk has alot of salt content and must be rinsed good, nto to mention if i remember right its acidic and they dont work with alot of plants.......

so you may be having ph difference which is why you are seeing the yellowing, which may be locking out nitrogen

is the lower leaves affected? can you get pictures?

sprout has given some gret information about the nutrients,. stay away from the 10-51-10

stay with the 20-20-20 at 1/2 tsp per gallon up to 5 feet tall, if they are taller use 1 tsp per gallon of water


why did you chose to use coconut husks?and not just something else that is so acidic? sounds to me you will have to put some lime down around your ones that have coconut husks before you fix the yelllowing


Seems weird never did before but we have had good rain in the Midwest and maybe this diluted the water intake.

lol you live in the midwest too ehh :)
you could easily look up what city i live just by typing in where i live lol

and yes the coconut bricks sound like your problem and yes they can cause the yellowing if not a ph buffer is with them to balance out the acidicy
 
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hamstring

Well-known member
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Sproutco

Thanks for the fert. Info. To tell you the truth I use 1 big tablespoon of 20-20-20 per gallon of water. I feed about 2 gal every two weeks per plant until mid July.
I have always done it this way to increase veg size of the plant. I will admit that during flowering I have plants fall over and some cracked or broken limbs. I want the large size.

MynameStitch

I really think the coconut husks could be the problem also. This was my first time using them. I put coco bricks in a bucket to soak and break apart. I then poured the mixture into the bottom of each hole. I mixed it with the local earth and added a cup of lime. I wanted to wait a month but actually planted two weeks later.

I guess I was trying to decrease visit times to plots. I still ended up going every 2-3 weeks. I have never had any watering problems even last year when we had the drought.

I was trying to improve my methodology. Always trying to improve.

I think I will stick to the perillight to loosen soil and help in wet locations for oxygen. It seemed to help this year in a plot I had.

Am I right in thinking that this condition did not show it’s self before because there was more moisture for the plant to take up and it was not pulling directly from the coco bricks?

It just seems odd that the plants just started the condition. I have checked on one other small plot(one plant) and this same strain did not seem to have any problems. I have one more larger plot to check on and I will update again later.

You guy are the best. Keep up the good work. PEACE
 
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hamstring

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Veteran
Update

I went to check on my last two plots. All indicas in these plots do not have any coco bricks in the holes they are planted in. I am pleased to tell you that I did not see the yellowing leave count I saw on the plants with the coco bricks.
Its funny, I read these forums quite a bit looking for ways to improve my methodology. I never used any water holding material such as peat moss or coco bricks before. I had good results with out them. I followed what I heard and read and it turned out I was better off with out this stuff. I still believe it is necessary to experiment to improve. I not sure I will use the coco bricks again. I may try peat moss because I have used it around the yard with good results. Good Luck and I hope I gave others some knowledge by my experiments good and bad.

Anyways thanks for all the help everyone. PEACE
 
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