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Organic Soil Storage
- Thread starter fizz
- Start date
A truck bed liner works nice for mixing and storage in a basement. If you have one on hand...laying around...
That is a clever idea growingcrazy. I see them on craiglist for free now and then.
I'm leaning towards galvanized steel trash cans on movers/castors for convenience. In my experience plastic off-gasses and warps.
Any objections? Would like to hear more ideas before I settle on this.
I'm leaning towards galvanized steel trash cans on movers/castors for convenience. In my experience plastic off-gasses and warps.
Any objections? Would like to hear more ideas before I settle on this.
Galvanized cans will eventually release zinc into the soil. It is hard to beat rubber-maid totes for storage. You could always build some wooden soil chests, pirate style.
If your in an unfinished basement just clean a corner well and get mixing. Your soil can take care of itself, it just needs moisture and temperature control.
If your in an unfinished basement just clean a corner well and get mixing. Your soil can take care of itself, it just needs moisture and temperature control.
Just read the effects of excess zinc on plants and soil to be sure.. yea not worth the risk. Considered building wooden chests too, but I figured bad bugs would invade.
I think my mistake in the past was buying cheap plastic garbage cans which were too tall, smelled odd, and didn't hold up. I'll get some sturdy, wide, opaque, Rubbermaid totes instead, preferably with wheels. They're kind of expensive as far as plastic goes, but they're made of superior material and can be stacked which saves me space.
Thanks for the insight growingcrazy and easy7. Seems like a trivial topic, but I feel we must scrutinize even the most miniscule details to achieve the purest of herb. Rubbermaid totes it is.
I think my mistake in the past was buying cheap plastic garbage cans which were too tall, smelled odd, and didn't hold up. I'll get some sturdy, wide, opaque, Rubbermaid totes instead, preferably with wheels. They're kind of expensive as far as plastic goes, but they're made of superior material and can be stacked which saves me space.
Thanks for the insight growingcrazy and easy7. Seems like a trivial topic, but I feel we must scrutinize even the most miniscule details to achieve the purest of herb. Rubbermaid totes it is.
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Emperortaima
Namekian resident/farmer
Tubs seem to be popular I'm gonna throw mine in one once I make more super soil
Best mixer for custom grow medium I found is a "portable cement mixer" (5 cuft size can mix 2.5 cuft of custom grow medium within 15-20 minutes). I bought a new one for $250 and I saw used ones (just like mine) selling for $100-150 on Craigslist (making the effective cost around $100-150...sweet!).
Like this one--
Best storage container for mixed grow medium I found are 20 gallon Brute trash cans. I can muscle 20 gallons of moistened soil much easier than say 50 gallons (bigger trash can).
For aeration (to avoid anaerobic conditions) vertically positioning a 3" perforated drain pipe down the middle of the moistened grow medium helps. They come in 10' lengths and easy to cut down to smaller lengths.
Like this--
Like this one--
Best storage container for mixed grow medium I found are 20 gallon Brute trash cans. I can muscle 20 gallons of moistened soil much easier than say 50 gallons (bigger trash can).
For aeration (to avoid anaerobic conditions) vertically positioning a 3" perforated drain pipe down the middle of the moistened grow medium helps. They come in 10' lengths and easy to cut down to smaller lengths.
Like this--
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That is some excellent advice DocTim. I like the tube idea, and the cement mixer is definitely something to consider investing in. Do you find that it pulverizes larger chunks of pumice or perlite? That would be my only concern, but 5 cuft. is a perfect size for what I'm mixing. Strongly considering it now lol. I wonder how hard it would be to move that beast up and down stairs if need be.
https://sleequipment.com/yardmax-ym0115-4-cubic-feet-concrete-mixer-15-opening.html This one is only 4 cuft. but I like the design. Weighs 275 pounds though!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rubbermaid-...Bin-Trash-Can-Lid-and-Dolly-Kit-/253009397035 This + Tim's drain pipe seems ideal. Question is, does the dolly detatch from the can? If so, it would have many uses around the garden.
Here is what I can tell you...the cement mixer was delivered by UPS in 1 box which weighed a bit over 100 pounds. The price was $250 (not $350...ooops my bad), and I got it through Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I9801MG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Specifications:
Heavy Duty 1/2 HP Motor, 1725 RPM, 3.0 Amp
Voltage: 110V, 60 Hz
Drum Size 5 Cubic Feet
Mixing Capacity: 2.5 Cubic Feet / 270 LBS
Drum Diameter: 23.6"
Opening of the drum: 15"
Drum Depth: 22.4"
Drum Rotation: 23 RPM
Machine Weight: 105 Lbs
Overall Dimensions: 45.6''L X 28.7''W X49.2''H
If you look at that picture closely, you will notice the drum, motor and the bracket are basically attached together as single unit and the wheeled stand is also one piece, and yes...you can lift the drum/motor/bracket off the stand. If you tilt the drum downward (handle up) the footprint for storage is just under 28" x 48".
A couple of days ago I used it to "wet charge" biochar and then immediately mixed in 2 cuft of Malibu Compost, a process that should have taken two days (1 day for "wet charge' and 2nd day for blending with compost); I accomplished everything within 45 minutes (including beer break).
Does it make big chunks smaller? Not really. The drum does not rotate very fast or violently (it is a slow 23 RPM) but what does happen--some of the larger aggregates (ie bark) begin to accumulate towards the front of the rotating drum. I discovered if you scoop and toss bigger items toward the back of drum with a jumbo 38 oz sized food service scoop...all is better.
I think if the drum rotated faster, the tumbling action would pulverize everything, but what I observe is more like a gentle "waterfall" action. As the drum rotates, the dry ingredients flow (like a "waterfall")...at first you can distinguish in the "waterfall" whiteness from perlite/calcined clay and the darkness of earth worm castings/peat/compost, but about after 1-2 minutes it is hard to distinguish "colors" in the "waterfall".
The 20 gallon Brute Rubbermaid trashcans fit perfectly under the drum. To empty the drum...place a trash can under the drum, tilt the drum downward (a little will fall out), position the perforated drain pipe section in place (temporarily cover the pipe opening), hand turn the drum a few turns and about 14 gallons (2+ cuft) will dump in the trashcan. I consolidate 3 partially filled trashcans (14 gallon each) into two filled-to-the-brim 20 gallon trashcans (40-42 gallons total)...including the 3" perforated pipe.
And yes, do buy those wheeled trashcan dollies (cheapest I found was $24 from Chefs Toys https://chefstoys.com/shop/Update-International-DYR-18-Economy-Dolly-For-Round-Huskee-Trash-Can-2781)...it does make life a whole lot easier.
Hope this helps!
Specifications:
Heavy Duty 1/2 HP Motor, 1725 RPM, 3.0 Amp
Voltage: 110V, 60 Hz
Drum Size 5 Cubic Feet
Mixing Capacity: 2.5 Cubic Feet / 270 LBS
Drum Diameter: 23.6"
Opening of the drum: 15"
Drum Depth: 22.4"
Drum Rotation: 23 RPM
Machine Weight: 105 Lbs
Overall Dimensions: 45.6''L X 28.7''W X49.2''H
If you look at that picture closely, you will notice the drum, motor and the bracket are basically attached together as single unit and the wheeled stand is also one piece, and yes...you can lift the drum/motor/bracket off the stand. If you tilt the drum downward (handle up) the footprint for storage is just under 28" x 48".
A couple of days ago I used it to "wet charge" biochar and then immediately mixed in 2 cuft of Malibu Compost, a process that should have taken two days (1 day for "wet charge' and 2nd day for blending with compost); I accomplished everything within 45 minutes (including beer break).
Does it make big chunks smaller? Not really. The drum does not rotate very fast or violently (it is a slow 23 RPM) but what does happen--some of the larger aggregates (ie bark) begin to accumulate towards the front of the rotating drum. I discovered if you scoop and toss bigger items toward the back of drum with a jumbo 38 oz sized food service scoop...all is better.
I think if the drum rotated faster, the tumbling action would pulverize everything, but what I observe is more like a gentle "waterfall" action. As the drum rotates, the dry ingredients flow (like a "waterfall")...at first you can distinguish in the "waterfall" whiteness from perlite/calcined clay and the darkness of earth worm castings/peat/compost, but about after 1-2 minutes it is hard to distinguish "colors" in the "waterfall".
The 20 gallon Brute Rubbermaid trashcans fit perfectly under the drum. To empty the drum...place a trash can under the drum, tilt the drum downward (a little will fall out), position the perforated drain pipe section in place (temporarily cover the pipe opening), hand turn the drum a few turns and about 14 gallons (2+ cuft) will dump in the trashcan. I consolidate 3 partially filled trashcans (14 gallon each) into two filled-to-the-brim 20 gallon trashcans (40-42 gallons total)...including the 3" perforated pipe.
And yes, do buy those wheeled trashcan dollies (cheapest I found was $24 from Chefs Toys https://chefstoys.com/shop/Update-International-DYR-18-Economy-Dolly-For-Round-Huskee-Trash-Can-2781)...it does make life a whole lot easier.
Hope this helps!
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Thanks for the details concerning delivery and storage. 105 lbs is manageable, and I love how it easily pours into the trash can. Suddenly mixing soil is exciting..
I can't offer any karma (yet), but I appreciate all the insight DocTim. I've got some Malibu and Oly Mtn planned for the mix too.
Will keep you posted once I finish setting up my new room.
I can't offer any karma (yet), but I appreciate all the insight DocTim. I've got some Malibu and Oly Mtn planned for the mix too.
Will keep you posted once I finish setting up my new room.No problem, my pleasure.
BTW, you also will need to drill extra holes in the perforated drain pipe. Looking at the end of the drainage pipe, you will discover holes are positioned at 12 and 3 o'clock position. To add holes at the 6 and 9 o'clock position requires drilling in the existing holes through the other side with a 5/8 or 1/2" drill bit. I cut the 10' pipe into 20" lengths and all is well.
Hope this helps!
BTW, you also will need to drill extra holes in the perforated drain pipe. Looking at the end of the drainage pipe, you will discover holes are positioned at 12 and 3 o'clock position. To add holes at the 6 and 9 o'clock position requires drilling in the existing holes through the other side with a 5/8 or 1/2" drill bit. I cut the 10' pipe into 20" lengths and all is well.
Hope this helps!
M
moose eater
Another solid vote for the cement mixer. Proper distribution of all amendments without much effort, then dump into a kiddie pool. We have hydrated routinely while mixing the soil, as well. Even distribution is important in my opinion.
We tapped the gear case at the bottom though, years ago, and with a tap and die set, threaded for a drain plug, so we could change out the gear lube with 70-90 synthetic every decade or so.
As far as storage goes, if you're looking at long term, don't allow any of it to become damp, as the totes, etc., made of plastics and rubber -don't- breathe, and it's a good way to cultivate fungus and other ugliness that will waste your investment.
Once wetted, stir regularly to ventilate until use occurs.
We tapped the gear case at the bottom though, years ago, and with a tap and die set, threaded for a drain plug, so we could change out the gear lube with 70-90 synthetic every decade or so.
As far as storage goes, if you're looking at long term, don't allow any of it to become damp, as the totes, etc., made of plastics and rubber -don't- breathe, and it's a good way to cultivate fungus and other ugliness that will waste your investment.
Once wetted, stir regularly to ventilate until use occurs.
Been there done that, Moose. I once bought a bag of soil from a garden center that was waterlogged from sitting on a pallet in the rain. At the time I didn't have many options, but wow that one soggy bag plagued me with all kinds of insect issues for quite a few months. Never again.
Moose, I experimented many ways of ventilating the grow medium stored in trashcans and so far, those 3" perforated drain pipes work the best. And...my grow medium is more "moist" than it is "dry".
Also, insure the lid on the 20 gallon Brute trashcan is not "airtight"...all living things need 3 things: air, water & food.
Also, insure the lid on the 20 gallon Brute trashcan is not "airtight"...all living things need 3 things: air, water & food.
St. Phatty
Active member
If you store soil with eggs, like redworm or earthworm eggs, will they hatch if the soil is stored dry in a place where it can't get baked by the sun ?
Bugs are not always bad. Saw a little centipede that had so many legs it looked more like a millipede, in some soil I mixed yesterday.
Bugs are not always bad. Saw a little centipede that had so many legs it looked more like a millipede, in some soil I mixed yesterday.
M
moose eater
Though I rarely give the two-weeks activation time for organic mixes, I just made a point of storing dry, then wetting at the time.
I figure 2 weeks is something I can get through with slight amounts of already-active organic additives, whether from a bottle, or from home-made teas.
"Boost it gently until it kicks in." (*Though break-down times on many organics varies...)
Storage space in my area is limited, and, as it is, I'm now one of those millions of North American property owners who wishes they'd gone with their original blue prints when they built, and added that extra 4' to each dimension in their foot-print. Oh well...
I figure 2 weeks is something I can get through with slight amounts of already-active organic additives, whether from a bottle, or from home-made teas.
"Boost it gently until it kicks in." (*Though break-down times on many organics varies...)
Storage space in my area is limited, and, as it is, I'm now one of those millions of North American property owners who wishes they'd gone with their original blue prints when they built, and added that extra 4' to each dimension in their foot-print. Oh well...
