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Organic Pest Control

Smurf

stoke this joint
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Powdery Mildew ,,,,, Mulch, avoid any overhead irrigating, remove any leaves infected (thousands of new spores are produced within 4 days),, spray with kelp regularly,, you can also spray with lime sulphur, but my favourite is milk,,, but this all depends how bad the mildew infection is (sometimes it works better than others) 1 part milk to 9 parts water.

Had a friend who removed all the infected leaves, but he failed to remove them from the growroom,,,, guess what happened?
 

Smurf

stoke this joint
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Powdery Mildew (Oidium sp)

Humid, overcast weather, especially when the days are warm and the nights are cool and moist are prime conditions for the fungal disease Powdery Mildew (Oidium sp.)

It spreads by releasing spores, which are carried on air currents. The spores require high humidity for germination but they won’t germinate in wet weather. Most Powdery Mildews are active between the temperature range 11 – 28 degrees C.

Treatments

Experiments have shown that full-cream milk is successful against Powdery Mildew on zucchinis and grapevines. In fact, rose-growers Ross Roses in South Australia use full-cream milk successfully as a spray, up to once a week in a bad season.

Milk isn’t a preventative. It causes the fine hairs on the fungal spores to shrivel within hours of application.

Peter Crisp at the University of Adelaide, evaluated 34 alternative treatments for controlling powdery mildew. The most successful treatments were full-cream milk, potassium bicarbonate and a canola oil-based product Synertrol Horti-oil. (Australian Horticulture, August 2005)

In 1996, GrowerTalks magazine reported that a potassium bicarbonate formulation had ‘proven effective in eliminating powdery mildew in roses, ornamentals, vegetables and fruit crops’. The product was called Ecocarb.

The product is also known as Eco-rose, an organic fungicide registered for use in Australia on grapes and roses only, but in New Zealand it is also registered for use against black spot on roses, dollar spot on turf, and powdery mildew in cucurbits, apples, strawberries and tomatoes (Organic Gardener, 2005).

There are many home remedies that use bi-carbonate of soda as a fungicide. Bi-carbonate of soda is actually sodium bi-carbonate, not potassium bi-carbonate as mentioned above.
 

Clackamas Coot

Active member
Veteran
Smurf said:
There are many home remedies that use bi-carbonate of soda as a fungicide. Bi-carbonate of soda is actually sodium bi-carbonate, not potassium bi-carbonate as mentioned above.
Smurf

I believe that you've misread the gist of my post regarding potassium bi-carbonate vs. sodium bi-carbonate.

No big deal.

CC
 

Smurf

stoke this joint
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Clackamas Coot said:
Smurf

I believe that you've misread the gist of my post regarding potassium bi-carbonate vs. sodium bi-carbonate.

No big deal.

CC
No mate, not at all,, this was in reference to organic home remedies using bi-carb of soda and the University studies (mentioned earlier in my post) using potassium bi-carb. In no way was this reference directed at your previous post. Sorry if that is how it was interpreted.

So your right,,, no biggie.

:wave:
 
S

strain_searcher

This could be just a coincidence but I added some high P guano 0-7-0 had an ammonia smell which this brand is supposed to have and I added some seaweed ground fresh. When I watered and this time did not spray any neem and noticed only a couple gnats. I have been also using compost in tea every other watering so maybe some nemetodes are also starting to munch on the larve but I feel the 0-7-0 guano also had something to do with it.
 

MHHSP

Member
SM-90 from Nutrilife is made from natural plant oils and is all organic.

I use an SM-90 treatment during the 1st or 2nd week of veg. Spraying once every 48 hours, for 3 applications. Anyone else out there heard of or use this product?
I have had great results as just using it as a preventive measure.

http://www.4hydroponics.com/grow_room/sm90.asp
 

MHHSP

Member
Thank you for the correction Papulz.

I just love how all purpose this product is.. It prevents mold, insects, fungus, root disease, and aids in root development. Can be sprayed or added to nutrient solutions.
 
Last edited:

thatspoker422

New member
Aphids, Insect soap and ladybugs

Aphids, Insect soap and ladybugs

I have been having a problem with soil aphids. I used Dr. Bronner's Peppermint castile soap as a soil drench at a rate of 1 Tbs per gal. Now there are still aphids walking around on the floor and underneath the pots. I plan on doing another application of the soap but this time flooding the pots completely and letting the soapy water sit for a day or two on the floor. I was wondering if the soap harms the benificial bacteria and fungi in the soil, as i am doing an all organic grow?

Also i have tried ladybugs from 2 different sources and they show no interest in the aphids and just turn over on there backs and die within 24 hours of being released. When i released them i sprayed them with some sugar water. Does anybody know whats going on with these ladybugs?
 

marali

Member
man don't flood the pots, a plant and roots need to breath, air my friend air. If you flood the soil it will get very compact and that means no air, not good for your plants! You will also gonna hurt beneficials.

describe which exact problem did you have with having soil aphids!
 

thatspoker422

New member
#50
marali
being


Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 10


man don't flood the pots, a plant and roots need to breath, air my friend air. If you flood the soil it will get very compact and that means no air, not good for your plants! You will also gonna hurt beneficials.

describe which exact problem did you have with having soil aphids!




I am using "Air Pots" root pruning pots and they are lifted about 3 inches off the ground so the plants won't be sitting in the flooded water thats on the floor.

The aphids are all over the floor and under the pots they seem to be coming from the soil in the bottom of the pots.
 

Mr Celsius

I am patient with stupidity but not with those who
Veteran
thatspoker422 said:
I have been having a problem with soil aphids. I used Dr. Bronner's Peppermint castile soap as a soil drench at a rate of 1 Tbs per gal. Now there are still aphids walking around on the floor and underneath the pots. I plan on doing another application of the soap but this time flooding the pots completely and letting the soapy water sit for a day or two on the floor. I was wondering if the soap harms the benificial bacteria and fungi in the soil, as i am doing an all organic grow?

Also i have tried ladybugs from 2 different sources and they show no interest in the aphids and just turn over on there backs and die within 24 hours of being released. When i released them i sprayed them with some sugar water. Does anybody know whats going on with these ladybugs?

Welcome to Northern California... I hate those fuckers.

This thread should cover everything you want to know about dealing with em: http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=70503

The organic method is extremely difficult. The creator of the thread, Scay Beez is an organic guru... I think he still turned to conventional pesticides.
 

marali

Member
thatspoker422 said:
I am using "Air Pots" root pruning pots and they are lifted about 3 inches off the ground so the plants won't be sitting in the flooded water thats on the floor.
it doesn't matter if they will sit in water or not, you will over water (lack of air and other bad things) and that's not good, especially in organics...
 

I N Hail

Growing Grower AKA Wasted Rock Ranger
Veteran
High all
What are the very first signs to look for a mite problem? How early in a plants life can they hit?


thanks I N Hail
 

Clackamas Coot

Active member
Veteran
Once I started spraying my plants with neem oil I no longer had problems with mites, powdery mildew, gnats, et al.

I use a 'food grade' neem seed oil product and it's worth its weight in gold.

Neem seed meal in the soil mixture also helps - big time.

YMMV

CC
 

maryjohn

Active member
Veteran
May I suggest something to try for the soil aphids? I am new here, so I won't be surprised if it is shot down.

I would cave in and use tobacco tea. To be specific, red man chewing tobacco, not flavored.

Is it organic? Well.... sort of. Ok, not really, because the tobacco is not produced organically, but if you're that picky, good luck to ya. Oh wait! American Spirit brand tobacco is organic, no? I would go with about 2 tablespoons per litre, and use it as a soil drench. You want to boil it for 3 minutes to make sure you don't spread any pathogens. It won't harm the microherd, although any beneficial insects it touches will get zapped.

Alternatively, you can grow your own nicotiana and use the leaves to make tobacco tea. It's a beautiful plant.
 
T

TheOneWill

Found a slug in my pot today. :( Hopefully they won't be around in the summer.
 

maryjohn

Active member
Veteran
slugs are easy.

iron phosphate and some copper flashing around your pot.

chopsticks and some barbecue skewers to take out your rage.
 

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