Organic Pest Control

[Scay Beez]

There are others trying the same thing over in this thread:

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=70503&page=5

Best of luck. For others tuning in SM90 and Imidacloprid aren't organic. Sm90 does contain corriander and clove oil but it also has Triethanolamine.


- sbz

 

[sunnyside]

I have been now battling thrips, the Western Flower thrip is a develish little fucker to boot.

I want tot point something about neem oil, it`s been brought to my attention by a friend.
When using neem one should avoid doing a soil drench with it too often, oil clogs the fine root hairs in the soil and blocks the roots from working efficiently, he recommended sticking to foliars if possible.
I have noticed a little less plumpness from my buds after a few soil drenches of neem so that`s something to consider.

Suby

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=61807

suby...take a look at the thrips control 101...spinosad is THE answer for thripes.

 

[sunnyside]

Fungus gnats...

Stop overwatering!! Let the top few inches dry out a bit..then apply a layer of diatomaceous earth on top of the soil. There is a particular brand of DE that I have found works especially well. It is Diatect V. It's blend of natural pyrethrins (0.5%) and diatomaceous earth, Diatect V provides quick control of a long list of insect pests, including fungus gnats.

http://www.planetnatural.com/site/diatect-v-insect-control.html

 

[sunnyside]

The trick with mites is to not let them get a foothold in your garden. If they do, you need to quarantine the infestation and wait it out. Let the current crop run its course, then start over.

Not start completely over, but it is much easier to treat young small plants than it is to treat large maturing plants.

When your current infested crop is finished. Clean, clean, clean...then start to work on cleaning your next batch of clones to go in.

The best way I have found to rid mites from young tender plantlets is as follows...

1. rinse the plants under running water. The the majority of the mites aren't strong enough to hold onto the plant during the rinse. Some eggs and mites will hold on, so you need to follow up with a high quality cold pressed neem like dyna-gro neem or einstein oil. Do this every day for up to a week. The rinse will wash away any bugs/eggs and the previous days neem treatment. Maybe throw in a pyrethrin based spray somewhere in there. If you are vigilant then you should have no problems getting rid of the mites.

 

[sunnyside]

beneficial insects aren't always a good solution.

Did you know that some beneficials can't reproduce in 12/12? Did you know that some beneficials only work under certain humidity or temperatures? Ask these questions before you commit to using beneficial insects.

Natures' Control is a good authority on beneficial insects. YOu can call them at 541.245.6033 or at http://www.naturescontrol.com/

 

[sunnyside]

Nature's Control on Prevention

Some of the worst bug experiences we've seen might have been minimized or even eliminated by a few simple preventative actions that gardeners can do: Start out with clean plants from known sources, or start with seeds or cuttings and grow them up free of pests. Use clean potting soil, or other media. Filter intakes through insect screens. Keep your plants healthy, because healthy plants are more resistant to insect problems than unhealthy plants. Also, get in the practice of routine inspection using at least a 16x magnifier so that you can catch the beginnings of a pest outbreak before huge populations of the pest develop. These kind of preventative measures will go along way towards keeping insects at bay.

 

[sunnyside]

Nature's Control on Humidity

Humidity plays a critical role in insect survival. Pests insects eat a diluted food consisting of plant juices, and the only way pests can eat alot is to evaporate that excess moisture about as fast as they take it in. When air humidity is too low, the bugs can evaporate or sweat moisture faster, and eat faster. On the other hand, predator insects are eating a concentrated 'meaty' diet, so they prefer higher humidity levels to help maintain their critical body moisture. That's why raising humidity levels often helps predator insects thrive, while at the same time slows down pest insect growth.

 

[sunnyside]

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=66865

^^^ a wonderful thread on spidermite control by flowerman.

 

[Guest]

Caveat Emptor! - Don't buy ladybirds!

Ladybirds, like pigeons, have a homing signal. If I were to collect my ladybirds and sell them to someone across town, they would come back here...

 

[Suby]

I have not tried spinosad but I have read Kokua's sticky and had a good read.
I am using another product called safe, it's 100% safe for edibles, smokeables, etc. no gloves, no mask, I can keep ventilation on.
It's applied full strength twice at 5 day intervals, my hydro friend guranteed me it would work or he would give me a gallon of LK, I like a man thatr puts his money where his mouth is , I'm not sure it's organic but this is a coco grow I'm doing so it's of little consequence.

I'm not sure of the brand, it's from Australia, it's actually a leaf cleaner that's plant safe but it kills bug dead, I'll get back to yall one I have been without a visible one for at least 1 month lol.

S



S

 

[ThereIsHope]

Point taken, thanks for the clarification. Could you send me a link to some info on killing bugs with Co2 and what ppms it takes?

I have no links and only the warning which came with my CAP PPM-2 CO2 monitor/controller.

Anything above 3,000-5,000 PPMs of CO2 is deadly to humans. CO2 itself is not poisonous. It displaces oxygen so with that in mind.

 

[Big Shade]

Great thread B1, I have had the borg something I used to think I would never get, any how they ripped through my grow all three rooms!!!!!!!!!!!, last night I slaughtered loads and my perpetual harvest has a big hole up and coming!!!!!.

Was for the best though as I would never of got rid, funny but my panama's were untouched not a single mite on them, weird or what like the mites don't like the taste or something.


Any how I have sourced some SBPI and neem oil they are enroute, in the mean time I have a clove of garlic and some cayenne pepper!!!!, the little critters chose the wrong house!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


What hurts the most is all this crap from one clone, cost me a fortune but I have learned lots so its onwards and upwards.

 

[Wait...What?]

Commercial greenhouse organic growers use what is referred to as a 'host plant' whereas the plant hosts both the pest and its predator. The predators need a steady food supply if you want them to stay around. As I've grown many other types of plants in my grow room, I've noticed that more often than not, one plant will attract the pests before the rest. I let that plant host the bugs, but only that plant. As long as I don't disturb that plant, the other plants will be free of the pests more or less. A sacrificial lamb, as it were.

 

[swampdank]

it really works!

it really works!

i started bottom feeding and the gnats just disappeared. i recommend this to anybody. its easy and costs nothing!

 

[Suby]

I'm not sure of the brand, it's from Australia, it's actually a leaf cleaner that's plant safe but it kills bug dead, I'll get back to yall one I have been without a visible one for at least 1 month lol.

Well it`s been about that and not a trace of these little fuckers left, this product isn`t 100% certified organic but it is majorly organic based, it`s moslty starches that dry the insects out.

The plants also look fine with no visible drawbacks of the girls.

I would use it again in a heartbeat.

SD watering from the bottom has had equally good results with Gnats, I think in general dry topsoil can save growers alot of pest problems.

What hurts the most is all this crap from one clone, cost me a fortune but I have learned lots so its onwards and upwards.

If you spray them a quarantine them for a few days it seems pretty harmless, all my additions to my garden are of the seed variety to be safe

S

 

[Clackamas Coot]

Powdery Mildew

Powdery Mildew

RE: Powdery Mildew

Here is an article from the National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service. The article discusses both potassium bicarbonate as well as sodium bicarbonate (baking soda).

They both work and work well. The potassium bicarbonate products are about 20% more effective than baking soda but it is also 500% - 2000% more expensive depending on which 'brand' of potassium bicarbonate that you buy.

There isn't a dime's worth of difference between any of them.

HTH

CC

 

[sophisto]

RE: Powdery Mildew

Here is an article from the National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service. The article discusses both potassium bicarbonate as well as sodium bicarbonate (baking soda).

They both work and work well. The potassium bicarbonate products are about 20% more effective than baking soda but it is also 500% - 2000% more expensive depending on which 'brand' of potassium bicarbonate that you buy.

There isn't a dime's worth of difference between any of them.

HTH

CC

Apparently Compost teas are excellent for powdery mildew..

I have seen reports in "The Compost tea Brewing Manual edition 5" ( Elaine Ingham) that show the evidence.... Good bacteria and fungus out competing bad bacteria and fungus....

 

[quadracer]

and plants that are fed compost tea or have lots of compost as a mulch are much more resistant to different diseases and insect attacks. A strong plant is a healthy plant.

Companion planting also really helps. A nice bio-diverse garden will usually take care of an insect problem with little human intervention (besides initial planting).

 

[sardine]

companion plants

companion plants

Companion planting also really helps. A nice bio-diverse garden will usually take care of an insect problem with little human intervention (besides initial planting).

any suggestions for companion plants for indoors and out?

thanks

sardine

 

[quadracer]

any suggestions for companion plants for indoors and out?

thanks

sardine

Aw damn. I accidentally cleared a nice response I had typed up. Stupid computers...

Sardine, you should do some searches on companion planting, there are some good threads on it already that will give you additional information. Also search for "integrated pest management," which is a great way of controlling pests if they get out of control.

There are many different plants that attract or repel insects. The best ones will be the ones that are native to your area. Beyond that, there are lots of herbs and flowers that will help out as well. Check out http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_companion_plants for a full list.

As for me, I have garlic, onions, borage, chamomile, nasturtium, blue hyssop, rosemary, nettle, comfrey, sage, and yarrow all growing throughout the yard. I like to attract insects, and "trap" the bad ones with nasturtium. 99% of insects are good, while the 1% are considered pests (by our standards at least). Promoting bio-diversity in your garden (especially with native plants) will help promote insects (which all compete with the "bad") within your local flora.

Que divertido!