Oh man whats gone wrong now?? stitch??

[hazeywonder]

Ok well here are the specs
room 72-76
water temp 68-72
ppm 1600
1600w 6in away

advanced 2 part
bloom tea
bigbud
sm-90
hydrozyme
baraciade
epson salt

I dont know whats going on i pulled them out of the veg at around 1400 so i dont know if its too much?
i think it might be a salt build up? but still not really sure.. it seems about a leaf or 2 per plant per day..








well there they are poor ladys, i think a flush is in order but hows my nutes should i cut back on the additives and just run the two part?
thank you

hazey

 

[SDBX2]

ppm 1600

hmmm.....maybe could do with a flush and back on to more gentle ones for a while. What's your ph like?

1600w 6in away

1600W how? 4 400's? 2 600's & a 400? If these are HPS then that's way too close. 400W = 12", 600W= 18" if I remember right.

Move the lights away to stated distances, give a flush, have a look at the roots and report back. Looks like loads of people are getting this salt build up/ slight root rot problem ATM - if you've got salt build up this will fry the roots and could eventually lead to root rot/pythium if they leave a lot of dead matter. I may be wrong but this is what I'm slowly but surely learning, or have logically concluded through having similar probs of my own.
You're using Hydrozyme, which may have proved itself in this instance......hopefully.

I reckon it's a build up of some kind, - it has this look of burn and defficiency at the same time to my eye anyway. One burns, the others lock out - or something.
Flush, pay roots LOTS of attention, and put on a balanced well ph'ed MILD feed for a while.
That's what I'm thinking anyway, better wait for someone else to answer though first

 

[hazeywonder]

Thank you for your reply

I think ill flush them tonight and put in just 1400 of nutes. The roots look ok they could have taken off better. But when i transplanted them i just laied the roots at the bottom.

I misstype its 1200w x2 on either side over 8 buckets
I think the light height is ok i havnt really had temp problems i mean plant tip closest to the light is like 82.

heres the room.

 

[Sauce]

Looks like nute burn. Check your ph. Is your ppm rising or falling in what amount of time? Rise/fall is more important than the number itself.

 

[powdergreen]

how far into flower are you that seems quite high 1600 ppm maybe flush and back nutes even further then 1400ppm

 

[hazeywonder]

It falls about 300-400 a week? maybe around their ill take better notes this week. the ph is ok, its on a controller but isnt used all that often...

2 weeks now.
I think ill take it to 1200 and go from there. I'm pretty sure my reading was so high because i added epson yesterday. I think i had it around 1500 but still to high..

 

[MTF-Sandman]

Looks like a simple mag def/lockout to me...what's the PH and water source/ppm?

 

[hazeywonder]

ok its been flushed and is now at 1000ppm adv. 2part/h202/sm-90 PH 5.7

Tap water right now since there are bio buckets. but i think my water is to hard it comes out of the tap at 273ppm. I have a ro unit i guess its time to just use it now.

you said mg def lock out. at what ph would this happen. I add epson last week and it didnt really seem to help.
things to do re cal ph meter and hook up ro unit.. i havnt run my ro unit yet but i know i need to add back the salts i hear about pk-14//?? is that the right thing i need im gunna make a hydro store run tomarrow.

 

[Ganja Guerrilla]

mag lockout

 

[MTF-Sandman]

From http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688 (MynameStitch's Sticky in this forum)

Magnesium (Mg) - Micronutrient and Mobile Element


Magnesium helps supports healthy veins while keeping a healthy leaf production and its structure. Magnesium is significant for chlorophyll-production and enzyme break downs. Magnesium which must be present in relatively large quantities for the plant to survive, but yet not to much to where it will cause the plant to show a toxicity.


Magnesium is one of the easiest deficiencies to tell… the green veins along with the yellowness of the entire surrounding leave is a dead giveaway, but sometimes that’s not always the case here. In case you have one of those where it doesn’t show the green veins, sometimes leaf tips and edges may discolor and curl upward. The growing tips can turn lime green when the deficiency progresses to the top of the plant. The edges will feel like dry and crispy and usually affects the lower leaves in younger plants, then will affect the middle to upper half when it gets older, but It can also happen on older leaves as well. The deficiency will start at the tip then will take over the entire outer left and right sides of the leaves. The inner part will be yellow and or brownish in color, followed by leaves falling without withering. The tips can also twist and turn as well as curving upwards as if you curl your tongues.


Excessive levels of magnesium in your plants will exhibit a buildup of toxic salts that will kill the leaves and lock out other nutrients like Calcium (Ca). Mg can get locked out by having too much Calcium, Chlorine or ammonium in your soil/water.
One of the worst problems a person can have is a magnesium def caused by a ph lockout. By giving it more magnesium to cure the problem when you are thinking you are doing good, but actually you are doing more harm then good. When the plants can’t take in a nutrient because of the ph being off for that element, the plant will not absorb it but it will be in the soil… therefore causing a buildup. A buildup will be noticed by the outer parts of the plant becoming whitish and or a yellowish color. The tips and part way in on the inner leaves will die and feel like glass. Parts affected by Magnesium deficiency are: space between the veins (Interveinal) of older leaves; may begin around interior perimeter of leaf.




Problems with Magnesium being locked out by PH troubles

Light Acid Soils, soils with excessive potassium, calcium and or phosphorus


Soil

Magnesium gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0-6.4
Magnesium is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.5-9.1 . (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Magnesium deficiency.



Hydro and Soil less Mediums

Magnesium gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-5.7
Magnesium is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 5.8-9.1
(Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Magnesium deficiency.



Solution to fixing a Magnesium deficiency
Any Chemical/Organic nutrients that have Magnesium in them will fix a Magnesium deficiency. (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients or it will cause nutrient burn!)
Other nutrients that have magnesium in them are: Epsom salts, which is fast absorption. Dolomite lime and or garden lime (same thing just called different) which is slow absorption. Sulfate of Potash, Magnesia which is medium absorption. Worm Castings, which is slow absorption. Crabshell which is slow absorption. Earth Juice Mircoblast, which is fast acting. (a must buy!! Has lots of 2ndary nutrients).
Now if you added to much chemical nutrients and or organics,( which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) You need to Flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients.

------------------------------------------

My guess is lockout from all the nutes you cramming in them...in addition to the sketchy ppm tap water that probably contains lots of calcium.

I'd take them back down to around 800-900 for a week and see how they respond. The damaged leaves probably won't ever look normal again...you're just trying to keep it from spreading to new leaves.