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HAHAHA I concur..I know some people who use the flora series enjoy the simplicity and get great results( I did not know in the series there is"hardwater") must be new?
Alaskan fish emulsion 5-1-1 is a very easy to find and cheap veg nute, ~$15/gallon (@ home depot) it's a little short on Mg (magnesium) so adding 0.5-1 TEAspoons of epsum salt/gallon of solution (not table salt) MgSO4+7 H2O (hydrated magnesium sulfate) Which can be had for >$2 a pint, although it is crystalline (which will last a long time).... That's really all you need for veg of any plant, maybe some pH up or down if your water is fucked...
For flower, I like the Earth Juice line, in flowering I use their EJ bloom 0-3-1, the microblast (which is just a micro nute complex, copper, iron, molybdenum, calcium and so on) and their Meta-K which is 0-0-4 (i think, not quite sure, but as the name suggests it's just K [potassium]) The blend of bloom, meta-k and microblast works very well for me, I also use a dash of the alaskan fish emulsion 5-1-1 for nitrogen needs in flowering (especially for long flowering strains) Also, a dash of epsum salt in flowering is good too...
The main reason I use the EJ line is that it is affordable (~$15/quart) and free of nitrogen so I can get a "pre-flush" of nitrogen before the actual flush.
Thanks! good information. when a persons uses" micro" during flower stage along with a "bloom" should a person stop useing the micro in flowering (said use both in conjunction) I can see that but it goes aganist the "NO"-- N during flower stage
Sorry for the confusion, I was speaking of the earth juice microblast (Which is N free) and you're only using a few drops per gallon.
And I am in no way suggesting a person should use absolutely zero N during flowering, the plant needs some, but toward the last month (for standard 60-75 day strains) of flowering, you want two weeks with very little (or no) N but high P and K, then the final two weeks, just give them plain pH'ed water
thanks "Space Ghost" I was alway wondering about the no "N" issue, you know eeven when switching from grow/micro to bloom , I wasn't or didnt' understand about the use the "micro's" because of the"N" make sense NOW . what woul;d the findel two weeks stranght of P and K before final two wels (advanced bloom work? THanks
in the flowering stage use bloom with micro then four week prior harvest date = 1st two weeks use just bloom, no "N" then weeks 3&4 just flush them harvest, something like that or am I getting to compliated, I do try to keep thungs simple. THANKS
For the majority of my grows, i use a mix of early low-stress training, followed by a lot of super-cropping, and and sometimes a ScrOG, but
I always seem to over veg with the scrogs and things can quickly get out of hand... lol
If you ever have any other questions/concerns, feel free to PM me if you'd like...
Thanks again ,I will PM you for help. what about the "natural" way then supercropping for higher yield, start supercropping when?( veg stage?, right) SCRoG to much time < not that I.m lazy. appreciate your input!
, your information is right on and I DO appreciate you answering my questions with quality/professional answers, can't express my graduatitudefor you help and honesty, also thank for inviting me to as an "PM" if needed THANKS again just an ending note what is your favorite growing method, and why yield?
I prefer a soil, large containers, organic ferts, long veg times, lots of training and topping/supercropping to achieve a fairly even canopy to create what looks like a SoG but with far far fewer plants... And yes, most of my methods are used to increase yield but, to me it's all about an efficient and productive canopy. I am a firm believer that growing plant naturally (no training, supercroping) is very inefficient (for the majority of strains I have run).
So I got my Sensi Grow and Bloom today -I ordered it before reading up (and they sent two extra bottles by mistake). So what´s the last take on these? Anything I should know?