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Nute burn or defiency?

G

Guest

So, ive only fed these plants once. a few days ago, at 1/4 teaspoon of AN grow. out of 13 plants. only 3 of them showed problems.

Usually nute burn starts at the tip of the leaves doesnt it? on the first picture you can see it started more inwards. the pH of the plants runoff tested to around 6.1-6.3. am i correct to assume this is nute burn?



 

Gangabiss

free your SELF
Veteran
I'm pretty positive you have a magnesium deficiency. Notice how the leaf veins remain somewhat green and the tissue in between is dying away. These are classic signs of a mg deficiency.
Is it mainly on the bottom leaves and not on the grow tips correct?

Add half a teaspoon of epsom salts per gallon of water and give them a good watering...should sort it out.
 
G

Guest

Yep, its mostly on the bottom leaves. not even close to any of the new growth. I will try the epsom salt, thanks gangabiss =)
 

HeadyPete

Take Five...
Veteran
the pH of the plants runoff tested to around 6.1-6.3

Sorry to say but your ph is too low, therefore causing lockout of calcium, mag, and possibly potassium, causing the symptoms you see now. In this early stage symptoms of several defs look similar. Ideal ph is 6.8 -7.0. Do not underestimate how far out your ph is. Each point of ph up or down is a tenfold increase or decrease in acidity of the soil.

Epsom salt will do nothing if your ph is low like it is. I would use CalMag anyway, pot loves calcium and Epsom salt doesn't have it.

Add dolomite lime as per instructions to your soil mix next time to help buffer your ph.

Read this thread for all the info you ever wanted on plant problems with pictures - http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688

Good luck, I will be lurking :D

Oh yeah, I would delete all pot pics off any outside image host like the one you are using (imagesocket) as it is unsafe. Upload your photos here to IC mag in your gallery, then you can paste them in your posts right from your gallery.

If you are unsure how to do this just pm me and I will explain.
 
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first of what are you growing in if its peat based soilless mix your ph isnt that bad at all, second are you using 3part formula and only adding grow???? YOu have to have micros also. What is the Ph of water that goes into plants?? are you using tap water?do you know the ppm of starting water? how old are your plants? what type off lights are you using? some more info would be a little easier to diagnose.
 

HeadyPete

Take Five...
Veteran
Plant Infirmary said:
Problems with Magnesium being locked out by PH troubles

Light Acid Soils, soils with excessive potassium, calcium and or phosphorus


Soil

Magnesium gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0-6.4
Magnesium is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.5-9.1 . (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Magnesium deficiency.

PH is too low

syztem said:
the pH of the plants runoff tested to around 6.1-6.3
 
G

Guest

no, it is not a 3 part formula. it is a 1 part formula. the plants are about 19 days old. the ph of the tap water i use is about 8.0-8.3. just 42w CFL's x3. as far as raising my ph back up goes, should i use pH corrected water, or just continue to use the base 8.0-ish ph tap water?
 

HeadyPete

Take Five...
Veteran
Is the tap water chlorinated? Chlorine has a ph of 11 and if you leave the water in an open container overnight the chlorine will dissipate as a gas, therefore lowering the ph of the water as it leaves. Bubbling the water with an airstone will speed up the process.

Now chlorine is not good to give to your plants so make sure that the water is either free of chlorine or used distilled/spring water. Distilled is best because it has a ppm of zero, so only your additives are going to the plants.

Use proper ph up or down to correct your watering solutions and monitor the ph of the runoff water.

If this is the base conditions of your water and will not change, then the ph should be raised higher gradually to bring up the soil ph. Normal microbial activity in the soil will naturally pull the ph down acidic. Also, guanos and fish meals are acidic and usually the main components of organic nutes. 1 point of ph up or down is a 10 fold change in the acidity or alkalinity. 8.0 ph is 10 times more alkaline than 7.0 and a hundred times more alkaline than 6.0. Plants and fish msut have the ph changed very gradually to avoid ill effects.

PH is probably the most important variable in growing because if it is not correct, everything else you do will be harmful. Usually people misinterpret as a deficiency and add more nutes to the already ample supply in the soil, but because the ph has locked it up, the plant can't use it. If you add more you kill the plant from overfeeding, even though it can't "eat".

The AN grom is a good base tea to feed with but after some experience you will get to know what the plant wants and you will be able to supplement with extra nitrogen (N) (bloodmeal, bat, bird guano - must be insect eating guano for nitrogen), extra phosphorus (P) (fruit eating bat and bird guano, bone meal) and other secondary and micro nutes as the plants need it. Each strain is different and even each plant has different needs.

When you bloom, use the AN bloom but will need to add extra P when the flowering really kicks in.

Also, when you do start feeding, add kelp meal to the soil or liquid kelp to your solution every watering untill the last 2-3 weeks before harvest, which must be plain water flush only. This is a must to ensure the best tasting and smelling bud and to flush out all unused nutes in the plant. Kelp is rich in potassium (K) and micronutes and growth hormones (auxins) and other beneficial ingredients for plants.

Get some Cal Mag soon cause those plants will crave calcium when they start growing good and epson salt has zero calcium. That is a must.

You will see that feeding properly is an art and you must observe, learn and listen to your plants to see what they want. There are many products but you don't need them all. The general rule of thumb is less is more (but not deficient) A plant will grow fine underfed, but will probably be smaller than potential, an overfed plant will die.

PH is the key to everything! If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.

Good luck and peace. :yes:
 

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