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fungusshui

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Creeperpark

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That shouldn't be a problem, it looks like a water issue. However, I need some details about the plants. Indoor or outdoor, what kind of soil mix, what kind of water, what kind of nutrients, how many nutrients have you given the plant. Can you take a photo of the whole plant in the container? Need more details. 😎
 

fungusshui

New member
Thanks for reaching out! This is my first grow. Three separate plants… one (tic tax) in a 20 gal of stonington blend from coast of Maine with build a soils craft blend mixed in. Then the other 20 gal of the same soil was shared by a sour dub and an ogkb 2.1. Recently tested water to be a ph of 6. Was just top dressing once a month with craft blend, then the tic tax got the interveinal Chlorosis that led me to put epsom salt in to address the magnesium deficiency and gave some to the other plants too. Things started to look better but for some reason I put in more epsom salt and to all of the plants, again. And it was then I first noticed the leaves zig zagging then tips were yellowing and more chlorosis across the leaves. One plant stayed pretty green but had purpling accompany the distorted leaves.
Last night I lolipopped and transplanted them into craft blend amended mushrooms compost at the recommendation of a growshop I get supplies from. It was my gut instinct to at least transplant out of the soil that maybe I induced nutrient lock out in. Not to sure, I appreciate any thoughts!!
 

fungusshui

New member
Also, sorry a all in a 5x5 tent with a dehumidifier outside (ducting on face to pull out through tent port) need to find a better one if you have any recommendations. a 600w chilLED light and ac infinity t6 with a couple fans
 

Ca++

Well-known member
Need to check the runoff pH isn't off the clock.

I don't see Mg deficiency. I see a lot of dark P signs. Mg helps P. So could explain Mg helping momentarily.
P can lead to Zn signs. Sometimes (I read) people see the Zn stripes first.

Zinc " Interveinal chlorosis, reduction in the size of young leaves having bronze and purple, violet, reddish-brown or brown colouration of the foliage are the prominent deficiency symptoms "


pH would be a good start. Once we have had a proper look
 

fungusshui

New member
Need to check the runoff pH isn't off the clock.

I don't see Mg deficiency. I see a lot of dark P signs. Mg helps P. So could explain Mg helping momentarily.
P can lead to Zn signs. Sometimes (I read) people see the Zn stripes first.




pH would be a good start. Once we have had a proper look
Here’s what I suspected as Mg deficiency a few weeks ago. Treated with epsom salt. And that’s when everything seemed to get worse.
 

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Ca++

Well-known member
Mg is mobile. Starts from the bottom. Mistaken for Nitrogen. Doesn't really make strong leaves with strong patterning. A leaf will get interveinal chlorosis, which doesn't stay contained. It will spread out over the veins, turning leaves yellow, while dying back from the front. At this point, the similarity to N def is strong. Sometimes the stripes are barely ahead of the turn to yellow. The yellow they turn isn't so pale as with N. The result is dropping bottom leaves, as the problem moves up the plant.

Some red stems there. Possibly P. Also the next plant has some dark green wrinkly P leaves.


Looking at the thumbnail, just as a thumbnail, you can see the lighter edges of calcium deficiency. A few pics have shown Ca. That was a while ago. Now we have leaves that look like pH is forming insoluble stuff. I wonder if these early signs are a better guide to the problem, than the after-effects.

Really need pH. Can't change anything, until we look at availability.
 

Creeperpark

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Stonington blend from coast of Maine is a potting mix that needs nothing but water. The ppm runs in the 3900s or over 6.5 EC. When you put a small plant in a large amount of high organic soil mix the organic salts rise with every watering. Every time you water a 20-gallon container the water stays longer because the plant quits transpiring water because of high EC. If you keep watering the large container it will burn the roots. When you use a 20-gallon container for a 3-gallon plant, there will be too many salts for the plant to use and become locked up. The plant above is burnt from a high EC from too many organic amendments being released at one time. The Fix would be to start with smaller containers and use pure water. Small pots first and transplant up as the plant's roots fill up the container. Start with 1 gallon then move to 3 gallons then to the larger ones. Common Mistake. 😎
 

Ca++

Well-known member
I remember when I thought plants were made of food. Trying to feed them as much as possible. As early as possible.
The better route is to pot them in sizes like you see at any nursery. When they look like they are exhausting that pot, use a bigger pot. That is how you add food, when your soil is the food. This continues until almost inevitably, they demand food in bloom. That's when most organic growers reach for the bottle. An organically derived bottle. I see no problem with this as the product is still from organic sources. A correction from the bottle can help steer the plant. It's then a bottle grow though. Not the strictly organic grow that some strive for.

I can bring on them stripes in coco with high EC. I can totally get behind the idea it's too rich.
 
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