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NGB MICRO BOX

G

Guest

wasup buddy :wave:

sweet cab seriously!

is the filter exhausting inside that utility chamber? does it have vent holes?

i looked at all your pics and that's all i can think of, looks great!.......

oh ya and watch out for explosive growth since you have limited headroom, continuous water culture (dwc, swc) growth really takes off once the roots are established.
 
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stevr59

Active member
Well Boy's and Gurl's just to keep every one up to date on whats going on look's like i waited to long on my harvest still dont see any amber but the buds are not looking to good look's like there way past due so i am starting my flush so looks like tues day i will be chopping may be its my eye's but i cant see no amber looks like all couldy and some clear, but i am all ready in 12 week's in a 8 week strain. but on the good side i just smoke some lil pop corn bud's off of her i fast dryed them over a 60 watt light bulb and took about 5 tokes and i am realy messed up right now and the smoke was very smooth for fast drying, looks like i got some killer smoke here. will try and get some pics of it tonite.
 
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Kreat

Member
I was just thinking to my self, Do you think that a 70 watt HPS would make to much heat for the mother chamber? I'd rather have a nice HID then some CFL. It will cost about the same anyway in the long run. What I'd prob do it modify the box so 2 of the 1 in elbow PVC is pointing at the light and the light will be mounted to the cieling. Any thoughts?
 
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stevr59

Active member
ummmmmmmmm not shure bu a good chane it would unless you enlage the intake you can all ways do a test run and do a temp check first if tohigh may be add some 2" intake on the bottom of the box.
 
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DurbanPoison

Member
Kreat:
I would almost do the whole system with floros from my experience now. I'm sure it could be done successfully. In micro, i think its best to avoid hps except in the larger areas. They really produce a large amount of heat and I don't think it would be a good idea to run a 70whps in the mother chamber. Give it a shot though if you like and let us know. I prefer the floros also because in the mother room you'll also be starting new seeds/clones and they need a limited amount of light at first and you can't really control that on an hps IMO.

Stevr:
Man, can you try and take some new pics of your pistils? I'm really curious about this whole amber issue. You really should be seeing some amber by now on any strain at 12 weeks thats just crazy. Lighting I have read can also effect when you see amber. You can also judge by pistils too though. How are the hairs any how color wise? It's better to harvest slightly early than too late IMO as well.

User Name:
Thanks for the tips man. Yeah the utility room has a hexagonal shape hole in the back where all the air is exhausted. I originally wanted the fan to suck thru the filter, but the size of that 150cfm vortex fan wouldn't allow it in the small quarters that NGB designed for the utility room. So I just ran it in reverse and it's most definitely working. My seedlings are only about 30 days and starting to produce a heavy smell which is crazy in veg. My last crops never produced much smell. Anyhow the DIY carbon filter I made is most definitely doing its job still even tho the filter is in reverse order. On the plus side, down the road should I change directions, I won't need to change the carbon. Thats the crap part about most carb filters is that typically only one end gets used.

Thanks for the replies everyone! Keep it growing all.

~DP
 
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DurbanPoison

Member
User Name:
One other thing about the rapid rooters. I have also been thinking that I might just clone as usual with the rapid rooters and once the roots are well established then I could just drop the rooter plug into a small hole on the top of the tub.

Lastly, if anyone knows where I can get some of this:
http://www.icmag.com/ic/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=208087&size=big&sort=1&cat=500
I would be ever so appreciative of doing a clone/bean trade. Or a referral to a bean bank etc. Thanks in advance.
 
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stevr59

Active member
Ok this is the best i can do i did a buch of cropping and other stuff this is as close as i can get to the bud my cam will not foucs any closer.
 
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DurbanPoison

Member
Stevr:
That's really strange man. In some areas it looks like its gone too far and some areas it looks under-developed. My experience has been that all the pistils (or at least close to 60-70% of the pistils) change color. I'm really surprised to hear that you don't see any amber yet. My reading has shown that you want the pistils to still have a red tint to them and letting them go brown is too far. What nutes did you use? & What strain is that? If they were organic nutes I believe it only takes around 3-4 days to flush. I might reccomend one other thing as well since you've been flowering so long, change your light to 8on/16off. If not beneficial for the plant to produce more resin, at least it will allow it to stop degrading the trichs. There's my $.02. :) :wave:
 
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G

Guest

stevr59 said:
Ok this is the best i can do i did a buch of cropping and other stuff this is as close as i can get to the bud my cam will not foucs any closer.
Click to expand...


"I'm the Juggernaut Bitch!"


















Mutant maybe?!?!
 
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stevr59

Active member
well i all ready change my light to 8 /16 2 weeks ago as for the nutes i am useing GH Floranova bloom and foraluish and the starin is a AK47 Crossed with Bubbleberry i know it look weired like you said looks like some parts are over developed and other are not. look like i need to seek out a pro and see what they say i swaer i didnt have this proublem last grow and this is a clone from the last grow i did noitce the clone i made from this grow are looking wierd as well notice that the leafs sets are 3 per but one on each plants has just 2 leafs may be its cuz of cloning clones
 
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DurbanPoison

Member
Cab Construction Tips

Cab Construction Tips

Just thought I might add some tips for those of you constructing NGB Cabs:

A. [Utility Room Access]
Stevr pointed this out: Make the door on the utility chamber on the top preferrably, or on the side rather than the front. It's a complete Pain In The Ass to get to your equipment with the limited space etc.

Note - If you prefer to leave the door on the front, you can leave the wall open in the utility interior to the flower room as a window. That's what I did. It also makes it easier to modify that space when you need to make ventillation from the flower to the utility room so you don't have to get inside the cab to do it.

B. [Grow Chamber Access]
Use drawer slides. When you see how small the chambers are, you wont want to be messing around in the back much without them because it's inconvenient. The lost head space is less than 1" so it's not that big of a deal. I bought two pairs of ball bearing slides from casa depot and mounted them to the floor. [$15 ea.] Fairly easy install even with limited woodworking skill.

Install Tip - Just mount the slides to the drawer with the end being paralell to the end of the drawer closest to the cab's front door. Place it in the chamber and pressing somewhat firmly, slowly pull the drawer out as if the slides were installed and hold the back of the slide to the floor. Once it's fully extended, use a marker and mark the holes on the slide. Remove all the equipment and drill a tiny hole on each mark. Then disassemble the slides and screw them to the floor. If done right, they should slide back in no problem.

Note - The flower chamber is well supported by using just one slide.

C. [Ventillation]
(If using Drawer Slides) - An easy way to add intakes to your box is just drill 1" holes in the floor from where you want the air to draw from. The air will be cooler and you dont have to worry about light leakes because the slide is above them. I drilled two 1" holes in the flower room and then I have the 2" PVC coming from the mother room so not all the air used is heated in the mother room. Since the air is moved to the utility room on the west side, I put my holes on the floor on the east side to help circulate the air. In addition to this, I would recommend use of only 1" PVC elbows in the mother chamber as intakes. 2" PVC elbows leak light and take up way too much room. Space is limited enough as it is!

Note - I just took out my middle PVC elbow in the mother room to free up some room and electrical taped the outside temporarily until I find a 2" PVC stop to fill the hole more professionally. I may end up sealing the holes up and doing 1" PVC elbows like I did at first. The PVC to the flower chamber is only 2" in diameter anyway so it can't suck more than 2" area anyhow. In my ipinion, you want the intake area just slightly smaller if not equal to in the mother room to the flower room as to prevent any stinky air from escaping. Any cracks etc will be sucked in.

Note 2 - If you decide to get the 175CFM Vortex 4" Inline Fan - you won't find it cheaper anywhere than here - http://www.plantlightinghydroponics.com/index.php?cPath=76_352 . Also, this fan will not fit in the utility room with the original NGB cab size. If stealth isn't as important, you could leave the fan on the back of the cab and just mount your carbon filter hanging inside the utility room. This will allow a better seal and more direct air-flow. It's better to suck thru the filter anyway.

Well those are all the tips I can think of at the moment, hope they help prevent potential mistakes for those of you that decide to duplicate NGB's awesome design.
 
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DurbanPoison

Member
I don't think that cloning clones is a big deal. I think its a good idea to take a bunch of extra clones though and select the best ones for your grow. I happened to read today that sometimes a bad clone you can end up with undesirable traits like 3 leaf instead of 5-7. It may have just been a bad cut from when you took cuttings. Definitely find an expert though - I don't have that much experience in that department.
 
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Kreat

Member
Duban when you say to make the utlity Door on top could you give wood cut sizes for that? I'm not much of a carpenter and am not exactly sure what size cuts I would need then to modify the orginal plans. Thanks
 
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DurbanPoison

Member
Sorry Kreat,

I have no idea. I don't have the door on the top myself like I stated in my post. I just left the utility room space open so you can see it from the flower chamber. Then I cut a separate piece of wood to fit in it's place and hung it there with some basic brackets & some good duct tape of course so it's not permanent but will remain fairly air tight.

I'll see if I can measure it up for you later on tonight or tomorrow morning once I find my tape measure. It's lost in the voids at the moment.
 
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DurbanPoison

Member
My precise measurements after creation-

3/4" MDF Wood
[2 Count] 20 7/8" x 30" Sides
[2 Count] 35 1/2" x 21" Top/Bottom
[1 Count] 35 1/2" x 31" Back

[1 Count] 26 1/8" x 31" Flower Door
[1 Count] 9 1/4" x 18 1/8" Mother Door
[1 Count] 9 1/4 x 12 3/4" Utility Door

[1 Count] 29 1/2" x 21" Flower Room Divider
[1 Count] 8 1/4" x 21" Shelf for Utility

[1 Count] 21" x 24 1/2" Flower Room Drawer Slide
[1 Count] 21" x 7 1/2" Mother Room Drawer Slide

Other needed equipment-
2 Pairs of Ball Bearing Drawer Slides [150lb. Capacity]
2 Swivel Wheel Casters [75lb. Capacity]
2 Locking Swivel Wheel Casters [75lb. Capacity]

6 Adjustable Door Hinges

3 Door Locks
Then you can pick out your own door locks if you want/need them. I'm not using any at the moment.

P.s. You will only need one drawer slide installed in the Mother Room - the other is a waste of space in my opinion because it will be balance with the minimal weight put up on it even with just 1 slide. Plus it's a super pain in the ass to install. Flower room definitely needs both.
 
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stevr59

Active member
wooooooooo there think ya need to re check ur stuff bro only 2 peices for the top not 3 and where did you get 20 and 7/8 at?
 
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