NFTG Deficiencies

[Theta]

I am having deficiencies in a couple of my plants.
I am on day 16 and using Coco coir and the roman regimen. My slurries are 6.4-6.6 and 300-400ppm.

It looks like Mg and P def for the Wedding cake and I am not quite sure about the Duct Tape. I am considering switching back to salts but the Ph for nectar in Coco is pretty far from the ideal Ph for salts so I am concerned the plants would go into shock.

 

[TanzanianMagic]

I am having deficiencies in a couple of my plants.
I am on day 16 and using Coco coir and the roman regimen. My slurries are 6.4-6.6 and 300-400ppm.

It looks like Mg and P def for the Wedding cake and I am not quite sure about the Duct Tape. I am considering switching back to salts but the Ph for nectar in Coco is pretty far from the ideal Ph for salts so I am concerned the plants would go into shock.

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It looks most like phosphorus deficiency.
https://www.agzaar.com/phosphorus-deficiency-cannabis/

The plant is in early flowering, the largest leaves are most affected, which makes it a mobile nutrient deficiency - NPK, Mg. It's not the chlorosis and clawing of nitrogen deficiency, it's not the serrated edge damage of potassium, so it's phosphorus or magnesium. Considering the leaves are curling upward, it looks most like phosphorus deficiency.

That's most likely because the plant used a lot of phophorus in early flowering, when it is expanding the root system to facilitate all the new flowers and calyxes.

 

[PurplePotion]

They look hungryyyyyyyy. I’m not familiar with the regimen you’re running, but Typical EC levels are double/triple what you’re running at this stage. I’d definitely ramp up the food overall.

 

[TanzanianMagic]

They look hungryyyyyyyy. I’m not familiar with the regimen you’re running, but Typical EC levels are double/triple what you’re running at this stage. I’d definitely ramp up the food overall.

I agree, and..

I am on day 16 and using Coco coir and the roman regimen. My slurries are 6.4-6.6 and 300-400ppm.

...

I am considering switching back to salts but the Ph for nectar in Coco is pretty far from the ideal Ph for salts so I am concerned the plants would go into shock.

I would say the best thing is to go back coco specific nutrients and a steady pH of 6.0. (A little higher in the heaviest growth phase and a little lower than 6.0 in the last month/flushing.)

--

What is in the organic nutrients is too low in concentration and/or unavailable to the plant. Organic nutrients are raw materials, that have to be processed through microbes and fungi. So you're really providing most of the nutrients in solid form, and then feed the fungi calories and carbon so they can process the organics into something the plant can use.

--

I use this with supersoil as a basis of all kinds of organic amendments. In this context, I do use mineral nutrients but in low concentration (0.4 EC) and only once or twice during the grow, when I want to encourage root growth. The rest of the grow is raw organic nutrients, seeds/fruit for the microbes, tapwater and sometimes a kombucha made from hemp leaves, raw sugar and tapwater.

 

[hyposomniac]

Hey Theta, I've used these nutes for 4 or 5 runs, including coco, and would take the feeding regimens with a grain of salt. I definitely had some plants that looked like yours.
Forgive the sloppiness but here's my notes. Column C shows the ionic ppms when used at the dose column B. It was calculated to give 100ppm of the most abundant element.

Now if you use this to calculate the actual ppms you are feeding in the Roman regiment, you'll see pretty strange numbers.
It doesn't help that much of their tech info is kinda bullshitty and evasive.

Got to where I used the Medusa fertilizer, which is good product, add my own gypsum to get the cal numbers right instead of the epic amounts of liquid bone. Add their pure nitrogen product and some. mag sulfate to green them up. And added K of my own. the aminos and humic product are good too. All pricey though.
the demeter calcium certainly works, but again it's pricey and the marketing for it is BS, i. e., they say don't use calmag, demeter unlocks the natural magnesium in your media. Meanwhile I found an old msds for the product that shows its basically calmag., containing mag sulfate and some chelated cal.
Huge amounts of P in this line already.

Fwiw, i don't use it anymore..

 

[Theta]

Thank you for this, I am pretty pissed that this is the case. I could buy powder chelated calcium and magnesium/epsom. I always wondered how this would work with unlocking the magnesium from the coco coir.

Definitely going to switch nutrients once I can. Converting my clones now so I can do a proper run.

Thank you for the advice.

 

[Theta]

I agree, and..



I would say the best thing is to go back coco specific nutrients and a steady pH of 6.0. (A little higher in the heaviest growth phase and a little lower than 6.0 in the last month/flushing.)

--

What is in the organic nutrients is too low in concentration and/or unavailable to the plant. Organic nutrients are raw materials, that have to be processed through microbes and fungi. So you're really providing most of the nutrients in solid form, and then feed the fungi calories and carbon so they can process the organics into something the plant can use.

--

I use this with supersoil as a basis of all kinds of organic amendments. In this context, I do use mineral nutrients but in low concentration (0.4 EC) and only once or twice during the grow, when I want to encourage root growth. The rest of the grow is raw organic nutrients, seeds/fruit for the microbes, tapwater and sometimes a kombucha made from hemp leaves, raw sugar and tapwater.

Going to agree, switching to coco nutrients so this grow doesn't implode.

The hard part for me with organics is my EC meter tells me it is 2100 ppms. The plants acts like I am giving it 350 ppms and it wants 1000 ppms. With salts there is no question and I can modify the concentration based on plant response.

Going to water at 5.7ph to bring the ph down to an ideal level.

Thank you

 

[TanzanianMagic]

The hard part for me with organics is my EC meter tells me it is 2100 ppms. The plants acts like I am giving it 350 ppms and it wants 1000 ppms. With salts there is no question and I can modify the concentration based on plant response.

If the PPM meter was callibrated correctly, 2100 PPM would be literally off the charts. This conversion chart goes to 3.2 EC which is 1600 ppm. (EC to Hanna/ppm)

https://manicbotanix.com/ec-to-ppm-conversion-chart-2/

So a long slow flush with a very low ppm coco nutrient solution at 6.0 first, and then returning to first 0.6 EC and up of coco nutrients, would be the best.

Cheers, and let us know how the grow goes.

 

[Theta]

If the PPM meter was callibrated correctly, 2100 PPM would be literally off the charts. This conversion chart goes to 3.2 EC which is 1600 ppm. (EC to Hanna/ppm)

https://manicbotanix.com/ec-to-ppm-conversion-chart-2/

So a long slow flush with a very low ppm coco nutrient solution at 6.0 first, and then returning to first 0.6 EC and up of coco nutrients, would be the best.

Cheers, and let us know how the grow goes.

Thank you, for the help. I have watered 3 times since my first post with coco nutrients @ 5.9-6.0ph and 1.6-2.2 EC. It stoped all the deficiencies and every single plant is happy.

I would agree 2100 would be crazy and that is when I realized the organic nutrients are hard to control. I also realized NFTG would cost a ton per gallon and take hours to prep. I know coco+salt growers who grow great stuff. I only went to organic because someone else wanted it that way.

But like they say - Don’t fix it if it isn’t broken.