Hello to all,
Please excuse the long winded nature of the post - kind of like how my head works - all of the place!
I've been reading the forum on and off for a few years and finally started putting together my drobe.
Dimensions
0.85 m x 0.55 m x 2.35 m = 1.07 cubic meters
Equipment
TD Silent 350/125 (350/250 m/hr)
8" Rhino Pro (800 m/hr) - initially I read about oversizing filter and fan so believed that would be the best option turn down on a controller to minimise noise and cut running costs.
5" Goldstar air cooled hood
250-600 W Dimmable ballast
6" Accoustic ducting
250 mH bulb
Passive vent hole (375 x 100 mm) and if it performs at 100% then should have an area of 37500 which is more than the 10% minimum recommended for a 6" exit hole (even although the fan is only 5"). Please note this is half of a fitted double wardrobe and wanted to intake from the closed side of the wardrobe i.e. from where clothes are.
I haven't quite finished building the drobe. I got a delivery of the equipment which meant I have been trying to build and play with my toys after my pants poor attempts at diy. The space is lined from bottom up to 1.8 with diamond reflective sheeting.
I had ordered the majority of stuff before i started reading the "Ventilation 101" and "understanding airflow" threads and now beginning to think I might have fallen victim to the "boys toys/bigger is always better" attitude which I now have my doubts about!
Anyway, enough of my slaver - here's my concerns -
I have hung the carbon filter with the fan stuck inside the barrel at the top of the drobe which is ducted to the hood then loops up and out of the roof to the attic.
The drobe isn't yet light or air tight, but i wanted to get an idea of temps etc so hopefully my preliminary findings are false and I'm flapping over nothing but as it stands I'm flapping.
I put in a hygrometer and with the light hanging at 3 feet temp is 84. I put the hygrometer on the rail that supports the light (directly under the filter) and the temp is 77.
Using Hoosier's formula
Airflow = 3.16 x watts / temperature difference of ambient and exit point would suggest there's no airflow on the floor and 112.8 m/hr (?)
What i'm asking i suppose is
1) Will it make a difference having the drobe sealed/air tight therefore using the passive more efficiently to vent in cooler air (the room temperature outside the wardrobe is )
2) Do i need to add more passive holes?
3) Should I move the filter to the the precious little floorspace since it seems to be sucking heat from near but not far from it? Or does the cooler temp at the top suggest that there's a leak in the ducting perhaps?
I had hoped to flower with 400 hps - is this all too "Hans Christian Andersen" and just be happy that I can get the 250 working?
Finally will an active intake be essential? If the case of an active intake - would it count if I used say a pc fan to cool the tube independently and added a t or y at the exit hole so no more cutting into the ceiling?
Again my profuse apologies for the gibber - although my post might indicate complete ignorance - I have been reading for months about this and thought I had a master plan but at present dejected and more than a little concerned that what I spent was all a big waste of mullah.
All the best and thanks for reading
Please excuse the long winded nature of the post - kind of like how my head works - all of the place!
I've been reading the forum on and off for a few years and finally started putting together my drobe.
Dimensions
0.85 m x 0.55 m x 2.35 m = 1.07 cubic meters
Equipment
TD Silent 350/125 (350/250 m/hr)
8" Rhino Pro (800 m/hr) - initially I read about oversizing filter and fan so believed that would be the best option turn down on a controller to minimise noise and cut running costs.
5" Goldstar air cooled hood
250-600 W Dimmable ballast
6" Accoustic ducting
250 mH bulb
Passive vent hole (375 x 100 mm) and if it performs at 100% then should have an area of 37500 which is more than the 10% minimum recommended for a 6" exit hole (even although the fan is only 5"). Please note this is half of a fitted double wardrobe and wanted to intake from the closed side of the wardrobe i.e. from where clothes are.
I haven't quite finished building the drobe. I got a delivery of the equipment which meant I have been trying to build and play with my toys after my pants poor attempts at diy. The space is lined from bottom up to 1.8 with diamond reflective sheeting.
I had ordered the majority of stuff before i started reading the "Ventilation 101" and "understanding airflow" threads and now beginning to think I might have fallen victim to the "boys toys/bigger is always better" attitude which I now have my doubts about!
Anyway, enough of my slaver - here's my concerns -
I have hung the carbon filter with the fan stuck inside the barrel at the top of the drobe which is ducted to the hood then loops up and out of the roof to the attic.
The drobe isn't yet light or air tight, but i wanted to get an idea of temps etc so hopefully my preliminary findings are false and I'm flapping over nothing but as it stands I'm flapping.
I put in a hygrometer and with the light hanging at 3 feet temp is 84. I put the hygrometer on the rail that supports the light (directly under the filter) and the temp is 77.
Using Hoosier's formula
Airflow = 3.16 x watts / temperature difference of ambient and exit point would suggest there's no airflow on the floor and 112.8 m/hr (?)
What i'm asking i suppose is
1) Will it make a difference having the drobe sealed/air tight therefore using the passive more efficiently to vent in cooler air (the room temperature outside the wardrobe is )
2) Do i need to add more passive holes?
3) Should I move the filter to the the precious little floorspace since it seems to be sucking heat from near but not far from it? Or does the cooler temp at the top suggest that there's a leak in the ducting perhaps?
I had hoped to flower with 400 hps - is this all too "Hans Christian Andersen" and just be happy that I can get the 250 working?
Finally will an active intake be essential? If the case of an active intake - would it count if I used say a pc fan to cool the tube independently and added a t or y at the exit hole so no more cutting into the ceiling?
Again my profuse apologies for the gibber - although my post might indicate complete ignorance - I have been reading for months about this and thought I had a master plan but at present dejected and more than a little concerned that what I spent was all a big waste of mullah.
All the best and thanks for reading