So the #1 grower error is over watering?
I suggest the most frequent challenge for new growers is getting their pH buffer in the correct range. Proper pH allows roots to absorb nutrients. Improper pH reduces and even prevents nute absorption. You'll get nutrient deficiencies if the medium is too acidic. In this case, nutes build up in the soil and nutrient lock out may occur. Instead of roots absorbing nutrients in the medium, plants cannibalize their leaves in attempts to survive. Left alone, too much acid may kill cannabis plants.
For the record, too alkaline is bad too.
We're talking soil (which is dirt) aka clay sand or loam based.
-OR-
Bagged potting-soil.
This is often referred to as soil less because it contains zero to little dirt. Depending on the conditions, dirt takes decades to materialize from organic decomposition.
Soil less potting mediums are by-and-large forest products. That is; peat, humus, tree bark etc... aged and composted to moderate acidic hot-spots in the mix.
Pick up a bag of potting soil and read the label. See lime listed?
That's not citrus lime. It's mineral lime mined from the earth. It's one type of buffer that raises the pH of your medium to weed friendly. It's also what buffers the range to keep your plants (and you) happy throughout the entire grow.
There are substitutes for lime and our members are listing alternatives. The key is buffering and lime is but one agent.
Never rest assured your soil less is straight to go out of the bag. pH ranges vary per plant species and even popular weed mediums like Fox Farm Ocean Forest, (peat and ferts in a bag) or Pro Mix (no ferts) are on the acidic end of the necessary range.
Potting soil manufacturers know not to overdo buffering agents because it's hard to go back w/o adding peat or other acidic ingredients. Some plants such as azaleas like acidic soil and there we have the reason your bag of potting soil isn't dialed to weed-specific.
Lime is one of the cheapest ingredients in your arsenal of buffering agents so there's no excuse not to be prepared.
There are different kinds of lime and different textures.
Dolomitic and Calcitic lime - Cannabis growers prefer dolomite or dolomitic lime because it contains Calcium (Ca) and Magnesium (Mg). Calcitic lime will buffer but it doesn't contain Mg.
powdered vs pelletized vs hydrated lime:
By and large, powdered dolomitic is best form of lime. It mixes more consistently and doesn't contain the clay that comprises pellet form. Powdered lime is dangerous to inhale (it's caustic.) So avoid breathing the dry powder that billows whenever messed with.
Pellet lime is contained by hardened clay so that billowing isn't an issue. Farmers use this outdoors in large quantities and the clay is partly for safety as well as endurance. Clay is also harder to over lime than sandy soils so it also acts as a measurement differential, (apply a little too much and everything's still okay.)
Hydrated lime - stay away unless you're familiar with this stuff. There are varied opinions whether one can actually over lime. With this stuff there's absolutely no doubt you can easily overdo. It's no better to have caustic soil than acidic.
The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14. Less than 7.0 pH is acidic and more than 7.0 is alkaline. Cannabis in soil and soil less likes a range better than one static pH value.
Generally, 6.5 to 6.8 is a good range to shoot for. You'll learn about varied amendments that might broaden this range but I won't get into it here.
Always test your medium before adding more buffering agent(s) and never plant w/o testing to see if additional buffers are necessary.
What you need first is a small pot of your medium to take the sample. Add enough water to get a measurable amount of runoff. Measure the runoff and adjust accordingly.
Un-ferted potting soils generally use lime at the rate of 1 tablespoon per gallon of mix. They're usually ~6.0 or less from the bag.
All peat or peat heavy mixes may take as much as 2 tablespoons lime per gallon. You might test this in the 5.5 or lower pH.
I've read that Fox Farm Ocean Forest rates a ~6.3 pH on average. A good measure of lime is one cup per cubic foot, that's equivilant to ~7 gallons
Once you've determined how much buffer to add, mix well into medium before planting. Lime is slow-acting and you can mix up a batch of medium for future grows and it'll actually work better than planting immediately. Add a little water to moisten (not saturate) the mix. A month or two to "cook" before planting makes it sing.
You can also get away with planting as soon as lime is added.
So come on, IC members! Lets hear what works best for you when using buffers in your popular or less than popular circumstance. And for the organic grower who suggests pH isn't an issue, please reflect you may still be adding buffers. Buffers are a big part of mixes with dry fert ingredients.
I suggest the most frequent challenge for new growers is getting their pH buffer in the correct range. Proper pH allows roots to absorb nutrients. Improper pH reduces and even prevents nute absorption. You'll get nutrient deficiencies if the medium is too acidic. In this case, nutes build up in the soil and nutrient lock out may occur. Instead of roots absorbing nutrients in the medium, plants cannibalize their leaves in attempts to survive. Left alone, too much acid may kill cannabis plants.
For the record, too alkaline is bad too.
We're talking soil (which is dirt) aka clay sand or loam based.
-OR-
Bagged potting-soil.
This is often referred to as soil less because it contains zero to little dirt. Depending on the conditions, dirt takes decades to materialize from organic decomposition.
Soil less potting mediums are by-and-large forest products. That is; peat, humus, tree bark etc... aged and composted to moderate acidic hot-spots in the mix.
Pick up a bag of potting soil and read the label. See lime listed?
That's not citrus lime. It's mineral lime mined from the earth. It's one type of buffer that raises the pH of your medium to weed friendly. It's also what buffers the range to keep your plants (and you) happy throughout the entire grow.
There are substitutes for lime and our members are listing alternatives. The key is buffering and lime is but one agent.
Never rest assured your soil less is straight to go out of the bag. pH ranges vary per plant species and even popular weed mediums like Fox Farm Ocean Forest, (peat and ferts in a bag) or Pro Mix (no ferts) are on the acidic end of the necessary range.
Potting soil manufacturers know not to overdo buffering agents because it's hard to go back w/o adding peat or other acidic ingredients. Some plants such as azaleas like acidic soil and there we have the reason your bag of potting soil isn't dialed to weed-specific.
Lime is one of the cheapest ingredients in your arsenal of buffering agents so there's no excuse not to be prepared.
There are different kinds of lime and different textures.
Dolomitic and Calcitic lime - Cannabis growers prefer dolomite or dolomitic lime because it contains Calcium (Ca) and Magnesium (Mg). Calcitic lime will buffer but it doesn't contain Mg.
powdered vs pelletized vs hydrated lime:
By and large, powdered dolomitic is best form of lime. It mixes more consistently and doesn't contain the clay that comprises pellet form. Powdered lime is dangerous to inhale (it's caustic.) So avoid breathing the dry powder that billows whenever messed with.
Pellet lime is contained by hardened clay so that billowing isn't an issue. Farmers use this outdoors in large quantities and the clay is partly for safety as well as endurance. Clay is also harder to over lime than sandy soils so it also acts as a measurement differential, (apply a little too much and everything's still okay.)
Hydrated lime - stay away unless you're familiar with this stuff. There are varied opinions whether one can actually over lime. With this stuff there's absolutely no doubt you can easily overdo. It's no better to have caustic soil than acidic.
The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14. Less than 7.0 pH is acidic and more than 7.0 is alkaline. Cannabis in soil and soil less likes a range better than one static pH value.
Generally, 6.5 to 6.8 is a good range to shoot for. You'll learn about varied amendments that might broaden this range but I won't get into it here.
Always test your medium before adding more buffering agent(s) and never plant w/o testing to see if additional buffers are necessary.
What you need first is a small pot of your medium to take the sample. Add enough water to get a measurable amount of runoff. Measure the runoff and adjust accordingly.
Un-ferted potting soils generally use lime at the rate of 1 tablespoon per gallon of mix. They're usually ~6.0 or less from the bag.
All peat or peat heavy mixes may take as much as 2 tablespoons lime per gallon. You might test this in the 5.5 or lower pH.
I've read that Fox Farm Ocean Forest rates a ~6.3 pH on average. A good measure of lime is one cup per cubic foot, that's equivilant to ~7 gallons
Once you've determined how much buffer to add, mix well into medium before planting. Lime is slow-acting and you can mix up a batch of medium for future grows and it'll actually work better than planting immediately. Add a little water to moisten (not saturate) the mix. A month or two to "cook" before planting makes it sing.
You can also get away with planting as soon as lime is added.
So come on, IC members! Lets hear what works best for you when using buffers in your popular or less than popular circumstance. And for the organic grower who suggests pH isn't an issue, please reflect you may still be adding buffers. Buffers are a big part of mixes with dry fert ingredients.
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