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Need Help Identifying Problem(s) Lots of photos

Peregrin Took

Peregrin Took

Active member
I will leave the potato slices for another 12 hours to see what else pops up.

I did however do a slurry test for the pH and sure enough it has jumped back up to nearly 8, so this is my prime suspect right now.

I have been watering with ph 5.8 - 6 for a couple weeks now, but it doesn't seem to be cutting it apparently.

What next, top dress with peat? Add humic acids? Vinegar? Miracid?
 
Mikell

Mikell

Dipshit Know-Nothing
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Agree with exploziv. Nutrient deficiencies and burn point to pH, as you have confirmed. How and with what are you currently adjusting pH of nutrient solution? Maybe I missed it, but what exactly is the medium?

Should have used 8x11 lined. We all make mistakes.
 
Dankwolf

Dankwolf

Active member
I have never had to lower ph of my soil/soiless ever but a quick search on icmag pointed to citric acid for a quick fix .
 
Peregrin Took

Peregrin Took

Active member
Medium is soil. Testing solution with pH strips. To lower pH of the solution I just add 1 FL.oz. of cheap beer per gallon of water..remembered this trick from an experiment back in college...perhaps something more substantial is needed.
 
Peregrin Took

Peregrin Took

Active member
I don't want to say.

I'll make it sound good. Store bought soil which I amended with perlite and an organic mixture of feather meal, blood and bone meal, sulfate of potash, calcitic lime, and compost.

Reality: Kellogg's patio plus, mixed 1:1 with perlite, then added ecoscraps organic tomato & veg mix (ingredients listed above, INCLUDING calcitic lime).

I figured I had all my major and micros covered, plus pH buffered, with great drainage, I should be cooking with fire.

Unfortunately I missed the detail of the Kellogg's soil containing dolomite lime as well. I think this is most likely the cause of my high pH issues.
 
Dankwolf

Dankwolf

Active member
Dolomite Lime should just bring you to 7 neutral to best of my knowledge . i wish i could help more but i am sure some one will step in and help now that the soil recipe used is posted up.
 
Levitationofme

Levitationofme

Well-known member
To add to the collection of advice:

Here is a solution that was givin to me by the company who makes my Nutrient line. I too have had issues :yoinks:

Flush with a very mild nutrient solution. 3x the volume of the soil. In the case of what products I use, the "Flush" is derived from Liquid Bone Meal called Herculean Harvest.
0-6-0. At a tablespoon per gallon and Aphrodite's Extraction which is simply broken down sugars ready for use by the microbes, also at 1 tbsp per gallon.

After that I waited for the soil to dry enough to feed.

You could also get a liquid Lime and use that for bringing up the ph. I use that to raise the PH of my mix. There is plenty of particulate left to buffer soil over a few days.



That's the info I used to correct a similar problem.
 
PoweredByLove

PoweredByLove

Most Loved
High ph makes nitrogen more available. If your ph being too high was the issue you wouldn't be seeing all these yellow leaves. If you were over feeding your leaves would be all twisted up and distorted. Instead you have yellow leaves with spotting, slow to nonexistent growth and stems purplish closest to soil. As plants get bigger they need more food. Full strength feeding of what nutes, and what are actual measures of what you're feeding?
 
who dat is

who dat is

Cave Dweller
Veteran
I was also going to suggest throwing away the chems and jumping on the organics bandwagon, especially since you are in dirt. Feed the soil, let the dirt do the work :yes:
 
Peregrin Took

Peregrin Took

Active member
PoweredByLove - I think it is very possible that they are a little underfed, but only slightly. My thinking is that the yellowing is being caused by micronutrients being locked out. If it were just a deficiency of nitrogen, I would see yellowing beginning at the at the lower/older growth, as opposed to it starting at the newer and middle growth. I agree with you that it doesn't look like overfertilization.

Dankwolf & who dat - I totally agree, organic is so much less hassle. In the past I have always gone with primarily organic nutrient sources, the only reason I have been throwing in some chemicals on this one was because of how close to flowering I am, I just wanted to give em a quick hit of nitrogen to green em up nice before I flip the lights and start transitioning to bloom feedings.
 
Peregrin Took

Peregrin Took

Active member
Sidebar: It drives me nuts when researching an issue on the forums and finding dozens of threads discussing a problem but then the thread will just die before reaching a clear resolution.

Update: The plants were top dressed with DownToEarth Bio-Fish 7-7-2 at the 1/2 the recommended amount. For their regular watering they got a full dose of Alaska 0-10-10. The phosphorus in this product is derived from phosphoric acid, which is what is sold as pH down.

I did a slurry test the next day after watering. Equal parts of soil and 7.5 pH tap water, came out to 7.8.
Now I also did a a slurry of equal parts soil and their nutrient water (one tablespoon Alaskan in one gallon tap water) and this slurry came out to a sexy 6.4.
Now I wonder which is more accurate, the test with plain tap water, or with the actual solution that is in the soil?

Either way, the plants are looking happier. Everyone is a little over two feet tall from the soil, 36" overall height with the pot, with 10-18 tops per plant.

A quick picture of the gals tonight. I'll update soon with pictures of either recovery or progression of the damaged leaves.

 
Peregrin Took

Peregrin Took

Active member
I took some more pictures of the upper leaves of the canopy last night. The only symptom that these newer leaves had displayed was a very slight paleness / yellowing, which appears to be corrected (not sure if it was raising the light that helped this or feeding and correcting the pH, probably both to some extent)

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PoweredByLove

PoweredByLove

Most Loved
Peregrin Took said:
I took some more pictures of the upper leaves of the canopy last night. The only symptom that these newer leaves had displayed was a very slight paleness / yellowing, which appears to be corrected (not sure if it was raising the light that helped this or feeding and correcting the pH, probably both to some extent)




Click to expand...

once you started feeding them they started growing again. the new growth that is pale green will turn green as the plant stabilizes. don't worry about it. new growth = good signs that you are going in the right direction.
 
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