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My grow/breeding project (planning stages)

KappaRoss

Member
Hi there community,

the last couple of weeks I spent lurking and soaking up anything I could find to get me back up to speed.

WARNING
Wall of text ahead... I don't have pictures I can use to soften the blow and I have been told before I am not exactly "concise" with words xD Hope it's still an interesting read for you and I can fill some of you with enthusiasm for my project

This was my first thread on ICmag. I started with strains/genetics/seeds because I can probably acquire them ahead of time/keep an eye out on deals etc.
As you can see I got quite far with my strain questions already but am not 100% set, so feel free to chime in there, if you like.


Now to the project at hand:

GOAL
- Providing me and the missus with exceptional herb for personal use. I want to dab in breeding and try my own crosses along the way. Which means mothers/clones, males and seed production. So I am looking at a perpetual setup.
- Less is more !! --> 150 grams would easily last us a year. So high yields are not required. Sure they aren't bad, especially for my breeding aspirations but they are an afterthought. Quality over quantity is what I am aiming for.

Genetics in mind/strain goal
- As mentioned in the "intro", see my first thread on icmag here for details
- Summarized, I'm looking for a strain with the following characteristics:
  • Unmistakably sweet/fruity/bubblegum taste/flavor/smell/aroma
  • Sativa heavy effect (euphoria, creativity, active, clear, cerebral, serene, "up")
  • Coloration, be it purple, blue, orange, reddish or just basically white from the resin (green won't kill me but ultimately I would like color as a bonus effect)
- Current frontrunner is peakseedsBC with a great offer on Blueberry, Sweet Skunk and C99 seeds. From there I would look for a strain with great bubblegum genetics and ultimately for (relatively) pure sativas with sweet/fruity, the type of effect I mentioned and possibly coloration.


Which room though? (here come the questions)

So I recently came into owning a house which is basically why the whole topic came up again in my mind. I will have space gallore. Currently I am looking into 3 rooms in the house and would ask your help to decide which one to use!

Room 1
- 250cm(length)*250(w)*220(h) Own water and electricity supply. 2 small windows, 1 facing the courtyard (which is seperated from the street by a >2 meter high solid metal gate (can't see through). The other one facing a small area where I store firewood.
- Big Plus The room has a toilet and faucet/sink installed so water would also be available. Temperature wise it should be fine but it might get hot in the summer since there is no room above it.
- Big minus The biggest disadvantage (imho) would be that it is right next to the entrance of the house. If the carbon filter ever malfunctions, anybody entering the house would know whats up immediately. The room does however not face, nor have windows to any public property. Just the house entrance is right next to the door of Room 1 :-/

Room 2
- Da basement :D My favorite so far. Both water and additional electricity would be easily made available. The room is about 350 cm long, about 300 cm wide and has a height of about 210 cm in the middle. However, it declines towards the side walls, where the height goes as low as 170 cm! There is an about 200 cm wide (and 350 cm long..) area in the middle where the height remains 200-210 cm.
- Big plus It's a basement... There is space, there is cool and controllable temperatures, ventilation and exhaust is easy, water and additional electricity circuits can be brought over from the adjacent rooms. I'm sitting at the "source" for water and electricity, so to speak. Another plus is that I could create a secret room here. There is only 1 window in the room (see "Big minus"..) which could be walled shut and then I could make the room "disappear" to anyone who doesn't have exceptional depth perception and knowledge on how houses and basements are generally constructed (and even then, the wall would seem "odd", not "wrong" or misplaced or sth.).
- Big minus It's a basement... And I was told that it is a little bit humid. So a dehumidifier might become necessary in the long run... There is one Window that would probably have to be walled off as it faces the street on foot-level. Can't really look down there from the street but noise/odour could escape, you never know... Also it makes the "secret room" idea moot, if I don't remove/wall off that window.


Room 3
- It's z attic! Unfortunately, I can't give measurements etc. as I haven't seen it yet. I just know there is one and it's supposedly very large (possibly bigger than Room 2).
- Big plus I can immediately (just from the position of the room in the house) see some advantages... I would have my home office right below the growroom (and nobody goes into my home office xD). Ventilation/exhaust should be even easier than Rooms 1&2. Controlling temperature might be tougher in winter/summer although I live in a very mild area (rarely very hot in the summer, nor very cold in the winter) but it's an attic ...
- Big minus It's an attic... I already mentioned temperature/isolation concerns. Furthermore I would have to move all equipment up the attic and either carry the water manually up there or lay both electricity and water lines up to the attic (not even sure if that is feasible atm, have to check it).



I am leaning towards the basement, walling off the window to the street, cutting it off from the rest of the basement with a dry wall and build a hidden entrance. My main concern at the moment are the window to the street and the decline in height towards the sides of the room...

What do you guys think?


Basic growroom setup in mind
With my stated goal in mind I would think that I need to seperate the growroom into several areas. Currently, I am leaning towards grow tents to do that job but might still come around to building my own wooden frames and seperating the room by hand... Tents seem to be worth the price though, for saving so much hustle and making it possible to take down the growroom much faster (in case I move out or something...)

Flowering tent:
The heart and soul of every operation. Currently thinking Homebox Evolution Par+ or a Secret Jardin DR II 120 (I was thinking to cough up another 30-40 bucks for the Homebox Evolution as I am not high on mylar at all and see the value of better foil in the flowerbox).

Either one would be 120cm(l)*120cm(w)*200cm(h). I am planning to run a 600W HPS in there with the appropriate fan and carbon filter (haven't calculated everything yet as I am not set on sizes but I'm quite set on the 600W HPS as I previously grew with 400W and found it lacking/was convinced there was more and better buds in my plants and felt the light being a major limitation. 1000W is still on the table but I don't think it makes sense for the scale I am looking for).

Veg tent:
I was planning to get a cheaper version tent for this. The best price/value I believe to have found so far in Europe were Secret Jardin again. The Dark Street or Hydro Shoot lines have relatively inexpensive tents. Here are a few candidates:
  • DS 90 (90*90*170)
  • DS 120 (120*120*185)
  • Hydroshoot (80*80*160)

All relatively inexpensive (70-110 bucks).
Their purpose would be to be my veg tent along with mother and cloning area (was planning to use a rack system on one side for clones in various stages and on the other side have the mothers/vegging plants on the floor).
I would use inexpensive fluorescent light tubes (you call them T5s or T8s or sth?) for the veg/mother/clone tent. Don't think I have use/need for MH as I won't have pressure to veg the plants fast.
Was currently not planning on having a dedicated fan/filter system for this tent. Either run it without or passively integrate it into the flower tent's air circulation.

With the combo option in mind (veg/mother/clone in one tent) I am leaning towards the DS 120 as it seems the most inexpensive tent with a 1.4m² grow area and a height below 200cm, which would be necessary in the basement.

Alternatively I could take a 60*60 or 80*80 tent with less than 200cm height and use it for veg and mother keeping, outsourcing the clones to a smaller DIY box or for example a Secret Jardin propagator (90*60*90) or their small "cristal" tent. Both those "clone tent" options would run me below 60 bucks (the small cristal tent I could get for 35 ...).

What do you guys think? I was planning to flower 4-6 females in 20l (5 gallon) smart pots (or possibly 25-30 liter) at a time in the main tent.
Does the veg tent provide the right size for that?
I know that usually veg chambers are kept smaller than flowering chambers but with breeding in mind, keeping mums and dads, I think I will have to keep quite many clones in circulation and wanna keep the bonzai mums and dads long term as well... So I am thinking a 120*120 veg tent is necessary. Height doesn't really matter much in the veg tent though.


BUT WHAT ABOUT THE HOMIES DAWG ?!?!?

Which brings us to the topic on which I probably have the most questions...
There is so much info on the breeding of sensimilla but so little info on breeding males...

The selection process for males still puzzles me. I will continue to read resources on this topic but it is my current understanding that while selecting males I will be bound to stem-rubbing and watching for great growth patterns etc. etc. while only being able to know which male is a keeper, once I already produced seeds from its pollen and grew the next generation from seed including harvest and tasting... Shieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet

In terms of keeping males, I assume I just keep taking clones from them and keep the clones in the cycle (destroy older, "vegged" clones, once fresher ones are available, until I was able to determin which males are the ones I want to keep long-term. At that point I guess I could LST a bonzai dad to keep with my bonzai mums in the veg tent...).

Pollen, seeds
I have never gone through this process before and am a little insecure about some stuff...
I was planning to send the males into flowering/pollen production using Daddy Isolation Chamber Kits (which is just JLP's male isolation chamber with a way better name - patent pending) in the main flower tent where I also flower my ladies.
Pollen would be collected outside the flowering tent, possibly even in another room/in the courtyard outside the house.

Question:
If I pull out a lady out of the flowering tent and use a brush/Qtip to pollenate its buds one by one and by hand. Wait a little while for everything to settle and put the mothers back into the flowering room after a few hours, would the ventilation/air circulation cause other females to get pollenated as well? Is such "secondary" pollenation negligible (as in I will find the odd seed here or there on other females) or considerable (I can expect most of the females to produce considerable amounts of seeds and weaker buds)?

Next, more important question:
I read about grafting and I think it is retarded and abnormal. Sure with "number of plant" limitations, it can be regarded as genius. But I also found out by now that my innitial suspicion was justified: there is a good chance DNA gets mixed up. I wasn't surprised that grafting is apparently common practice in dutch coffeeshops. That would certainly explain the decline of quality of their products over the last 10 years and that more and more strains were tasting/feeling "generic" no matter how many "Diesels" or "Jacks" or "Hazes" you slapped on to them...

Anyway, grafting is a no-go for me and I would be happy to debate anyone on its possible (imho highly likely) negative effects, even with my limited knowledge and experience :p


Buuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuut
What about pollenating 1 Bud of a female with the pollen from one dad and another Bud with the pollen of another dad?
As far as I know this is also possible and quite often practiced (I read something about paper bags being used to prevent pollen from one bud mixing with pollen from the next bud over, for 48 hours until pollen is no longer viable, the bags letting through enough light to not have too much of a negative effect on the plant/seed production and the pollen losing viability to accidentally pollenating other buds/plants after ~48 hours --> bags removed, produce several crosses on one female - am I missing/misunderstanding anything here?).

Now this seems more interesting to me ...
Being able to pollenate one female plant with the pollen from several males would considerably speed up my breeding efforts!
It also would give rise to the idea of a third (or 4th if outsourcing clones from veg tent) grow tent just for seed-making. I could also use this tent for drying in between seed production cycles...

I assume I couldn't flower 4-5 males in the same tent at the same time though? I would imagine that from air circulation alone their pollen would mix and I would have no idea what seeds I am actually making in the end. Or am I missing something?

I think D.I.C.K.'s are the way to go for the males... I would just make 2-4 of them so I could make sure I have a variety of pollen available, once I found a keeper mum, until I found the right keeper dad...

The rest of the setup would be a dedicated freezer (for freeze curing of buds, long term storage of buds and long term storage of seeds), all mah nutes n tools etc. .
Oh and a drybox/tent if I don't get that 3rd (or 4th..) tent for males and/or seed making... But I guess I could make the drybox easily myself from available furniture and some computer fans I got around the house...
Then a table, chair and green light, few this and that and I am all set I suppose...


Ah, almost forgot, the medium I was planning to use is Plagron promix as I got a decent deal of 10 bucks per 50 liters. Was going to buy about 5 bags and be set for the next year or so.


I hope I am not too all over the place and look forward to all your ideas, opinions, suggestions, criticism, etc.

ICmag has been a wealth of information so far :D

And please don't misunderstand: I don't want to be spoonfed my answers. But the topic is far and wide and I am sure I will have missed/misunderstood something along the way and that's what a community is for, no? :D

Happy little trees my friends!

KappaRoss
 

KappaRoss

Member
Forgot to mention:

I still have a 400W HPS, the fitting ballast and an oversized fan and carbon filter in my basement.

They were new when I stopped growing and had only been used for 1 run, so they have close to no mileage on them.

Problem is, they have been in my basement for the last ~10 years (probably more like 11, don't exactly remember).


I assume all of that equipment is useless now?

Well the fan I guess I could still use (along with the dimmer and hygrometer if I find them lol)... But the HPS, ballast and carbon filter?

Maybe use the carbon filter for the drybox/tent?
 

KappaRoss

Member
Guess going with a "mega-thread" was not the right idea...

Oh well, at least I have the rough outline of my project written down and can use it as a source for myself xD

Would love a simple "you completely forgot about this you moron" or "this is completely wrong/you made a thinking error here" or even a "looks all good, you seem on the right track".

Writing everything down helps me keep an overview and you guys giving a quick nod or headshake would help me identify any holes in my planning, if there are any (probably yes...)

By the by, I read a bit more about grafting and it seems not as horrible as I thought. Mixing of DNA taking much longer than I thought and not being that consequential. I deduced that from my own families experience with grafting fruit trees and them being all like "dude, that's so yesterday's use, people been doing that with vegetables/fruits since forever"...

So I guess I over-reacted a bit on the grafting, just seems fucked up to me xD



I also visited the attic. It's too small for growing. It is long but the height, even in the middle, is not more than 160 cm. On the sides the height declines too rapidly, there is just no space in height. Could use it for drying though. May nod need a carbon filter for the drying process then. Just a dark box with ventilation in the attic, smell would not be a concern (I can vent the attic into the court-yard side of the building so modifications to the exhaust-window would not be visible from anywhere).


Cheers people and best wishes
 

Phaeton

Speed of Dark
Veteran
I have been running a perpetual since 1999. During its peak the bud room was producing two pounds per month with 5000 watts of light in a ten by ten (3 m X 3 m) room and five plants.

Running a perpetual with less than four stations is difficult. Clone/seedling under six inches (15 cm) need their own low red lighting. Between 75 and 120 umol if a PAR (400 nm to 700 nm wavelengths) meter is available.
Early veg needs light about half that used in the bud room. 300 to 400 umol.
Final veg readies the plant for the bud room and should run the same light levels. 700 to 900 umol for LED, 950 to 1100 with HID, and 1300 to 1500 umol with HPS.
Budding the plant takes the same levels as veg. If spectrum control is available less blue slows upward growth and allows more energy to the buds.

The plants will grow and harvest fine smoking buds without my anal attention to detail, but having specialized rooms reduces the workload as the lights and temperatures are always correct and continual adjustments are not needed.

Attics are difficult to cool, basements are naturally cool. Easy decision there.

I have found it takes about five harvests to dial in a new strain, I am sure that could be reduced to three by someone with more skill, but growing multiple strains in the same tent causes extreme difficulty when attempting trying to dial in plants with different requirements.

An example is the sativa currently growing with 400 uw (micro watts) of UVB at the lower leaves and 250 at the top bud. This is enough to cause sunburn but the plants responds to this level with vigor.
I placed new strain in the bud room next to the sativa, cloned from an untried indica donated to my garden.
The UVB killed it in three days. The second clone now has its own area with greatly reduced UVB and the dialing in process has begun.

Currently the four areas have a yield of a single pound per month with 3600 watts in the bud room and three plants in rotation.
3600 watts is giving half the yield as 5000 watts, larger is more efficient per watt.

It was harvest time here this week, I spend a full week harvesting a plant due to arthritis. I do oil extracts to control the arthritis.
I spend less time at the computer during harvest.
 

amanda88

Well-known member
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This will save you from typers cramp
 

KappaRoss

Member
Thanks Phaeton,

I was planning to grow 20-30 seeds by one strain until I found a satisfactory keeper (male and female), cull that strain from my growroom (safe for the keepers) and then do the same for the next strain.

Multiple strains in the same "run" wouldn't be until much later, if at all and I would already have a pretty good idea as to what could grow together and what couldn't, in that particular setup, by that time.

So I don't see an issue there.


I wasn't aware a 4 room setup is necessary. I was under the impression that 2 rooms is possible and does fine....

To be honest, I left light with the impression "HPS (red) for bloom, Fluorescents or CFIs for veg(blue)" and done....
I knew there was much, much more to it but I thought that is the base line and enough to make the other decisions (how many, what size chambers, etc.). Guess I gotta read up on that next. Thanks for the pointer!



Maybe we can kill 2 birds with one stone here, I was asking this in another thread as well:
Would you, in your experience, say that the fine-tuning of your setup (specifically the different light spectrums during the various stages and not just "blue" for veg and "red" for bloom) helps overall bud quality? Or only yield?

Because I am not overly concerned with yield and was generally wondering if longer vegetative phases (under better/fine tuned conditions, such as yours, with various light spectrums during various growth stages and then HPS for bloom) also results in better quality and not "only" higher yield per plant.


If it turns out (which sounds reasonably possible to me) that overall quality is also heavily affected by proper and enough/long vegetative phase, then I would certainly be up for rethinking the basic setup and going for 4+ chambers (haven't tackled the whole male/pollenation/seed producing thing yet and if a seperate chamber for this would be useful, my assumption is yes).


Welp, I am grateful for your feedback and sharing your considerable experience with perpetual setups!

I am off to freshen up on lighting (long overdue it seems, also have no info on LEDs yet) and air circulation/ventilation/filtration/climate control.
Then I will try to find more info on pollenation/seed making in general to see if I find my answers in that department.

Cheers!
 

Phaeton

Speed of Dark
Veteran
The four rooms are not necessary, they just simplify things over the long term.

I am considered a gourmet grower at .37 grams per watt.
There is more than one correct way to grow plants, I use methods that blend with my hermit lifestyle.
I generally change one item every grow cycle, if it helps I use it again, if it hurts I stop. This cycle I put in a 10:1 red blue ratio LED over the indica. This much red did not help the sativa. Last cycle was higher levels of UV. I tried to correct fraying leaves with some 100% green T5 last spring.
Far Red supplements are on the second harvest with 13.5/10.5 lighting during the bud cycle. The first harvest came in almost 5% heavier and smoked smoother. Another four harvests to tune it up.

Tracking results and accurate repeats keep it current. How this is done and what direction it takes is up to the gardener. No two of us are going to do the same things.
 

KappaRoss

Member
Thanks Phaeton!

I guess "gourmet grower" is a good, short way to describe what I want to achieve.

Like you, I am not concerned with g/W.

I can always gear the setup towards higher yields/production, once I found what I am looking for.


I continued to do some research and already continued to look into growshops to start looking for deals on equipment.



I still look towards a 3 tent setup to start with. I will however leave space in the grow room for an additional 4th or 5th chamber in the future.

At the start I will grow for example 20-40 seeds of one strain. I will probably start with 20 and see if the space I offer the plants is enough. Maybe my second run I can then pop 30 or 40 seeds.
I will use a 120x120x180 tent. This tent will be the veg chamber where I will keep clones on a rack with their own lighting and mothers and vegging clones in pots on the floor.

Culling will begin at the seedling stage: Weak and sickly seedlings will be discarded here already.

The remaining plants will be cloned once mature enough. Once they root, they will be sent into the flowering tent (120x120x200) under 600W HPS. I will try to fit as many of the clones in there as I can without inhibiting their ability to absorb light.
Males would be mostly culled but 1 or 2 I would flower to finish using D.I.C.K.s. I would simply select the males that have had the best growth characteristics etc. (I can both watch how the flowering males behave in the D.I.C.K.s and how their clones behave in the veg tent).

In the meantime, the mothers and clones will continue their life in the veg tent. During the flowering, the original seedplants might become too large or unwieldy and I may have to start to low-stress-train and supercrop them. Ultimately I want to end up with some bonsai mums and dads solely for cloneing purposes of my favourite strains and phenos within those strains.


Come to think of it... maybe it would be a better idea to send the seedplants into flower to determine which ones are the keepers... The clones of these seedplants would be grown into the actual long-term keepers (mother/fatherplants) during that first flowering phase... Hmmm, not sure...

Anyway, once the flowering is complete, I would harvest the plants and move them to tent number 3 (something like 60x60x160). This would be the "dry cab" for now. Here I would dry for 4-10 days and then into the freezer they go.

In the meantime I would have popped the next 20 or so seeds and grown them to maturity/the ability to take clones. Clone them, either let the clones root and send into flower or flower the new seedplants and keep clones for eventual mums/dads.

By the time the harvest has been freeze-cured and tested, the "second strain" would already be in flower.

Once thuroughly tested, all clones would be culled, safe for a few keepers (male and female) of strain #1. Low-stress-training/"bonzification" of these keepers would commence (with some clones of each as a backup if I fuck anything up, will be my first time LST/supercropping).

Then repeat the process for strains #2 and #3 and continue.


Once I have everything dialed in and my keepers (male and female) selected from my first 3 strains, I would either continue with a few more varieties or start the crossbreeding and seed production.


My research has shown me that individual branches of a flowering female can be pollinated with pollen from various males.
I will do further research into this but from my understanding genetic mixup won't occur and you will end up with Branch 1 from Female A being pollinated by Male A and thus result in AA seeds. While branch 2 from Female A would be polinated with Male B and you would end up with AB seeds on that branch etc. etc.

If this holds true, this will be my method of pollination.

It furthermore seems that, if done properly, this way of "hand pollination" of individual budding sites, will result in there not being excess pollen and all the pollen applied sticking to the female buds.
The guy who's video I watched (from dank genetics or sth) said that if done properly and just so, you can put the pollinated plant back into the same room with your other flowering females and do not have to worry about any potential secondary pollination because the pollen will simply stick to the budding sights and not become airborn any more. Of course you have to make sure that no pollen fell on any leaves or something, while you hand-pollinated...

If this also holds true, I won't even need a second flowering tent for seed production....


Then I would "only" go with a 4th chamber, eventually, to give a smoother transition from veg to flower, as suggested by Phateon.
Makes sense to me to give vegging plants a "pre-flowering vegetative phase" with adjusted lights/conditions to prepare them for flowering.
It seems logical to me that this will positively influence overall growth and production (albeit apparently not quality/potency of the bud).

A 5th chamber would then only be required if I need a secondary flowering tent for seed-making, if the hand-pollination stuff doesn't work out as described (or I can't get construction of my D.I.C.K.s right...).


Welp, I am quite happy with the setup I have in mind and think it will serve my purpose well in the beginning and leave room for additional improvement/fine-tuning in the future...


My main concern is if the tent-size for veg and flower are sensible/feasible for the amount of plants and the cycle I have in mind....

Would be glad if anyone would like to chime in on that :)
 

KappaRoss

Member
A little update on the basic setup:

I will take the basement secret room.
It will consist of actually 5 chambers from the start (got a great deal on a small tent) split up as follows:

- 120x120x200 Blooming tent with 600W HPS
- 120x120x185 Vegetative tent with Fluorescent or CFL lights
- 40x40x80 Clonebox/Propagator (2 racks with Fluorescents)
- 40x40x80 Drybox
- 40x40x80 Utility tent (pre-bloom, males, seed-making)

The room will furthermore include:

- A dedicated Fridge/Freezer combo for dry-curing, long- and short-term preservation of seeds, nutes, etc.
- A working table/area
- Green work light

The room will be secured with an electronic numbers lock and hidden behind something (the lock also obviously hidden).
In front of the room will also be a wardrobe, including (among normal stuff), a lab-coat/overcoat (kept clean and stored in its own airtight container), those thingies to put over your shoes in the hospital. And mah safety goggles, as I just heard about HPS light fuckin your eyes somewhat fierce...

In terms of ventilation/air management:

- The two 4x4 (120x120) rooms will be joined together in the airflow with one inline fan and filter sucking the air out of both tents. Still have to read up on how I calculate the proper size. I roughly estimate 700-1000m³
- The 40x40x80 dryboxwill get its own filter and fan. I will use the old ones in my basement, which only ran once but more than 10 years ago. So not sure how good/reliable that equipment is but the filter/fan combo is around 400m³ so it should deal with such a small tent even if it's that old...

- The clonebox doesn't need a filter/fan combo of that size, I will probably work with PC fans here

- The utility tent depends on what it is used for... If I want to make seeds in there seperated from my bloombox or use it for pre-bloom, then I would connect it to the air flow of the drybox and hope my old filter/fan can handle that (might buy a replacement beforehand as backup... at least for the filter...). If I run it for male flowering/pollen production, then I would give it its own filter/fan supply and make sure to double proof everything with pollen-filters.


I am currently trying to fit pot-size to my setup...
Seeds and Clones will start in jiffy cups. Once rooted, transplanted to 1 gallon smart pots.

I read elsewhere on ICmag a consensus suggestion to run 16 3 gallon pots under 600W in a 4x4 (120x120x200) tent.
Veg till about 12'' (~30cm) and flip to 12/12.
I assume this would result in 60-80 cm plants toward the end of flowering. Adding 20 cm for the smart pot, that would give a maximum height of 100cm on average. Adding the 60 cm of distance for the lamp (I might get cooltubes still so this might become 20cm), I have a cool minimum of 40 (w/cooltube 80)cm to work with.

I will keep 4 7 gallon smart pots on stand by. This would be my alternate flowering method if I want to run long vegged/big plants.



The whole terpene thing I put on the back-burner for now. It is very, very interesting but it doesn't seem like there is a "Strain-terpene-Database", so it is of little use atm... Only Green House Seeds seem to have published terpene profiles of their own strains. I haven't found any independent database/place where you can check out the terpene profile of the various strains. I will look a bit more on leaf li and see if there is info there...
 

KappaRoss

Member
Currently thinking about making the utility tent a bit larger (maybe sth like 60x60x160)...

My thinking being that I can probably use it as a tent for males or seed-making at 40x40x80 but if I want to use it for pre-bloom vegetation to prepare plants for flowering (as Phaeton suggested), then 40x40x80 is probably too small. 60x60x160 might still be small (simply in terms of m² --> number of plants I can put in there for pre-flower is very limited... Probably cannot put 16 3 gallon pots in there ...)....

Maybe I should instead use the veg-tent @ 120x120x180 for "pre-bloom" and get a 60x60x160 tent for early veg and mother plants? 16 plants in 1 gallon pots would probably fit in there...
Just not sure if there would also be enough space there for the mothers and fathers in veg once I have about 10 of those ...

Probably not ...
A third 120x120 tent is something I wanted to avoid or it will get very crammed in that room ...

A third 120x120 tent would cost me about 100 bucks more as well...

Decisions, decisions... I probably will keep the tent-setup as mentioned before (2 120x120 tents and 3 40x40x80 tents).

After a few harvests, if the room allows it and I put more value on yield, I might just buy a third 120x120 tent for pre-bloom.

Good thing about those 40x40x80 tents is that I can also stack them on top of each other in the room, to create more space.
 

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