Multible Problems--

[christy]

I am having probs with yellowing leafs, and spotting-- I am in trhe ground, but we also have an issue with salt--]
How do I deal with high salt in my grow medium--

 

[Scrogerman]

Flush/leach with a clearing solution? some pics may help man, what makes you think its Salt?

Alot of Tap water would prolly do the trick, i believe high calcium tap will help shift it. How big of an area are you talking? how many girls?

It depends what you mean really(salt type): Remember Google is your buddy: http://www.thebestgardening.com/2011/04/15/salty-or-sodic-soils/. A bloody good leaching if its just overfert issues, should be sufficient! if you have Sodic soil, thats another issue.

 

[Stress_test]

High Christy and welcome to ICMag.

Now as for your plants...
Without pictures it's really like throwing darts in the dark. But since we already know that your soil is salty it does kinda narrow the field a tad bit.

First I have to ask how old your plants are?
How long have they been in the ground? And what size pots were they in before going into the ground.
Also do you Ph your water before watering?

If the native soil is too salty for mj then your only real option is too dig a huge hole and fill it with your own soil mix. But it needs to be a good sized hole, like 3 or 4 feet cube, in order to accommodate the root system.

If the plants aren't too big and haven't been in the soil too long you can probably dig em up and pot em while you correct the lock out problem and enlarge the hole.

 

[kmk420kali]

Hey everyone, thanks for the replies--
Christy is a very good friend of mine, and I wrote this for her last night--
Here is the dilemma....there are about a hundred plants, 2-3 feet tall, 3rd week of flower...all are established in the ground, inside greenhouse-- They are in 2-3 foot deep holes, about a foot and a half wide, that were amended with potting soil--
It is in the desert, and when you get down past the sand, it is heavy with clay--
There are too many, and they are way too established to dig up at this point--
It appears that there are multiple probs going on, actually, it is looking like a lockout of everything--
They are not showing devastating damage yet, but are just beginning to show yellowing leaves, with some spotting and blotching...looking like deficiency of N, P, and K--
We are hoping that there is something she can do, just to get them to harvest--
Thanks in advance--

 

[Stress_test]

Okay that clarifies things.

Ummmmm... I think if it were myself?
I would if possible try and dig out about 6" around the outsides of the holes dug for the plants and replace with fresh soil.
I would probably follow that with about 1 Tbls per gallon of Brer Rabbit molasses...And mixed separately: 1 Tbls per gallon of "Lilly Miller" Vit B1 plant starter.

When you water/feed: Mix them together with your normal nutes. Give the molasses to em every watering though and start a foliar feeding regiment.

The Vitamin B1 I would only give once or twice until closer to harvest. DON'T spray the plants with this! It is used to encourage root growth. Use it in the dirt only as it will practically dissolve the plants.

Both Molasses and vit B1 contain micro nutes that help resolve uptake issues and slow or prevent salts buildup. Both also contain "chaleted" minerals that will help the plants utilize the nutes that you feed, instead of letting them build up.

 

[kmk420kali]

Okay that clarifies things.

Ummmmm... I think if it were myself?
I would if possible try and dig out about 6" around the outsides of the holes dug for the plants and replace with fresh soil.
I would probably follow that with about 1 Tbls per gallon of Brer Rabbit molasses...And mixed separately: 1 Tbls per gallon of "Lilly Miller" Vit B1 plant starter.

When you water/feed: Mix them together with your normal nutes. Give the molasses to em every watering though and start a foliar feeding regiment.

The Vitamin B1 I would only give once or twice until closer to harvest. DON'T spray the plants with this! It is used to encourage root growth. Use it in the dirt only as it will practically dissolve the plants.

Both Molasses and vit B1 contain micro nutes that help resolve uptake issues and slow or prevent salts buildup. Both also contain "chaleted" minerals that will help the plants utilize the nutes that you feed, instead of letting them build up.

What would you think about Mad Farmer's NUTS??

Mad Farmer's N.U.T.S. stands for Nutrient Up-Take Solution.
Derived From: Humic Shale
Ingredient Explained: N.U.T.S. is an organic, cold water extracted fulvic acid derived from humic shale. Fulvic acid acts to naturally chelate nutrients. These properties result in higher nutrient uptake as well as increased vitality. N.U.T.S. is UV filtered before bottling to ensure quality.
*Chelation is the that process enables nutrients to move freely inside the plants.
Application: The Mad Farmer's N.U.T.S. should be applied as a foliar spray and/or used in conjunction with regular feeding schedule. N.U.T.S is compatible with all other nutrients and fertilizers. N.U.T.S. is 100% organic and can be used in any medium.

 

[Stress_test]

What would you think about Mad Farmer's NUTS??

Cool! Nice heads up!
I don't think I've ever heard of it. But I can assure you that I will be doing some research now.
My recipes is handed down to me from 2 different directions and has proven it self to me. However I'm always up for learning and improving.
I will have to see what all is in it and how it blends with other nutes commonly used, and then test it out myself before I recommend it to others though.
Thanks! and +K bud.

 

[kmk420kali]

http://www.thebestgardening.com/2011/04/15/salty-or-sodic-soils/. if you have Sodic soil, thats another issue.

I think this may be the situation-- It is desert, salty..and lots of clay down a foot or 2--

Sodic soils are a little bit of a different story. First off, I should point out that a sodic soil is also a salty soil but differs from other salty soils in that it is a specific group of salts that are causing all the problems. In this case, the salts containing the element sodium, usually sodium chloride or table salt. Sodium is unique from other elements because it has an interesting effect on clay in a soil. It sticks to clay molecules and then scatters them. Sodium scatters clays so well, in fact, that a clay-based soil that is also sodic is virtually water tight. The way to correct sodic soils is also by leaching with good drainage as with other salty soils, but before you begin the leaching process you have to add a soil lime and till it into the soil. This may seem counter-intuitive because limes typically carry the elements common to many different types of salts, so why would you add more salts to an already salty soil? The reason for adding a lime to a sodic soil before leaching with water is to displace the sodium stuck to clay surfaces by replacing it with other salts which will in turn also be leached away by and by. Sodium must first be displaced from the soil so it will be out in the open for water to wash away, otherwise it will stay stuck in between clay molecules. Adding sulfur also aids in displacing sodium. Sulfur turns to sulfuric acid in soils by bacterial action; the hydrogen ions from the resulting acid can also displace sodium from soil surfaces. When used together, lime and sulfur have the greatest potential to reclaim a sodic soil.