T
tazz11
hello
I have wanted to make this post for some time now and just have not had the time to spare .so here goes nothing ..
now a lot of growers don't stage their lighting and some do .. breeder almost always do ...
now starting with some 48 twins is great for germination and early seedlings , now we move on to the real staging..
the idea is the same for 400 watt or 600 watt or 1000 watt .now your best results come with a step up program .. where you start with a 400 then step up to 600 ,or 600 then step up to the 1000 for most growers this works well ...
now if you use a rail you have some more work to do ...
the idea is to start with a MH bulb and at the right time switch to the HPS of the same size ...now this makes the plants react to the timing as well as the difference between the MH and HPS bulbs ..
say I am in veg and I am getting ready to flower .. hold back don't change them before they have the switch over ...from MH to HPS . give them two weeks after the switch over ...now what your looking for is that switch over to help the plants change from veg to flowering , but note that the light timing is just as important as the change from 16/8 to 12 / 12 if that's the timing you use . in all fairness many stages of lighting and timing will work for different environments as well as skill levels and cost effectiveness .. so don't cry if you don't get it right the first time .. you learn how your environment reacts and use that to set your guide lines ..
now when your doing a straight on grow . your looking for a full nice veg and then that switch from MH to Hps before you change your timing to flower .. now you change your light from MH to HPS then you wait the two weeks ,this helps the plants stable out to the HPS before you turn them ..now they have started to show sex and you have had two weeks to remove your males and get the grow clean and ready to flower out ...the males are gone and the females have more room and better lighting and space around them to get the best use of your bigger 1000 watt .
now this is going to just kill you but put the MH 1000 in first ...your going to say that's making them go backwards .. some what yes and in many ways no .. the timing is in fact a wave effect that lets the start to veg at the higher 1000 watt ratio and then after two weeks you switch up to the HPS ...
think about how the plants will react to this .. you have the build up in veg then the sexing and a stage to define sex then you build up to the higher veg level and build plant mass ,that well be used by the plants to draw from when they feed the buds ...so even if you slow the forward growth , the veg you make will make your bud qualities and size better in the end results ..
so your plants are leveling out and growing as they make veg under the 1000 MH , now they are gender stable as much as they can be , now you want to change them and step up to the 1000 HPS ..by now you should have the full half pipe effect from your rail ...now what you want to do is move your tallest plants to the out side of the half pipe ..this will make two outer lines of tall plants and the smaller shorter plants fill in the center ,smallest on the end next to your fan and the tall of those on the other end away from the fan . this lets your fan blow fresh air up the half pipe and helps feed to as many plants as it can effectively ..
now there is a reason for this . the reason is the rail ..now a rail dose a few good things . one the light is moving and the light stays cooler then normal and it stops hot spots in the room ..it also lets the fan cool the light and as it moves threw the room ...as you know Co2 should only be used in light cycle .. setting your fan to a timer can control this and give you the best out of your Co2 as well as your lighting ..keep this in mind when your changing and stepping up in lighting stages ..
your Co2 should be on most in those stages .. many say Co2 is less effective in late flowering ...I have to agree ...but here in this system we have a in closed room and the Co2 is in the room till it is used by the plants ..
now we do cold temps and seldom look for plant mass , med weeds are more about quality then profits .. so you may need to change the system to fit your grow environment for your over all goal...
so if you get it to work correctly you should get the 1000 Hps to have around 3 weeks or more of flowering stage before your dark & flush cycles starts ,this may change some what with the strains you use ,the best way to get control of this system is run a few batches and see how your environment reacts ..
hint : most rails have a stop end timer .. where you can stop the movement of the light at the ends of the rail .. I run the rail till is see the plants in the center start to get taller then I move then to the far end ,and use that to set my end time ,on a 6 ft rail it should stop for a little less then a minute ..but for the over all growth rates of the mass moving the tall to the far end and the small close to the fan works the best for me ...now in the pics , these are 7 hybrids of the same base stock . I am not going into strain selection that's up to you ...
now your ready for my multi strain/ multi wave/multi gen breeders grow...?
just joking , don't freak out !
I am sorry I can not post here any more ...
I have wanted to make this post for some time now and just have not had the time to spare .so here goes nothing ..
now a lot of growers don't stage their lighting and some do .. breeder almost always do ...
now starting with some 48 twins is great for germination and early seedlings , now we move on to the real staging..
the idea is the same for 400 watt or 600 watt or 1000 watt .now your best results come with a step up program .. where you start with a 400 then step up to 600 ,or 600 then step up to the 1000 for most growers this works well ...
now if you use a rail you have some more work to do ...
the idea is to start with a MH bulb and at the right time switch to the HPS of the same size ...now this makes the plants react to the timing as well as the difference between the MH and HPS bulbs ..
say I am in veg and I am getting ready to flower .. hold back don't change them before they have the switch over ...from MH to HPS . give them two weeks after the switch over ...now what your looking for is that switch over to help the plants change from veg to flowering , but note that the light timing is just as important as the change from 16/8 to 12 / 12 if that's the timing you use . in all fairness many stages of lighting and timing will work for different environments as well as skill levels and cost effectiveness .. so don't cry if you don't get it right the first time .. you learn how your environment reacts and use that to set your guide lines ..
now when your doing a straight on grow . your looking for a full nice veg and then that switch from MH to Hps before you change your timing to flower .. now you change your light from MH to HPS then you wait the two weeks ,this helps the plants stable out to the HPS before you turn them ..now they have started to show sex and you have had two weeks to remove your males and get the grow clean and ready to flower out ...the males are gone and the females have more room and better lighting and space around them to get the best use of your bigger 1000 watt .
now this is going to just kill you but put the MH 1000 in first ...your going to say that's making them go backwards .. some what yes and in many ways no .. the timing is in fact a wave effect that lets the start to veg at the higher 1000 watt ratio and then after two weeks you switch up to the HPS ...
think about how the plants will react to this .. you have the build up in veg then the sexing and a stage to define sex then you build up to the higher veg level and build plant mass ,that well be used by the plants to draw from when they feed the buds ...so even if you slow the forward growth , the veg you make will make your bud qualities and size better in the end results ..
so your plants are leveling out and growing as they make veg under the 1000 MH , now they are gender stable as much as they can be , now you want to change them and step up to the 1000 HPS ..by now you should have the full half pipe effect from your rail ...now what you want to do is move your tallest plants to the out side of the half pipe ..this will make two outer lines of tall plants and the smaller shorter plants fill in the center ,smallest on the end next to your fan and the tall of those on the other end away from the fan . this lets your fan blow fresh air up the half pipe and helps feed to as many plants as it can effectively ..
now there is a reason for this . the reason is the rail ..now a rail dose a few good things . one the light is moving and the light stays cooler then normal and it stops hot spots in the room ..it also lets the fan cool the light and as it moves threw the room ...as you know Co2 should only be used in light cycle .. setting your fan to a timer can control this and give you the best out of your Co2 as well as your lighting ..keep this in mind when your changing and stepping up in lighting stages ..
your Co2 should be on most in those stages .. many say Co2 is less effective in late flowering ...I have to agree ...but here in this system we have a in closed room and the Co2 is in the room till it is used by the plants ..
now we do cold temps and seldom look for plant mass , med weeds are more about quality then profits .. so you may need to change the system to fit your grow environment for your over all goal...
so if you get it to work correctly you should get the 1000 Hps to have around 3 weeks or more of flowering stage before your dark & flush cycles starts ,this may change some what with the strains you use ,the best way to get control of this system is run a few batches and see how your environment reacts ..
hint : most rails have a stop end timer .. where you can stop the movement of the light at the ends of the rail .. I run the rail till is see the plants in the center start to get taller then I move then to the far end ,and use that to set my end time ,on a 6 ft rail it should stop for a little less then a minute ..but for the over all growth rates of the mass moving the tall to the far end and the small close to the fan works the best for me ...now in the pics , these are 7 hybrids of the same base stock . I am not going into strain selection that's up to you ...
now your ready for my multi strain/ multi wave/multi gen breeders grow...?
just joking , don't freak out !
I am sorry I can not post here any more ...
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