Multi-Flow Build - 3000w Dual Arc - 8x8 Room - Questions!

[guambomb813]

Okay so far I've built controller, got res, got buckets, hydroton, fans(x3), carbon filters, pumps(controller and res), a/c, all lines going to buckets from controller, still waiting for the dual arc 1000w bulbs, ballast, and refelector(x3) to arrive.

So couple q's,

I bought 2 Stanley centrifugal fans that i've already converted 1 of them as the fan for my carbon filter. The other one I would like to use as my light cooler.

1. What is the best way to cool 3 different 1000W Lights? I'm not sure how I would even attach air to the lights so all detailed instructions would be sweet. I do not have cool tube or anything like that I ordered just some sun-something reflectors.

2. This is the first time i've used mult-flow so I'm not exactly sure on how the pump for the res works, like how its hooked up? Do I need to just plug it in to the 2nd outlet in my controller box? Sorry if this is a newb question! I imagine thats what I do but not sure.

3. Another res question, do I only need to run 1 hose to the res, from the pump to the controller fill? Or is there more? ogreseekers controller is what I followed but I cant find a thorough tut on how to put together complete system so again all and any details are appreciated.

4. I'm looking to put c02 into my system, how can I build a proper/safe c02 gen? Should this be something that is just bought? If so what are the best/cheapest ones available? When should c02 be used and not be used?? Debate it on if you oppose c02 I wanna hear ur experiences though.

 

[morrisgreenberg]

those 1000 watters are heavy heat makers, i used to run 1k's mostly but no longer do this cus its easier to cool 600's, i found that a 450cfm fan would do the trick for just one, maybe 2, so if you used this type of fan for all 3 the glass will sizzle if you touched it, what works perfectly for this setup is a 1000cfm fan and up, you still may encounter heat problems.that is for air cooled hoods or cool tubes and you would want them blowing air rather than sucking out the hot, the fan will get very very hot and fail sooner rather than later. for the water controls just play with them if your not sure, you said you built the unit or purchased? i assume you have installed float swicthes to activate pumps, experiment. you need one line from rez to controller for you flood/fill and another pump in controller to pump /drain back to rez. co2 gennie's should be purchased, this is something you shouldnt build, they run on either propane or natural gas, also co2 tanks and regulator is an option, for some this is not good to go to a welding supply monthly to refill a tank and go in and out with one from your grow area, c02 is used durig lights on cycle of any photoperiod, veg and/or flower, if you can only do one, use during flower, google co2 calculator to find out how long the unit should be run for your room dimensions. i personally love the use of co2 for the explosive growth, some dont notice it bcus its not used properly,i like to run high temps with it as co2 is absorbed best by the plant in temps from 85F-95F...yes i know 95 is lethal but with co2 you can really see amazing growth, but i want to tell you, with your wattage and hydro it may become a serious problem that can shut your grow down, warm temps plus water in the rez dont mix, your first priority would be to keep your res water under 75F, at this temp root rot and other horrible bacteria thrive in your water system and will have you doubting whether growing is for you, i know i been thru hell and back, whats your ventilation and cooling plan? is it possible for you to have your res outside of the grow space and away from those hot lights? can you get a 12000 btu a/c in there>? like i said i run high temps for max use of the co2, i also use water chillers and have resivoir's outaside the space, IMO if i cant have atleast a proper a/c in there then hydro is a no go for me....btw this is my first icmag post, hello to everyone reading this

 

[guambomb813]

those 1000 watters are heavy heat makers, i used to run 1k's mostly but no longer do this cus its easier to cool 600's, i found that a 450cfm fan would do the trick for just one, maybe 2, so if you used this type of fan for all 3 the glass will sizzle if you touched it, what works perfectly for this setup is a 1000cfm fan and up, you still may encounter heat problems.that is for air cooled hoods or cool tubes and you would want them blowing air rather than sucking out the hot, the fan will get very very hot and fail sooner rather than later. for the water controls just play with them if your not sure, you said you built the unit or purchased? i assume you have installed float swicthes to activate pumps, experiment. you need one line from rez to controller for you flood/fill and another pump in controller to pump /drain back to rez. co2 gennie's should be purchased, this is something you shouldnt build, they run on either propane or natural gas, also co2 tanks and regulator is an option, for some this is not good to go to a welding supply monthly to refill a tank and go in and out with one from your grow area, c02 is used durig lights on cycle of any photoperiod, veg and/or flower, if you can only do one, use during flower, google co2 calculator to find out how long the unit should be run for your room dimensions. i personally love the use of co2 for the explosive growth, some dont notice it bcus its not used properly,i like to run high temps with it as co2 is absorbed best by the plant in temps from 85F-95F...yes i know 95 is lethal but with co2 you can really see amazing growth, but i want to tell you, with your wattage and hydro it may become a serious problem that can shut your grow down, warm temps plus water in the rez dont mix, your first priority would be to keep your res water under 75F, at this temp root rot and other horrible bacteria thrive in your water system and will have you doubting whether growing is for you, i know i been thru hell and back, whats your ventilation and cooling plan? is it possible for you to have your res outside of the grow space and away from those hot lights? can you get a 12000 btu a/c in there>? like i said i run high temps for max use of the co2, i also use water chillers and have resivoir's outaside the space, IMO if i cant have atleast a proper a/c in there then hydro is a no go for me....btw this is my first icmag post, hello to everyone reading this

Right on bro welcome to icmag! I just joined not too long ago.

Okay so what I did was took 8x10 Room and put up a wall to seperate the grow room from the "control" room, on the other half it also has the closet which is where I have the controller/rez. so this should help keep the heat away from the rez but thanks alot for the advice now I know what my temps should be in the water, if I have issues with it then Im going to have to find a way to cool my rez.

Yes I have room for the a/c, I was going to put it in grow room to keep control of the temps in there. This IS okay right?!

For the lights sorry I wasn't more specific, I got 3 sun systems cool sun reflectors which are air cooled, so with this I have (2) 480cfm fans that Im thinking about having them suck in the air near my a/c and both routed together to circulate through the reflectors. Would this be promising or would I be better off running them individually instead of having the heat blown from 1 reflector to the other and to the other??

 

[morrisgreenberg]

you can do it either way, what i suggest is you set it up the way you want and reconfigure if you need it, what i tried and re-did was i had a "y" duct connector and ran 2 fans from one intake, this is not good, HVAC guys say to have an individual intake per fan, larger the hole , more air movement. having the cool air being sucked into your ducting sounds promising, but watch out for condensation on your glass, also this may pose a problem is you are venting out of the room due to odor, i like to run my cooling independantly, i seal rooms for co2, but i used to run independant intake/exhaust when not useing co2, what this means is an extra set of intake and exhaust just for the lights, the 2 fans for 3 lights should work very well, but like i said i implore you to play around with it, whatever your set up is, let it run over night to see how high temps get, then try another style, as for the a/c unit, will you be able to put it in a window or put a hole in the wall?

 

[BigForest]

Im considering running 3 1000 air cooled sunsystem tempered glass too.But realy stump on how too cool them+room which is 10by15ft im thinking 1 12in vortex with 12*39in phat filtered straight out the room too cool but will that be efficient? with a 14k or 15k btu ac what if the lights are on movers? how would i go about that.Also i wanna add a cap envir co2 fuzzy logic controller with propane co2 gen1 or 2.i would realy love to go with 600wat but i have the 1000 laying around i know they produce alot of heat.hmmmmm dont know what to do

 

[morrisgreenberg]

you can cut out a light with the mover, but since i have no exp with movers i wouldnt know how it would effect your yield. another thing i didnt touch on iabout the co2 gennies is they produce heat- yet another obsticle. a good rule of thumb is atleast 3500btu of a/c per 1000watts of lighting. this should get you into the high 70's low 80's. forest, if you took your carbon filter pulled air through it into the hoods and out the room this will work fine, but the co2 will constantly be wasted due to the fan having to always be on, this method would still need a fresh air supply coming in. best way to have a perfectly sealed room is to have the lights enclosed with thier own fan, another fan for the carbon filter , so you have no need for intakes and room air and hood cooling air wont mix, although you will lose co2 from the carbon filter being on, you can just run it periodically and have your co2 control kick back on after an exhaust cycle, i prefer having the fan blowing a fresh air supply to the hoods as opposed to having the fan sucking, i cant stress enough how hot that fan will get, i just dont like mechanical things to get that hot. i use 6inch hoods and i regret not going with 8's, my thinking was more fans and i underestimated the value of a larger hole for air movement, also whatever ducting you do try to make it as straight as possible, no sharp turns, rigid ducting is best for this, the flexible ducts have a higher friction...i just thought of another way to do this, and its from a well known grower on another site, you may have heard of him, his name is subcool, popular breeder, hes an hvac guy and he runs large rigid ducting say 12inch providing fresh air stright through his grow on one side, connects ducts from this large duct to hoods, then connects hoods to another duct on other side of the room with a tremednous 10 or 12in fan, really high cfm like 5000, this cools a whole house op...i dont like to plug other sites and i dont know if it would be the appropriate thing to do on here, especially since im new to icmag

 

[guambomb813]

Thanks for the info morris you've schooled me a bit on vents and now i'm pretty comfortable putting this together other then a couple things still unsure of. Yeah I will be able to install the a/c in the wall so that's no issue but thanks for the btu rates and gotta keep eyes open for condensation!



1. Should I have the reflectors circulate the air between eachother or exhaust out the ceiling or somewhere other then the grow room??

2. What are the best methods of getting fresh air in the room without leaking any ganja scents to my neighbors!

 

[morrisgreenberg]

the benefit of the enclosed hoods is the ability to blow that air directly out the room, remember its not always about how cool the air that passes thru them, its about moving that hot air away, if you can put a hole in the cieling you should. as for bringing in fresh air, see the co2 solves a couple issues, first issue is the scent, if you leave the intake fan on you wont nhave to worry about that, but if you ran intake in cycles your gonna want a flapper there, so it closes when the fans not in use, you can get one of these at lowes or HD, not sure of the proper name for it, also your going to want to treat it in some way, maybe a fine mesh screening over the intake to keep out pests, this intake should be placed somewhere low in the room, so if you have your carbon filter running it should be up high and opposite the intake, to get a nice cross flow of air movment. another idea is with this flapper thing, no fan attatched to it, run the carbon filter and the negative pressure will open the flange and bang, drawing it fresh air whenever the odor control comes on, keep in mind the reason we need fresh air in the grow room is only for the tiny amount of c02 in this fresh air, should be around 300ppm, plants dont need fresh air, just the c02 that it bring with it....c02 tank and reg is about $300 at any hydro shop

 

[BigForest]

thanks for the info doggy