moving soil into geurilla site

[drobdude]

just wondering if theres any geurillas out there that have an inventive way to get soil to site.

gotta be an easier way

any one tried a zipline?

also seen this cool portable winch....capstan winch. would be perfect to pull stuff along a zip line.

also seen a cool winch you could mount to a tree....was a retro fitted boat winch to pull large game up hills.

 

[JointOperation]

lol.. winter drag shit in .. and hide.. and then in summer go do whatcha gotta do..

for little outdoor grows.. just walk it out a few bags at a time.. with big grows.. bring it out early.. a few seasons early so ur not leaving behind trails of matted plants and grass..

but how much soil u looking at honestly.. i bought a military backpack i can bring a bale on my back. or 2-3 bags of soil each run.

 

[HOVAH2.0]

There is no easy way to get soil to a guerilla site, just pure muscle and sweat.

Now you've got to rush and possibly overlook or forget the details, which are very important with APE grows: leaving trails, disturbing bushes, making noises, leaving footprints all can comparmise security and your work.

It all should've been done in planning stages of your APE grow, starting in the winter or off season. For every minute you spend in the planning stages of an APE grow, 1 hour is saved in the execution stage.

 

[mossyoakle]

I saw pics on here of a guy making a backpack out of a 3-4 cf bail with gorilla tape. Looked good

 

[Team Microbe]

I saw pics on here of a guy making a backpack out of a 3-4 cf bail with gorilla tape. Looked good

haha that was mine! that's a good bet if it's within a few mile's hike...

These bales weigh in at about 70lbs, so I'd highly recommend working out a few weeks prior to your hauls (dead lifts, squats, ect) to prevent from burning out after the first night of hauling. It took me about 8 hours to haul 4 bales five miles into my area... then I realized I needed to do something else to save my energy for digging and all that shit.


For the spots inaccessible by car, winter sled-hauling is key. Or even better yet... if you have any locations located off of train tracks you can make a rail cart like this one:

I hauled 6 bales last night in under 3 hours which would normally have taken 3 days of work. Working smarter rather than harder is the guerrilla's best bet when it comes to conserving energy and being efficient. Many clandestine locations are found along these tracks, and a quick trip to the tax office will tell you who the land belongs to. People do this daily, and it's not out of the ordinary so don't sketch out when visiting for the first time. Just say you're a bird watcher and would like to ask the owner for permission to shoot photos on their beautiful land (act like an eco nerd). The best spots are found behind industrial businesses, or simply land that wouldn't be used by the public because it's tucked in away somewhere that only an insane person would venture. These are where the golden locations are found usually... right under people's noses but in strategic locations.



But back to transporting... always be smart and operate under darkness here folks. Head lamps are a must, I like the kind that offer green light settings to blend in a bit more. Find a safe spot to drive in and drop off bales, and if necessary ask a trusted friend to be on a walkie talkie with you as your cover if your entrance/exit is near a populated road or any road for that matter visible by civilians.


Construct a drop-site nearby that you can return to during day light and continue the haul. Usually these spots are anywhere from 100'-1,000' from your unloading point. Don't stop at just a camo tarp, pretend people frequent the area incase someone does before you return and use nature to add additional camo:

Can you spot my bales? Good, this is how it should always be. Never get lazy after taking all the time out for hauling just to have your site compromised by a lazy cover-job.

A closer look finally reveals the drop site




Once dropped, returning during daylight to do the hard work is best. Never make drops during the daylight, I did once and my site was compromised and ripped later that season. Stupid mistakes make great learning experiences, and wiser guerrillas

Ahhh, victory alas. Home sweet home!

edit: since this photo was taken, I've put these bales into black contractor bags to hide the white during transfers. Just another tip I've picked up

 

[Team Microbe]

There is no easy way to get soil to a guerilla site, just pure muscle and sweat.

Now you've got to rush and possibly overlook or forget the details, which are very important with APE grows: leaving trails, disturbing bushes, making noises, leaving footprints all can comparmise security and your work.

It all should've been done in planning stages of your APE grow, starting in the winter or off season. For every minute you spend in the planning stages of an APE grow, 1 hour is saved in the execution stage.

Great points homie, there's a thread out there all about the dreaded trail... I'll stick it back in this post after I find it. I use plants to my advantage here, and so should everyone else.


EDIT: https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=87430

The dreaded path^

Guys - you can leave that trail during your haul, but the next day you better be going back to do some cover-up or youre askin for it. Take the time to dig up native bushes and transplant them with some water afterwards settling them in. I had a mean looking path but after a day of transplanting in the legs to my patches I'd say they're good as gone:

Path? What path?

Collecting forest duff and leaves (far from your location) in a trash bag then transporting it to sprinkle around new transplants is key for blending in bare soil. Make sure it matches your surroundings though, don't go sprinkling pine tree needles in a patch of stinging nettle... it'll just stand out. Think like nature acts...


Also, shucking osmocote (30-30-30) abroad in areas of travel is wise if you're not able to see the ground too well, as seeing a bunch of tiny fertilizer balls out in nature would be a dead-give away. I do this in areas of brush where I can get away with it, and when I return after a few rain storms that area is noticeably greener and thicker than areas of no-shucking.

 

[vapor]

Frame packs{make life much easier in the bush} will fit a bail on it and you just tie it down with locking wench straps{you do not want it wiggling around and throwing you off balance when there is a huge mountain to roll down}. Coco bricks are the best to take in on a frame pack imo{fill a uber thick construction waste bag and lock it down to the fram epack}. If you can find old fir trees and take there duff {rotting in the tree} cook it for a few weeks a month with ferts and it is some of the best soil right up there with coco.... Have seen folks get helicopters to do drop offs in the winter. Had a friend who got busted doing it in a ultra light{got him at harvesto} on islands around here. Around here it is usually straight up a mountain. If you go hard a lazy ripper will never do what a good grower will do to get to a spot.....Have seen folks dig giant pits in a peat bogs{double as extra water} and just use the peat in the swamp grow...loads of trick to pick up n the bush life///
ps build a res in the winter let it fill and put plants where there is no water in the summer and use dripper all it takes is a 9volt battery to turn valve

 

[drobdude]

thanks for all the feedback fellas. i was thinking around 1000 plus litres of soil....around 300 - 400 gallons i suppose. the bush is really sparse and easy to walk, but very isolated....until harvest time when every fucker gets out there and searches. searchers are a real problem in australia. theres a real culture around making money off of weed in some areas, to the point that no **** works ...just search for weed. this mainly happpens in state forests and national parks though.

sneaking onto private property sounds risky. i have been thinking along the same lines though, tricky spots could be the go....like drop offs off to the side of the highway. i might check out the train track idea aswell.

how do you find out who is the property owner from the tax office?

jeez geurilla growing is so challenging sometimes...i do love it when it works though!

my backs pretty fucked these days, so just trying to figure out a way to still be a part of the fun.

 

[Team Microbe]

You just go there and say you're looking for the owner's name of the property youre interested in. Say you've been kicked off of property before and don't want to piss anyone off this year, they'll show you who owns the land and where the boundaries are... they'll even print you out a copy if you ask nicely and are polite about the entire thing. It's their job, and they get 20 people a day coming in for all sorts of different reasons. They don't even need to know the reason you're looking it up, but I always have an alibi ready in case they ask.

It's all about thinking outside the box. The state forests are getting ripped because it's so obvious that there are grows out there... easy access + isolation (or so you'd think) = novice grows everywhere. You wanna be that guerrilla looking down on them from the A+ spot you just found next to the highway that virtually is inaccessible, or behind that industrial business where nobody will be wandering in hopes to find a crop. Think "where would I look if I were a ripper?" Then avoid those places like the plague.

 

[Ickis]

I think many people haul in soil when they don't have to. If you have greenery around like you are walking through in that picture Team Microbe that native soil has to be useable.

My state has excellent soil everywhere. Just stay away from the clay and pine tree areas.

In Australia can't you just load up a four wheeler and drive to the spot?

 

[Team Microbe]

I think many people haul in soil when they don't have to. If you have greenery around like you are walking through in that picture Team Microbe that native soil has to be useable.

My state has excellent soil everywhere. Just stay away from the clay and pine tree areas.

In Australia can't you just load up a four wheeler and drive to the spot?

Yeah it's definitely usable, but for amending purposes I bring in the bales. I know this goes against nature's law but until I find a good area where I can pull off a no-till, I'll be bringing in the bales. Perhaps an idea for next year...

 

[newtothiscoco]

such nice tips for the outdoor guys this year i am doing my own outdoor grow, and it was allot of work to get it all to the place secret but it was fun i felt like a child over again when i was sneaking out there in the middle of the night to not get seen ^^" but yeah great tips in this thread. thumbs up guys

 

[OvergrowDaWorld]

I drop it all off at night.
The next night, I get dropped off and I hike in every bag or bail of medium along with growbags, fencing, stakes, etc etc.
Get the spot/spots ready to t/p the cuttings or drop the seeds. The next day or weekend or whatever, take your cuttings in at night with a green headlamp hat on and t/p them or drop in your seeds. Then its just watering/maintenece from there on in.

 

[drobdude]

thanks for the tips fellas.

ive been using google earth...it shows state forest boundaries that back onto private property, and has a distance measure that can show how far from roads or houses a site is , you can also zoom to ground level to scope out aspect and hill gradients. you can even simulate the movement of the sun throuout the day at the spot.

out west further you could probs use the 4 wheeler but aussie bush can get quiet thick and nasty. we have a pest species called lantana which grows super thick in aussie bush. most state forests are also super mountainous and close to the coast ....its called the great dividing range , its a belt of big pain in th arse hills that go up and down the east coast of australia. so not real atv friendly.

those head lights are sweet hey.... 30 buks off ebay. night work is the go for sure!

 

[OvergrowDaWorld]

Good luck man. Grow them monster Thai X's and Mullumbimby X's!

 

[idiit]

we have a Canadian potting mix available in the states called fafard. it is dried to remove the moisture. the dried weight is 1/4 of the wet weight and makes a big difference.

I also bring my stuff in during the winter and install springtime.