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Mites?

weedmush

New member
Hi!

2 months ago I had mites in my cannabis plants. I hadnt tools to know exactly what type, but with lumagny micro I think It was correct. was possible see the eggs, looking like a transparent ball with a few white points

I applied insecticide and 2 weeks later Neoseiulus californicus(Spical plus from Koppert)

Now, a few mothers are perfect, but others have yet damaged leafs(curved, deformed and with slow growth...).
Today I took a few pics with one USB micro, and I saw a lot of neoseiulus running into the plants but too a few mites with long hairs.

Are they mites from Spical plus(food to the first stages of Californicus) or one dangerous mite for the plants?
-Spinach crown mites?
-Tyrophagus mites?
-or what?

Please help!!

Thanks for the support :tiphat:
 

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M

metsäkana

FUCKING HAIR BUTTED MOFOS I HATE THEM SO MUCH!!! burn them with fire
 
M

metsäkana

organic stuff dont work read that link =) i tried neem oil + spinosad + pyrethrins + b.t

i even sprayd them with 3% hydrogen peroxide mixed with 50 50 water and they still lived lol

if they came from that china garlic i just can imagine they are resistant to all the poison what i had xD

seemed like water to them.. they were back on same spot after i smoked 1 bong hit and looked back seems like even more came lol xD they are like that movie where you trow some water on those monsters and many more just grow xD its same with organic pesticides for my exprience

https://www.everwoodfarm.com/Pest_Insect_Cross_Listing/Bulb_Mites

READ THIS ITS THE BEST ADVICE AROUND I THINK


''
Management:
This is the difficult part. The usual management method on potted greenhouse crops is to apply an insecticide/miticide or combination of an insecticide/miticide and fungicide. We are in deep trouble with bulb mite control using pesticides. Bulb mites are resistant to pesticides in several chemical classes. Most products registered specifically for mite control are ineffective. Pyrethroid insecticides are not effective. Most of the effective pesticides are in pesticide classes now under scrutiny by the Environmental Protection Agency: the organophosphates and carbamates.

The best bulb mite control seems to be obtained with the organochlorine miticide dicofol (Kelthane) - generally by soaking bulbs in a suspension of the pesticide for 30 minutes before planting. Drenches of Kelthane after planting are not as effective, but do help. Kelthane is still registered on greenhouse ornamentals, but the treatments mentioned above are not on the current product label. Experiments at the University of Minnesota showed that Avid applied as a drench or bulb soak and Vendex drenches provided some bulb mite control. Neither of these products is registered for use as a drench or soak. DuraGuard, Avid, Hexygon and Kelthane were the best treatments in a drench experiment on Easter lilies at Ohio State University's OARDC. Everwood Farm does not carry these products, as they are only suitable for ornamentals, but we will make suggestions below on Organic BioControls that have shown efficacy. ''



i would not use those high potency poisons they will be on that smoked stuff
i see trichomes so you must be on flower
i would just accept the loss, clean the shit out, plant new plants and use hypoaspis miles + aculeifer + those beneficial nematodes what evergreenfarms has research could work
i used those and i dont see them anymore

you could still try those if you like.. dont use poison =) kill them with their natural enemy if you live in us try those bioworks products they dont ship on my country
i would try that fungi stuff that kills them if i could get it




those things fuck harvest down to like 1/10 or 1/20 of what you would get normally or maybe even more depending on size of infestation ! damn those shits breed 400-700 eggs per female lol
they sure took my sleep go buy some beer mate :D


''
. In laboratory studies, bulb mites have even survived on filter paper!'' LMAO i think tardigrade fucked some mite and these came


one more thing.. choose the beneficials or those bioworks products you cant use first bioworks and then introduce beneficials becouse it kill them too.. im not 100% sure but 90% =) you could ask the manufactor if it kill beneficials too i think so

they freaking love mushrooms too lol they even got to my mushroom box lmao in there they they breed like shitnuts :D



if you have ''clean house'' i dont know where did they come from? do you have pets? im not a mite expert just saying my toughts.. it still could be that ''grain mite'' too. i think its bulb but i think those predatory mites could eat those too ask the supplier?
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19719462


this picture is cool =) mites hitch hiking on white fly leg

http://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/english/crops/facts/14-013f15.jpg

 
Last edited:

weedmush

New member
Hi!

The problem is in my moms. No plants in flowering. For that is important save this plants, I have a few genetics +15years ago and accept the loss isnt a posibility :laughing:

For that, poison(chemical too) was a option. I will think what to do this weedkend.

thanks again!
 
M

metsäkana

dont you can just clone it then ? dip clones to some solution or clean them properly? i think if you can dip clones some of those products might work better

i know it will be hard that way too to be sure they are clean

i think the eggs are pretty much invisible with out loop
 

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