Minimum size pots for sexing
- Thread starter Empman
- Start date
Jaqen H'gar
Member
you can sex it in any pot size, but once it hits a certain size it will become root bound and growth will slow, its a PITA and its get crowded sometimes but i just tend to repot when needed and dump the males when they show.
luposolitario
Senior member
50 cl
Try scoping the pre-flowers on your plant with a 45x magnifier. Around 40 days after seed germination, a female plant will show "female pre-flower". Male "nanners' show up a few days later...as late as 60 days in my garden. Most pre-flowers form on the lower branches (more mature ones) first--and sometimes they show up at the very top (new growth). The secret is identifying the pistal with a pair of white hairs protruding (2nd pic).
These pics should help--
But what you will NOT find are hermies this way. Those lil bastards can pop up anytime.
These pics should help--
But what you will NOT find are hermies this way. Those lil bastards can pop up anytime.
I start all seeds in 32oz styrofoam cups and xplant when sexed. I use a 7x eyelupe to see the preflowers. Never have any seed take longer than 4 weeks to show sex and most start showing at 21 days from seed pop(or earlier). 4 weeks is max for me in 32oz cups. Can't remember the last seed that showed sex past 25 days from seed pop.
That's some pretty fast sexing 21 days from pop!I start in standard 4 inch pots and transplant and sex them in NSI 2 gallon nursery size,actually 1.6 gallons.After sexing I transplant to NSI 5 gallon and flower.I may veg them another week or so in 5 gallon before going to 12/12.Using a magnifying glass to catch early preflowers is great advice.
Douglas.Curtis
Autistic Diplomat in Training
Take a cutting, poke a hole in some styrofoam and float it in a pail/bucket/pot/pan/whatever of water. Poke your cutting through the foam. Give it 12/12 lighting and in 2 weeks you'll have sexed your plant.
Joey Bliss
New member
I know I’m late on this topic folks but I moved last year and didn’t have as much room to to pop packs and pull males whe they showed themselves. Now I’m more of budget with soil cost and and plant count. I was thinking of going fem seed and have before with great flower, but nothing grows like A F1 regular seeed or reg seeds in general. I love to make F1 crosses of 2 poly hybrids from 2 breeders that prob dislike each other. Some work other are trash. But I was told a trick from an old florist’s that always grew ganja in his green house here in New Jersey. N his tip was take the lower. 1st real set of branches off the plant when it’s got 5-7 nodes or if he plans on topping he’ll take the top or lower and stick I a cup of Sugar water or even he dip em in honey and let get some light but 12/12 the unroofed cuts every day keeping them alive and sometimes they root. But after about 6 days of 12/12 u will see pre flower and that how I do it no more wasting 20 gallons of soil just to find out it a male. I been growing since a child with my father n always there a male that sneaks by me till the flip luckily I inspect my girls daily so it never a problem just hate wasting my homemade KNf and JADAM on males that I don’t use for breeding.
Week 4
Active member
Interesting, take a cut straight into 12/12 and 6 days it will sex. That's what I'm getting here.
I have 4 regulars in one gallon pots that I left in the dark for 24 hours, then returned them back to veg lighting schedule. They're supposed to sex in 10 days after the darkening period, so we'll see. And as mentioned above, these regulars are much more vigorous in growth than any fems that I've grown out so far.
Old Uncle Ben
Well-known member
Where did you get this?
It's a hormonal change regarding phytochrome accumulation in the tissues. You can not return it to long days/short nights and expect a flowering response. Go 24 darkness, then 12/12. Another factor regarding a flowering response, you don't have much age or size to your plants.
Uncle Ben
Week 4
Active member
From the person who posted it and my response was to them, my understanding was he puts his cuts straight into 12/12... Is that right? If you don't know then let's wait to see what he says if you don't mind.
PoweredByLove
Most Loved
Those little 16 ounce solo cups or a small 4 inch pot. That way you don't waste time potting up plants just to chop em down a couple weeks later. As long as you got proper drainage and you keep up the watering you'll be fine. Everything in here gets the same water with the same food soon as they're old enough. Big pot. Little pot. Same blue water
acespicoli
Well-known member
Someone should have searched ic for the solo cup challenge, 16oz-20oz? 
4" pot ... be advised small pots is a hermi stable test method,
random...
#4 2oz shot cups
4" pot ... be advised small pots is a hermi stable test method,
random...
#4 2oz shot cups
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Old Uncle Ben
Well-known member
Such little pots are worthless regarding production and general plant health.
With hempy the plants get big enough in 16oz cups to take a top cut, then I transplant into 1 gallon and flip it, by the time it shows if it is male it hasn't filled the bucket out too much and I can reclaim the majority of the coco, if it's female then it's ready to rock as a small plant and I keep the cut rooting
acespicoli
Well-known member
only difference between a clone and a seedling is the seedling makes a better clone 
3 clones to a gal
how deep does light penetrate the canopy indoors ? Mini has its place...
Tools to a goal
3 clones to a gal
how deep does light penetrate the canopy indoors ? Mini has its place...Tools to a goal
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